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Chaloner, that he was by no means rich; and I knew nothing of the people she was travelling with; therefore I did not see the necessity of putting myself the least out of the way on her account. Still if I had had the smallest idea of her so soon becoming Mrs. Rutledge, the wife of a rich man, and a member of Congress, I should certainly have dressed myself, and received her in the front parlour, instead of the nursery, and had nice things for dinner, and invited some of my best people to meet her in the evening.' "And not sent for Miss Nancy Risings," interrupted Mary Jane. "Well, mama, I think we have made a bad business of it; and, to say the truth, I was actually ashamed more than once to see the way things were going on. As to the boys, I am glad papa is going to send them all to that Boston boarding-school; the farther from home, the better for themselves and us; it will be such a relief to get rid of them."

In the next private confabulation between the mother and daughter" Only think, Mary Jane," said Mrs. Gilmore, "your father tells me that the family Mrs. Chaloner was travelling with, is one of the very first in Boston, quite at the head of society, immensely wealthy, and living in almost a palace--such people as we never had in our house. What a pity we did not know who they were! we might have derived so much éclat from them. What an opportunity we have lost! If Mrs. Chaloner had given me any reason to suppose that her friends could be persons of that description, I would have invited them all in the evening, and strained every nerve to get some of our most fashionable people to meet them; and I would have had Carroll and Truelar both; and ice-creams, and blanc-mange, and champagre, and all such things-but how was I to suppose that little Mrs. Chaloner, with her plain gown and cap, was likely to have made such acquaintances, or to make so great a match? I wish I had not treated her quite so unceremoniously; but I am sure I thought it could never be worth while to put myself the least out of the way for her." “You see, mama,” said Mary Jane, “in this, as in many other instances, you have overreached yourself. Your plans never

seem to come out well."

"I believe," replied Mrs. Gilmore, " your father's notions of things are, after all, the best, and I shall pay more regard to them in future. Mary Jane, be sure you tell him no particulars of Mrs. Chaloner's visit."

ACCOUNT OF THE EARTHQUAKE AT NAPLES, November 25th, 1343, given by Petrarch in a letter written to a friend on the ensuing day.

A MONK, who was the bishop of a neighbouring island, and held in great esteem for his sanctity and his skill in astrology, had foretold that Naples was to be destroyed by an earthquake on the 25th of November. The prophecy spread such a terror through the city that the inhabitants abandoned their affairs to prepare themselves for death. Some hardy spirits, indeed, ridiculed those who betrayed marks of fear on the approach of a thunder storm; and as soon as the storm was over, jestingly cried out, See, the prophecy has failed.'

As to myself, I was in a state between fear and hope; but I must confess that fear sometimes got the ascendant. Accustomed to a colder climate, and in which a thunder storm in winter was a rare phenomenon, I considered what I now saw, as a threatening from Heaven.

On the eve of the night in which the prophecy was to be fulfilled, a number of females, more attentive to the impending evil than to the decorum of their sex, ran half naked through the streets, pressing their children to their bosoms. They hastened to prostrate themselves in the churches, which they deluged with their tears, crying out with all their might, "Have mercy, O Lord! Have mercy upon us!"

Moved, distressed with the general consternation, I retired early to the Convent of St. Lawrence. The monks went to rest at the usual hour. It was the seventh day of the moon, and as I was anxious to observe in what manner she would set, I stood looking at my window till she was hid from my sight by a neighbouring mountain. This was a little before midnight. The moon was gloomy and overcast; nevertheless, I felt myself tolerably composed, and went to bed. But scarce had I closed my eyes, when I was awakened by the loud rattling of my chamber windows. I felt the walls of the convent violently shaken from their foundations. The lamp, which I always kept lighted through the night, was extinguished. The fear of death laid fast hold upon me.

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The whole city was in commotion, and you heard nothing but

lamentations and confused exhortations to make ready for the dreadful event. The monks, who had risen to sing their matins, terrified by the movements of the earth, ran into my chamber, armed with crosses and relics, imploring the mercy of Heaven. A prior, whose name was David, and who was considered as a saint, was at their head. The sight of these inspired us with little courage. We proceeded to the church, which was already crowded; there we remained during the rest of the night, expecting every moment the completion of the prophecy.

The

It is impossible to describe the horrors of that night. elements were let loose. The noise of the thunder, the winds, and the rain, the roarings of the enraged sea, the convulsions of the heaving earth, and the distracted cries of those who felt them. selves staggering on the brink of death, were dreadful beyond imagination. Never was there such a night! As soon as we ap. prehended that the day was at hand, the altars were prepared, and the priests dressed themselves for mass. Trembling, we lifted up our eyes to heaven, and then fell prostrate upon the earth. The day at length appeared. But what a day! Its horrors were more terrible than those of the night. No sooner were the higher parts of the city a little more calm, than we were struck by the outcries which we heard towards the sea. Anxious to discover what passed there, and still expecting nothing but death, we became desperate, and instantly mounting our horses, rode down to the shore.

