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THE LADIES' GUILD.
We have received the prospectus of a new Square, where applications for admission to the Institution under the name of the Ladies' class diay be made to Mrs. Hill, the ViceGuild, which deserves the particular attention of President. our readers.
The point to which we would especially direct It appears that a lady of the name of Wallace' the attention of our readers is that contained in has lately taken out a patent for an invention in the following paragraph of the prospectus :glass decoration, which is capable of various
“ It has long been a matter of regret to those applications.*
accustomed to look on English society with the eyes “Miss Wallace's productions,” to use the of thoughtful observation, that so few remunerative words of a criticism in the Builder, “consist, employments are open to women of educated minds in principle of imitations of gold and silver in and refined habits. To such the main resource-we glass, without the use of either metal- of the migbt almost say the only resource as yet-has been protection of actual gilding or silvering under education-a noble and interesting task indeed, but an almost invisible, yet magnifying coat of glass one which, for its efficient performance, requires not -of a peculiar mode of adding metallic and only a rare combination of mental and moral pearly brilliancy to colours, to painted and powers, but also that the task should be to the taste stained figures, and to engraving, all in glass of the individual undertaking it.” of imitations of precious stones, and of other The writer might have added that the position inventions."
of a governess is too often one of peculiar hardThe invention is applicable to picture frames, ship; for while a rare combination of mental mouldings, and cornices; tables, work-boxes, and moral endowments is expected, the imscreens, and other articles to which papier maché portant and onerous duties required are seldom is usually applied, and which have the peculiar either sufficiently appreciated or adequately readvantage of being protected by a covering of munerated—while the treatment is too often glass, so that the gilding, &c., can never tarnish, that of an upper servant, the salary is frequently or be injured by any external influence. The far inferior. We hail, therefore, with great object of the “ Ladies' Guild” is to form a satisfaction, an Institution which offers to eduschool for the instruction of “Women of the cated women a means of emancipation from a Educated Class” in one of the departments of position too often of irksome slavery and dethis invention, which Miss Wallace reserves in grading dependence, and opens a prospect of her own hands, suitable, from its light and ar- obtaining on easy terms, and in an indepentistic workmanship, for female labour, and ap- dent manner, a comfortable competency; plicable to screens, work-boxes, envelope cases, We may add that it is further stated, in the &c., &c., which is offered to be taught to per- prospectus, that ladies who would like to aid in sons above the age of twelve, for the very mo- the establishment of the Ladies' Guild, by ad. derate charge of two shillings a-week.' The vancing sums of money as loans, will receive 3 articles produced by the pupils will be sold for per cent. ; and that ladies with fixed moderate their own benefit. The school is at present incomes may join an Associated Home in con. (for we understand it is contemplated to re- | nexion with The Guild, by which means they move the Institution to a larger house in the may join the Institution, and live more ecoRegent's Park) at No. 4, Russell Place, Fitzroy nomically than in a separate position.
FASHIONS FOR JUL Y.
Paris is still pretty full, owing principally to laine chinés, and striped in front, are the maten the number of foreigners who take it in their rials employed for deshabilles for the country way to the Great Exhibition in London. Our and the watering places. The robe is made own fashionables are leaving us very fast; some either as a peignoir, or with a skirt and corsage going to London, but only for a week or two, separate; but in either case a petite veste par. and then to the watering places. Others are dessus is indispensable with it. These acceso going at once to the Spas or their country resi- sories to morning deshabille have for some time dences. This change has given a spur to trade, been laid aside, but they will be adopted during which it really wanted. Percale, printed and striped, and coutils de much shorter, and cut round the bottom in
| summer, only with this difference, that they are
square dents, with a space between each dent. * Specimens are exhibited in the Great Exhi- Some of these dresses, of printed percale, bare bition; but, by a curious mal-arrangement, are the fronts of the skirts ornamented en montants placed on the south-west wall amongst the agriculo with guirlandes dispersées ; the petit pardessus
, tural implements !
always of the same material, is ornamented with
square dents at the bottom, encircled with a very I have now to speak of what is most admired narrow flounce. The sleeves are very wide at in Paris, and will be worn in out-door dress for the the bottom, and trimmed with two or three' season. The chapeaux most in request for négHounces. These pardessus sit closer to the cor- lige, are of paille chiné in two colours, or two sage than those that were formerly in use, but shades of the same colour. Some of the most they are not quite tight.
