lease by a committee formed in Leeds, and some excavations have been made under their direction. Some very interesting objects have been discovered, among them a chess-piece of the 12th centy., carved from the tusk of a walrus (see description and figure in the Archæol. Journal, vol. vi.); a mould of Caen stone for casting metal escallopshells; several ornamented keys; fragments of glass and pottery; and a large number of encaustic pavingtiles, portions of patterns of elaborate design. The ruins are tolerably kept, but it is to be regretted that noisy fêtes and large picnics are sometimes permitted among them. The gatherers on such occasions are hardly so reverential as Dr. Johnson, who persisted in remaining uncovered within the roofless walls of St. Andrew's Cathedral. in the centre, and dividing the is now attached to a private residapartment into 3 bays, the 2 western-ence. most of which are Trans.-Norm.; In 1856 the ruins were taken on the eastern (with the eastern pier) Dec. The Chapter-house is 64 ft. 9 in. long and 30 ft. 6 in. wide. Several stone coffins with their covering slabs were inserted in the walls when the apartment was extended, and bones that have been fractured have been found in some of them. Probably they were those of members of the Lacy family, or of the earlier abbots. Some stone coffins, which have not been appropriated, remain on the floor. Beyond the chapter-house are 2 small apartments of uncertain use, and on the S. side of the court is the Refectory, the 4 doorways opening to which are now walled up. The Kitchen opened from the S.E. corner of the refectory; and W. of it was what seems to have been the Fraterhouse, or common room " of the monks. Eastward of the refectory, but now indicated by little more than foundations, was the abbot's house, with hall and chapel as at Fountains, though on a less magnificent scale; and beyond again are the foundations of the Hospitium. These last have been but recently uncovered. 66 The large iron-works at Kirkstall Forge, about a mile from the abbey, probably mark the site of a very ancient foundry established by the monks, who, here as elsewhere in Yorkshire, did not neglect the ironstone which they found on their Kirkstall Church is modern, and dates from 1829. On the hill above the rly. is Kirkstall Grange (William Beckett, Esq.). Leaving Kirkstall, the next stat. on the rly. is at A wide passage W. of the Frater-lands. house formed the main entrance to the cloister court; and stretching along and beyond the W. side of the court was the Great Covered Cloister, 172 ft. 6 in. long by 29 wide. Extending W. of this cloister, at its southern angle, is a building the appropriation of which it is difficult to determine. The Infirmary would naturally be looked for here; but on each side of the building are large and spacious doorways (not inserted after the surrender of the house), and such as from their size, number, and position would have rendered the place quite unsuited for an Infirmary. Above the cloister was the Dormitory. All these buildings are Trans.-Norm. The Gatehouse, N.W. of the abbey, 5 m. Horsforth. The large village (Pop. 4000) with its cloth-mills lies 1. of the line. Rt., soon after leaving the stat. is Mosely Wood, through which ornamental walks have been cut; and behind it Cookridge Hall, once a seat of John Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire (born 1650, d. 1720), court favourite throughout the reigns of Chas. II., Jas. II., and Anne ; a poet whose verses are now forgotten, and a critic whose merit was recognised by Dryden, by Prior "- Happy the poet, blest the lays, Which Buckingham has deigned to praise❞— and by Pope Alma “Such was the muse, whose rules and prac tice tell Nature's chief master-piece is writing well.'"-Essay on Criticism. The last line is from the Duke's Essay on Poetry.' Cookridge Hall has been partly rebuilt. Soon after passing Moseley Wood the rly. plunges into Bramhope Tunnel, cut through the high ground of which Otley Chevin is the cresting ridge. This tunnel is more than 2 m. long, and during its construction some of the workmen were killed by a fall of rock, an accident commemorated by a tablet in Otley ch. (Rte. 29). A short distance beyond the tunnel the line reaches 93 m. Arthington Stat. Here the view on either side is of great beauty, with the Wharfe, here a wide and full river, flowing between green banks and backed by steep wooded hills. 1. branches off the rly. to Otley and Ilkley (Rte. 29); rt. Harewood, castle, ch., house, and park, is distant about 4 m. (An omnibus runs daily from Arthington Stat., but inquiry should be made as to which of the trains it meets. Harewood House is open on Thursdays between 11 and 4.) The drive from Arthington to Harewood is pleasant, with the winding Wharfe 1. Arthington Hall and Park are passed 1. Nearer Harewood (across the river) is the site of a moated house called Rougemont, once a manor-house of the Lisles, lords of Harewood in the 13th centy. The road winds round the wooded hill on which Harewood Castle stands, and then enters the village-pleasant, neat, and well kept. The manor of Harewood was granted after the Conquest to the Romellis, who no doubt erected the first castle here. It passed from them through Fitzgeralds and Lisles to Sir William de Aldburgh, whose arms appear over the principal entrance to the castle. Redmaynes, Rywards lords of Harewood; and the thers, and Gascoignes were afterfamily