having below it, rt., the pretty Meanwood valley, through which a stream descends to join the Aire. At Headingley (2 m.) is the skeleton of a most venerable oak known for ages as the Skyrack, or Shire-oak, and giving its name to the Wapentake. It is quite dead, but the trunk is still supported by ivy. Near it are two inns-the Oak Tree' and the 'Skyrack.' Like other famous oaks this tree probably served as a boundary-mark from a very early period, and, as Thoresby conjectured, may have been the place of assembly for the Wapentake. The ch. of Headingley is modern and indifferent. very elaborate Norm. sculpture. Over the porch is a gabled pediment, in which appear the Saviour, with the emblems of the four Evangelists, and the Lamb with a cross. The chancel arch recedes in three orders, the outermost of which has the bird'shead moulding. On the capitals of the shafts are-the Baptism of our Lord (an angel, as in the earliest Byzantine representations, holds his robe)-the Crucifixion-a knight with spear and shield-and a sagittary. This last emblem (the device of King Stephen) probably marks the date of the ch., which may be compared with that of Iffley near Oxford, nearly of the same time and character. The glass in the E. window dates from 1601. The three bad pictures in the chancel, representing the Agony of our Lord, His Crucifixion, and Ascension, are by Vanderbank, and were given to the ch. by Wm. Jackson, rector, who died in 1766. 2 m. beyond, on high ground, in an open country with little wood, is the Norm. ch. of Adel, well-known to archeologists. Adel (possibly Ada's Hill, from the name of the first Saxon colonist) is on the line of a Roman cross-road which ran from Castleford to Ribchester. There was a station on the hill slope N. of the In a hollow near the ch. is a mill, village, where many Roman remains a modern building on a mill site (among them an altar inscribed to of extreme antiquity; and close the goddess Brigantia) have been above it is the site of the Roman discovered; and it has been sug- station, marked by one line of the gested that the existing church may original vallum. On the S. it was have been built on the foundations defended by a stream and a deep of a Roman building. The ch. (dedi- bog. The Roman road ran above it. cated to St. John the Baptist) was Sepulchral remains, altars, &c., have given by Ralph Paganel to the Bene-been found at and near this station dictine priory of Holy Trinity at York; and remained in the posses-preserved, although in the Domesday sion of that house until the Dissolution. It is a small Norm. building, consisting only of nave and chancel. The windows on the N. side are all (except one) round-headed, of one light; only one original window remains on the S. At the W. end are three Norm. windows. (The belfry above is modern.) The E. window is Perp. All the windows are above a stringcourse, high in the wall; and the corbel-table below the roof should be especially noticed. The most striking features of the ch., however, are the S. porch and the chancel arch-both enriched with the name of which has not been survey a place in the parish of Adel receives the name of Burhedurum— possibly representing that of the Roman town. Of the altars, some are to be seen in the Leeds museum. Mr. Wright has remarked that the inscription "Deæ Brigantia" does not necessarily refer to a goddess of the Brigantes. The same name has been found at Birrens in Scotland, at Chester, and elsewhere; and as these altars were usually dedicated by settlers, the "Dea Brig." may have been the protecting deity of some distant Brigantium-the birthplace of the dedicating colonist. In the valley above the mill is a Reformatory School, estab. 1857. (The pedestrian may walk across the country from Adel to Harewood. (See the following rte.) The distance is about 5 m.) (b.) 5 m. S.E. of Leeds, on high ground, in a country which must have been very pleasant before the days of smoke and tall chimneys, is Temple Newsam (H. C. Meynell Ingram, Esq.). The house is famous for its collection of pictures, which are shown on Thursdays in the absence of the family. At Newsam (Newhusam in Domesday) a preceptory of Knights Templars was founded in 1181; which on the suppression of the order passed to the Hospitallers, who ceded the manor to Edward II. in 1324. It was afterwards granted to Sir John D'Arcy. After the death of Thomas Lord D'Arcy, who was beheaded for his share in the Pilgrimage of Grace (1569), Temple Newsam passed to the Earl of Lennox and his wife Margaret, grand-daughter of Henry VII.; and it was here that their son, the unlucky Darnley, husband of Mary of Scotland, was born. James I. gave the estate to his kinsman the Duke of Lennox, who sold it to Sir Arthur Ingram. From Lord Irvine, who represented the Ingram family, it came in 1807 to the Marquis of Hertford, who took the surname of Ingram before that of Seymour; and from him to the present proprietor. Temple Newsam is perhaps the Templestowe of Ivanhoe,' but no evidence that Sir W. Scott ever visited this place, and the description in the novel might apply to any other preceptory in the North. 