founder's daughter and heiress, granted to it the ch. of Tadcaster, and 100 acres of land in Calton, where she was born. The convent still remained poor and dissatisfied, however, complaining of the bad climate, of the hospitality they were compelled to show to numbers of people passing on the public way near their house, and of the ravages of the Scots; but although few additional grants of land seem to have been made to it, a household book of the abbey preserved at Whalley shows that in 1381 its revenue amounted to about 3771., so that its position had by that time been greatly improved. The last abbot, William Trafford, was concerned in the Pilgrimage of Grace, and was accordingly hanged at Lancaster (1537). The house, which was then dissolved, was granted to Sir Arthur Darcy, one of the Northern Commissioners for the suppression. From him it passed through many hands to its present owner.

There were frequent disagreements between the monks of Sawley and of Whalley in Lancashire, an abbey which had been founded at a later period. The monks of Sawley complained that this more recent foundation had made all the necessaries of life dearer in their neighbourhood. In a provincial chapter of the Cistercian abbots, held in 1305, the monks of the two houses were exhorted to live in brotherly love; and it was ordered that any Sawley monk offending against Whalley should be sent to Whalley for punishment, and vice versa. This ingenious plan seems to have been effectual in preventing breaches of the monastic peace.

The site of Sawley can never have been so secluded as those of other Cistercian houses in Yorkshire; but the highway, which now runs close to the ruin, was originally on the W. of the mill-stream; and the park or close, of about 50 acres, quite surrounded the abbey. This close, which was entered by two gates called N.

and S. port, has been cleared of hovels and fences; and from the high ground above it there is a very fine view up and down Ribblesdale. The old poverty of the house is shown by the rough material (black shale and boulder-stones) with which the buildings were constructed, until shortly before the Dissolution, when ashlar stone was used. The Church was in progress of alteration when the house was suppressed; and the plan, owing to the condition in which the work was arrested, is at first perplexing. The first ch. was cruciform, but with the great peculiarity that the length of the transept exceeded that of the united nave and choir by 12 ft. Nave and choir were aisleless. The transept had 3 eastern chapels in each wing. The short nave, of which the walls remain to a height of 25 ft., seems to have had no side windows, and to have been lighted only from above the W. door. Outside its N. wall is a foundation ranging with the nave, but prolonged considerably beyond it. This seems to have been an additional aisle or chapel built during the Dec. period, since a piscina of that character remains in the (once exterior) wall of the nave. There was no communication, however, with the nave; and, apparently, none with the transept. At the E. end of the chapel was a window looking into the transept, with an altar below it. The walls of the transept remain about 12 ft. high, and the eastern chapels are worth attention. In the southernmost is a large tomb-slab, sculptured with 2 foliated crosses, and 2 skeletons were found in the grave below. S.W. of it, in the body of the transept, is the tombslab of William of Rimington, Prior of Sawley, and, in 1372, Chancellor of Oxford. He was named, no doubt, from the neighbouring village of Rimington, and was probably the "William of Rimington" who wrote sundry tracts against the Wickliffites remaining in MS. in the Bodleian

son

Library. The pavements in the middle chapel of each transept wing are of the 13th centy., excellent in design, and closely resembling one found in 1760 at Meaux Abbey (see Rte. 7), also Cistercian. In the northernmost chapel is a slab from which the brass has disappeared, but which covered the remains of "Sir Robert de Clyderhow," once "Parof Wigan, in Lancashire. Sir Robert was a strong supporter of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, in his contention with Edw. II. in 1321, sending his son and others to the Earl's assistance when in arms, and offering absolution in his ch. at Wigan to all who joined the party of the barons. For these offences he was afterwards tried, but his life was spared, and he seems to have retired, either from choice or necessity, to Sawley. Outside this chapel, but in a sunk area of the transept floor, is a slab of the 14th centy., with cross and sword, and what seems to be a sling for casting stones. A slab forming a step of the doorway in the S. wall of the transept also deserves attention; it bears a cross, the bar and stem of which are formed by an enormous sword. The choir seems to have been rebuilt in the Perp. period although the walls of the original Norm. choir, about 9 ft. high, still remain, and were probably left until a central tower could be erected. The Perp. choir was much longer, and had aisles. That this choir was completed is to be inferred from the existence of part of the floor of the high altar, and from the discovery of much Perp. glass upon and around it.

At the S. end of the transept are the foundations of the chapter-house, and of 2 adjoining apartments not easily appropriated. The unusual shortness of the Norm. nave interfered altogether with the usual arrangement of the cloister court; and accordingly buildings were continued beyond it, in a line with its eastern

side. These were probably the Fraterhouse (or common refectory), with buttery and other offices attached. The S. side of the cloister court has been demolished nearly to the foundation. Here, however, were the great refectory (102 ft. by 28) and kitchen. On the W. side seems to have been the Abbot's house, enlarged apparently in the Perp. period. At the southern angle is a cottage (of Tudor work), which has been inhabited since the dissolution, and was probably part of this house.

Of the farm-buildings of the abbey, a granary and corn-mill alone remain, at a short distance W. The northern gate-house-in which the Tudor arch of the outer and inner walls is alone ancient-stands about 270 ft. from the ruins. Much stained glass, many encaustic tiles, and other fragments, were found during the excavations, and carefully preserved. (Mr. J. R. Walbran's paper on the excavations here will be found in the Report of the United Archit. Soc. for 1852.)

About 1 m. beyond Sawley the boundary of Yorkshire is crossed, and we reach the rly. stat. at Chatburn. (See Handbook for Lancashire.)