Heavens! what a sight! Vessels wrecked in the harbour, the strand covered with bodies, which had been dashed against the rocks by the fury of the waves. Here you saw the brains of some, and the entrails of others; there the palpitating struggles of yet remaining life. You might distinguish the groans of the men, and the shrieks of the women, even through the noise of the thunder, the roaring of the billows, and the crash of falling houses. The sea regarded not either the restraints of men, or the barriers of nature. She no longer knew the bounds which had been set by the Almighty.

That immense mole which, stretching itself out on each hand, forms the port, was buried under the tumult of the waves; and the lower parts of the city were so much deluged, that you could not pass along the streets without danger of being drowned.

We found near the shore above a thousand Neapolitan cavaliers, who had assembled, as it were to witness the funeral obsequies of their country. This splendid troop gave me a little courage. If I die, said I to myself, it will be at least in good company. Scarce had I made this reflection, when I heard a dreadful clamour everywhere around me. The sea had sapped the foundations of the place where we stood, and it was at this instant giving way. We fled, therefore, immediately to a more elevated ground. Hence we beheld a most tremendous sight. The sea between Naples and Capræa was covered with moving mountains; they were neither green as in the ordinary state of the ocean, nor black as in common storms, but white.

The young queen rushed out of the palace, bare-footed, her hair dishevelled, and her dress in the greatest disorder. She was followed by a train of females, whose dress was as loose and disorderly as her own. They went to throw themselves at the feet of the blessed Virgin Mary, crying aloud, Mercy! mercy!

Towards the close of the day the storm abated, the sea was calm, and the heavens serene. Those who were upon the land suffered only the pains of fear; but it was otherwise with those who were upon the water. Some Marseilles galleys, last from Cyprus, and now ready to weigh anchor, were sunk before our eyes, nor could we give them the least assistance. Larger vessels from other nations met with the same fate in the midst of the harbour. Not a soul was saved!

There was a very large vessel, which had on board four hundred criminals under sentence of death. The mode of their punishment had been changed, and they were reserved as a forlorn hope to be exposed in the first expedition against Sicily. This ship, which was stout and well built, sustained the shocks of the waves till sunset; but now she began to loosen and to fill with water. The criminals, who were a hardy set of men, and less dismayed by death as they had lately seen him so near at hand, struggled with the storm, and by a bold and vigorous defence kept death at bay till the approach of night. But their efforts were in vain. The ship began to sink. Determined, however, to put off as far as possible the moment of dissolution, they ran aloft, and hung upon the masts and rigging. At this moment the tempest was appeased, and these poor convicts were the only persons whose lives were saved in the port of Naples.

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND ASIA.

MR. GEORGE STEPHENS, a lively and active-minded native of the United States, has, within the last eighteen months, published two sets of travels, giving an account of his rambles in Egypt, Idumea, the Holy Land, Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland. The first work, published in 1837, is called "Incidents of Travel in Egypt, Arabia Petræa, and the Holy Land;" the second, a more recent production, bears a similar title, and is concerned with the other countries named. The travels in Greece, Turkey, and Russia, precede, in point of time, the travels in Egypt and the Holy Land, though the latter were the first published. Mr. Stephens is an exceedingly agreeable writer, mixing common sense, information, and gossip, in a way calculated to carry the reader along with him; and he is so good-humoured and hearty, that one absolutely enjoys the " Incidents."

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In February, 1835, "by a bright starlight, after a short ramble among the Ionian islands," Mr. Stephens sailed from Zante, "in a beautiful cutter, of about forty tons, for Padrass," at the mouth of the gulf of Corinth. A storm compelled the navigators to run into the harbour of Missolonghi, and here Mr. Stephens first touched "the soil of fallen, but immortal Greece." Though Byron died at Missolonghi, it appeared to our traveller "a cheerless place," and reminded him" of Communipaw in bad weather." It had, he says, "no connexion with the ancient glory of Greece, no name or place on her historic page;" and, far worse still, no hotel where he could get a breakfast." But the brother of Marco Bozzaris lived here; and with him lived the widow and children of that daring guerilla chief, who fell in the Greek revolutionary war. So, with that free and easy manner which seems to come so natural from American travellers, the traveller and his companions introduced themselves to the brother, widow, and daughters of Bozzaris, and Mr. Stephens gratified them by promising to send them a copy of the American poet, Mr. Halleck's "Marco Bozzaris," a promise which he fulfilled. From Missolonghi, the travellers took horse to Lepanto, attempting, by the way, to ascend Parnassus, but were deterred by the fear of banditti. "Every schoolboy," says Mr. Stephens, "knows how hard it is to write poetry, but few know the physical difficulties of climbing the mountain itself." From the harbour of Lepanto they sailed across the gulf of Corinth to Padrass, which stands at its mouth; and from thence on horseback they went to Corinth, so famous in classical and New Testament history, but now in decay and ruins. Onwards they went to Athens, and drawing near it, "they passed the ruined monastery of Daphne, in a beautifully picturesque situation, and in a few minutes saw the rich plain of Attica; our muleteers and Demetrius, with a burst of enthusiasm, perhaps because the journey was ended, clapped their hands, and cried out, Atina! Atinæ !'"'

