nights on the same excursion had been mere blanks between the days' enjoyments, and the beds rested on left no other recollection but the intensity of the sleep they bestowed, this night was crowded with the whole history of certain petty school persecutions. These visions kept entirely clear of the period of genial and attractive study fostered by a kindly scholar, and fixed themselves on an episode of school-life endured under a hard, irritable pedagogue, who made his own life and the lives of all who came about him miserable.

The phenomenon had its efficient cause. I had then, for the first time in a life of many rambles, put myself, along with two hapless companions, under the jurisdiction and authority of a guide. There was no help for it if we were to do what we projected. In the first place, it would have been madness otherwise to attempt to climb at night to the lone inn on the Wengern Alp. Then we were for glacier-work next day, and that could not be accomplished without help. I had once tried it alone, to my utter confusion and humiliation. I have a lively recollection, too, of the horror expressed by a friend authorised to put LL.D. after his name, who, seeing from the inn-window at the Grindelwald certain little black

spots on the surface of the glacier, was told that these represented a body of guides endeavouring to extricate a Doctor of Laws who had stuck deep down in a crevasse, where he was then exemplifying the phenomena of congelation. Yes, it must be admitted as a humiliating fact, that a guide is just as necessary to the pedestrian on the glacier, as a pilot is to a vessel in a shoaly and rocky sea.

It was the suffering of spirit endured through some three days of the detested bondage of guidehood, that made me vow that some day when I had leisure for the task I would lift my testimony against the extension, beyond where it is absolutely unavoidable, of a system of voluntary slavery that has rooted itself among the hapless class of persons denominated Tourists. It is not alone in submission to the iron rule of the professional guide that this degrading phenomenon is developed. It exists in the mapping-out, in guide-books and otherwise, of certain routes which the tourist is to take, certain things which he is to see, and certain occurrences-generally arrant falsehoodsin which he is to believe. Having protested against a similar usurpation of authority as to the books which the collector should acquire

and read, and the method in which he should read them, I offer these fugitive pages as an inducement to the rambler to shake himself free of guidance, by endeavouring to describe to him a specimen of the kind of scenes he may alight on if he "take his feet in his hands," as an old saying goes, and independently step out of the range of the established tours. Comparison, however it may be denounced by one precept as odious, is by another recommended to us as a valuable medium of explanation. I therefore propose to "set off," as dealers say, the merits of my favourite district, by comparing it with one well known to the touring world in Scotland, and forming, indeed, the most notable feature it contains.

It was on a bright, hot day of July, which threw the first gleam of sunshine across a long tract of soaking, foggy, dreary, hopeless weather, that I first ascended Ben Nevis. The act was unpremeditated. The wet and fog of weeks had entered into my soul; and I had resolved, in the spirit of indignant resignation, that I would not attempt the hill. Accordingly I was stalking lazily along General Wade's road with a new-made acquaintance, who has become a distinguished geologist-we had left Fort William,

and I thought there might be a probability of reaching Fort Augustus to dinner-when we were not ungratefully surprised to see the clouds tucking themselves up the side of the mountain in a peculiar manner, which gives the experienced wanderer of the hills the firm assurance of a glorious day. Soon afterwards the great mountain became visible from summit to base, and its round head and broad shoulders stood dark against the bright blue sky. A sagacious-looking old Highlander, who was passing, protested that the hill had never looked so hopeful during the whole summer: the temptation was irresistible; so we both turned our steps towards the right, and commenced the ascent.

It is one among the prevailing fallacies of the times, that to mount a Highland hill is a very difficult operation, and that one should hire a guide on the occasion. I am able, on the ground of long experience, to say that, if the proper day be chosen, and the right method adopted, the ascent of our grandest mountains is one of the simplest operations in all pedestrianism. True, if people take it in the way in which pigs run up all manner of streets, and go straight forward, looking neither to the right nor to the left, they will run their heads against nature's

stone walls, which are at least as formidable as man's. But let any one study the disposal of the ground, calculating the gradients and summitlevels as if he were a railway engineer for the time being let him observe where the moss lies deep, and precipices rise too steep to be scrambled over—and he will be very obtuse indeed if he is not able to chalk out for himself precisely the best way to the top.

It is a good general rule to keep by the side of a stream. That if you do so when you are at the top of a hill, you will somehow or other find your way to the bottom, is a proposition as sound as Newton's theory of gravitation. But in the ascent the stream is often far better than a human guide. It has no interest to lead you to the top of some episodical hill and down again, and to make you scramble over an occasional dangerous rough bit, to show you how impossible it is that you could have found the way yourself, and how fortunate you are in having secured the services of an intelligent and intrepid guide. As long as you keep by the side of the stream you are always gaining ground and making your way towards the higher levels, while you avoid bogs: for the edge of a stream is generally the driest part of a mountain.