Copper forms a considerable amount of the circulating medium of Chile. The Government has ceased to coin doubloons or their fractions since the year 1851; yet they remain in circulation and form a large part of the currency of the country. All considerable payments are made in gold, owing to the scarcity of silver, which is only used to make change; and even for that silver coin has sometimes commanded a premium of from one to seven per centum. The decimal system of currency was adopted in this country by Legislative Act in 1851, and seems to have been borrowed from France. The Peso is the unit of value, and is divided into one hundred parts denominated centavos.

In 1820 the population of Valparaiso did not exceed five thousand. Since then it has increased greatly in commercial importance, and its population is now estimated at seventy-five thousand. French, Germans, English, and Americans, contribute largely to make up this number. These are recognized as well by their business activity, energy, and enterprise, as by their fairer complexion and European costume, though in dress they are imitated by the better class of Chilenos. The natives who are direct descendants of Spaniards retain the physical characteristics of that renowned people, and the grace and dignity of deportment for which they have always been distinguished; to which is added a charming candor of address to those properly introduced to Chilean families of high social position. But the mixed race of Spaniard and Indian, who compose three-fourths of the population of Valparaiso, of all proportions of the original blood and corresponding physique, is an inferior class to the Castilian, having a less staturealthough surpassing the Peruvian Cholo-a tawny skin, coarse features, straight black hair, and uncleanly and indolent habits. Most of this degenerate race are intensely sensual, and regardless alike of private virtue and public good faith. Degradation, profligacy, and poverty, are so palpable, that no candid chronicler can avoid the acknowledgment of their unusual existence. Were it not for the corporate regulation which designates one day in each week as "beggar day," and prohibits public alms

seeking on others, the principal promenade and chief business thoroughfare would be continually crowded with mendicants and afflicted outcasts.

There are a few excellent academies in Valparaiso for the education of the children of wealthy citizens, where, in addition to the usual branches of learning, the English and French languages-considered here necessary accomplishments—are well taught; but at greater cost than in the United States. The provision made for instruction of indigent children is meagre, and the public school system is a failure.

Only one charitable institution is worthy of mention-the city hospital. It has three hundred beds, and is dependent for support on individual contributions, no public provision being made for it. It is quite unequal to the demands made upon it for relief of the large number of afflicted and destitute. Separate hospitals for the care and treatment of British, French, and American seamen, are provided by their respective governments. The first named two being subject to the control of experienced and permanent officials, are well organized and conducted. But United States mariners are unfortunately subject to the evils of changes, corresponding to those of the home government, and having no reference whatever to considerations of competency or faithfulness.

Nearly all the physicians in successful practice in Valparaiso are of foreign birth and education, and most of them honor their profession by skill and conduct. Two pseudo-medical practitioners, having scarcely a pretence of patronage, resorted to the novelty of homoeopathic delusion to avoid starvation"whose tongues and souls in this are hypocrites." They now realize an infinitesimal subsistence of body, at the cost of a complete loss of conscience.

Most of the apothecaries are Germans; none of English or North American nationality. The reason assigned for this is, that the licentiating board of the University "require all candidates to produce diplomas of pharmacy; and as in those two countries none are issued, English and American apothecaries are not admitted to examination." They are in error; several

colleges of pharmacy are in successful operation in the United States, affording full instruction in Materia Medica, Chemistry, and Pharmacy, and conferring a graduate diploma on every student who has attended the required course of lectures, served a full practical apprenticeship, and is found qualified on a final examination.

CHAPTER XI.

A BIRLOCHO AND A BIRLOCHERO-HACIENDA PEÑUELAS-CHILEAN PIC-NIC-PLEASURE AND PAIN SANDWICHED.

EARLY on the morning of a feast day, when all business according to custom was suspended, I started in company with the United States Consul on a before-breakfast ride of twelve miles to the hacienda Peñuelas, an estate of several leagues extent. Our conveyance was a birlocho; before the introduction of stage-coaches the usual carriage for Santiago travel, and still often used on that and other roads. The birlocho is a heavy, lumbering chaise, consisting of a one seat body mounted on strong leather thorough braces attached behind to vertical semicircular steel springs, running on two large clumsy wheels, and having shafts for one horse. On the outside of the shafts another horse is attached by a strong rope to some part of the vehicle, a hook on the other end of the rope slipping into a ring of his saddle girth. The driver is mounted postilion fashion on the latter horse, and directs the movements of the birlocho either by pulling the bridle of the shaft horse, or by urging in the opposite direction the horse he-rides against the shaft, at the same time punching the neck of the shaft horse with a formidable looking whip handle. The postilion's limbs are wrapped in leather leggings; and with bandit slouch and variegated poncho, knotted raw-hide whip-so called probably from habitual enactment as well as constituents-and colossal spurs savagely serrated, the birlochero, as the postilion is called, presents-doubtless to the eyes of horses-a truly ter rific appearance.

Soon after starting we came to the conclusion, from our

bounds and rebounds, lateral inclinations, inflections, retroflexions, superpositions, and general churning, that if either of us should survive the morning ride, he would be likely, in fulfilment of Halstead's physiological theory, the offspring of a corduroy road slumber, to have "good digestion wait on appetite." For instead of climbing the Cuesta which we began to ascend just outside of the city limits, at a pace indicative of a humane regard for horse flesh, the birlochero scaled the steep ascent of one thousand four hundred and eighty feet so fast, with such recklessness of obstacles, and indifference to precipices, as showed that he had bowels of compassion for neither man nor beast. Our way was over and beyond the Sierra that overlooks the city, and like all mountain roads, this one wound with abrupt turns along the sides of acclivities, bounded on one side by overhanging cliffs, while deep ravines yawned on the other. The summit of the Sierra having been reached without death, but with the fear of it constantly before our eyes, our Jehu peon, apparently impelled by pride of superior daring and skill in horsemanship, redoubled his brutal onslaught on the poor beasts now dripping with sweat from their incessant effort; and plunging his rowels into the bloody flanks of the one, and plying his knotted thong on the flayed back and sides of the other, away he dashed, deaf to all appeals, allowing us no privilege of action but to hold on, shut our eyes to consequences, and pray for deliverance. Dr. Page's giant windmills crowning the heights, which once gave flour to California and a fortune to their proprietor, stood still, as if in mute amazement at the strange intrusion; while troops of dogs with loud-mouthed bay joined in the race, giving renewed impulse to the wild Chileno, who precipitated his flight down the descent. To have been at the mercy of winds and waves would have been a blessed fortune, but it was vain to pray for it; so awaiting impending fate, we

"Became settled, and bent up

Each corporal agent to the terrible feat."

At such a furious pace as we were going suspense was not of long duration; the plain below was soon reached, and with