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AMUSEMENTS OF THE MONTH.
gratitude I feel for your patronage at all times, and After the bustle and excitement of the late
this season especially; and be assured it will be my unprecedented season, the Haymarket, and one
honest pride and unfeigned pleasure by still uphold. or two more of the London theatres, have closed
ing the drama, and encouraging the living dramatists,
to deserve a continuance of your support. their doors, that managers and actors may snatch
"Until the 3rd of November next, when the a brief repose before entering on their winter
necessary repairs will have been completed, for campaigns. We rejoice to find that the exertions which alone we close, I most respectfully, ladies and of Mr. Webster to cater for the public have met gentlemen, bid you farewell, and wish you all health with the substantial response they deserved, as and happiness." we may gather to have been the case from the For many years past the Haymarket theatre has following address, delivered by him on the 17th | been the favourite, and the magnet of attraction ultimo:
to discriminating play-goers; and among those “Ladies and Gentlemen,- The closing of the who ought to know, it is rumoured that the apGreat Exhibition has brought our little exhibition proaching season will present many attractive to a happy issue. There the display of the industry novelties, and that the corps of arlistes engaged
I nations achieved a success as triumphant as will include great names and the most varied beyond all calculation-here we have attempted to talent. pourtray the characteristics of all time which your approval has stamped with sterling artistic value. Of the great luminary we have been one of the dis
Sadler's Wells. tant satellites, benefitting by its light and warmth, and I can assure you both myself and others of my The most striking event during the past month calling would gladly be again within its attractive at this theatre has been the engagement of Miss circle for many a similar period. As lesser things Fanny Vining, whose performance of the heroine often owe their value to the greater, our statistics in Sheridan Knowles's play of “ The Wife” has show that upwards of 160,000 persons have paid to elicited great and deserved admiration. The see the higher classes of dramatic amusements versatile talents of this excellent actress render within this building since the opening in May of the
her a great acquisition. Good standard plays, justly-named would's wonder. Therefore I and all
's and frequent novelties well brought out, sustain connected with me, are bound to earnestly exclaim,
the character of this little theatre, and draw to the honoured Prince who conceived the magnifi- ! cent project, to her gracious Majesty who encouraged genuine lovers of the drama from all parts of it, and to the smaller ceniuses who carried it out, town to its unaristocratic neighbourhood. While be all honour and glory. No terms of thanks, we write, the interesting play of “Ingomar” ladies and gentlemen, can embody the deep sense of l has been produced with great success.
FASHIONS FOR N O V E M B E R.
Early as it is in the season, a great variety of composed of velvet only, and principally of black mantelles, echarpés-mantelets, shawls, and mantles, velvet; they are rounded at the back, and descend have already appeared. They will all be worn aco, in a square form in front. The garniture is a cording as the weather permits. As the cold in- ' double row of very broad black lace. Another row creasis, the lighter envelopes will give place to, of lace of the same width encircles a small falling mantles and furs. Velvet and cloth are chiefly in collar of the shawl form, and is fixed at the bottom request for mantelets and mantes. It may be of the waist by a knot of ribbon), or an ornament of observed, that cloth will not be so fashionable passementerie. Our readers will find, in our first for them as the former material; but I have plate, one of the most elegant mantelets of a rich seen some pretty mantes composed of light grey but quiet kind that has yet appeared. cloth, and made with capuchons; the garniture is One of the new forms of mantelets that I havo a deep effilé, in two colours-that of the cloth, and reason to think will be very fashionable is a medium dark blue silk : it is beaded with an embroidery in betwcen the mantelet-visite and the paletôt; at the latter of a wreath of foliage. The effect is very present it is made in velvet only. It is a half-length striking; the garniture of the capuchon corresponds. at the back; the fronts are square: it is always Cloth mantelets are very much trimmed: some wadded, lined with silk, and has short sleeves, of with galons only; others with embroidery and moderate width. It is bordered with passementerie, galons; and several with passementerie and em- half black and half the colour of the robe. The broidery- these two last are also employed for garniture is completed by one or two rows of broad velvet mantelets. I may cite, among the prettiest, black lace at the bottom of the mantelet. those of garnet-coloured velvet, embroidered in a French Cashmeres retain their vogue; the most running pattern with silk of the same colour, and novel of these shawls are very large and square, emedged with a rich fringe to correspond. Still more broidered in silks of all colours. They appear to elegant are those of black or violet velvet, trimmed great advantage và black or grey taffeta robes, with two rows of black lace, each headed with a trimmed with very deep flounces richly embroidered natte formed of petits rouleaux of satin platted ' in silk. together; each nattc is headed with two rows of One of the new creations for the public promenade very narrow black lace, Echarpes-mantilles are and half-dress is the basquine moldo Valaque. lo truth, there is nothing novel in this basquine but , mantles in half-dress, as the material could not be its name ; for it is closely copied from the Amazones worn in it without deep and rich garnitures embroiof Louis Quinze time, or the just-au-corps à la dered in silk and cordonnet, and accompanied by Fronsac, with the exception of the sleeves, which are franges torses; these last add much to the effect of of the pagoda form. Five rows of very small the folds, in causing them to fall more gracefully. boutons à la Grecque, put close to each other, add I may cite among the most distingué of the new to its Oriental style. The first goes down the front, | mantles those of velvet, with splendid garnitures of and serves to close the basquine from top to bottom, lace. These, though very wide, do not resemble the if desired; two others cover the two pockets on the burnous, though they fall in full folds a three-quarter hips. The two last row's have a space between them length at the back, descending square in front; they of about a hand's breath; they part from the waist, are made with broad revers falling over the shoulders and descend to the bottom of the basques. An em- in such a manner that the lace, or fringes encircling broidered velvet or satin gilet has an admirable them, float gracefully on the arm. Deep fringes effect with one of these basquines.
