Imagens das páginas

Fal. My lord—my lord- — [Bursts into tears. | contribute very respectably to these), they are

Wil. Oh, trust me, the day shall come, when the main support of the wholesome cheap literamen will feel that it is not charity we owe to the ture; they write two-thirds of the fiction ; and ennoblers of life—it is tribute ! When your Order have the class of juvenile literature almost to shall rise with the civilisation it called into being ; and, amidst an assembly of all that is lofty and fáir themselves. They are in every respect the most in the chivalry of birth, it shall refer its claim to suffering class I have ever known except Goverjust rank among freemen, to some Queen whom nesses - and I say so very positively, from even a Milton might have sung, and even a Hamp- having had peculiar opportunities of knowing den have died for.

them-and seeing them as no man could see Fal. O dream of my youth! My heart swells them. They work hard, and are ill paid ; often and chokes me!

denied the just fame which might lead to golden Lord Wilmot is acted by Mr. Dickens with results, because the "anonymous” does not be. the hunour and pathos that draw tears and casual reader, be thought too weak for its

tray the sex when a woman's pen would, to the laughter from the audience. The play as a theme; subject still in some measure to that composition does honour even to its gifted author; its wit is all genial—its sentiment all derly and untidy, with neglected hair and inky

unjust prejudice which represents them as disorhealthy. In conclusion we have a few observations to different to domestic happiness. Why as a rule

fingers-regardless of domestic duties, and inmake, and we do it as a suggestion, and with a consciousness that ours may be something of a

they—all but the pretenders-are the most wo

- loving simple class feeling. We could have wished that the manly women in the world founders of the Guild would have been a little pleasures-finding out the hollowness of fame more explicit as to the aid they purpose bestov- them so little happiness); incorruptible in their

sooner than the sterner sex, (for it can give ing on Female Authors. If they are to be ranked, duties, frugal, prudent, but generally of sad as we surmise, as Associates only, it would have perhaps been well to state this distinctly. moral qualities, which give the impulse to their

experiences, gaining power chiefly from their Doubtless they will be deeply grateful for the intellect, knowing sadly that if they have a aid afforded them; but unless we are infinitely

“ cell less in the brain" than man, they have a mistaken, the applicants—and these just claimants

“ fibre more in the heart;" and when they write --will be very numerous. It would probably be speaking within the mark to say that hall the wisely, as is so often the case, it is because working authors of England are women. If “They learn in suffering what they teach in song !" they do not write so much as men in newspapers and first-class reviews (though they do

C. C.

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an eminence of upwards of seventy feet above the stream, the landscape before you is ex

tremely beautiful. From among the blue hills Like a youth, full of freshness and freedom, which throng the distance comes the river which breaking, with whirl and eddies and flashing, shines below, where its rapid water in shadows from his home in the mountains, rushes the multiform reflect the houses of the town upon Rhine by Basle, ere in the majestic course of its its margin, and the graceful and luxuriant manhood it gives back the castles and the vine- foliage overhanging its wares ; here it is crossed yards of the Saxon land.

by a timber bridge, built on stone piers, con Looking from the terrace behind the cathedral, I necting the town, which lies on either side of

