the white column of water relieved | ment. . . . . In such a situation you against the inky rocks, and the im- have at every moment a feeling of pending character of the precipices the presence of the sky. Large fleecy around, form an imposing scene, clouds drove over our heads above which has been worthily portrayed the rush of the water, and the sky by the pencil of Turner. appeared of a blue more than usually brilliant. What a scene, too, During very hard winters this fall forms a vast stalagmite of ice, pyramidal in form, reaching up the face of the rock to a height of 80 or 90 ft., and nearly as broad at its base. In the centre of this icy pyramid the water may be seen flowing as through a glass tube. It was in winter (Dec. 1799) that Wordsworth visited Hardraw, and thus describes it in a letter to Coleridge: "We walked up to the fall; and what would I not give if I could convey to you the feelings and images which were then communicated to me! After cautiously sounding our way over stones of all colours and sizes, encased in the clearest water formed by the spray of the fall, we found the rock, which before had appeared like a wall, extending itself over our heads, like the ceiling of a huge cave, from the summit of which the waters shot directly over our heads into a basin, and among fragments wrinkled over with masses of ice as white as snow, or rather, as Dorothy says, like congealed froth. The water fell at least ten yards from us, and we stood directly behind it, the excavation not so deep in the rock as to impress any feeling of darkness, but lofty and magnificent. The spot where we stood was as dry as the chamber in which I am now sitting, and the incumbent rock, of which the groundwork was limestone, veined and dappled with colours, which melted into each other with every possible variety. On the summit of the cave were three festoons, or rather wrinkles, in the rock each hung with icicles of various length and the stream shot from the rows of icicles in irregular fits of strength, and with a body of water that varied every mo in summer! In the luxury of our imagination we could not help feeding upon the pleasure which this cave, in the heat of a July noon, would spread through a frame exquisitely sensible. That huge rock on the right, the bank winding round on the left with all its living foliage, and the breeze stealing up the valley, and bedewing the cavern with the freshest imaginable spray. And then the murmur of the water, the quiet, the seclusion, and a long summer day."-Life, vol. i. p. 153. The cranesbill geranium (Geranium sylvaticum) grows in such plenty over the fallen masses of limestone at the bottom of the glen as to give distinct colour to the foreground. Geranium pratense and lucidum are also found in the neighbourhood. Seven dales-Mossdale, Yoredale proper, Cotterdale, and Fossdale (N.), and Widdale, Galedale, and Seamerdale (S.), open out within 3 m. of Hawes, radiating from it N., S., and W. All these dales contain scattered farms and cottages, generally nestling under three or four old ash-trees or sycamoresthe originals of Wordsworth's picture "And he had trudged through Yorkshire dales, Among the rocks and winding scars, Where deep and low the hamlets lie, Beneath their little patch of sky, And little lot of stars."-Peter Bell, pt. i. All are pastoral; and the green meadows running up their hollows contrast very pleasantly with the rough mountains that guard them. Black-faced sheep are plenty, and in winter are smeared with tar and grease to protect the wool. The animals are so much reduced during that season, that the wool would become diseased without some such help. Much wool is spun and knitted in the dales, and clogs (wooden shoes, generally of alder) are made in great plenty during the winter. Piles of them may be seen in front of many of the houses. There are waterfalls on almost all the becks that descend through these dales. On the Cotter, not far from its junction with the Ure, there is one worth a visit, and higher up in this dale, "in one of the ravines, is a waterfall with a curious little cavern in the limestone, about which Epilobium angustifolium and Hypnum pulchellum grow."