Of Athens, so absolutely crammed with matter for consideration and reflection, Mr. Stephens speaks at some length, but we can only give his summary view :

"The sentimental traveller must already mourn that Athens has been selected as the capital of Greece. Already have speculators, and the whole tribe of 'improvers' invaded the glorious city; and while I was lingering on the steps of the Parthenon, a German, who was quietly smoking among the ruins, a sort of superintendant, whom I had met before, came up, and offering me a segar, and leaning against one of the lofty columns of the temple, opened upon me with his plans of city improvements,' with new streets, and projected railroads, and the rise of lots. At first I almost thought it personal, and that he was making a fling at me in allusion to one of the greatest hobbies of my native city: but I soon found that he was as deeply bitten as if he had been in Chicago or Dunkirk; and the way in which he talked of moneyed facilities, the wants of the community, and a great French bank then contemplated at the Piræus, would have been no discredit to one of my friends at home. The removal of the court has created a new era in Athens: but in my mind it is deeply to be regretted that it has been snatched from the ruin to which it was tending. Even I, deeply imbued with the utilitarian spirit of my country, and myself a quondam speculator in 'up-torn lots,' would fain save Athens from the

ruthless hand of renovation-from the building mania of modern speculators. I would have her to go on till there was not a habitation among her ruins; till she stood, like Pompeii, alone in the wilderness, a sacred desert, where the traveller might sit down and meditate alone and undisturbed among the relics of the past. But already Athens has become a heterogeneous anomaly; the Grecks in their wild costume are jostled in the streets by Englishmen, Frenchmen, Italians, Dutchmen, Spaniards, and Bavarians, Russians, Danes, and sometimes Americans. European shops invite purchasers by the side of Eastern bazaars, coffee-houses, and billiard-rooms, and French and German restaurants are opened all over the city. Sir Pulteney Malcolm has erected a house to hire near the site of Plato's Academy. Lady Franklin has bought land near the foot of Mount Hymettus for a country-seat. Several English gentlemen have done the same. Mr. Richmond, an American clergyman, has purchased a farm in the neighbourhood; and, in a few years, if the march of improvement' continues, the Temple of Theseus will be enclosed in the garden of the palace of king Otho; the Temple of the Winds will be concealed by a German opera-house, and the Lantern of Demosthenes by a row of three story houses.'" "The first thing we did in Athens was to visit the American Missionary School. Among the extraordinary changes of an ever-changing world, it is not the debt which the world owes to the mother of science, and the least that the young America is at this moment paying back the citizen of a country which the wisest of the Greeks never dreamed of, is teaching the descendants of Plato and Aristotle the elements of their own tongue."

After rambling over the Grecian peninsula, visiting Argos, Marathon, and the marble quarries of Pentelicus, the storehouse of the immortal sculptors of Athens, he touched, on his way to Smyrna, at "Scio's rocky isle," once the most beautiful island in the Archipelago, now a mass of ruins, and the scene of one of the most fearful and bloodiest of the scenes of the Greek revolution, the massacre of the inhabitants by the Turks. Indeed, Mr. Stephens' rambles in Greece are painful to read, because one is perpetually reminded of that horrible struggle, the Greek revolution, and has convincing proofs of how long it takes to erase the traces of civil war. In the very outset of his journey he gives us an example of the evil which travelling may leave on the mind, for it requires a somewhat disciplined intellect to travel, in order to extract the good of it. He saw a pyramid of skulls at Missolonghi; and he adds-" In my after wanderings, I learned to look more carelessly upon these things; and, perhaps, noticing everywhere the light estimation put upon human life in the East, learned to think more lightly of it myself."