of Lascelles, who now possess the estate, obtained it by purchase about the year 1740. Harewood Castle stands on high ground, and commands a fine view of the valley of the Wharfe, backed by Rumbald's Moor, above Ilkley. The plan was a quadrangle, with towers at the angles, and with the main entrance on the E. side. On the W. was the great hall, into which there was another entrance, and the principal apartments were on the floor above it. The whole is strongly built of gritstone, and seems to be almost entirely Edwardian. It is possible that the main walls, and the plan of the castle, date from the reign of Edw. I.; but the completion of the building was certainly effected by Sir William de Aldburgh, who married the heiress of the Lisles, and whose shield of arms, with the motto, 66 Vat sal be sal," is seen over a window surmounting the main entrance. The portcullis-room, and the groove for the portcullis itself, are still traceable in this entrance - tower. The chapel with its Dec. windows should be noticed. There is an unusual and very graceful arched recess in the great hall, which Whitaker thought, and perhaps rightly, was intended to serve as a permanent sideboard or beauffet. The castle was probably dismantled during the civil war, although there is no direct evidence of this. Its towers are covered with ivy, and the sketcher may find work for his pencil among the picturesque ruins. Harewood Church (ded. to All Saints) stands in the park about } m. E. of the village. It is Perp., and was possibly the work of the priory of Bolton, to which it was appropriated by Lord Lisle in 1353. In 1793 much of the ancient glass and oak fittings was removed, and the ch. was "beautified" in the fashion of that time. Recently (1865) it has again been "restored," and the interior is now in very perfect order. (The pulpit and font, given by Mr. Edwin Lascelles, are new.) The monuments in Harewood ch., however, are far more interesting than the building itself. In the chancel are the altar-tombs, with effigies, of Sir Richard Redman and his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Aldburgh; and of Sir William Ryther and his wife Sybil, also a daughter of Sir William Aldburgh, the completer of the castle. These effigies are temp. Edw. III., and deserve careful examination. At the E. end of the S. aisle is the tomb, with effigies, of Sir William Gascoigne and his wife. Sir Wm. wears the scarlet judge's robes, with collar of SS, and a coif covering his head. This is the famous Chief Justice of the King's Bench who, in the reign of Henry IV., committed the heir apparent to prison for an insult to himself, who had just sentenced one of the prince's servants, giving rise to the king's well-known words of admiration.—The striking scene in Shakespeare's Henry IV. (Pt. II. act v. sc. 2) in which Hen. V., after his accession, reappoints Sir William as chief justice "You did commit me; For which, I do commit into your hand The unstain'd sword that you have used to bear; With this remembrance,-that you use the 66 an inscription, moreover, which formerly surrounded this altar-tomb (but which has disappeared, it was probably stolen during the civil war), Sir William was recorded as nuper Capit. Justic. de banco, Hen. nuper regis Angliæ quarti"-without reference to Hen. V., which of course would not have been the case had he been also that king's chief justice. In the same aisle is the tomb, with effigies, of Sir Richard Redman (grandson of the Sir R. Redman in the chancel) and his wife, a daughter of Judge Gascoigne's. Here is also a tomb assigned to Sir John Neville of Womersley, died 1482. Harewood House (Earl of Harewood)—it is open on Thursdays was built by Henry Lascelles, 1st Baron Harewood, in 1760, from designs by Adam and Carr of York. It replaced a mansion known as Gawthorpe Hall, which stood by the side of the lake, about 200 yards S. of the present house. In Gawthorpe Hall the Gascoignes lived for a considerable time, and the chief justice was born there. It afterwards passed to the Wentworths, and the great Lord Strafford occasionally made it his home in early life, delighting much (as his letters prove) in the beauty and retirement of the place. Afterwards the notorious Sir John Cutler bought it-the Cutler of Pope (Moral Essays,' ep. iii.) :— "Cutler saw tenants break and houses fall; For very want he could not build a wall. 'Twas very want that sold them for two pound. What e'en denied a cordial at his end, Banish'd the doctor, and expell'd the friend? What but a want, which you perhaps think mad, Yet numbers feel-the want of what he had! Cutler and Brutus, dying, both exclaim, 'Virtue and wealth! what are ye but a name?"" The present Harewood House is one of those porticoed houses of the son. ROUTE 29. LEEDS TO SKIPTON, BY OTLEY AND last centy, which are so thoroughly English and aristocratic that one is inclined to overlook their defects of style in consequence of their respectability and the associations they call up."-Fergusson. Some alterations were made in the house by the late (Otley may be reached from Leeds Sir Chas. Barry. The interior is fine either by a branch of the Midland and stately, with ceilings painted by Rly., which, leaving Leeds from the Zucchi, Rose, and Rebecci; and be- Wellington Stat., follows the Leeds sides, a few good pictures by Rey- and Bradford line (see Rte. 34) to nolds, Lawrence, Hoppner, and Jack- Calverley, and branches thence by The Gallery, a noble apart- Guiseley to Otley-or by a branch ment 77 ft. by 24, contains a collec- of the N.