-J. G. Baker. (For the upper part of the Ure, see post.) [The "Buttertubs Pass," as the road is called running over the ridge from Hawes to Muker in Swaledale, is singularly wild, and commands most extensive mountain views. (The distance is 7 m. from Hawes to Thwaite, and 2 m. thence to Muker.) The climb to the summit of the pass is rough, and calls for good sinews. The road passes between Great Shunnor Fell (2351 ft.) and Lovely Seat (2216 ft.)--the latter of which "is, perhaps, the most conveniently situated of all the hills of the district for giving a panoramic view of the upper part of the Swaledale and Yoredale hollows."-J. G. B. "The evening view toward the S., on gaining the summit of the pass, is of the utmost grandeur, Ingleborough, Whernside, and other fine outlines coming boldly out beyond the broad undulations about the head of Yoredale."-Phillips. The walk (for the sake of this view) should rather be taken from Muker to Hawes than in the contrary direction. The "Buttertubs," which give name to the pass, are six or seven deep holes in the limestone a little below the Swaledale side of the summit. "One or two have pillars like basaltic columns; some are very deep; several have ferns growing down the sides, and juniper-bushes about the top; all are curious."-W. S. Banks. The hills on either side do not offer much interest, and the ascent of Lovely Seat will not give much more than is gained from the pass itself. There is a clean but rough inn at Thwaites, and a better (very tolerable) at Muker. (See Rte. 24.) A long mountain road (15 m.) runs from Hawes through Widdale to Ingleton. Widdale is, however, hardly worth exploration on its own account, though the road may be convenient for some tourists, and its lower part (see Rte. 31), between Gearstones Inn and Ingleton, is very interesting. Widdale Fell, W. of the dale, rises in a long ridge of bare and grassy moorland, the crest of which is 2205 ft. above the sea. The views from it are extensive. (The pedestrian may follow the route taken by Mr. White, the lively author of A Month in Yorkshire, passing from Bainbridge or Hawes to Ingleton, thence by Clapham and the Caves to Settle, thence to Skipton, and up Wharfedale by Kettlewell back to Hawes. This route, which may be protracted for as many days as he pleases, will take him through the most interesting mountain scenery of W. Yorkshire.)] Proceeding from Hawes to Sedbergh, the road is at first uninteresting. (At 4 m. a road turns N. to Kirkby Stephen. This, crossing the ridge, descends into the valley of the Eden, and from it a bold pedestrian may explore the almost savage solitudes about the sources of the Eden and the Ure. The hills here are dark and rugged, displaying, in Camden's words," such a dreary waste and horrid silent wilderness, that certain little rivulets that creep here are called 'Hell-becks-rivers of hell. In this part the goats, deer, and stags of extraordinary size, with branching horns, find a secure retreat." By the "Hell-becks" the stream of the Eden near its source is meant. (Al or Hel (Celtic) indicates high or prominent ground; but the "hel" here is probably the northern root, signifying something covered or closed in, as in "heling' roofing.) This river plunges suddenly into what is called Hell Gill. "From the very edge of the water on both sides limestone precipices to a height of 50 ft. rise so sheerly and abruptly, that in one place, with the maddened mountain torrent foaming and boiling below, it is easy to leap across from one crag to the other. The length of the ravine is under 4 m. The cliffs are overgrown by mosses and bushes, but the recesses of the glen it is almost impossible to explore without a rope, for its sides are much too steep to be climbed."-J. G. Baker.) Crossing the ridge, 6 m. from Hawes (where is the boundary between the N. and W. Ridings), the road descends into Garsdale, through which the streams run W. towards the Lune. The scenery hence to Sedbergh is pleasing, without being grand or especially striking. Rt. rises Baugh Fell (2216 ft.), and 1. the much less lofty hills of Rysell and Craggs. The road crosses and recrosses the Garsdale beck, that gives life and animation to the valley, the sides of which are scarred with hollows, lined with wood in places, and gleaming with streamlets. There is little heather, and the hills are green to the summits. The cottages and farms are whitewashed, so as to be seen at some distance. (Throughout the dales the steps and