Unable to get up the gulf of Smyrna, from contrary winas, he landed, and engaged a Tartar, who promised to "take me through in fourteen hours; and at seven o'clock he was in his saddle, charged with a dozen letters from captains, supercargoes, and passengers, whom he left behind waiting for a change of wind. He had some adventures on his way; but having arrived at "the queen of the cities of Anatolia, extolled by the ancients as Smyrna the lovely, the crown of Ionia, the pride of Asia," he was soon "in the full enjoyment of a Turkish bath ;" and bursts out with, "Oh, these Turks are luxurious dogs. Chibouks, coffee, hot-baths, and as many wives as they please! What a catalogue of human enjoyments!"

We shall flit over Smyrna, and over his excursion to Ephesus; merely remarking, that in the former city he saw one of the amiable customs of our own city in full force here, namely, that of the young gentlemen, with light sticks in their hands, gathering around the door of the fashionable church, to stare at the ladies as

they came out." He was "pleased to find such a mark of civilisa

tion in a land of barbarians."

All unsentimental as Mr. Stephens professes himself to be, his sense of the classical was dreadfully outraged by the mode of his conveyance from Smyrna to Constantinople: he actually "sneaked" on board-the steam-boat! Nay, more, he tells us that the destruction of the janissaries was owing, not to the Sultan, but to Steam Navigation. "Do not laugh," says he, "but listen." And so he tells us all about the prodigious changes which steam and European fashions are effecting on the character of the Turks.

prepared for a trial of his patience. "At Constantinople I had heard wretched accounts of the rude treatment of lazaretto subjects, and the rough barbarous manners of the Russians to travellers; and we had a foretaste of the light in which we were to be regarded, in the conduct of the health officer who came alongside. He offered to take charge of any letters for the town, purify them that night, and deliver them in the morning; and, according to his directions, we laid them down on the deck, where he took them up with a pair of long iron tongs, and putting them into an iron box, shut it up, and rode off."

But the steam-boat is going by "at the rate of eight or ten miles an hour, over a piece of the most classic ground consecrated in history, mythology, or poetry, and in less time than the swift-footed Achilles could have travelled it." But as he passes the plain of Troy he gets wild :-" Hold!" he cries, "stop the engine! If there be a piece of ground on earth in which the historical, and the | poetical, and the fabulous, are so beautifully blended that we would not separate them even to discover the truth, it is before us now." But still the steam-boat goes on, running up that narrow arm of the sea which separates Europe and Asia; and after being dazzled, as all travellers are dazzled, by the splendid aspect of Constanti- On landing, "the first operation was to examine our passports, nople from the water, he lands in a city in which there is to be take down our names, and make a memorandum of the purposes seen "a lazy, lounging, and filthy population; beggars basking in for which we severally entered the dominions of the emperor and the sun, and dogs licking their sores; streets never cleaned but by autocrat of all the Russias. We were all called up, one after the the winds and rains; immense burying-grounds all over the city; other, captain, cook, and cabin-boy, cabin and deck passengers; graves gaping ready to throw out their half-buried dead, the whole and never, perhaps, did steam-boat put forth a more motley asapproaching to one vast charnel-house ;-these dispel all illusions semblage than we presented. We were Jews, Turks, and Christand remove all doubts, and we are ready to ask ourselves if it beians; Russians, Poles, and Germans; English, French, and Italians; possible that in such a place health can ever dwell. We wonder Austrians, Greeks, and Illyrians; Moldavians, Wallachians, Bulgathat it should ever, for the briefest moment, be free from that rians, and Sclavonians; Armenians, Georgians, and Africans; and dreadful scourge which comes with every summer's sun, and strews one American. I had before remarked their happy facility in acits streets with dead." Nevertheless he adds, "There is a good quiring languages; and I saw a striking instance in the officer who chance for an enterprising Connecticut man to set up a hotel in conducted the examination, and who addressed every man in his Constantinople." own language, with as much facility as though it had been his native tongue."

Having seen everything worth seeing in Constantinople, visited the Mosque of St. Sophia, rode on the waters of the Golden Horn, The disagreeable ordeal of the quarantine was made as endurand visited the slave market, where his attendant strongly urged able as possible, by the civility of the functionaries. The lazaretto him to buy a Circassian beauty exposed for sale (the slave trade" is situated on high ground, within an enclosure of some fifteen had a stronghold in men's selfish interests and passions), he thought of going to Egypt; but the plague was raging too violently there. A Russian steamer was advertised for Odessa; so he went on board. It was a clumsy thing: "The tub of a steam-boat dashed up the Bosphorus at the rate of three miles an hour; while the classic waters, indignant at having such a bellowing, blowing, blustering monster upon their surface, seemed to laugh at her unwieldy and ineffectual efforts. Slowly we mounted the beautiful strait, lined on the European side almost with one continued range of houses, exhibiting in every beautiful nook a palace of the Sultan, and at Terapeia and Buyukdere the palaces of the foreign ambassadors; passed the Giant's Mountain, and in about an hour before dark were entering a new sea, the dark and stormy Euxine."