the Rhine, but principally on the left bank. / which we soon overtook, our journey was conAfter a full enjoyment of the scene, heightened tinued for some time upon the left bank of the in its loveliness by the delicate light of early Rhine, the waters of which almost continuously, morning, and a glance at the exterior of the old in conjunction with the surrounding scenery, cathedral, built with dark chocolate-coloured presented remarkably fine views. Oftentimes sandstone, and adorned with two tapering and upon our way our attention was arrested by the elegant spires ; and after an ineffectual attempt large frame-work raised above the farm-houses to gain admission to its interesting interior, con- for the stork to come and build in; this we obtaining, amongst other objects, the tomb of served, in repeated instances, was occupied by Erasmus, I returned back into the picturesque its treasured tenant; and once we noticed a yet clean streets. In the Fischmarket- in the completed nest raised above the vane of a vilcentre of which stands the Gothic Fountain, lage steeple, in which one of these birds of good casting forth clear streams of water from its tra- omen was standing erect, flapping his broad ceried structure, adorned with statues of the wings in the sun, a most singular and interestVirgin and Child, John and Peter, and several ing object. At Rheinfelden, a small town where others--there was, indeed, a bustling and cha- we changed horses, we met with another speracteristic scene: peasants were arranging their cimen of that ornament to the towns of Switzerstores for the coming market; some were busily | land, the brunnen, or fountain ; in this instance employed in unloading the most picturesquely, the column was surmounted by a statue of a constructed carts imaginable of the produce of warrior, bearing a lance in his hand, carved in the garden; bere hurried a group of chattering stone. Passing from hence, we arrived soon bare-footed damsels, in short kirtles; on their after noon at Stein, a mere village, where the broal, slouching hats, carrying crates of poultry, diligence rested half an hour for the passengers seemingly by their unceasing cries emulatory of to dine. Here a most meagre repast was set the conversational powers of their bearers; there before us, with a most ludicrous attempt at distripped along some maiden, with the yoke upon play, On again taking to our route, I was forher shoulders, bringing in capacious shining tunate in obtaining a seat on the box of one of pails, the produce of the dairy; all contributing the supplementary carriages by the side of the to produce, by diversity of figure and costume, driver, à rough, yet not altogether uncout a most lively and entertaining picture.

youth, bedizened with a waistcoat of red plush, Some time before noon I was waiting, with a jacket of bright blue coarse cloth, a steeplequite a congregation of travellers, several of crowned drab hat, with some sun-scorched rewhom were English, the departure of the dili-mains of bouquets in its band, his certainly naif gence for Baden.

A general sensation was visage set off with the down of a moustache. I ain created when the jingle of the horses' bells inclined to think that the artist would have congreeted our ears ; and when the cumbrous sidered him far from picturesque. On first leavvehicle

, which has previously been packed with ing the village, I think our vehicle bid fair to be the luggage in the court-yard, made its appear- pre-eminent as carrying the liveliest, perhaps the ance in the streets, there was a unanimous and noisiest, party, in the train of passenger to simultaneous “rush” for the vacant places. Zurich that day. Much of this mirth was But this is now how they load a diligence in created by the not very encomiastic remarks Switzerland : : a speedy retreat was made before made upon our late repast by a very tall and the person of a little red-faced elderly gentle- very loquacious gentleman, whose countenance man, who with frantic gesture, and with the aid and deportment once seen would not be very of a large book which he carried in his hand, speedily forgotten. He wore a high purple consigned, according to the respective number velvet cap, elaborately embroidered with beads of their tickets, each passenger to his destined of every shade and hue; this added not a little place

. The diligence being speedily occupied, to his most striking physiognomy, which, when and still many with tickets unprovided for, other en repos, reminded me very forcibly of the porvehicles were soon in attendance. As one of traits of Charles I. ; the aquiline nose, the methe overplus, I found that my billet brought me lancholy, thoughtful eye, the long, piked beard. a seat in a low, small, old-fashioned-covered car- But when, after a momentary pause, resuming riage ; judging from the mouldy and antique the conversation, his countenance lit up,


eye appearance of which, one is led to imagine that sparkled; in the gusto of the application showeither

supernumerary carriages are seldom called ering a very tempest of snuff over his fine beard, into requisition at Basle, or that the “ spirited” away went the vision of the mournful monarch, proprietors of the Bureau de Diligence are ex- giving place to the most jovial of expressions tremely fond of relics. With four others, two that ever trembled under the sallies of the wildof them my countrymen, taking my place in this est laughter. Of any temporary cessation of most ludicrous conveyance, the driver jumped the merriment of the party our driver seemed to to his seat, and with loud cracking of his whip, avail himself for the display of his vocal powers, in and a volley of imprecations most voluble, drove snatches and fragments of song, or for the puroff at a furious rate, jolting and rattling as pose of urging, with cracking whip and thunders though it would break our crazy conveyance of imprecation, the flagging horses


upinto a thousand fragments, through the un. ward way. Continuing thus for a time, at even streets. Passing under the turret-guarded length, under the influence of the extreme heat gates of the town, in the route of the diligence, of the sun, the whole party lapsed into most