The corner of Yorkshire of which the Ribble forms the boundary is interesting from the great mass of Pendle Hill (across the border), which so often forms the background of picturesque views. The old forest of Bolland or Bowland, which lifts its limestone summits toward the N.W., is a district which will hardly reward the patience of the explorer. It is the watershed of streams which run into the Lune on one side, and into the Ribble on the other; and the Yorkshire boundary passes along the crests of its highest ridges - Wolf Crag, Cross of Greet, Bolland Knots, and Burnmoor-names which are more picturesque than the country in which they are found. "On the northward slope of Bolland Knots, looking

toward Ingleborough, many fragments of trees appear, rooted below or lying prostrate in the peat, especially in situations where water might stagnate, at elevations and in aspects where now the utmost art and care fail to raise oaks or pines, or indeed any tall trees. This is one of many examples spread over the British Isles and Northern Europe, for which no satisfactory explanation can be given by climatal variation of merely local character. Similar phenomena have been noticed on the E. side of Ingleborough at more than 1300 ft. above the sea." Phillips.

A Roman road ran through this part of Craven from Ribchester (Cocceium?) in Lancashire to Overborough (Bremetonaca?) in Westmoreland. Great part of this road, which crossed the Hodder W. of Browsholme, has been traced. The Hodder, a picturesque tributary of the Ribble, descends from Longridge, a conspicuous fell W., and forms the boundary between Yorkshire and Lancashire from its junction with the Ribble as far as Whitewell. Bashall, an ancient house of the Talbots, and Browsholme (Thomas Goulbourn Parker, Esq.), a house dating from the reign of Hen. VII., are in the valley of the Hodder, and may easily be visited from Clitheroe. At Browsholme the silver seal of the Commonwealth "for the approbation of ministers "—is preserved.

ROUTE 33.

LEEDS TO SKIPTON, BY BINGLEY AND KEIGHLEY (SALTAIRE; HAWORTH). (Midland Railway. 26 m. Skipton, 11 trains daily; to Bradford, 21.)

To

Leaving Leeds from either the Wellington or the Holbeck Stat., the rly. throughout its course to Skipton runs through the valley of the Aire. The river is accompanied by the Leeds and Liverpool Canal; at first on its S. side, afterwards on the N. River and canal are alike black with streams that run into them from the many dyeworks and factories of all kinds that rise along the valley; still pretty and wooded, in spite of the change which has filled it "with mills and looms, water-wheels and engine-chimneys." Airedale and Calderdale are the two great centres of Yorkshire enterprise and manufacture.

(The Leeds and Liverpool Canal was partly opened in 1774, but the works, which were commenced at both ends, proved very difficult and expensive, and the canal was not finished until 1816. James Brindley, the famous engineer of the Bridgewater Canal, surveyed and laid out the whole line of this navigation, 130 miles in length. The advantages of the canal are still felt, notwithstanding the railways which have since been constructed; and the rise of Leeds, Bradford, and other manufacturing towns on its course has no doubt been hastened by the facilities afforded by it. It was the first good "highway" for the conveyance of raw material and manufactured

and the canal, the rly. passes through a tunnel in the projecting hill, which here occupies an angle of the river. At

11 m. Shipley Stat., a branch line turns S. up the course of the Bradford Beck to (13 m. from Leeds) Bradford. (See Rte. 34.) Shipley, full of mills and dye-works, has a Perp. ch. of little interest; but in the parish is what every visitor to this neighbourhood, who cares for factories and their most perfect arrangements, should endeavour to see -the great establishment of Saltaire. There is a station at Saltaire, which ism. beyond Shipley, and most (but not all) of the trains stop there. The manufactory is not shown without an especial introduction. Its exterior, however, the church, and the village are well worth a visit.

Saltaire-manufactory, town, and ch.-has arisen entirely from the energy and resources of Titus Salt, Esq., of Methley. The factory was opened in 1853, when an entertainment was given in it to more than 4000 persons; and since that date the settlement has been gradually improving and increasing. The position of the great factory on the bank of the river is striking. On the N. side the bank is high and well wooded; the Aire itself is here not greatly stained, and a dam across it gives a dash of white foam as a foreground to the mass of plain but good Italian building, with the ch. opposite the main entrance. The Byzantine character of this ch., which has a gilt spike upon the cupola of its tower, assists the " 'Imperial" impression produced by the entire settlement. The whole is, in fact, very Russianthe work of one autocratic mind.

among whom Pizarro, in 1525, found the animal, called by them "Pacos," domesticated) was first brought to England in 1809. Some attempts, which proved unsuccesssful, were made to acclimatize it; and some of the wool, imported from S. America, had been spun and woven in the neighbourhood of Bradford, with unsatisfactory result, until Mr. Salt finally overcame "the difficulties of preparing and spinning the alpacawool, so as to produce an even and true thread, and by combining it with cotton warps, which had then (1836) been imported into the trade of Bradford, improved the manufacture, so as to make it one of the staple industries of the kingdom."- (James, 'Hist. of Worsted.') An enormous quantity of alpaca-wool is now annually imported, nearly all of which is worked up in the Bradford district. The main articles now manufactured from alpaca-wool consist of alpaca lustres (dyed) and alpaca mixtures (undyed), both made of cotton or silk warp. Great quantities of "fancy alpacas" are also made, varying with varying fashions, and distinguished by all sorts of fantastic names. Those who are fortunate enough to see the works here will find a stuffed alpaca and its young one at the end of the first office. The animal is about the size of a full-grown deer, with a fleece averaging from 5 to 8 in. long. Passing beyond this office, the whole process of preparing and spinning the wool, from its first arrival in great bales to the finished fabric of various descriptions, may be seen and wondered at.

(The alpaca-wool arrives in bales of about 70 lbs., and is generally in an impure state, with different qualities mixed. It is here sorted into about 8 different qualities, each fitted for a particular class of goods.)