or twenty acres, overlooking the Black Sea, laid out in lawn and gravel-walks, and ornamented with rows of acacia-trees. Fronting the sea was a long range of buildings, divided into separate apartments, each with a little court-yard in front, containing two or three acacias. The director, a fine, military-looking man, with a decoration on his lapel, met us, on horseback, within the enclosure; and with great suavity of manner said, "that he could not bid us welcome to a prison, but that we should have the privilege of walking at will over the grounds, and visiting each other, subject only to the attendance of a guardiano; and that all that could contribute to our comfort should be done for us."

When he was once let loose upon Odessa, he got into very good company, and was very hospitably treated. He met with one remarkable character,-General Sontag, a native of Philadelphia, who had served as sailing-master in the American navy, had entered the Russian service, and was at this time inspector of the port of Odessa, a post which placed him next in rank to the governor of the Crimea, Count Woronzo, one of the richest seigneurs in Russia. General Sontag's heart still warmed to his native land. Mr. Stephens spent a day with him at his country place, some distance from Odessa; the general showed the traveller his library which he called "America," fitted up with American books, such as those of Cooper, Irving, &c.; and his daughter played on the piano, “Hail, Columbia,” and “Yankee Doodle." "The day," says Mr. Stephens, wore away too soon."

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But to Mr. Stephens the Black Sea did not turn out the "dark and stormy Euxine." "History and poetry," he says, "have invested this sea with extraordinary and ideal terrors; but my experience, both of the Mediterranean and Black Sea, was unfortunate for realising historical and poetical accounts. I have known the beautiful Mediterranean a sea of storm and sunshine, in which the storm greatly predominated. I found the stormy Euxine calm as an untroubled lake; in fact," he adds, with American sauciness (for Lakes Superior, Huron, and Ontario, make them despise our driblets of waters), "the Black Sea is in reality nothing more than a lake, not so large as many of our own." Not meeting with a 'storm on the Black Sea, he tries to pick a quarrel with the memory of Fulton. "We boast of thee," he thus apostrophises the departed Odessa, which is situated in a small bay between the mouths of man—“I have myself been proud of thee as an American; but as the Dnieper and the Dniester, is quite a recent city, consisting, I sat at evening on the stern of the steamer, and listened to the only forty years ago, of a few fishermen s huts, on the shores of the clatter of the engine, and watched the sparks rushing out of the Black Sea. It now abounds with merchants' hotels, has an operahigh pipes, and remembered that this was on the dark and inhos-house, and "beauty and fashion" parade its "boulevards," laid pitable Euxine, I wished that thy life had begun after mine had out "by the precipitous shore of the sea." ended! I trust I did his memory no wrong; but if I had borne him malice, I could not have wished him worse than to have all his dreams of the past disturbed by the clatter of one of his own'engines." Having crossed the western extremity of the Black Sea, from Constantinople on its southern, to Odessa on its northern shores, he found himself stopped on his entrance into the Russian empire, by the plague of quarantine-the fear of one plague producing another. Quarantine flags were flying about the harbour of Odessa; "the yellow indicating those undergoing purification, and the red the fatal presence of the plague." Mr. Stephens was

A journey of nearly two thousand miles now lay before Mr. Stephens. He was about to start from Odessa to Moscow and St. Petersburgh, from the shores of the Black Sea to those of the Baltic, moving from south to north, through the heart of the Russian empire; "through a country more than half barbarous, and entirely destitute of all accommodation for travellers." He and a companion bought a carriage, and hired a swaggering Frenchman as a servant and guide, who, as it afterwards turned out, scarcely knew as much Russian as to order changes of horse and money, provision and bed. The setting out was inauspicious. Mr.

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Stephens and his companion, an Englishman, had a quarrel
'upon a point unnecessary here to mention," which went so high,
that Mr. Stephens offered to break up the arrangement between
them; which the other not unreasonably refused to do, seeing the
travellers had conjointly bought a carriage, hired a servant, and
had got their passports made out together. "But," says Mr.
Stephens, "men cannot be driving their elbows into each other's
ribs, comparing money accounts, and consulting upon the hundred
little things that present themselves on such a journey, without
getting upon, at least, sociable terms; and before night of the
first day the feelings of my companion and myself had undergone
a decided change."