fashionable of the latter are of two shades of The coutils de laine chinés have also the par- green, lined with green taffeta, and trimmed on dessus of the same material, and striped like the i the exterior with narrow velvet tastefully arrobe in front. The form is that of a Turkish ranged. The edge of the brim is decorated rest, open on each side only. The vest and the with a voilette of black tulle, spotted with an openings are bordered with an embroidery in embroidery in straw, and edged with a wreath arabesques, made with a narrow silk galon. "The also worked with straw. The interior is ornaembroidery at the sides mounts high above mented in a light and simple style with rosebuds them, terminating in patterns of the Turkish and blonde lace. If these chapeaux are of two kind. A lighter kind of work ornaments the colours, straw colour and black, groseille and little pockets in front of the pardessus. Similar grey are the prevalent colours. The garnitures dresses are made in percale mille raies, that is are mostly composed of straw flowers interwith very narrow stripes, and large ones in mingled with velvet. front; in that case, the vest is embroidered in a Fancy chapeaux are in great request, both for narrow white cotton galon, or has a very narrow the public promenade and for ball-dress; some Bounce.
of the prettiest for the former are composed of I may cite in a more dressy style for early bands of paille dentelle alternating with rosemorning home dress, the peignoirs Fontanges, coloured taffeta biais ; blonde lace drawn a little composed of taffetas chiné, foulard des Indes, full falls lightly over the biais. Sprigs of roses in large flowered patterns, and jaconot muslin intermingled with and straw-coloured in small flowered ones. They may be made ribbon decorate the exterior, and half-blown open, or closed in front, descending in long roses and blonde lace the interior of the brim. deep folds, confined to the waist by a ceinture of Crin is a good deal employed for fancy charibbon, the broad ends of which descend to the peaux ; the prettiest are of the lace kind; three knees. We have gone back to the time of bands of it, and three of ribbon drawn full, Louis XIV. and Louis XV. for the trimming of placed alternately, form the brim. Sprigs of these peignoirs ; and the narrow flounces of rib- small flowers of various colours intermingled bon, surmounted by ruches and edged with lace, with coques of ribbon decorate the exterior, and is a garniture at once elegant and historic. The tufts of the same flowers mingled with ribbons skirt is decorated with three or four of these the interior of the brim ; they are placed very flounces, mounting as they rise high on the low, and terminated by the broad ribbon brides skirt and the fronts of the dress. A fanchon that are now always attached to chapeaux. A Louis Quinze, composed of blonde, black lace, band of crin, with one of ribbon, forms a full and ribbons, is generally worn with these and rather deep bavolet. peignoirs.
Rice straw is a good deal employed for fancy A skirt and casaco of jaconas perse, chiné, or chapeaux ; the crown is composed of it only ; Watteau, should be adopted for a morning walk the brim is composed of bands of it alternating in the garden or the park of the chateau. The with ribbon, tulle, or lace. I may cite among skirt is trimmed with deep volants disposed in the prettiest, those that have the brim formed of quills. The Casaco is moderately wide, closed three bands of paille de riz, and three of taffeta on the breast, and trimmed likewise with ribbon, in different shades of yellow—the first flounces; they are very narrow, and only as deep as orange, and the last pale lemonhemmed. Nunkin is also arlopted for these colour. Two branches of yellow acacia droop dresses, and in that case the garniture is com- on one side of the exterior ; and small yellow posed of bands of broderie Anglaise.
flowers intermingled with coques of ribbon decoThe chapeaux adopted with these dresses are rate the interior of the brim. quite different from those employed for the pro- I may name, among the most gant demimenade ; the Swiss form is generally adopted, a toilette chapeaux, those of paille de riz, having very small crown, either pointed or rounded, the crown composed of entre deux of rosewith an excessively wide brim falling over the coloured taffeta, divided by narrow bands of face and neck. These chapeaux are of paille paille de riz ; there are on each side three bouilChiné, paille Suisse
, or paille d'Italie. Fancy lonnés of rose taffeta, smaller and less voluminous straw may be adopted, but it is less in vogue. as they approach the brim; on the right side of Coquelicots, blue bells, and different kinds of which is a branch of red rosebuds with foliage. field flowers, are employed to trim it. Paille The bavolet turns up so as to display the neck Chiné, y ellow and black, is decorated with straw- very gracefully; it is of rice straw, and coloured ribbons, and coquelicots, with black Roses without foliage, and with a naud of taffeta,
A broad ribbon, placed across the mid-decorate the interior of the brim. dle of the crown, with a narrow scarf of rose- Chapeaux of paille d'Italie are much in favour, ribbon turning round it, and ending in a knot both for public promenade and half-dress. with floating ends behind, is a tavourite garni- Feathers are rather more employed than flowers fure for Swiss straw chapeaux,
for these chapeaux ; but the latter are equally
fashionable. Some of the most elegant have trimming. It is made for the first in taffetas of the crown decorated with a fanchon of rose- | dark colours; the garnitures may be lace, fringe, coloured taffeta glacé de blanc, and bordered the material of the dress, or velvet ribbon; the with a row of white blonde lace; a bouquet of last is very profusely employed. Muslin manwhite and red moss-roses is placed on each side telets begin to be a good deal seen; they are of the crown; they droop over the brim, being trimmed with volants of the same, festooned but partially shaded by the lace of the fanchon. not embroidered. Taffeta mantelets for dress Half-wreaths of intermingled roses of the two are generally of light colours; they continue to colours decorate the interior of the brim; the be covered, I may say loaded with embroidery; brides are very broad rose-coloured taffeta ribbon the upper part in the style of a revers bordered glacé de blanc. Broad rich brides are not only with a rich effilé or lace of the same pattern, but in vogue, but are absolutely essential to the gar- narrower than that round the lower part. There niture of an elegant chapeau.