composed of chenille, and others of silk iuter Mantles are, I think, likely to be very much in mingled with bugles, are sometimes employed infavour this winter; those of cloth will continue their stead of lace, and give the mantle quite a Spanish vogue not only in simple négligé, but in half-dress, appearance. with a different style of trimming for the latter. I Velvet, rclours épinglé satin, and different kinds inay cite for the first, the Talma; it is revived, but of rich fancy silks and satins, will be einployed for with some alterations in the form ; it is wider, falls chapeaux and capotes. The mode or employing in deeper folds behind, and is pointed in front. The two different materials of the same colour for a colours are dark green, deep blue, maroon, and dif- chapeau or capote is revived, and is likely to be ferent shades of grey: they are wadded, and lined very predominant. I need not speak of the shapes, with silk. One of the most comfortable of the cloth as our plates will show them as they are at present. mantles has the singular name of Saphir ; it is a Some of the most remarkable of the chapeaux, comthree-quarter length, made with sleeves, and sits posed of two materials, have the crowa composed of closer bebind than most of the others. The garni- velvet, alternating with rouleaux of satin ; the brim ture is of cloth, cut out in a novel kind of pattern, is formed of three petit rolants of satin ribbon, and which, as it is laid on the mantle, shew's the cloth entre deux of velvet; the edge of the brim is lightly underneath. A very small soutache edges all the turned up, the sides are very open; the interior contours of the pattern. This trimming, though of|and exterior are bordered with a petit volant of satin a very quiet kind, is both novel and tasteful.
ribbon; the brides are of the same colour as the A new mantle, that will no doubt, as the season | volants, but very broad. A heron plume drooping advances, entirely replace both the witschoura and on one side completes the trimming the original burnous, is called the burnous Talma ; Some of the most elegant public proinenade chait is composed of chiné tigré cloth, a material of an | peaux are composed of blue or violet velvet ; the extremely soft and warm kind, novel in appearance, crown is trimmed with two folds, arranged à la and draping admirably. This mantle is of a round | Marie Stuart; a tuft of short, shaded feathers is form, made with a capuchin, from which two placed on each side. Narrow blonde lace, quilled glands Algeriens depend; it is wadded, lined within the car style, decorates the interior of the brim. silk, and trimmcd round with broad bands of black Small light sprigs of flowers are intermixed with the velvet ribbon glacés. It is not yet possible to say lace, and droop lightly from it. A full shade of what form will be predominant for manties, or in rose colour is much in favour for chapeaur. fact whether any will. Those that have already several are trimmed with black lace, others with a appeared offer great variety. Some are very short mixture of black lace and bugles; the latter of the and close fitting, others very wide ; some are smallest possible size. Some with satin crowns and trimmed in a siniple style, while many of the same relours épinglé brims, have the crown decorated material lave splendid garnitures. One point is with an ornament composed of four rows of narrow indispensable, the inantle and the robe must accord black lace, and rose-coloured effilés, equally nar. 80 far, that if the one is richly trimmed, the other row, drooping on the brim; the interior is decorated must be so too, and vice versa.
with a mixture of black lace quilled, and roseSeveral half-dress mantles composed of cloth coloured effilés. Two large coques of rose-coloured differ very little in their forms from those of last satin ribbon, with short ends, descend from each year, but there is a good deal of novelty in their side of the crown; brides of the same hue, very trimmings. The most dressy are embroidered in long and wide, complete the garniture. soie demi torse, or else ornamented with rich passe- Light green satin capotes, decorated with narrow menterie, and very deep effilé.