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moody silence, which alone was intruded upon object of interest upon the route. Witless he by the roll of the vehicles, or the monotonous of those fine lines and of their truthjingle of the horses' bells. Still rising on successive elevations lay our journey, often com

“ Who first beholds those everlasting clouds, pelling us to alight and walk by the side of our carriage up the dusty road. After passing the Those mighty hills so shadowy, so sublime, village of Effingen, the road is carried over the As rather to belong to heaven than earthBotsberg, at the top of which, said one of our

But instantly receives into his soul fellow-travellers, we shall see the Alps. The

A sense, a feeling that he loses not,

A something that informs him 'tis an hour effect of this announcement was immediately

Whence he may date henceforward and for ever?" perceptible; everyone seemed to bestir himself, as for some coming event ; the likeness of In a few more moments and we were hurry: Charles I., with loud exclamations, awoke his ing through clouds of dust down the rapid lady, who was fast asleep in the corner of the car- descent of the bill, and the beautiful landscape riage ; and even our Jehu, who had only peeped of wide campaign and snowy mountain sum. up at intervals from his last hour-and-a-half's mits had passed away. I have written passed doze, seemed, upon a sudden impulse, to deem away; but no, it can never pass away. From it necessary to pour forth his set vocabulary of that moment I had learnt a new and fresh form vituperation upon the horses, in chorus with his of beauty; from that moment another glorious whip-lash.

picture was given unto the gallery of memory, The hill-top—the dust rises in columns before for the mind's eye in the future to look back the fresh breeze, obliging us to guard our eyes. and luxuriate upon. Since then I have seen The diligence has pulled up, and the vehicles many finer prospects of mountain scenery; but behind us are hastening up the hill. Every one of none do I retain a more lasting and vivid talking - every one exclaiming. How one wishes reininiscence than of this first sight of the they would be quiet while they gaze. Away the Alps. columns of white dust go sweeping down the Still descending rapidly. Oftentimes saluted, way we have climbed up. The air is clear, and or rather assailed, by hands of Handswerkswarm and balmy; would that I could give you bursche, or “wandering journeymen of Gersome idea of the glorious scene which we be many." Groups of these youth we repeatedly held-beholding, with a half-fear, it seemed somet, coming up the hill, with knapsack on back, dream-like, so unlasting, so wondrous to be and blouse and staff; while distant we could real. Shadows and golden lights moved over hear their voices united in song, or ringing with the green meadow of the wide landscape below; laughter. It was not a little amusing to watch like tracks of quicksilver, the streams shone their change of demeanour on coming up with here and there wood, village and hamlet- the diligence or carriages ; off went their hats steeple, and more distant spires of Brugg, slept on assuming a supplicatory air, and turning in the dreamy baze of the summer afternoon; back, they would run after us through the dust while beyond arose the ranges, tier above tier of with loud and earnest solicitations to “help dim blue solemn hills, and over these a vision them on their way.” Immediately upon this which the eye, new-seeing, scarce can compre- being responded to, which more than once it hend; an ocean of angry waves, frozen in bil. was liberally, the role of the beggar was cast lows of brightness, is its shape-in hue (the aside, the scarcely-concealed smile, which had nearest approximation to a comparison that I peeped out of the corners of the assumed gravity have met with), of mother-of-peal. So dazzling once or twice, held full sway of the young and do they rise, that an undue darkness is given to healthy face; and continuing our journey, we the subject hills in the foreground below. The could catch the refrain of their blended voices clouds, which dapple the azure sky overhead, as they tramped upon their way. This ramextending down and congregating on their sum- bling," says Howitt's Domestic Life of Germits of unchanging snow, linking them to the