passages of the houses have a border of whitewash. The whole stone floor of the "house-place is sometimes patterned over in this way with a diamond trellis-work.) Half-way through the dale is a modern chapel, of E. Eng. character, pleasant to come upon. A very fine group of hills (one of which is the "Crook of Lune"), wild and marked with deep gills, rises in front shortly before the road crosses the stream of the Rothay, and enters Sedbergh (Inn: King's ́Arms), a town on the extreme border of Yorkshire, in the valley of the Rothay, which here flows onward to join the Lune. The ch. (ded. to St. Andrew), Norm., with Perp. additions, is worth a visit. The altar-steps and the font are of black Dentdale marble. The bust of a mathematician, named Dawson, a native of Sedbergh, is in the chancel. In the ch.-yard are two yews under which George Fox the Quaker preached, drawing all the people out of the church to hear him. The neighbourhood of Sedbergh is wild and pleasant, the steep hills rising close round the town. The grammar-school is richly endowed. Hartley Coleridge was (1837-38) one of the tutors here, and was especially fond of the Sedbergh hills and rivers the latter, he used to say, were precisely Homer's otvores Toтáμol— being, when flooded, the colour of old port. Above the town is a mound of natural drift, which has been scarped, and may, perhaps, have been used as a Roman watchtower. Cautley Spout, a long, narrow waterfall on the side of Howgill Fells, is worth a visit when full of water. The mass of Howgill Fells (the highest point is the Calf, 2188 ft.) consists of the Silurian slaty rocks usual in Westmoreland (in which county it is for the most part); and the scenery differs greatly from that of the limestone. Intersecting slopes in angular masses of grey rock, breaking through steep green surfaces, give to this district a very different aspect from the broad swells, rough craggy edges, and brown or purple heath, which mark the 66 greater part of the Yorkshire fells." | mission) the pictures at the Hall -Phillips. The mountain view from itself; and Catterick Church. "the Calf," extending far over the Westmoreland hills, is very fine. (The Ingleton branch of the Liverpool and Carlisle Rly. has a stat. at Sedbergh, 14 m. from the town. By it the tourist may proceed into Cumberland.) Catterick Bridge crosses the Swale a short distance S. of the rly. stat.; it has been much altered and widened since it was completed in 1425. According to the contract for building it, still preserved at Brough Hall, the bridge cost 173l. 6s. 8d., and, "with the grace of God," was to be made "accordand in substance to Barnacastell-brigge." It crosses the (Dentdale, a long winding dale, famous for its beds of black marble, runs from Sedbergh nearly to Ingle-Swale in the line of the Roman road ton. (The name of the Dee, which (now called Leeming Lane), which flows down it, seems to be partly ran from Isurium (Aldborough, Rte. retained in that of the dale.) The 18) to this place; a little N. of which, upper part is wild and romantic, at a place called Violet Grange, roads but it is not one of the most in- parted N. to Vinovia (Binchester), teresting dales. At Dent, a small and N.W. to Lavatra (Bowes). Untown once famous for its knitters til very recently, this road was one (witness the story of the "terrible of the chief lines of communication knitters of Dent," told in Southey's Doctor'), was born Adam wick, the great geologist.) ROUTE 24. YORK TO RICHMOND. with the North; and the inn at the Sedge-bridge (still not uncomfortable) was famous in the days of posting. There was an inn here in the time of Hen. VIII., and a chapel near it, ded. to St. Anne, of which some traces remain. (Leland says, "Keterick Bridge selfe hath but one house as an ign.") (From York to Dalton Junction on the N. E. Railway, this route is the same as Rte. 15. From Dalton Junc. a branch line of 10 m. runs to Richmond. 