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flounce of black lace, surmounted by bugle orna-, silk. La Pompadour, for evening dress only, is a ments, and made with a flat Capuchon correspond- new version of the Fontange, striped iu imitation of ing, but bordered with a narrow lace, is one of the ribbons, alternately plain and broché: as the patterns most elegant half-dress pardessus.
of the last are new, and very rich, the effect is novel Fashionable furs are the martre zibelene (Siberian and striking. The Brocatelle, à reps ground, with sable). It is the finest kind of sable, and is now nearly bouquets of satin in relief, recals the days of Louis the most expensive fur. Ermine, elegant as it is, is not XV.; but though equally rich, it is in much better dear. Canadian sahle comes next. Trimmings for taste-the patterns and colours less glaring, and mantles, &c., &c., will, for promenade dress, be sable more elegant. The Victoria is for evening dress of either kind. Ermine can be worn only in carriage-only; it is moir : antique, splendidly broché, in light dress, or for the garniture of evening-wraps; but we colour, have reason to believe that, as the season advances, There is no actual change to notice in the forms of both sable and ermine will be employed for trimming robes; but it is expected that, as the season advances, robes. Grébe, which has during some seasons past those for evening will be made with demi-trains; been in and out of favour, is expected to be employed and that skirts will continue of the present width. for the trimmings of evening pardessus. Muffs will Corsages, whether in half or evening-dress, will be pe very fashionable; they are of a moderate size. | lengthened as much as possible in the waist; but it The only cheap fur—that is, comparatively cheap- does not appear that any alteration will take place that is likely to be employed for trimmings, is the in the forms of those in half-dress. The corsages Vison d'Amerique; it has some resemblance to the are generally in the Louis Quinze form. Fashionmartre de Canada, and is a very serviceable fur. able colours are claret, dark green, violet, deep blue, It is known in England by the name of Mink. purple, and several shades of deep red; black is also
Valencia de laine, and popeline de laine, have re- a good deal seen, both in promenade and half-dress. placed merinos in plain morning or promenade- Light hues are most in favour for coiffures in the dress; these materials are simply trimmed with latter; they are also partially adopted for robes. black velvet, for they are not sufficiently rich to be worn with a gilet. I must observe that gilets have lost nothing of their vogue; on the contrary, it is augmented: they are now of two kinds-simple and DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. rich: the first may be of black velvet embroidered with soutaches and closed with jet buttons, or of straw-coloured cashmere embroidered in straw
FIRST PLATE. coloured silk, and closed by buttons of passementerie. A third sort, though more dressy, is EVENING DRESS. - Robe of one of the new still a gilet simple; it is of piqué blanc, with an winter silks, a white ground, with a running pattern einbroidery in oak leaves and rose-buds. The others in blue flowers; gerbes of larger flowers, in a deeper are made in velours épinglé, satin, moire, and gros shade of blue, encircle the bottom of the skirt, de Tours; they are embroidered in small beads, mounting high-particularly at the sides. Corsage bugles, silks, with sometimes a mixture of gold or Pompadour, cut very low round the top, long in the silver thread. Gilets are made either mounting to waist, and terminated by a deep, sharp point. the throat, or open en cour; the rich ones are Short tight sleeve, finished by two falls of Chantilly generally of the latter sort, to display the em- lace; the berthe is a double fall of the same. Blue broidered or lace chemisette.
ribbon breast-knot; it is of the papillon form, with It is supposed that the robes à dispositions, so a brilliant ornament in the centre. Head-dress of fashionable last summer, will be brought forward in hair, arranged à la Sevigné in small curls over the other materials this winter. I think their general forehead, a profusion of long ringlets at the sides, success is very doubtful; but it is yet too soon to and a twisted band crowning the summit of the decide. Those called Albanaise are the most likely head. to be fashionable; they have grounds of one colour only, trimmed with three or five flounces of the
SECOND PLATE, same material, but bordered with stripes of a striking PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS. Robe of soie and strongly-contrasted colour. The same stripes broché, a red lilac ground, figured in black; coralso encircle the basquincs, sleeves, and corsages. sage Amazone. Demi-pagoda sleeves, a threeThese robes have appeared in poplins, cashmeres, quarter length; they are terminated by a volant; and different kinds of silk. Some with velvet stripes embroidered muslin collar and ruffles. Green velvet are very rich. They are made in inferior materials; pelisse, lined with silk of the same bue. The corbut those will certainly not be adopted by the élite sage, close fitting, very long in the waist, and with a of fashion. A good many redingotes have the front small falling collar, is einbroidered in relief with of the skirt decorated with them, as well as the cor- soie torse of a lighter shade. The embroidery exsage and sleeves.
