CHAPTER IX.

Road from Killarney to Cork - Description of Cork - Its Environs-Cove of Cork-First-rate Man-of-War-Fermoy -Lismore Beauty of Situation and Neighbourhood — The Castle Cathedral - Strankally.

THERE are two rival coaches, from the two rival inns at Killarney, to Cork. Finn's takes by far the finest route to Macromp, while Hegarty's passes through the most beautiful country from Macromp to Cork. I discovered, when too late, that I could and ought to have gone by the former for the first half of my journey, and have taken the other for the latter half.

There was very little to interest before reaching Macromp; the country wearing, in general, a wild barren aspect. Macroom, as

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THE RIVER LEE.

it is pronounced, is a tolerably sized town, with considerable symptoms of business and affluence, but without any features sufficiently marked for description.

From this point the landscape assumes quite a new character. No more barren rock incapable of cultivation, but gently rounded hills, covered with artificial grasses, and seemingly very well farmed. Through scenery of this pleasing description we came upon the River Lee, whose course we, more or less, followed for the remainder of our journey. The banks of the Lee are often very picturesque, and, if I was in any degree disappointed with their charms, I can only attribute it to having heard them somewhat overpraised.

Near Ballincollig, we crossed this stream by a curious old bridge, close below which are, I believe, the most extensive manufactories of gunpowder in the world, although now, happily, in a state of inactivity. Long may they continue so! The buildings are scattered about

SCENERY OF THE RIVER.

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in detached groups, and altogether occupy an immense area, surrounded by a lofty wall.

From this to Cork, a distance of five or six miles, the scenery of the River is very beautiful, and the gradual development of the city extremely striking. The opposite, or left bank, in particular, is high and steep, and is adorned with a succession of handsome residences, surrounded by fine hanging woods, which continue almost uninterruptedly to the populous suburb called Sunday's Well, so celebrated for the purity of its air. We rapidly drove through the outskirts of the City, passing by the Mall, a triste looking promenade; the Bishop's modest Palace; and the neat and appropriate new Gaol, the interior of which is quoted as a model of prison discipline. This is an approach worthy of a great city, and yet is by no means the finest of which Cork has to boast.

I stopped, where the coach stopped, at Lloyd's Hotel, which I can recommend, as

being both comfortable and reasonable, although I understood the Imperial to be unquestionably the head inn. I immediately proceeded to take a general view of this, the second city and the first port in Ireland, and was very much pleased to perceive a considerable number of ships in the river, and a very business-like bustle on the quays. The shops appeared numerous and handsome, many of the streets wide and well built, and crowded with passengers in pursuit of business or pleasure.

It was, however, on the following day that I made a completer survey of the town and its environs. For this purpose, I crossed St. Patrick's Bridge, and mounted a very steep ascent to the spacious barracks, which are capable of containing four regiments, and are built on a lofty eminence that commands the whole city. I thence kept along the high ridge, which forms the eastern bank of the river for more than two miles; and was extremely gratified by the views it afforded. The whole

of this line of hill is embellished with villas of various appearance and pretensions; but all more or less pretty. The walls which surrounded their petty demesnes were my only subject of complaint, inasmuch as they so often shut out the prospects I sought. I descended behind Mr. O'Callaghan's elegant residence, and returned to the city by the great Glanmire road.

I next perambulated every part of the town, and examined the quays, the port, the public buildings. The quays are very handsomely built, and each year sees them extended and improved. The present public buildings are respectable and appropriate, but those in progress will much exceed them. There is a Court-house now building, which will be a great ornament to the town; and the Catholics are erecting a chapel in the Gothic style, that promises to be exceedingly beautiful. The St. George Steam Packet Company have lately built a very neat office on the lower quay, from