Away they went, over the vast southern plain of Russia: but
Monsieur Henri, who had been hired by the day, was in no hurry
to get over the ground. They suspected him to be encouraging
the post-masters not to be very prompt in furnishing horses.
The post-masters are mostly all Jews; and though there is a
certain posting charge fixed by law, travellers, unarmed with offi-
cial terrors, or long-sounding titles, are apt to be considered as
On
mere common rascals, and treated as if they were spunges.
the evening of the first day, the travellers arrived at the little town
of Vosnezeuski, a Cossack town on the river Bog. They wanted to
go on, but could not get horses, unless at an enhanced rate; alter-
cation ensued, but the post-master laughed at threats; to punish
Henri for his supposed connivance, he was ordered to the box of
the carriage, to spend the night, and the travellers resolved to
sleep inside: " but, to tell the truth, we felt rather cheap as we
in
woke during the night, and thought of the Jew sleeping away
utter contempt of us, and our only satisfaction was in hearing an
occasional groan from Henri." The impudent Jew, in the morning,
asked a few roubles as a douceur. Good English would have been
thrown away upon him, so Mr. Stephens resented it by drawing up
the window of the carriage, and scowling at him through the glass.
They now crossed the great southern steppes of Russia, passing
droves of cattle, and trains of waggons, fifty or sixty together,
transporting merchandise toward Moscow, or grain toward the
Black Sea. They met no travellers, except a seigneur, who, with
his family, was returning from Moscow to his estate in the country.
His equipage consisted of four carriages, with six or eight horses
to each; the baggage containing beds, and cooking utensils-an
equipment in caravan style, somewhat the same as for a journey in
the desert, the traveller carrying with him provision and every-
thing necessary for his comfort, as not expecting to procure any-
thing on the road, nor to sleep under a roof during the whole
journey. He stops when he pleases, and his servants prepare his
meals, sometimes in the open air, but generally at the post-house.
"We had," says Mr. Stephens, "constant difficulties with Henri
and the post-masters; but, except when detained an hour or two
by these petty tyrants, we rolled on all night, and in the morning
again woke upon the same boundless plain."

On the fourth day after leaving Odessa, the travellers entered Chioff, (Kiev,) the ancient capital of Russia. It is on the banks of the Dnieper, and stands at a great height on the crest of an amphitheatre of hills, which rise abruptly in the middle of an immense plain. "For many centuries it has been regarded as the Jerusalem of the north, the sacred and holy city of the Russians; and long before reaching it, its numerous convents and churches, crowning the summit, and hanging on the sides of the hill, with their quadrupled domes, and spires, and chains, and crosses, gilded with ducat gold, and glittering in the sun, gave the whole city the appearance of golden splendour. The churches and monasteries have one large dome in the centre, with a spire, surmounted by a cross, and several smaller domes around it, also with spires and crosses, connected by pendent chains, and gilded so purely that they never tarnish."

if he could get two, he was determined to try the experiment. The travellers sold their carriage, and got rid of Henri. Their stay in Chioff was rendered pleasant by meeting with a Russian officer, who spoke good English, and was well acquainted with American literature. With him they visited the catacombs of the Petcherskoi monastery, which contains the unburied bodies of the Russian saints. "And year after year, thousands and tens of thousands come from the wilds of Siberia, and the confines of Tartary, to kneel at their feet and pray." On their way to Moscow, the traveller passed great numbers of pilgrims, upwards of fifty thousand having that year visited the catacombs, coming from every part of the immense empire of Russia. "I have seen," says Mr. Stephens, "the gathering of pilgrims at Jerusalem, and the whole body moving together, from the gates of the city, to bathe in the Jordan; and I have seen the great caravan of forty thousand true believers, tracking their desolate way through the deserts of Arabia to the tomb of the Prophet at Mecca: but I remember, as if they were before me now, the groups of Russian pilgrims strewed along the road, and sleeping under the pale moonlight, the bare earth their bed, the heavens their only covering."

"With

They started from Chioff in the diligence, happy in the thought of being delivered from the annoyances of post-masters. great pomp and circumstance, we drove through the principal streets, to advise the Knickerbockers of Chioff, of the actual departure of the long-talked-of diligence; the conducteur sounding his trumpet, and the people stopping in the streets, and running to the doors, to see the extraordinary spectacle."