are two styles of embroidery, the Pompadour Feathers are frequently adopted for the ex- and the châtelaine ; the first is a rich melange terior of rice straw chapeaux ; these plumes of the passé, point d'armes, and petits galons of formed of the bands of marabouts are of great passementerie: it is sometimes disposed in knots lightnes3 and beauty; they droop in what is from which bouquets of flowers descend. The termed a shower on one side of the brim; a knot châtelaine is in arabesques and gothic patterns of ruban chiné, a white ground, chiné in a variety mingled with beautiful and luxuriant foliage. of colours, attaches the plume, which is shaded The garniture of the mantelets chále is a in all the tints of the ribbon. A narrow ribbon lighter kind; it is principally lace and ribbon: of the same kind is twisted round the interior of some are of that rich black net called filet de the brim; light sprigs of small flowers are in- soie ; they are trimmed with broad black lace. termingled with it at the sides.
A new style of trimming for coloured taffeta Flowers composed of straw are very much in mantelets is composed of plain tulle of the same request for fancy chapeaux; water-lilies, pinks, colour, and very broad bands of narrow velvet, boutons d'or and daisies intermingled with long always to correspond, are placed three by three light foliage of brown or shaded green velvet : at about an inch distance upon the tulle; a the last novelty for paille de riz chapeaux is the heading of very broad velvet encircles this trimguirlandes en traines; they are made to encircle ming, and is the garniture of the fronts. I have the crown and descend in a touffe panache on seen also tulle bouillonné employed for these each side of the brim. Some of these traines mantelets; it is divided into three or four rows are intermingled with blue-bells, small hedge- by narrow velvet. I may cite among the most roses, mulberry blossoms, and a number of very elegant of the dress mantelets those of white small flowers mingled with sprigs of heath blos- taffeta, the ground embroidered in white silk soms. Nothing can be in better taste for the and soutache; the tulle that trimmed it was chapeau of a young unmarried lady than a traine divided by nine rows of a light ornament of composed only of ivy leaves interiningled with
passementerie, representing a chain of narrow half-blown Bengal roses, either white or red. rings in white silk; magnificent buttons closed
A mixture of straw is now frequently seen in the mantelet in front. the chapeaux and capotes of crape and tulle, in It is expected that during the summer a half-dress. Several capotes of rose-coloured tulle lighter style of trimming will divide the vogue bouillonné nave the rows divided by a band of with the Pompadour and chatelaine: some models paille de riz; the garniture is a tuft of roses of this style have just appeared. I have selected without foliage placed on each side of the ex- three of the most elegant for our first plate. terior; the interior is decorated with rosebuds Light shawls are dividing the vogue with man. intermingled with blonde. Some of the most telets ; they are of black lace, embroidered novel tulle chapeaux are spotted with an em muslin, and printed barège ; the latter are both broidery in straw so very fine that it looked like long and square, with cashmere patterns of the gold thread; the brim was encircled by three | most novel kind. straw ribbons fulled on one side so that they The silks I have already announced still prehad the appearance of narrow flounces; a bou- serve the vogue in elegant promenade and halfquet of marabouts was placed on one side of dress; but they divide it with barèges more the crown, a small water-lily of straw was numerous and more novel than any that have attached to the tip of each marabout; the rib- yet appeared. They are all white, or light bons that encircled the brim were brought round grounds; the barège corail is a tasteful mixturo the bavolet ; the interior of the chapeau was of branches of corals, herbs, and sea-flowers. decorated with these little fowers, intermingled La rose d'eau naturelle united to long herbes with rich blonde ribbons that formed the brides rubannées, and branches of coral, form patterns of the chapeau.
equally splendid and novel. The barège à plumes The vogue of mantelets has triumphed com marabouts represents willow marabout plumes, pletely over that of pardessus; the two most surmounting bouquets of flowers. The barege decided forms are those of the scarf and the pastel is a shower of flowers exquisitely copied shawl kind; those that are not exactly one or and coloured after nature. The barège hatteau the other partake in some degree of either. The with patterns of ribbons disposed in true-lovers' mantelet écharpe is the most in request both for knots tying tufts of flowers. The barège fornégligé and dress, according to the material and tange is striped, imitating ribbons of all colours.