black velvet ribbon, will be very fashionable for the The forms of some mantles that have just ap- promenade ; they are formed of four rows of flat peared resemble very much those of the manteaux | bouillonné, divided by three bands of black velret; espagnols of the sixteenth century, and of the court the bavolet, full and rather deep, is edged with black of the Valois; their cut, their width, the arrange velvet; the interioris trimmed with tufts of geranium. ment of their folds, falling on the arm in such a | A knot, composed of green satin ribbon and black manner as to form a sleeve, are evidently copied velvet, decorates the exterior. Black lace is a good from the portraits of those days. They are com- deal employed for trimming velvet chapeaux of a posed of cloth, velvet, silks of a very rich kind; and dark colour. Some of violet, or ponceau velset, some for demi-toilette in drap-cachemire. The have the lace lightly sprinkled with a few jet beads colours are various shades of grey, felt colour, pain of the smallest size passed round the crown, and atbrûlé, and other dark hues. The linings are of tached on one side only by a knot of velvet ribbons deep blue, violet, or ponceau taffeta. A falling of different widths; long ends float from the knot collar descends gracefully on the shoulders. The upon the shoulder. A tuft of têtes de plumes, trimmings are extremely rich; they consist of em- shaded in black and green, is placed on the other broideries, galons encircling every part of the side; the interior is decorated with velvet ponsées, mantle. Rich trimmings are indispensable for cloth with yellow hearts, attached by coques of velours
épinglé ribbons corresponding with the hearts of the flowers imitating velours épinglé, are intended for flowers. Several chapeaux are trimmed with rib- evening robes. Brocatelle palmier is for full-dress; bon composed of silk and velvet plaided in striking but taffetas are not yet dethroned, nor are they likely colours. It is not possible yet to say how far this to be for some time. Some have recently appeared style may become fashionable, but I think it is too in grey, violet, and maroon: the first, glacé de elowy to be elegant.
blanc; the other, noir. They are trimined with I shall cite, from among the most remarkable of flounces; each Aounce bordered with two stripes of the demi-toilette capotes, some of lemon-coloured a different and strongly contrasted colour. The corsatin, trimmed with velours vapeur; the trimming sages and sleeves are bordered to correspond. The descends from the crown on the brim in a fall of damas jeune has the skirt trimmed with three ornaments of a novel form ; the interior of the briin flounces, bordered with wreaths of flowers. The is trimmed with blonde lace lightly intermixed with damas mousse is very novel : it is a shaded and very small yellow velvet flowers, floating brides of broché silk, with a glacé ground. Moires are exvelours vapéur completing the garniture. Laurel | pected to be very fashionable; and so are satins, green is a favourite colour for chapeaux and capotes; though they have for some time past been little in some of the latter have satin crowns and velours favour. The new ones are of a very rich kind . épinglé brims; puffs of black lace encircle the particularly the fancy satins. crown, and chutes of ribbon and velvet intermingled There is, as yet, little novelty in the forms of droop from cach side. The interior of the brim is robes; nor do I think there will be much. Tho very tastefully decorated with a wreath composed of corsage veste worn with a gilet is now called white and scarlet poppies mingice with ribbon. Corsage Louis XIII; but there is no alteration in Sereral plain velvet cupotes are of garnet-colour, its form : it is always made separate from the skirt, the brim is rather long, and is bordered at the edge and is adopted in homne toilettes, for the public proand at the bottom of the crown with a trimming of menade, and half-dress-the material, the trimming, black lace mingled with verry varrow velvet ribbon; and the gilet differing according to its destination. an appret descending behind on the barolet forms A basquine is always indispensable with these corthe only additional ornament of the exterior. The suges, but it may be worn without a gilet, for when interior is decorated by a bouquet of blue flowers, buttoned from top to bottom it is a corsage encircled with foliage.