They were seven days on their way from Chioff to Moscow, the diligence everywhere creating a "sensation," but picking up no passengers; though one "spirited individual" said, that if it would wait three days, he would go on with it! We must skip, at present, over our traveller's adventures in Moscow, Petersburgh, and Warsaw, as we shall have occasion to return to this quarter of the world. The present "Incidents of Travel" close with a visit to the salt-mines of Wielitska, about twelve miles from Cracow. The next set of "Incidents" were, as we have already stated, published previous to the preceding, though following them in point of time. In December, 1835 (he does not give the particular date), " after a passage of five days from Malta, I was perched up in the rigging of an English schooner, glass in hand, and earnestly looking for the land of Egypt. The captain had never been there before, but we had been running several hours along the low coast of Barbary, and the chart and compass told us we could not be far from the fallen city of Alexander. Night came on, however, without our seeing it. The ancient Pharos, the lantern of Ptolemy, the eighth wonder of the world, no longer throws its light far over the bosom of the sea to guide the weary mariner. Morning came, and we found ourselves directly opposite the city, the shipping in the outward harbour, and the fleet of the Pacha riding at anchor under the walls of the Seraglio, carrying me back in imagination to the days of the Macedonian conqueror, of Cleopatra, and the Ptolemies."

"The present city of Alexandria, even after the dreadful ravages made by the plague last year, is still supposed to contain more than 50,000 inhabitants, and is decidedly growing. It stands outside the Delta in the Libyan Desert, and, as Volney remarks, It is only by the canal which conducts the waters of the Nile into the reservoirs in the time of inundation, that Alexandria can be considered as connected with Egypt.' Founded by the great Alexander, to secure his conquests in the East, being the only safe harbour along the coast of Syria or Africa, and possessing peculiar commercial advantages, it soon grew into a giant city: fifteen miles in circumference, containing a population of 300,000 citizens, and as many slaves; one magnificent street, 2000 feet broad, ran the whole length of the city, from the Gate of the Sea to the Canopie Gate, commanding a view, at each end, of the shipping, either in the Mediterranean or in the Mareotic Lake, and another of equal At Chioff (properly Kiev) they heard of a diligence for Moscow, length intersected it at right angles; a spacious circus without the and went to the office of the proprietor about it. He said that Canopie Gate, for chariot-races, and on the east a splendid gymnathe attempt to run a diligence was discouraging; that he had ad-sium, more than six hundred feet in length, with theatres, baths, vertised two weeks, and had not booked a single passenger; but and all that could make it a desirable residence for a luxurious

people. When it fell into the hands of the Saracens, according to the report of the Saracen general to the Calif Omar, it was impossible to enumerate the variety of its riches and beauties;' and it is said to have contained four thousand palaces, four thousand baths, four hundred theatres or public edifices, twelve thousand shops, and forty thousand tributary Jews.' From that time, like everything else which falls in the hands of the Mussulman, it has been going to ruin, and the discovery of the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope gave the death-blow to its commercial greatness. At present it stands a phenomenon in the history of a Turkish dominion. It appears once more to be raising its head from the dust. It remains to be seen whether this rise is the legitimate and permanent effect of a wise and politic government, combined with natural advantages, or whether the Pacha is not forcing it to an unnatural elevation, at the expense, if not upon the ruins, of the rest of Egypt. It is almost presumptuous, on the threshold of my entrance into Egypt, to speculate upon the future condition of this interesting country; but it is clear that the Pacha is determined to build up the city of Alexandria if he can : his fleet is here, his army, his arsenal, and his forts are here; and he has forced and centred here a commerce that was before divided between several places. Rosetta has lost more than two-thirds of its population. Damietta has become a mere nothing, and even Cairo the Grand has become tributary to what is called the regenerated city."

From Alexandria he went to Cairo, where he had the usual traveller's interview with Mohammed Ali, the Pacha of Egypt. He then sailed up the Nile, as far as the Lower Cataracts. This has become so common a route, that Mr. Stephens considers the excursion to be a ridiculously cheap one, an amusement attended with no degree of danger. A boat manned with ten men may be procured for thirty or forty dollars a-month, provisions are cheap, and, says our traveller, addressing his countrymen, "You sail under your own country's banner; and when you walk along the river, if the Arabs look particularly black and scowling, you proudly feel that there is safety in its folds." On his return to Cairo, he planned a more daring "excursion." He wished to visit Mount Sinai, and then to proceed to Palestine, but, by taking the usual route, he would have been subjected to a quarantine of fourteen days on account of the plague in Egypt. He therefore resolved to strike through the heart of the Desert, lying between Mount Sinai and the frontier of Palestine; in fact, to attempt a feat which had not been accomplished by any European traveller, to cross or pass through the land of Idumea, the Edom of the Scriptures, and the subject of remarkable prophecies. He was strongly advised not to attempt it, on account of the danger; the only person who encouraged him was the American consul, and but for

him the idea would have been abandoned.

