vicinity of the city, was wretchedly bad; the carriage, too, was as uncomfortable an invention as could be well imagined, there being but one narrow wooden seat, slung in the centre of the vehicle upon straps, with two rude wooden springs to support it; upon this two of our party took up a position, while another who volunteered to drive sat in a chair in front, and two others occupied chairs in rear of the centre seat, while a little curly-headed negro was posted upon one of the shafts, where he sat grinning and holding on like a monkey, his dusky skin forming a charming contrast to an old gray mare which was to draw us. Our time being short, the whip was not spared; so that we were whirled along, rolling and pitching about through thick and thin, and wherever a drain or deep water-course crossed the road, the carriage giving a heavy lurch, and all the chairs shooting forward with one consent, our volunteer coachman was nearly precipitated on to the horse's back, and the two in rear of the centre seat, not having any thing to plant their feet firm against, were thrown on to the backs of those occupying the seat in

It was, indeed, a broad caricature of " travelling in the south of Ireland," and we were right glad to gain the outskirts of the city in safety, and abandon the uneasy conveyance, leaving it in charge of our sable attendant.

While one of the party went to sound the ship-owners if we could remain ashore during the night, and until the vessel reached town, the rest of us (after walking about the dimly lighted squares and streets, with which we were soon fatigued, our feet being tender from the little exercise we had taken of late) proceeded to an oyster-cellar, and there awaited our sentence with great calmness, discussing the various merits of English natives, and American oysters. The latter are so large, that one of our party, who had laid a wager that he could eat a dozen and a half of them, was obliged to cry, "hold! enough!" ere he had arrived at the twelfth. At midnight our spy returned with the doleful tidings that we must return to the ship, and that on the morrow a medical man would inspect it, and set us at liberty. To hear, was to obey; so without any more ado we retraced our weary steps,

pale horse and Dearborn, most patiently awaiting our arrival. The road appeared to have grown either somewhat rougher, or our charioteer did not steer so small (to use a nautical term) as before; but after running a wheel once or twice into the deep ditches, with which the road was flanked, he brought us again to the tavern-door by one o'clock, where the landlord, aroused from his slumbers, soon made his appearance at the bar. Every thing was strange to me; I might truly say I was in a New World; I had heard of American landlords, but, like the road, this man was beyond my conjectures. He came down stairs the very beau ideal of a dandy, with a tiny, little spiral hat, placed knowingly on one side of his head, gold studs, and broach at his breast, watch guardchain round his neck, rings on his finger, with his nether man cased in a pair of red striped "continuations;" and, to crown all, he cursed and swore "like any gentleman." We inquired if the boat had been off for us, and were informed it had been, but had returned to the ship at ten o'clock, as he had told the crew he would fire a signal when we arrived. Thanking him for his kindness, we thought, as a recompense, we were in duty bound to call for something to drink; and a considerable time having elapsed in carrying our good intentions into effect, and seeing no preparations making for firing his promised signal, one of the party asked him if he would favour us by commencing operations. "Aye, aye," said he, "I told the mate I would fire a gun-I would fire a gun in anger when you came; but wait a bit, I'll take a glass myself first," and then with the most admirable sangfroid, he set about making a glass of port-wine sangaree, stirring the sugar about with a small circular piece of wood, to which a handle was attached, and which he twirled about in his white hands with great dexterity. Having quaffed this mixture off to our healths, and welcome to America, he lighted a cigar, offering one at the same time to each of the admiring spectators, and then crossing his arms over his breast à la Napoleon le Grand, he talked of passing events, and asked the news. Like old Hardcastle in the play, I said aside—

and thought his cool assurance must arise from a wish to show off before strangers. I turned away from him, unable to repress a laugh, and, as bad luck would have it, unfortunately saw a dog lying upon the floor, which I stooped down to pat with my hands. Mine host no

sooner saw this movement, than he was out from his bar in a twinkling, holding forth at great length in praise of the animal, which, from his account, possessed all the various qualities of spaniel, greyhound, and pointer combined. "Aye, now there's a dog for you-only look at him-look at his points-there's not a cleverer dog in the Union, I guess-he's half English; when I go out gunning, and shoot a rat or a squirrel, he'll bring it immediately-I would'nt take fifty dollars for him. A gentleman down here, the other day, offered thirty for him off-hand. Here, sir! here sir! come here! now, lie down! lie down, lie dow...n!" The dog leapt up, placing its fore paws on its master's person. "Aye, he's only frightened before company, but I would'nt part with him for a cent, less than fifty." And thus having, in his own opinion, established his dog's reputation, he at last commenced the tedious operation of loading an enormously long barrelled gun, respecting whose good qualities, also, we had to endure a long dissertation, while he was springing the ramrod, and ramming down about three fingers' deep of shot, with as much labour and flourishing movement as there is in loading a twelve-pounder field-piece; and, finally, we had the infinite satisfaction of hearing Washington, or some such nobly-named dusky son of Afric, summoned, who received orders to proceed to the end of the wharf, and fire the long wished-for signal. Shortly afterwards the plash of oars reaching our ears, we bade our loquacious host a long and last farewell, having paid him two dollars and a half (10s. 6d. sterling) for the use of his Dearborn and gray steed ("he would'nt be too hard upon us"), and by half-past two o'clock were once more in our snug cabin.

The sun was high in the heavens the following day before I awoke from strange and troubled dreams of

A medical man coming on board as the anchor was weighing, said he was satisfied with the health of the passengers, and that we had permission to leave the ship, which an hour after mid-day was safely moored alongside one of the city wharfs, and we all stepped ashore with heartfelt joy, having been forty days from Liverpool.

CHAPTER II.

Into one of the sweetest of hotels,

Especially for foreigners

Where juniper expresses its best juice

For downright rudeness, ye may stay at home.

BYRON.

PHILADELPHIA, the reverse of Lisbon, at first presents no beauties; no domes or turrets rise in air to break the uniform stiff roof-line of the private dwellings. And, if I remember right, the only buildings which show their lofty heads above the rest, are the State House, Christ Church (both built prior to the Revolution), a Presbyterian meeting-house, and shot-tower. The city, therefore, when viewed from the water, and at a distance, presents any thing but a picturesque appearance. It is somewhat singular, too, that there should be such a scarcity of spires and conspicuous buildings, there being no fewer than ninety places of worship, besides hospitals and charitable institutions in great numbers. In place, too, of noble piers and quays of solid masonry, which we might reasonably expect to find in a city containing near 140,000 inhabitants, and holding the second rank in commercial importance in North America, there are but some shabby wharfs, and piers of rough piles of timber, jutting out in unequal lengths and shapes, from one end to the other of the river front; and these again are backed by large piles of wood, warehouses, and meanlooking stores. On the narrow space between them and the water are hundreds of negro porters, working at vast heaps of iron bars, barrels of flour, cotton bags, and all the various merchandise imported or exported; singing in their strange broken-English tone of voice, some absurd chorus, such as,

"I met a nigger"-(chorus all) "long time ago!"

"I met a nigger"-(chorus all) "long time ago!"

"I say, where you going?"-(chorus all) "long time ago!" "Pull away, my boys"-(chorus) "yoh! heave-yoh!"