-Eastern Rly., which follows tion of antique china, valued at the line from Leeds to Harrogate as 100,000l. Finer than anything in far as Arthington, and then turns E. the house, however, is the view from to Otley. On the first line there are the terrace. The gardens and plea-5 trains each way daily, and the sure-grounds are extensive and very distance (to Ilkley) is performed in beautiful, and the park, of about 1800 acres, is well wooded and picturesque. Both grounds and gardens were originally laid out by 'Capability" Brown, but have since been much altered and enlarged. The principal garden, on the S. side of the house, was designed by Nesfield, and is wonderfully striking when in full blaze of colour, with enclosing "walls" of shrubbery and wood. One of the vineries, 70 ft. by 26 ft., is entirely filled by a vine of the "Tokay" species, planted in 1783, and still a vigorous bearer. A summer's day may be spent very agreeably at Harewood. 66 about 1 hr. (On this line Guiseley, The Otley (Inn, the White Horse, indifferent) is still, as in the days of the poet Gray, "a large, airy town, with clean, but low, rustic buildings." It has several woollen factories and paper-mills; but the Ch. (lately restored) alone need detain the tourist. This is for the most part late Dec., but contains some Norm. and E. E. portions. The monument of Thomas Lord Fairfax, and of his wife Helen Aske, deserves special notice. He (died 1640) was the father of Ferdinando Lord Fairfax, and grandfather of the more famous Sir Thomas, General of the Parliamentary troops. Under her figure are the lines "Here Lea's frvtfvlnes, here Rachel's bevty Herelyeth Rebecca's fath, here Sarah's duty." "The figures," wrote Gray, "are not ill-cut, particularly his, in armour, but bare-headed." The Manor House, a modern building, occupies the site of a palace of the Archbishops of York, who were lords of Otley. shire. There are also some monuments most definitely throughout his works, for the Fawkeses of Farnley; a varied as they are, is that of Yorkcurious one for William Vavasour, His first conceptions a small figure in a shroud, temp. Jas. of mountain scenery seem to have I.; and a memorial of 54 labourers been taken from Yorkshire, and its who perished during the excavation rounded hills, far-winding rivers, of the Bramhope tunnel. and broken limestone scars to have formed a type in his mind to which he sought, so far as might be obtained, some correspondent imagery in other landscapes. Hence he almost always preferred to have a precipice low down upon the hill-side, rather than near the top; liked an extent of rounded slope above, and the vertical cliff to water and valley better than the slope at the bottom and the wall at the top; and had his attention early directed to those horizontal or comparatively horizontal beds of rock which usually form the face of the precipices in the Yorkshire dales, not, as in the Matterhorn, merely indicated by veined colouring on the surface of the smooth cliff, but projecting or mouldering away in definite succession of ledges, cornices, and steps."-Modern Painters. Overhanging the town, S., is the long hill of Otley Chevin (pron. "Kevin." It is the Brit. Cefn, a back or ridge. The Cheviots, and Chevening in Kent, have been referred to as from the same word, though perhaps doubtfully). The highest point near the W. end is 925 above the sea, and commands a magnificent view. York Minster, 30 m. distant, is easily distinguished in clear weather. Southward, the smoke of Leeds, and of all the manufacturing district towards Halifax, clouds the sky; but toward the N. and N.E. a vast extent of rich country lies mapped out below the spectator, with the Wharfe winding `through its broad green vale. The view from Otley Chevin is an excellent introduction to the picturesque scenery of Upper Wharfedale. [13 m. N. of Otley is Farnley Hall, the seat of Francis Hawkesworth Fawkes, Esq., who has here a very fine collection of pictures, including some of the most admirable works of J. M. W. Turner. The father of the present proprietor was one of Turner's earliest and best patrons; and the artist was for some time in the habit of working on water-colour drawings for Mr. Fawkes whenever he had spare time or opportunity. He was a constant visitor at Farnley, and to this connection we are indebted for most of the wonderful drawings by which the great artist has illustrated Wharfedale and the N.W. of Yorkshire. "The scenery," writes Mr. Ruskin, "whose influence I can trace [Yorkshire.] Farnley Hall (which can only be seen by the special permission of its owner) is partly Elizabethan, but the older parts are concealed by a modern house built by Carr of York. It stands, surrounded by woods, on high ground, and commands fine views of Wharfedale and the Chevin. The drawing-room was painted by Le Brun. Of the pictures the most important are Duchess d'Aremberg, whole length, Vandyck; Magdalen, Guido; Madonna, Carlo Dolce; Lord Cottington, Jansen; Flower-piece, Rachel Ruysch; Dead Game, Weenix; Boar Hunt, Snyders; Cattle, Ad. Vandervelde; Susannah and the Elders, Guercino; Landscape, Both; Ditto, Cuyp; A Gale, Backhuysen; Lady Hamilton, Romney. Also the following landscapes, by J. M. W. Turner:-View of Dort-Gale of Wind, called the Red Cap-A Calm and a Fresh Gale, two sea pieces— Chillon Castle, on Lake Leman, and R |