336 DEPARTURE FROM POTOSI. CHAPTER XI. Adieu to Potosi.- Unexpected welcome at the village of Otavi.—Diamonds and pearls in abundance, but no bread. -Valley of Cinti.-Judge Advocate of the High Court of Judicature and his three daughters.-A wearisome journey.-Village of San Lorenzo.-Hospitable reception at Tarija.-Robert de Vere Earl of Oxford and the Conde de Toxo Marquis of Yavi. APRIL 29th, 1827, I bade adieu to Potosi. At three o'clock in the morning I was clattering through the steep and narrow streets, with my cavalcade of refractory mules and spirited horses, accompanied by two peones, who had long been in my service. The latter had a glass each of aguardiente, and the former a double feed of maize, so that, on setting out, the whole party were under a temporary degree of excitement, which occasioned self-will on one hand and vociferation on the other, to a pitch so alarmingly clamorous, as to rouse many a head from its pillow and cause it to be thrust FOR THE LAST TIME. 337 in amazement through the window as we passed. On leaving the city for the last time, I experienced a strange mixture of delight and sorrow. An exile freed from banishment could not have set out from his dreary and uninteresting abode with spirits more elated by joy than mine; but then it was impossible not to feel their buoyancy occasionally checked by sensations of deep regret, in reflecting on the unexpected and disastrous termination of my mission. The morning was dark, with a piercing cold wind, and the shallow streams we crossed were frozen so hard as to bear the animals on the ice without its breaking. At night we stopped at the hut of an Indian, having accomplished about thirty miles. 30th. Even at this short distance from Potosi we felt very sensibly the difference of temperature; and, although summer was gone and winter approaching, the freshness of the morning was delightful. On preparing to march, I was sadly mortified to find that my first day's journey should have already deprived me of the use of two of my mules, which were so severely injured by the pack-saddles, as to make it necessary to hire asses for the conveyance of my baggage; 338 VILLAGE OF OTAVI. and their wearisome pace did not in any way contribute to interest or enliven the solitude of this day's journey over a succession of barren mountains. At nightfall I arrived at the remains of the village of Otavi, and, on inquiring where I might find a lodging, an Indian pointed to a large house, at the ponderous gate of which I knocked, and was admitted into a spacious court, where several persons were sitting on a bench smoking cigars. One of them immediately approached and said, " He supposed I was a caminante (traveller) seeking a lodging for the night."-" Exactly so," said I.-" Dismount" said he, at the same time taking hold of my horse's bridle, as a civil welcome whilst I alighted. Step forward," said he, pointing to the opposite side of the court, "to that saloon, and you will there find my father the Marquis, who will be happy to receive you."-The Marquis! said I to myself, quien diablo es eso!-I entered the saloon, (large enough and sufficiently furnished for a barrack,) and saw sitting on the mud-bench, which is usually built against the walls of apartments in this country, an elderly and highly respectable-looking gentleman, leaning on a table covered with a piece of old carpet, and on it a 66 MARQUIS OF OTAVI. 339 cat which he seemed to be caressing. I had scarcely made my bow, when the gentleman rose, and with hand extended for the friendly shake, approached me, saying, "Ola! Señor Don Edmondo! you are welcome to Otavi." I was at once both surprised and gratified at this reception, for I had no expectation of finding an acquaintance here, nor was I aware of the existence of any such titled personage in the Republic. It proved, however, that I had a pre- . vious slight acquaintance at Potosi with the Marquis of Otavi, though I knew him only as a private individual, occasionally meeting him without knowing his name. The Marquis of Otavi showed me to a very decent out-house bed-chamber. "Here," said he, "you may order your muchacho to spread your bed, whilst we go to supper, which is now ready. We then returned to the saloon, where a ragged peone spread a dirty towel on the table, and was directed to "put the chair for the cavallero." Another peone arrived with an armful of dingy silver plates, which he scattered and clattered on the table with several forks and a knife. Five of us now managed to place ourselves at the table, and immediately a deep silver dish was laid before us with chupe, i. e. bits of mutton, potatoes, onions, and aji, boiled 340 EXTENSIVE ESTATE. together, composing a very good family dish. Some broiled ribs of mutton followed as the second course; a silver goblet with water stood in the middle of the table for the use of the guests, and here ended the Marquis's entertainment, with which all must have been very fairly satisfied, if the meal was relished with an appetite such as I gave unequivocal proofs of having brought with me. I was, indeed, little disappointed in seeing water only for the beverage, rich and wholesome as it was repeatedly pronounced to be; because, at Cinti, a few leagues distant, excellent wine is made, and might be had cheap. Besides, the estate of the Marquis furnishes grapes in abundance, together with every other production of Nature; a circumstance, which, on reflection, also induced me to think that mine host's table might have been a little more plenteously served. The noble owner of an estate, extending in one direction upwards of thirty leagues, and so near to such a market as that of Potosi, where every article of necessity or luxury at one time met with a ready sale, and where there is still a very fair consumption, might be expected to have acquired a taste for more convenience and better cheer than was here to be met with. It is true that, in the revolution, the Marquis |