66 there دو The existing house was built temp. Charles I., by Sir Arthur Ingram, who pulled down the older mansion, retaining however a portion of the building which contained what, according to Thoresby, was called the 66 Royal Chamber,” in which Darnley was born. This room however can no longer be indentified. The new house was injured by fire in 1635; but seems to have been at once restored. It is of brick, with stone coigns, very picturesque, in plan resembling a half H; and in compliance with a quaint fashion of the time, the open battlement running round the roof is composed of capital letters cut in stone, forming the words "All Glory and Praise be given to God, the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost, on High; Peace upon Earth, Good Will toward men; Honour and true Allegiance to our Gracious King, Loving Affections among his subjects, Health and Plenty within this house." The interior is fine, and contains two very striking apartments: the Library, 24 ft. square; and the Picture Gallery 108 ft. by 28 ft. Unfortunately this room is badly lighted, and it is almost impossible to get a good view of the pictures it contains. The most important are- Guido. - John the Baptist, very good; St. Margaret, "well designed and carefully executed."-Waagen. Rubens. The Virgin and Child, the Baptist, and Joseph, in a landscape. Nicholas Poussin. The Virgin, with the Baptist and St. Elizabeth. Annibale Caracci.-The Dead Christ with Disciples. William Vandevelde. -Two sea-pieces; one of Van Tromp's naval victories. Poelemburg.-A Charity, with children and angels; "belongs in every respect to his finest works.". Waagen. Miereveldt. Maurice, Prince of Orange. Sir J. Reynolds.Marchioness of Hertford; full-length, with landscape background; Lord and Lady Irwine; and a Shepherd Boy; "of singular charm." Jan Asselyn." A large and very beautiful picture, inscribed and dated 1646." Rembrandt.-Portrait of himself. Albert Durer.-A Crucifixion; Dr. Waagen assigns this picture to a “good master of the Dutch school of the latter half of the 15th cent," W. Jan Fyt.-A Wild-Boar Hunt. Gas-last Lord and Lady Irwine. On the par Poussin.-A landscape. *Titian. wall of the chancel is a tablet for -Portrait of Martin Bucer, the re- John Smeaton and his wife. It is former; "unquestionably the finest surmounted by a model of the Eddypicture in the collection." Waagen. stone. Claude. - Landscape with ruins; and sea-piece. The park of Temple Newsam is large, well-wooded, and full of deer; but the smoke of Leeds extends even here, and the trees are much blackened on the side toward the town. One avenue is very picturesque. (The ruins of Thorpe Hall, 2 m. S. of Temple Newsam, the mediæval residence of the Skargills, will repay the visit of an architectural antiquary. It was partly demolished by Sir Arthur Ingram in the time of Chas. I., after he purchased it from Major Clough.) A drive of not quite a mile will bring the visitor from Temple Newsam to the village of Whitkirk; very near which is Austhorpe Lodge, the birthplace of John Smeaton the engineer, and the constructor of the Eddystone lighthouse. He was born here June 8, 1724; his father was an attorney. Austhorpe remained his home during the whole of his active life; and the square tower which he built for his study still exists. He died here, October 28, 1792, and was buried in Whitkirk church. (For an excellent sketch of his life, see 'Smile's Lives of the Engineers,' vol. ii.) He is said to have designed iron gates for the park of Temple Newsam; and water is still raised in the grounds there by an ingenious hydraulic ram which he constructed. Whitkirk Church deserves a visit. It is Perp., 'with a tower, of which the parapet overhangs, as if machicolated. In it is an altar-tomb, with effigies, temp. Hen. VII., for Robert Scargill and his wife, founders of a chantrey here; a monument with effigies, for Ed. Viscount Irwine; and another (by Nollekens) for the ROUTE 28. LEEDS TO HARROGATE (KIRKSTALL, HAREWOOD). (N. Eastern Rly., 10 trains daily.) Leaving Leeds from the Wellington Stat., and stopping at the Holbeck Junct., the line curves northward, crossing the Wharfe by a viaduct. In the valley 1. is the village of Burley, with a good modern ch. (St. Matthias). At the end of the S. transept is a tower and spire 166 ft. high. 10 min. after leaving Leeds the train reaches 3 m. Headingley. (For the village and its ancient oak-tree, see Rte. 27.) Below the stat., 1., is the manufacturing village of Kirkstall, and in the valley close above it the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey. The remains of Kirkstall are more perfect than those of any other Yorkshire abbey, with the exception of Fountains. They have consequently a very high interest for the archæologist. But, although the situation is still beautiful, the smoke of Leeds has so blackened the ruins and the trees which surround them; the Aire, which flows by, is so completely discoloured; and the valley above and below is so full of busy life and tall chimneys, that Kirkstall has far less charm than many a ruin of less importance. There is of course something very striking in the contrast between these relics of a former age, and the factories and railroads that encircle them. In the first half of the 12th centy. Henry de Lacy, "vir magnarum rerum, et inter proceres regni notissi mus," made a vow, during a danger- The abbot, who had been struck with the capabilities of the site, "began at once," says the chronicler, to point out to Seleth and his brethren the superior advantages