Amazone; but it is more frequently open. A A capote that has recently appeared at a concert superb robe, of this form, that has just been foris composed of blonde coquillée; the edge is of tulle warder to a foreign court, is composed of blue illusion, decorated with a wreath of green velvet-velvet; the corsage bordered with a wreath of foliage foliage, which is continued serpentining over the in black velvet, and blue satin. The gilet was of barolet, and encircling the bottom of the crown; a the small shawl form, embroidered with rich Oriental deep blonde, which falls over the wreath, serves as patterns enlaced in Armenien arabesques, also of a second barolet. This capote has been much ad-silver. The buttons were in brilliants and pearls. mired; it is one of the most novel that I have seen. The entire of the skirt was embroidered with foliage, Chapeaux seem likely to be adopted in dinner-dress. arabesques, and flowers in black velvet-the effect I may cite, among the most elegant, one composed was equally novel and magnificent. of white vclours épinglé and satin: the crown is ! Trish poplin robes are fashionable in half-dress; formed of three bouillons of the two materials al- some blue, or violet ones, have the front of the skirt ternately; they are divided by small satin rouleaus. ornamented with three montants of black velvetThe brim is of velours épinglé laid plain, and or ribbon, about two inches broad; two wreathes of namented by a superb white plume, passing from roses of a small size are lightly embroidered in black the right to the left: knots of rose-coloured velours silk between the montants. The round of the corépinglé and white satin decorate the interior of the sage and sleeves are worked to correspond, and a brim; they are surinounted by scalloped blonde, small bouquet is worked in the upper part of the laid fiat round the interior of the brim.
sleeve. This style of trimming is at once rich and Cloth, popeline de laine, and some other ser quiet. Some satin dresses, trimmed with four viceable woollen materials, will be adopted for plain flounces, has each flounce bordered with a broad promenade robes. Popeline de lainc is intended stripe of plaided velvet woven in the material. to replace merinos. Cloth will be adopted, not only These dresses are all made high, and the stripes are so in plain but in elegant promenade dress, according disposed that the corsage, sleeves, and basquines are to the manner in which it is trimmed. The colours bordered with them. Another novelty, of a very are dark green, pain brulé, maroon, and black. rich kind, also made with a high corsage, is comThe same colours are adopted for the public pro- | posed of dark blue satin, with a pattern in velvet of menade; but the robe must be embroidered in soie the same colour, forming a tablier. demi-torse, or galon, or soutache. If the corsage The négligé du soir will continue in evening dress is made high and close, the centre of it, and also offor some time. The materials of rohes have varied the skirt, should be embroidered. Another style little, except that taffetas are gradually displacing that will be in favour both for the promenade and the lighter summer materials. The corsage Louis home dress, is, to have the corsage only worked, Quinze is still the favourite. The splendid mateand open all down the front, shewing a silk gilet of rials that are appearing for evening robes will not the colour of the robe. This may be rendered be immediately brought forward. It doos not apdressy by the buttons and embroidery; but in general pear likely that any great change will take place in it is of a rich plain kind. Cloth mantelets, trimmed the forms of robes. There is nothing settled posiin a quiet way, may be worn in plain walking-dress tively about trimmings. Flounces are expected to with robes of the same, or with those of popeline de remain in vogue, and it seems certain that lace will laine, or any other of the new woollen materials. Le very much employed. There are also some new
Gros d'Espagne, Irish poplin, reps, damas jeune, kinds of passementerie, but we know that nothing and damas mousse will be in request for public pro- will be decided for some weeks to come. menade robes, and may be worn in half-dress. I refer my readers to the first plate for some Gros de Tours droguets, reps, with lozenges and pretty models of caps in home dress : they continue
to be made short at the ears, and 'rather volu- | body. Short sleeve, finished at the bottom by two minously trimmed. Those with floating lappets are bands of quilled ribbon. Cambric under-sleeves in a majority. No. 4, in our first plate, is one of the confined by bands at the wrists. Cambric chemi. latest models of that style. The Marie Stuart form sette, made quite high. Pantaloons of the same, is much in favour in half-dress ; so are the petites finished with worked flounces. Fanchons Espagnoles, composed of inaize and azure No. 6. MORNING CAP.-Of spotted muslin, very blue velvet quadrilled, bordered with scallopped full trimmed with embroidered borders and rose blonde, and narrow black lace, and trimmed in front ribbon. with knots of azure blue satin mingled with velvet. ! Nos. 7. and 8.- New Patterns of EMBROIDERED Nothing can be prettier for young married ladies Sleeves. than the Fanchonnettes, with long lace la ppets at
SECOND PLATE. the sides, pointed behind, and trimmed with tuits of white or rose ribbon.