tends on the front of the corsage in the form of a Several new silks have appeared, both for demi-heart; it descends in the robing style down the toilette and evening-dress; the reps Ceres is one fronts of the skirt, and turns in a broad border round that may be worn in both, according to the colours. the bottom, which is terminated by a deep and very The ground for the first must be sombre—as deep rich fringe. Pagoda sleeves, of moderate size, also blue, dark red, &c., &c., strewed with black velvet embroidered. White velours épinglé chapeau, u flowers in relief: the effect is extremely rich, but moderately open shape; the brim, bordered with grey rather heavy. It is equally rich, for the evening lilac ribbon and lined with white satin, is trimmed silks, in light green, azure blue, and rose. The in the interior, at the sides, with green velvet leaves Lampas, for dinner robes, has two shades of one embedded in the folds of the lining, and on the excolour in the ground, with large bouquets of a terior with bands of grey lilac ribbon drawn full, different hue. Pompadour Pekin is striped, in and a white flower, with a tuft of foliage on each stripes of equal breadth : one is marron satine ; side; grey lilac brides. the other forms a wreath of roses : it is a social party HOME DRESS. - Rose-coloured satin chapeau, very full trimmed on the exterior and interior of the Such persons ought, however, to abstain from brim with ribbon to correspond. Grey cloth robe ; exercises that require great efforts, on account of a high corsage, opening on the bosom with a short their predisposition to aneurisms, hemorrhages, lappel lined with black : it closes from the lappel to and cerebral effusions and compressions. the bottom of the waist, terminating in a cleft basquine, the ends of which, also lined with black,
Passive exercises, or those methods that gently are turned up in front and attached by a fancy silk strengthen the fibres without causing any corbutton. The front of the corsage is ornamented in responding loss, and thus induce plethora, would the stomacher style by bands of narrow black velvet be unsuitable to sanguine persons disposed to ribbon; others much broader are disposed on the hemorrhage. front of the skirt, in the form of a broken cone. Active exercises suit individuals of a lymphatic Sleeves a three-quarter length, over muslin ones; temperament, naturally dull, slow, and indolent. they are moderately wide at the bottom, with cuffs The ancients remarked the good effects of turning up rather high, and bordered with black exercise upon girls of weak constitutions, of soft velvet. Embroidered muslin collar.
and lax texture, subject to languid maladies ;
and they accordingly applied exercise in the cure EXERCISE.
of many diseases that baffled the skill of the Exercise should vary according to age.
physician. The moderns have profited by their Nature announces to us, by the extreme rest- observations, and inade new ones of similar tenlessness of the infant, the pressing necessity of
dency. its organization for active exercise. In sponta
It would, however, be imprudent to subject neous motions, we see very young children in suddenly to violent exercise young girls of feeble dulge, with a kind of joy, whenever they are for constitution, with soft skin, pale complexion, and an instant freed from their clothes. This is the light hair, which are proofs of weakness. exercise suited to their age; and it is far more and feeble vessels are plunged in fat, exercise
In persons also with soft fibres, whose narrow salutary for them than all the motions communi- must be very moderate, in order not radically to cated by the nurses who toss them about.
This being equally applicable to infants of both wear out muscular forces deprived of primitive sexes, it may be added that the child should energy. If it is very violent, or is continued be taken out often, especially if brought up in too long, it may then sometimes occasion aditown-but should not be kept seated on one
pose inflammations of the viscera. forearm. This manner of carrying is, even in
To remedy this languishing state, their ábres infancy, one of the causes of deviations of the should first be braced by passive exercises frevertebral column, which is still in a cartilaginous quently repeated, commencing by those which state. The mother or nurse should
are extremely gentle. Exercise in the open air
, infant on both her arms, in a half reclining such as carriage-riding, is particularly useful to position, that she may give equal support to all girls of this constitution. The force and reits parts. Neither should she leave the head, sistance of the fibres will augment in proportion which is so large in proportion to the rest of the
as the fatty and serous plethora dissipates itself. body, to its own weight.
A nervous temperament promises superiority Above all things, it is necessary to observe
of the mental faculties, but it may become the that it is the movements that infants make of source of great evils if we do not diminish that their own accord which are most useful to them, exquisite susceptibility which sooner or later because the quickness of their actions should
would produce them. follow the vivacity of their sensations.
The general effect of exercise is to strengthen It is the liberty of running about granted the body and counteract the early predisposition to children in the country, which, in a great indeed, requires continual exercise. In it, there
to a nervous temperament. This temperament, measure, produces that strong constitution which distinguishes them from children in towns.
is no danger that in strengthening the body, we In youth, active exercises are useful, in draw- may injure those faculties that seem to arise from ing into the limbs those vivifying juices which a nervous temperament. With such constitution, frequently direct themselves with too much ac
no one can ever become an athlete, which, as tivity towards the organs of respiration.
we know, is converting mind into brute force. Temperament requires to be studied in the will prevent them becoming invalids—it is certain
Nervous girls, then, should be strengthened; it selection of exercises.
An individual possessed of a sanguine tem- they will remain clever.-- American Magazine. perament should constantly use active exercises. If sanguification or the formation of blood be
TO CORRESPONDENTS. very active, they may be carried so far as to produce perspiration. It is the best means of dis
ACCEPTED : Percie. sipating, to the advantage of the nutrition of
A. B.-The communication of this correspondent, the muscles, the excess of plethora and super- though dated the 15th October, did not reach us till abundance of juices which torment persons of the 29th. Two of the shorter pieces shall appear, this temperament.
but the remainder are declined with many thanks. END OF VOL. XXXV.
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