many, “all over the country of such numbers hemisphere above, a shining luminous stair, of these young men, in every part and in every unto the gates of light, bringing a sense of direction, is not so much a matter of choice as awful solitudes and stillness, broken only by the necessity; for three or more years after the exwailing storm or the thunders of the avalanche; piration of their apprenticeship, they must thus of untrodden regions inaccessible, where the pursue their travels, and on their return must hail and the snow and the sunbeams only pass, give evidence of having become perfect in their afar, in radiant glory, which it is not in words calling, by making their meisterstück, or masterto tell of or describe

piece, before they can obtain permission to enter

on business for themselves.” “the Alpine summits rise Height o'er height stupendous hurl'd;

On our arrival at Brugg, a town of much anLike the pillars of the skies

tiquity, surrounded by walls, the gates by which Like the ramparts of the world.”

we entered being guarded by old stone towers

with pointed roofs, the conveyances were “ Monsieur, les Alpes !” said the driver at my changed, and I had to take my place in the roside, with an indicative jerk of his whip, as tonde of a diligence. What we saw of the town though the glorious scene which thrilled the in passing through, fell short of our anticipaheart and moistened the eye, was but a trifling tions from the picturesque appearance of its

walls and towers seen in the distant landscape with you. Passing over one of these bridges when approaching. Brugg is noted as the birth-through the narrow suburban streets of the place of Zimmermann. Leaving, by gates of town, I walked up the road which runs along similar character to those by which we had the east or right margin of the lake. On the entered, the dust became so intolerable, that right hand low marshy meadows extend down notwithstanding the intense heat, we were com- , to the waters; whilst on the left, situated in their pelled to have all the windows of the diligence luxuriant gardens, the villas of the wealthy ones closed, so obtaining but limited views of the of Zurich are interspersed along the way. The scenery through which we were travelling; the view of the lake, with the distant mountains, glimpses of the distant hills, and the near, from this road, was very lovely. The mists of rerdure-clad slopes, causing one to repine most the evening almost reled the scenery immelongingly for an outside place and fresh air. A diately on the other side of the lake; wliile the ride of four or five miles brought us to Baden, ashy summits of the Alps seemed sailing in the where cornmences the (at present) only Swiss air; and above them, given back by the mirror line of railway. Taking our place in one of the below, shone the thin crescent of the summe: open third-class carriages, the patois of the moon. Solitude lent an unexpressible charm to peasantry, with which the carriage was filled, at this sweet landscape ; scarcely a sound ruffled once told us that we had entered into another the stillness of the air, only at intervals the district, as also did the contour of the surround-plash of the oar from some solitary boat, or the ing countenances, as well as the costume-the low ripple of the water in the reeds. How high steeple-crowned hat, the prevalence of the phantom-like and wondrous are the Alps at long grey coat, or the “cut-off” of bright night, above the low curling mists, where the brown. The line of railway runs along the val stars are shining clear! ley of the Limmat, the waters of which stream It was quite dark when I hurried back into flowing from the lake of Zurich run into the the streets of the town. Over these, and over dar, near the town of Brugg. When we reach the bridges, dim oil lamps were suspended by Zurich in the early evening, the narrow streets, cords. In one narrow, gloomy place, a group With orerhanging houses, with groups of people of young men were singing from books, by the and children seated or playing in the shadow by aid of a lantern, underneath a lighted casement. their door, presented most charming pictures; In a few minutes the serenade was over, the and wlien we emerged from these upon the taper of the lantern blown out, and the singers wide promenades on the banks of the river dispersed several ways. Soon after I could hear which runs through the centre of the town, the the roll of the drums, from the patrol, through riew was beautiful beyond description. Fa-, the solitary streets. tigued with the journey of the day and its excite- On my arrival at Zurich, I had found, to my ments, I sought the Schwerdt hotel, seated at mortification, that on account of my passport the open window of which the glory of the scene not having received the Austrian visé, I could lulled me almost into forgetfulness of fatigue not continue the route I had proposed to myand hunger, until the footsteps of the day had / self; and on inquiry at the bureau, I could oh. fleeted from the far-off snows. At the edge of tain but little information, the officials at which the pathway below the window ran the Limmat, held out the possibility of my obtaining the respanned by its elegant wooden bridges; on the quired signature at Lucerne; so I at once left hand on the opposite side of the river, rose resolved to proceed to Lucerne by the Rhigi. the dark spires of the cathedral against the At an early hour the following morning, evening sky; on the right the picture was when I went on board the little steamer lying at bounded by the tall old houses of the street; the quay, I found it already crowded with pasbeyond, and in front, lay the blue waters of the sengers, the fore-part particularly so, with lake, clear and shining as the bright sky over- peasantry, pilgrims from different cantons, on head, and dotted over and animated by white their way to the miracle-working abbey of Einsails or pleasure-boats flitting over the surface siedeln, in canton Schweiz. The voyage of of its glossy bosom. The view was closed in about eight miles to Horgen, a small village on by a range of the Alps; which as the scene be- the left bank of the lake, under the aspect of the low was losing colour, became more luminous bright summer weather, was very delightful. and transparent, passing from primrose hues to The country immediately around the lake parexquisite roseate tints; the glaciers and the takes more of the beautiful than the grand, the snowy steeps glowing like a pile of crumpled mountains around not being of very considerose-leaves; then from a new change of tyrian rable height, but luxuriant in waving wood and royalty dying into utter paleness, their vast pasture land, and dotted over everywhere with steeps towered into the purpling evening, ghastly white villas, manufactories, mills, hamlets, and and solemn as death.

