22

REMARKABLE ECHOES.

conceivably grand. The patteraro is fired-and

instantly a crash ensues from all sides, that

1

seems to split the ears; then follows a longcontinued roll, exactly like thunder, rumbling and roaring through all the neighbouring mountain ranges. This gradually dies away in the distance; when, after all seems over, a remote but very distinct echo comes across the still air, apparently from Mangerton.

The most favourable position for music is perhaps the usual one, opposite the Eagle's Nest. The echo, being near, returns almost immediately, and keeps up a sort of running second with the bugle. Or, if a single note or two, instead of a continuous piece of music, be played, the sounds return upon the ear, from the several hills and dells, with a diminished power, but an increased sweetness, that requires no violent poetic enthusiasm to imagine must have an unearthly source. While listening to these etherial sounds, it is impossible not to recal to mind Moore's exquisite stanzas

REMARKABLE ECHOES.

23

on this subject, which are as happily descriptive of the character of this music, as they are eminently harmonious in their numbers:

"He listened, while high o'er the eagle's rude nest

The lingering sounds on their way loved to rest;

And the echoes sang back, from the full mountain choir, As if loath to let song so enchanting expire.

It seemed as if every sweet note that died here

Was again brought to life in some airier sphere;

Some heaven in those hills, where the soul of the strain,

That had ceased upon earth, was awaking again!"

CHAPTER II.

Rapid Tourists - Angling in the Lakes-Decrease in the size of Salmon-Remarks on their Natural History — Public and Private Boats - Gap of Dunloe- Killarney Recipe for cooking Salmon - Ascent of Mangerton - Eagles Lough Kittane.

THE other usual excursions in the neighbourhood of Killarney are, the Gap of Dunloe, the Ascent of Mangerton, and, for those who have sufficient time and resolution, the more difficult but infinitely finer ascent of Carrân Tual, the loftiest point, not only of the Reeks, but, I believe, of all Ireland. There are also numberless minor objects of interest and beauty, which will agreeably occupy many a vacant morning; besides which, the Lakes

RAPID TOURISTS.

25

themselves, to be properly appreciated, ought to be frequently seen, and closely explored. Yet a very few days are all that the generality of visiters devote to the inspection or enjoyment of scenery they have come so far to view. The object of most, in truth, seems to be, to "kill a lion" in the shortest possible time; and they go through the appointed routine with admirable perseverance, be the weather favourable or not. One day they ascend Mangerton; another they devote to the Lower Lake, Mucruss Abbey, &c.; and the last they scamper to the Gap of Dunloe, returning by the Upper Lake.

In this way they may certainly be said to have seen the principal scenery of Killarney, which appears their great end and aim in coming there. But, independently of the very fleeting impression that must be produced by so rapid a survey, such tourists lose all the beautiful effects that result from the ever-changing play of tints and lights, so

VOL II.

26

LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

especially various and lovely in this fickle cli

mate.

As I really wished to see the Lakes of Killarney, and not merely to be able to say I had done so, I remained there above three weeks, and would have lingered longer, had the waning season permitted. The weather was remarkably fine for the greater part of the time : and, as I was most days on the Lake, unless when making some other excursion, I consider that I saw the scenery advantageously and completely.

I was occasionally on the water at early morn; but much oftener after sunset; and not seldom beneath the moon's mild radiance. On these occasions I was never without my fishing-rod; and though I have in many other places had better sport, I have rarely enjoyed the amusement of angling so much as on the Lakes of Killarney.

The exquisite loveliness of the panorama around me greatly enhanced the triumph of