of a true monastic life to that which they had adopted; and leaving them to ponder his words went straightway to Henry de Lacy (probably to Pontefract). He told De Lacy of the Barnoldswick troubles, and added that he had found a site in every way preferable, to which the convent might be removed. Kirkstall, however, belonged to William of Poictou, and not to De Lacy: but by the latter's influence the site was gained. (The arms of the abbey, 3 swords palewise, points downwards, were adopted from those of William of Poictou.) Some of the hermits joined themselves to the Cistercian house. Others received a sum of money and departed elsewhere. (A similar body of hermits had established themselves on the ground where Nostell Priory was afterwards founded, and their discovery by Ralph Adlave led to the erection of that house; see Rte. 37. The names of Nostell- North-stall, and Kirkstall, indicate foresters' "stalls" or lodges in the midst of the wood; and it would seem that a small ch. had once existed at Kirkstall before the arrival of the hermits.) Henry de Lacy laid the foundation of the monastic ch. at Kirkstall with his own hands, and the whole fabric of the monastery was completed at his cost. The brethren entered their new house May 19, 1152. The site was admirable, but it proved to be "bonis fere destitutum, præter ligna et lapides." Across the river, however, there was a tract of rich land. William de Rainville, its lord, gave it to the monastery, which henceforth had its cornfields and granges close at hand; and other benefactors speedily increased its possessions. Of the later history of the house there is little to record. On the ac cession of Abbot Hugh of Grimston, | was raised on the older structure. in 1284, the debts of the abbey This seems to have been incapable amounted to 52481. 158. 7d., besides of supporting the additional weight. 59 sacks of wool-an enormons sum At all events 2 sides, and a part of a in those days; but Abbot Hugh third, fell in 1779, leaving the reseems to have been a man of no maining portion in somewhat insecure small energy and resource, since be-condition. From the occurrence of fore his death, which occurred in 1304, the debt had been reduced to 160. The gross annual value at the Dissolution was 5127. 138. 4d. The site was then granted, in exchange for other lands, to Abp. Cranmer, and after many changes it came, with adjoining estates, into the hands of the Earls of Cardigan, who still possess it. the letters W. M. on the buttresses, it appears that this superstructure was added by William Marshall, abbot from 1509 to 1528. The design of the W. front is unusual, very picturesque, and should be especially noticed. The pointed pediment of the portal rises to the sill of the window above it, which has 2 rounded arches within a wider A small sum is paid for admission circ. arch, the tympanum of which is to the ruins, which the visitor is then (at present) quite plain. (The gable, left to examine at his leisure. The and side pinnacles are of later (Perp.) greater part of the remains is Trans.- date). The long nave and transepts Norm.; no doubt belonging to the are of nearly the same date as those original building erected by Henry of Fountains, and, like that, are plain de Lacy. The first abbot-Alexan- and massive, though there is perhaps der, who had been prior of Fountains a greater tendency to enrichment when he removed to Bernoldswick, at Kirkstall. The arches of the and who had procured the site of main arcade are pointed. The winKirkstall-ruled the house for 35 dows of aisles and clerestory are years. verus abbas et re et nomine," round-headed. The transepts were says the chronicler, and was untiring without western aisles, and each in his care for the fabric, which he eastern aisle was divided into 3 lived to see completed, and for all its chapels, separated, as at Fountains, dependencies. The general plan of by solid walls. The choir or chancel the remains resembles that of Foun- was unusually short, projecting only tains (Rte. 21), except that the hos-1 bay beyond the E. wall of the pitium (perhaps owing to the nature of the ground) seems to have been here placed E. of the abbot's house, instead of in the court W. of the ch., as was most usual. 66 The Church, which consists of a long nave, with transepts, and a very short choir, is throughout Trans.Norm. with the exception of the upper part of the tower (at the intersection of the transept) and of the E. end of the choir. These are Perp. of late character. The original tower, in accordance with Cistercian precepts (see Fountains), rose but little above the roof; but, as at Fountains, a later age grew impatient of this simplicity, and a lofty Perp. tower transept. Neither monuments nor tomb-slabs exist in the ch., the entire length of which is 224 ft. 6 in. It does not stand due E. and W., but the Cistercians seem to have paid no great attention to the observance of this rule, which is English rather than universal. At Rievaulx they abandoned it altogether. The Cloister, as usual, is on the S. side of the nave, and forms a quadrangle of 143 ft. by 115. The whole is Trans.-Norm. with round-headed windows and doors. On the E. side, adjoining the S. transept of the ch., is the Chapter-house, a long parallelogram (as was usual with the Cistercians), with 2 massive piers rising |