spires; but beyond, and over the summit of the If you would see how swift the waters of these near hills, giving a grandeur to the scene, rise lake-rivers flow, you must stand upon one of the snowy heads of the Glarnisch, the Sentis, the bridges, which are but a few feet above the and the Dodi. With the morning sun lighting current. Looking down where the stream up their glaciers with silvery brightness, it is comes roaring and flashing underneath your scarcely possible to gaze up to them for any feet, so swift and rushing is its course, that it length of time with the naked eye. With a presents the illusion of the bridge moving away telescope, you may discover from the steamer, as

you sail along, the glaciers coiling their white, are not an inside passenger in the “bus;" not ridges down the mountain sides. A few minutes' | alone for the grateful fruit, but for the fresh air walk from the bank of the lake brought us to and sunshine, the elevation above the dust, and Horgen, where an oinnibus waited for passen- the grand prospect of inountain and lake which gers to the Rhigi, via Arth. Again awarded a await you every portion of the way. On applace in a supernuinerary-in this case a box- proaching Arth, the road winds under the Rossseat on an old-fashioned barouch-I obtained berg, the ridge of which mountain is a close excellent views upon our way, which, on leaving boundary along the left-hand side of the road Horgen, continues over an extreme shoulder of from Zug to Arth. At Arth we remained to the Albis ridge, arriving at the summit of which | dine-not a wise proceeding, you will say, prea fine view is presented of the lake and town of paratory to a predestrian effort. As it was, our Zurich. Much of the journey presented the ap- meal was at best but a luncheon, and that of a pearance of most lawn-like slopes, where, in most meagle character, from the soup down to many instances, the haymakers were busy at the little hard specimens of confectionary. After work. A rapid descent brought us into the this refreshment I started with a guide whom I green valley of the Sihl, where, after passing had engaged to carry my knapsack. Crossing through the village of Sihllrücke, by the bridge through two or three meadows, leaving Goldau which you cross over the stream, you leave the on our left, the ascent commenced immediately. canton Zurich for canton Zug. Here, shortly | After a smart walk, or rather scramble, under after, commences another ridge, the view from the the low hanging boughs, up the rugged side of top of which, when reached, repays fully the the hill we came, by a turn, suddenly upon the delay and toil of the ascent. Below you, on last thing one would have expected to have met the margin of its lake, enclosed in its stone walls, in such a place. Situated on the hill-side, emlies the quaint-looking town of Brug. On the bowered in the trees, a public-house, and aropposite side of the lake, the precipitous sides ranged on the limited space of ground outside of the Rhigi Berg rise up sheer from the lake, were tables, benches, and chairs, “and all ap. on this side almost free from foliage, and brown, pliances and means to boot," for a thorough sterile, and wild in aspect. Beyond this, in the carousal. Here some of our companions of the distance, tower the dark, ragged summits of omnibus, who had preceded us, were indulging the Pilatus. On this occasion it was entirely in the good things which the house