CARRIAGE DRESS. — Chocolate-coloured gros Flowers will be profusely employed for coiffures d'Espagne robe; the corsage, quite high and close, and for trimming ball-robes. I cannot yet say what descends in a rounded point, and is trimmed with a flowers will be most fashionable. We have several revers embroidered in soie torse of the same colour. new ones; one of these, the rose Cristata, will cer- | The revers is lightly festooned round the edge, and tainly enjoy the honours of the season : it is indeed, the centre of the corsage is embroidered in a full gerbe a splendid flower. Peathers and rich ribbons will of foliage also in the hue of the robe. Sleeves of be more employed for the exterior of chapeaux than the demi-pagoda form, worked round the bottom flowers, but the latter will still be used for the in- in a wreath of very small foliage to correspond terior of the brims: they are now composed of rel- with the revers ; cambric under-sleeves. Two deep vet, or the beards of feathers. Several fancy flounces festooned at the borders encircle the skirt. feathers have appeared for chapeaux ; the plumes White satin capote, a moderately close shape, drawn écossaisses are among the most novel. The plumes in close runners. The interior is trimmed with neige, which have scarcely yet been seen, are of a small white flowers, intermixed with foliage, and . lighter and more graceful skind, and will be very white brides ; the exterior, with a white plume. much in vogue.
Burnous Talma of silver-grey cashmere, lined with white satin; it is not quite a three-quarter length,
cut bias, so as to be moderately wide round the DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. neck and shoulders, descending in ample folds. A
pelerine en caur forms the shape very gracefully, FIRST PLATE.
and is closed in front by fancy-silk buttons and cord.
Two rows of effilé encircle the pelerine; three roms CARRIAGE DRESS.-Gros d'Espagné robe, of a bright shade of lavender; the corsage high at the back,
of flat fancy trimming go round the bottom of the
cloak. and very open on the bosom, with a revers of two festooned falls, and a small basquine terminated on
| DINNER DRESS. - Blue taffeta robe; corsage suite. Sleeves rather more than a three-quarter
veste, high at the back, very open on the boson length, moderately wide at the bottom, and termi
at the upper part, and shewing a little of a white
silk gilet, which closes at the chest, and denated by festoons. Embroidered chemisette; lace ruffles. Lilac satin chapeau, a very open shape, the
scends a little below the waist. The embroidered interior lined with white satin, and very full trimmed
revers of the corsage terminates at the waist ; but at the sides with tufts of small white and red roses,
the embroidery encircles the basquine, which is intermixed with ornamental grasses and whitə
moderately deep, and rounded in front. Sleeve
Henri III., a three-quarter length, open to the brides; the exterior with white and lilac-shaded
elbow, and embroidered to correspond with the plumes. Caslımere shawl. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Robe of one of
revers; lace under-sleeves and chemisette. The
skirt is trimmed with three embroidered flounces, so the new winter silks; a grey ground broché en noir ;
disposed as to appear like three skirts. A round of Corsage Amazone. Sleeves a three-quarter length,
Jace encircles the knot of hair at the back of tbe of the demi-pagoda form. The corsage and sleeves
head, in the style of a cap front; the garniture is are trimmed with black velvet, and the skirt with a
composed of autumnal flowers, and a sprig of light tablier composed of two broad bands of velvet on each side. Cambric under-sleeves; small cambric
green foliage issuing from under the lace on ond collar, edged with Valenciennes lace. Blue velvet
side, and a knot and ends of white ribbon on the chapeau, a moderately close shape, and rather long
other. brim. The garniture is composed of satin rouleau.r and black lace on the exterior. White flowers, lace,
Preparing for Publication. and blue brides decorate the interior. Cashmere A beautifully illustrated work on the “ Parabica Mantelet à Chale, bordered with a very broad rich of our Saviour," is announced for publication by fringe.
Mr. Mitchell, of Bond Street, on the first of DecemYOUNG LADY'S DRESS, FASHIONABLE CAPS, &c. ber next. The designs are by Franklin, and the
No. 3. HOME DINNER CAP.-Of English lace, engravings (in line) by Lightfoot, Joubert, Watt, trimmed with knots and coques of intermingled Goodall, Nusser, of Dusseldorff, and Blanchard, of green and fawn-coloured ribbon, and floating lace Paris. The text of the several Parables engraved lappets.
throughout by Becker. Size of the volume, quarto No. 4. HOME CAP.-Of sprigged tulle, a round | imperial; and proofs on half-sheet imperial. caul, bordered with Valenciennes lace, and profusely trimmed with blue and fawn-coloured ribbon.
TO CORRESPONDENTS. No. 5. YOUNG LADY'S DRESS.-Frock of green taffeta broché, a low body, opening to the waist, the
ACCEPTED.-A. S. opening crossed by bands of quilled ribbon. The
DECLINED WITH THANKS.–V. T.; S. shoulders and back are trimmed with the same, as is also the short round jacket that terminates the Printed by Joseph Rogerson, 246, Strand, London.