5 trains daily from Dalton to Richmond, 4 return: on Saturdays 2 additional trains run each way. This branch line is in direct communication with Darlington.) Looking up the river from the bridge, a high bank on the S. side marks the site of the Roman Cataractonium (the name is retained in the modern Catterick, but its etymology is quite uncertain; Caerdar-ich, "the camp on the water," has been suggested, but such a name would be just as applicable to hundreds of other camps. Ptolemy calls it Kатарактоv). The position was of importance, and Cataractonium was a walled camp, with sides of 240 and 175 yards enclosing about 9 acres. A portion of the wall has been cleared, and partly rebuilt (for the sake of preservation). A few inscriptions have been found here63 m. from Dalton, Catterick one in 1620, recording the restoration Bridge Stat. The places of interest of an altar to the deity of roads and here are the site of the Roman Sta- paths, "Deo qui vias et semitas tion, the Chapel of Brough Hall, commentus est"-an important perand (only to be seen by special per-sonage in this wild corner of the Passing the stations at Moulton and Scorton, we reach Brigantian territory. Other relics | Bernicia), the date of which is placed are preserved at Brough. The field, by Mr. Williams, the last translator in which the camp now exists, is of the 'Gododin,' about the year 567, known as "Thornborough," a name whilst Ella was King of Northumof frequent occurrence in connection bria. 363 British chieftains, ". wearwith British and Roman relics. (It ing the golden torques," fell in the is perhaps the Teutonic Thurn- battle, according to Aneurin. The tower.) According to Bede, Pau- site of Cattraeth is, however, quite linus used to baptize in the Swale uncertain; and Mr. Williams is inhere. "In provincia Deirorum, ubi clined to find it at the Catrail-the sæpius manere cum rege solebat, fosse extending from near Melrose baptizabat in fluvio Suala, qui vi- to the Cheviots. No tradition of such cum Cataractum præterfluit."-H. E., a fight exists at Catterick; and there L. ii. c. 14. This passage probably are no cairns or tumuli in the neighgave rise to the story that Paulinus bourhood which can well be referred baptized 10,000 in one day in the to this battle. (See for the 'Gododin' Swale, a story which has been the translation by the Rev. John transferred to him from St. Augus- Williams ap Ithel, Llandovery, tine of Kent. But although Pope 1852.) It is uncertain whether Gregory, writing to the Patriarch of "Gododin" or " Ododin" is a general Alexandria, says that Augustine name for the two kingdoms of Deira baptized 10,000 Saxons on Christ- and Bernicia, or whether it repremas-day, he does not mention the sents some smaller but adjoining, scene of the baptism. Gocelin (Acta district. Sanct.) and Gervase (Act. Pontif.) A gate, just beyond the bridge, place it at the Swale; meaning, leads to Brough Hall (Sir John certainly not the Yorkshire river, Lawson, Bart.). The Roman Catholic but the passage so called between Chapel is seen rt. of the entrancethe Isle of Sheppy and the main-road, and is shown to visitors. land. The etymology is not clear: for the Teutonic Swala, gentle, although it may suit the Kentish "smooth water," is hardly appropriate to the northern_river-fierce enough occasionally. Prof. Phillips suggests Svalga (Norse), to "flow tumultuously." Perhaps Whitaker's "swællan," A. S. (torrere), is as probable as any. It would be applicable to the sudden and violent risings of the river, just as a candle is said to "sweal" when the melted wax or tallow overflows. Catterick has been fixed on by some antiquaries (among whom is Mr. Stephens, author of the Literature of the Cymry') as the scene of the great battle of Cattraeth, celebrated in the 'Gododin' of Aneurin. The 'Gododin' certainly describes a combat between the Britons of Cumbria and Strathclyde and the Saxons of Deivyr and Bryneich (Deira and (Ask at the school below.) It was built by the late Sir William Lawson, and is a close and very successful copy of Abp. Roger's Chapel (now the Chapter Library) at York (see Rte. 1). The effect on entering is very striking. An Ecce Homo, said to be by Correggio, deserves notice. The stained glass of the windows is by Willement and Wailes. The House of Brough is partly Elizabethan, but has been modernized and added to. The ceiling of the entrance-hall is a very good example of Elizabethan work, having the beams decorated in arabesque, with shields. Here is a very beautiful Virgin and Child in marble (of small size), said to be by Rubens, who sometimes modelled. A portrait of Arabella Fermor, heroine of Pope's Rape of the Lock,' should also be remarked. Under the staircase is a large caldron of mixed |