afforded ; free from the cap of storm-clouds with which it kirshwacher, limonade-gazeuse, and beer. Of is usually said to be crowned. According to the first-named, the only compound I tasted, and tradition, this mountain takes its name from that from curiosity, it being a beverage of the Pilate, the governor of Judea, who is said to country—not from any need of refreshment, have drowned himself in a lake on its suminit, left with a very bad opinion, it being to me from whose perturbed spirit (of course) arise exceedingly unpalatable : I can compare it to all those storms which curl and break about the nothing save intensely-sweetened and remarkably brows of old Pilatus. Here, as in many other bad gin. It is made from cherries. For a few haunts of tradition, the prosaic searchers have minutes resting on the certainly not very reposebeen, and have attempted to drive the spirit from inviting seats, for looking over the rude plank her abiding place. It is stated that, from its pe- back, beneath you could track along under the culiar position, it collects the clouds and va- precipice your way up, we enjoyed the view ol pours which sail over the plains from the north the increasing landscape before us; but the and west. In front, nearer to the spectator, on smoke from the pipes of our German friends not the left hand, is the rugged form of the Ross- seeming to assimilate with, much more improve berg. After a somewhat rapid descent, we rode the fresh air of the mountains, we speedily rethrough a succession of orchards and meadows sumed our walk. Continuing up the precipitous into Zug-a slumberous old town, lying on the side of the hill, our path was in great measure extreme margin of its lake. We remained shadowed from the afternoon sun by the thi here but to change horses, so had but a glimpse foliage, the roots of the trees in many places of its quaint towers and streets. The road to forming a complete stair-way in some instances, Arth from Zug, about nine miles in extent, is assisted by artificial means; and I presume, inclose upon the borders of the lake the entire tended as a spiritual aid to the bodily exertion journey, presenting throughout a series of fine consequent on this ascent, there are at intervals, views over the waters of the stern mountain of in watch-box kind of buildings, or elevate the Rhigi, rendered colossal by its nearness, and poles, the most distorted and revolting pictures, seeming to hang its precipice over the lake, re- purporting to represent the suffering and pasa flecting it below : and behind this rise the sion of our Saviour. Emerging from th black splintered peaks of Mount Pilatus. This woods, you come upon tracks of the pleasant beautiful road is almost continuously under pasture-land, which, after the rough stairs avenues of cherry-trees; and, taking the pre- loose stones of the previous journey, is in caution to tie your cap, “wide-awake” or grateful to the tired feet. As our way con Leghorn," safely upon your head, you may, to bear to the left, we were entirely sh with a very small exercise of dexterity, have a from the sun, which, on pausing to look plentiful repast as you drive along, and at the for the first time I saw was flooding the same time feel thankful, spite of an occasional valleys with amber-tinted glory. Sitting a buffet from some unexpected bough, that you / upon the dry turf to enjoy for a few momen




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