It happened that the Sheik of Akaba, the chief of a bold and powerful tribe of Bedouins, was then at Cairo, for the purpose of escorting and protecting the annual caravan of pilgrims from that city to Mecca. An arrangement was made with the Sheik, by which he promised to conduct Mr. Stephens from Akaba to Hebron, through the land of Edom, diverging to visit the celebrated city of Petra. It was settled, that after Mr. Stephens had visited Mount Sinai he should go to Akaba, where the escort of the Arab chief would meet and conduct him; and the latter gave the traveller his signet, which he told him would be respected by all Arabs

on the route from Cairo to Mount Sinai.

The arrangements for the journey as far as Mount Sinai had been made for Mr. Stephens by the American consul. A Bedouin was procured as guide who had been with M. Laborde to Petra, and whose faith, as well as capacity, could be depended upon. The caravan consisted of eight camels and dromedaries, with three young Arabs as drivers. The tent was the common tent of the Egyptian soldiers, bought at the government factory, being very light, easily carried and pitched. The bedding was a mattress and coverlet provision, bread, biscuit, rice, macaroni, tea, coffee, dried apricots, oranges, a roasted leg of mutton, and two large skins containing the filtered water of the Nile. Thus equipped, the party struck immediately into the desert lying between Cairo and Suez, reaching the latter place, with but little incident, after a journey of four days. At Suez our traveller, wearied with his

experiment of the dromedary, made an attempt to hire a boat, with a view of proceeding down the Red Sea to Tor, supposed to be the Elino, or place of palm-trees, mentioned in the Exodus of the Israelites, and only two days' journey from Mount Sinai. The boats, however, were all taken by pilgrims, and none could be pro. cured, at least for so long a voyage. He accordingly sent off his camels round the head of the gulf, and crossing himself by water, met them on the Petrean side of the sea. Resuming his journey to the southward, he passed safely through a barren and mountainous region, bare of verdure, and destitute of water, in about seven days, to Mount Sinai. From thence he went to Akaba, where he met the Sheik, as by agreement. A horse of the best breed of Arabia was provided, and, although suffering from ill health, he proceeded manfully through the desert to Petra and Mount Hor. The difficulties of the route proved to be chiefly those arising from the rapacity of his friend, the Sheik of Akaba, who threw a thousand impediments in his way with the purpose of magnifying the importance of the service rendered, and obtaining, in consequence, the larger allowance of bucksheesh.

"One," says Mr. Stephens, "might expect to find these children of nature, the Arabs, free from the reproach of civilised life-the love of gold. But, fellow-citizens and fellow-worshippers of Mammon! hold up your heads, the reproach must not be confined to you. I never saw anything like the expression of face with which a Bedouin looks upon silver and gold. When he asks for bucksheesh, and receives the glittering metal, his eyes sparkle with wild delight, his fingers clutch it with eager rapacity, and he skulks away like the miser to count it over alone, and hide it from all other eyes." Speaking of the Arabs generally, he says, " One by one I had seen the many illusions of my waking dreams fade away, the gorgeous pictures of oriental scenes melt into nothing: but I had still clung to the primitive simplicity and purity of the children of the desert, their temperance and abstinence, their contented poverty and contempt for luxuries, as approaching the true nobility of man's nature, and sustaining the poetry of the 'land of the East.' But my last dream was broken; and I never saw among the wanderers of the desert any traits of character, or any habits of life, which did not make me prize and value more the privileges of civilisation. I had been more than a month alone with the Bedouins, and to say nothing of their manners-excluding women from all companionship, dipping their fingers up to the knuckles in the same dish, eating sheep's insides, and sleeping under tents crawling with vermin engendered by their filthy habits-their temperance and frugality are from necessity not from choice; for in their nature they are gluttonous, and will eat at any time till they are gorged of whatever they can get, and then lie down and sleep like brutes."

The account given by Mr. Stephens of the excavated city of Petra is similar to the descriptions given by Laborde, and the few other travellers who have visited it. The reader is, doubtless, familiar with the general appearance and character of this far-famed city. Leaving Petra he started for Hebron, from whence he took the ordinary route of travellers in the Holy Land; went to Bethlehem and Jerusalem, visiting the Jordan and the Dead Sea, and proceeding by Capernaum and Nazareth to Mount Carmel, from thence to Tyre and Sidon, from whence he sailed for Alexandria.

CHANGE SHOULD BREED CHANGE.
NEW doth the sun appear,
The mountain snows decay;

Crown'd with frail flowers forth comes the infant year:
My soul, time posts away,
And thou yet in that frost,
Which flower and fruit hath lost,
As if all here immortal were, dost stay;
For shame! thy powers awake,

Look to that heaven which never night makes black,
And there, at that immortal sun's bright rays,
Deck thee with flowers, which fear not rage of days.
Drummond of Hawthornden.

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