ger to Kenmare for a car to meet me at Sneem. The same reasons obliged me also to decline Mr. Butler's polite invitation to dine with him that day-though with much regret—as, from the kindness and intelligence I had previously remarked in him, it would have afforded me sincere pleasure to become better acquainted with him, and to obtain that further information about this secluded district which he was so competent to give.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Waterville to Derrinane-Wild Scenery of the Coast-Derrinane House-Character of Mr. O'Connell - Review of his Political Conduct - Effect upon Ireland-Repeal of the Union - Present State and future Prospects of the Country.

Ar Waterville, all passage for carriages terminates, the road thence passing for the next eight or ten miles over a succession of the steepest and most rugged mountains that the imagination can picture. It is in the centre of this rocky solitude that Dan O'Connell's house of Derrinane is situated; and, as he was now residing there, the expectation of seeing the self-styled "Liberator" in his own halls was an additional inducement to pass by a spot which its occupant has invested with such notoriety. I easily hired a couple of ponies for myself and

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baggage, at a moderate price, and, the day being brilliantly clear, saw this very striking coast scenery under the most favourable circum

stances.

About two miles beyond Waterville commences a long and steep ascent, which at length becomes so very precipitous and rough, that even the mountain ponies have some difficulty in surmounting it. The line taken by the primitive road-makers was extremely injudicious; it evidently ought to pass much nearer the sea. Indeed, a new road in that direction was talked of, but, as it would be very expensive, and lead only to Derrinane, it has, I believe, been given up.

Upon at length reaching the summit of this tedious ascent, a magnificent prospect opened before me. I had been previously much pleased with the views I had enjoyed of the fine open Bay of Ballinskellings, in which Waterville is placed; but now an infinitely more extensive and more varied panorama

WILD SCENERY OF THE COAST.

115

burst upon my sight. We had attained a very considerable elevation, from which we commanded a long line of the rugged coast of Kerry, indented with numberless creeks, and guarded by a fearful array of rocks, against which the sea beat and foamed, even in this calm weather. Below me lay the narrow inlet, on whose sandy beach Derrinane is built; but the house itself was not visible. Beyond were the entrances to Kenmare and Bantry Bays; behind which the rich but tame plains of Cork closed the horizon, and contrasted strongly with the stern features of the immediate scenery around me. To my left towered bare, broken mountains, "in desolation's sullen majesty;" while, to the westward, as far as the eye could reach, stretched the vast, billowy Atlantic.

The interest of the scene was somewhat heightened by a numerous cavalcade on their way to Derrinane, consisting of male and female equestrians, mounted, in primitive fashion, on saddle and pillion. They were relatives of

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DANIEL O'CONNELL.

O'Connell; and, having quarrelled about some family property, had agreed to refer the matter to the Counsellor himself. I understood that he renders himself very useful in this way while sojourning in Iveragh. His knowledge of law and natural acuteness qualify him admirably for a judge, where his own interests or prejudices are not involved; and such is the prestige attached to his name, that here at least his decisions are considered oracular.

From the concordant testimony of all whom I heard speak upon the subject, O'Connell is not only much looked up to, but also much beloved, in his own immediate neighbourhood; but, in the rest of the country, and among the educated classes, he is regarded in the same light that he is by at least four-fifths of his own countrymen in the upper and middle ranks, and by nearly all well-informed Englishmen and Scotchmen who are unbiassed by party. I think, from the opportunities of observation I have had, that the upper ranks of Catholics,