as in the Berlin Gallery-a great step has been made in the last four years, to present a history of arts, by arranging the school in a somewhat more chronological sequence. The quays are being completely finished and put in order, so as to make them worthy of the palaces which stand upon them; and several of the oldest of the stone bridges are being completely rebuilt.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, the exquisite chapelle called La Sainte Chapelle, and other churches have been, or are being carefully restored within and without; the Pantheon has been newly decorated, and converted into a splendid church; the Dome of the Invalides is to be re-gilt; and the interior of the church (which corresponds to our Chelsea Hospital) has been lavishly decorated, to make it worthy to be the shrine of Napoleon's tomb; and beneath the dome the tomb itself is nearly completed: what that will be under the finishing touch of his nephew, Napoleon III., may be imagined!

In addition to these national works there is one which promises to be not less magnificent or costly, and which to Englishmen ought to be the most pleasing, as it is certainly the most flattering of all, namely, the vast palace erecting for the Exhibition of 1855.

This remarkable building, which is intended to remain as one of the grandest palaces of Paris, is being built entirely of stone in the most solid and substantial manner, and, considering the materials, of extraordinary dimensions. It is between 800 and 900 feet long, by about 400 feet broad. The walls are a long series of massive arches rising above one another, each arch being intended to form one great window of glass.

Each long side is broken by a great building, which projects some distance, and contains one of the principal arched entrances, and the offices and apartments for the superintendents and officers of the Exhibition. The building promises to be a noble palace. It is admirably situated on the left side of the great avenue leading to the Arc de Triomphe, about half way between the Triumphal Arch and the Tuilleries.

These extensive improvements and embellishments will render Paris the most splendid city in the world; science and art, and apparently inexhaustible resources of money, accomplishing artificially what nature has done for some of the beautiful cities in Italy and along the shores of the Mediterranean.

And thus the Anglo-Saxon of the other hemisphere may still be expected to expatiate in the highest eulogistic terms of the capital of France, to the disparagement of London. Even our own provincial countrymen re-echo the reproach against their own metropolis-alleging, however, that it cannot be otherwise, while our Minister of Public Works knows nothing about architecture, and that nearly all our national works are merciless jobs

The Author of the Classical tour through Italy accounts for this in a more generous spirit.

I feel some regret, he observes, in being obliged to acknowledge that the metropolis of the British Empire, though the first city of Europe for neatness, convenience, and cleanliness, is yet inferior to most capitals in architectural embellishments. This defect is owing in a great degree to the nature of the materials of which it is formed, as brick is ill calculated to receive the graceful forms of an Ionic Volute, or a Corinthian Acanthus ; while the dampness of the climate seems to preclude the possibility of applying stucco to the external parts with vermanent advantage. Besides, some blame may justly be

INTRODUCTION.

xxix attributed to architects, who either know not, or neglect the rules of proportion and the models of antiquity; and in edifices, where no expense has been spared, often display splendid instances of wasteless contrivance and of grotesque ingenuity. But it is to be hoped that the industry and the taste of the British nation will ere long triumph over this double obstacle,-inspire artists with genius, teach even bricks to emulate marble, and give a becoming beauty and magnificence to the seat of government and the capital of so mighty an empire. Augustus found Rome of brick and in his last moments boasted that he left it of marble. May not London hope at length to see its Augustus. But if our "Minister of Public Works" cannot accomplish this by decrees-we can refer with satisfaction to the modern works of national importance constructed in all parts of the United Kingdom, by private capital and skill, and what this as already done in "Public Works" on the Continent. We are reconciled to these drawbacks by other considerations. Much as we admire the genius of Stevenson, of a Barry, a Paxton, Watt, and justly proud as we may be of the people's palace at Sydenham, we are prouder of the "great facts" enumerated by the Author of Paris re-visited.

If England, he remarks, was not among the earliest to distinguish herself in the FineArts, we must derive some consolation under the reproach of this, from the circumstance that religion was reformed of its most absurd superstitions, and political tyranny was chequed and controlled among us for some hundreds of years before any of our neighbours stirred in these public undertakings which are surely not insignificant. Literature, being essential to the deliverance of the human mind and the elevation of human feelings, was always sedulously attended to in England; and in regard to it she has no reason to blush either for her want of taste or want of power.

Painting and Sculpture certainly lagged behind, and it would be easy enough to account for their lateness, in a way that would rather prove it to reflect credit than dishonour on the minds of the people; but it is not necessary to say anything invidious of two elegant arts. When the accomplishment of great public duties, involving gallant enterprises, had afforded a fair opportunity for relaxation,-when the process of thoughtful enquiry, and the fiery trials of conflict and disputation, had issued in the settlement of a substantial fabric of public strength, freedom, and opulence,-when the useful having been pretty generally attained, the merely-agreeable might be safely cultivated, England evinced neither a want of taste or talent for elegant imitation. Reynolds, Hogarth, and Wilson, are names which suggest high degrees (some of them the highest) of almost all the variety of excellence belonging to painting.

London is certainly deficient in elegancies of architecture, though less so than common report declares, in consequence of the little parade that is made there of anything we have. Our palaces are very mean and clumsy; and as they are the first objects to which a foreigner looks, he seldom looks beyond them, being satisfied that they would be elegant if any of our buildings were so. But he ill-understands England, he must turn to what has been done by private wealth or popular spirit, by commercial prosperity or public charity, for her most magnificent displays ;-her sovereigns have seldom had it in their power to build even a cottage but subject to the severest questioning. The point to be settled is, which is most honourable to a country's taste, to say nothing of its general character, the enjoyment of public liberty, exercising a control over the

authorities of the state, or the erection of such beautiful palaces, as those which the Bourbons gave to their favourites.

In conclusion, we would express the hope, that while England emulates France in all that appertains to the Fine Arts, and the sciences, and her Educational Institutions, for all classes of her people, France may be able to emulate Old England in her glorious institutions of civil and religious government, so that in course of time, moving onwards side by side in the march of civilization, rival competitors in the Arts of Peace, the similarity in their institutions, shall exercise such an influence over the minds of both people, that it shall be impossible to disturb their friendly and commercial relationship, to "exhume" old animosities, and much less to revive a warlike disposition between two nations, who now, for almost the first time in their histories, appreciate the advantages of a sincere "Entente Cordiale," of an alliance bringing England and France "side by side in Peace or War;" and that under the reign of a Napoleon, whose conduct in this respect is alike honourable to his feelings and to his character.

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER.

In drawing up the following instructions, it has been presumed that the traveller will have provided himself with Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide, as indispensabie to railway travelling on the Continent; and reference is, therefore, made frequently to that book, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition here. As extensions of the railway system cause alterations in the number of the pages of that book, from time to time, where a reference is made to a particular page, if the information required is not found there, it will probably be on one of the adjoining pages.

1. WHAT SHOULD BE DONE IN LONDON-PASSPORTS-MONEY-LUGGAGE.-The first thing the traveller must see about is his passport, for which ample instructions are found at pp. 19-22 of Bradshaw's Continental Guide. Mr. W. J. Adams, our London agent, will answer any inquiries on this head, or take the necessary steps to procure a passport for those who desire it.

2. MONEY.-See pp. 23-5 of Bradshaw's Continental Guide, and the table below. Bank-notes are negociable in some of the principal towns, and sovereigns are received; but the best plan is to change your English money into French napoleons at a respectable money-changer's at London or in France (changeur). English gold, however, will pass anywhere (silver is useless), so will the louis d'or or napoleon, and the fivefranc piece. As to expenses, 10s. to 20s. per head per day may be allowed. The latter sum will cover all charges of living in the best hotels, and travelling by first class railway and the best places in the coach. In the country inns board and lodging may be had for 6 francs to 10 francs a-day. Living is so cheap in Brittany, that 'Nimrod' says a man may live there like a prince on £60 to £100 a-year; but, of course, at a sacrifice of mary English comforts.

3. LUGGAGE AND DRESS.-The less luggage you take the better. A carpet-bag is enough, with half-a-dozen shirts, two pairs of socks, and as few other things as possible. The socks should be woollen or worsted, which may be bought as you go, throwing the worn-out ones away. Brown, grey, or dark dresses are fitted for men or ladies; and as to the style, let it be simple. A light overcoat, and an umbrella for a stick are essential. Soap is not common, and being charged in the bills abroad, you should provide yourself with a stock before taking up your quarters. The pedestrian should, of course, put on a stout pair of double-soled shoes, and wear gaiters, especially as the roads are more dusty than ours. Where shoes chafe in walking, take a sheet of writing paper, grease it over, and wrap it round the foot next the skin. Good knapsacks may be got abroad. 4. LETTERS.-The traveller will find it convenient to have his letters addressed to him to the "Poste Restante," in the various towns at which he expects to be. They will be delivered on the passport being shewn, or, in some cases-as Paris, for instance -the name-card only is required. There are now two posts daily (one in the morning and the other in the evening) leaving London for France. All letters for France go through the London post-office, and for the morning mail (must be in the London office before 7 45 a.m., and the evening mail before six p.m. The time required for conveying them to any part of France can be ascertained by reference to Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide, and in very little more than this time the traveller may expect them at their appointed place.

5. WAY TO GET TO FRANCE, AND LANDING THERE.-See pp. 140-1 of Bradshaw's Continental Guide, from which the following is extracted :—

a. Calais Route.-London to Paris direct, viâ Dover and Calais, 346 miles, in 12} hours, viz.:-Departure from London for Dover (1st class only) at 8 30 p.m.; arrival at Dover 11 15 p.m.; departure from Dover 11 30 p.m.; arrival at Calais 2 a.m.; arrival at Paris 10 a.m. (See page 30, Route 10, of Hand Book; and read the descriptions in an inverted order back to page 21). Through tickets, 61s. There are 26 miles only of sea by this route, which in the old coach days took 58 to 60 hours between London and Paris. By the direct train the luggage is examined only on arrival at Paris. Another direct train (1st and 2nd class) starts at 8 10 a.m., reaching Dover at 11 a.m., Calais at 3 p.m., and Paris at 11 5 p.m; through tickets, 61s. and 43s. 9d. Travellers for Marseilles, on landing at Boulogne or Calais, should have their passports visé for that place direct, to save delay at Paris; they will receive a provisional passport for 2 francs. The station, refreshment room, and douane at Calais are close to the quay. Two departures from Calais for Dover daily. Calais may be also reached by the General Steam Navigation Company's steamers, direct from London Bridge Wharf, twice a-week, in 9 to 10 hours. Fares 12s. and 8s.

b. Boulogne Route.-London to Paris direct in about 12 hours, by South Eastern Railway and Packets from Folkestone, according to tide. (See pp. 35-6, Route 12; and read back). Through tickets, 51s. 6d. and 37s. Or by General Steam Navigation Company's boats four times a-week, direct from London Bridge Wharf, in 10 hours. Fares, 12s. and 8s.; or through, 31s. and 22s.

c. Dieppe Route.-Direct, in 12 to 15 hours, by Brighton Railway, steamer from Newhaven to Dieppe, according to tide, and railway to Rouen and Paris. (See pp.

12-13, Route 2; and read back). About 72 miles of sea passage. Through fares, 28s. & 20s. d. Havre Route.-By South Western Railway to Southampton, steam to Havre, and railway to Rouen and Paris (see pp. 10-12, Route 1; and read back); or by steamer direct from London Bridge Wharf, every Sunday and Thursday. Through fares, 28s. and 20s. N.B.-Steamer only three times a-week; sea passage, 102 miles.

e. Dunkirk Route.-By steamer direct from Irongate Wharf, two or three times a week, in about twelve hours. Fares 10s. and 7s. (See pp. 38-9, Route 14).

In addition to what is here stated, you may take the route to Jersey from Southampton or Newhaven; thence to Avranches, Granville, St. Malo; and through Brittany to Nantes, &c. Before you land at a French port, make up your mind as to the hotel you choose, as, by so doing, you secure to yourself the services of the porter of that hotel directly you land, and are saved annoyance from the touters who crowd at the landing. No baggage, except it may be a small parcel, or a carpet bag, (if at night) is allowed to be taken ashore by the passengers, but is detained at the Douane (custom-house), where you may clear it yourself or pay a porter (commissionnaires, as they are called) to clear it.

Your passport is taken from you at the Douane, and a provisional passport given you instead, which will take you on to Paris. Or if you make a stay of a day or two at the port, you apply for the provisional pass on leaving it. This you may do through the commissionnaire, who will also clear your baggage. It is much better in either case to make use of such an agent, who will for a franc or two take all the trouble off your hands, and save much bother and loss of time. The regular charge when you clear is, per package, 7 sous (31d.) if under 10lb., 14 sous from 10 to 561b., 1 franc above that weight; every package being charged, so that the fewer you have the better. For carriage to the hotel you pay a porter 50 cents (5d.) for the first package, and 25 cents for each of the others. When leaving a French port for England, a permis d'embarquement may be had at the Douane one hour before the steamer starts, or between one and three p.m. when she leaves at night. Once on board you cannot go ashore again without special permission. You may bring back, free of duty, a pint of spirits, and half-pint of eau-de-Cologne. By a new arrangement, luggage direct to London, by some of the trains on the South Eastern Railway, is not examined at Dover or Folkestone, but at the London Bridge station. Luggage, also, in Steamers from abroad, is examined by the officer on board, between Gravesend and London.

6. LIVING IN FRANCE.-When you go to an inn choose your bed at once, au premier, au second, au troisième, &c., on the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd story; the higher stories being the cheapest. In your bed room, if you desire it, there is no objection to your taking tea and seeing your friends, if you have not a private sitting room. It is not indispensable that you take your meals in the hotel, though it may be advisable to do so as often as convenience will permit. At other times you may find a café or restaurant desirable for eating or drinking, and there is often one of these attached to good hotels in Paris and other large cities in France. To make the most of your time for sight-seeing, two meals a-day may suffice, a good breakfast to start with, and a dinner at the end of it. Frenchmen seldom make more than two regular meals. If you. come back to the table d'hôte (ordinary), kept at every hotel at a fixed hour, and at a charge of from 3 to 5 francs), you may safely trust yourself to the landlord who presides. The courses