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The road to Blair Atholl passes through the beautiful valley extending from Dunkeld to Logierait, which has been particularly noticed in our First Tour, in describing the road to the former place from the village of Kenmore, with which this road runs nearly parallel, but on the opposite or east side of the river Tay. Leaving Dunkeld, and proceeding northward along the bank of that river, at the distance of five miles, we reach Dowally. Dalguise, Glenalbert, Kincraigie, and Kinnaird, are seen in succession upon the opposite side of the river ; and among the hills, about two miles to the eastward, is Ordie, a small lake, celebrated for its trout. About two miles further on, the straths of the Tay and the Tummel unite, the former stretching westward to Kenmore, the other towards the north. Here also the two great rivers unite ; and, by their confluence, form a tongue of land, upon which stands the village of Logierait, opposite to the village of Ballinluig, through which the road passes.
Between the two villages there is a regular ferry ; and, as Logierait was anciently a place of some consequence, the Tourist
be inclined to visit it. Before the baronial jurisdictions were abolished, this was the seat of justice for the district of Atholl ; and, upon the hill behind the town, malefactors were executed. That such exhibitions were not unfrequent, may be presumed from the fact of a common executioner having been maintained here at the expense of the Duke of Atholl. On the eastern side of the hill is an open terrace, where are still to be seen the traces of a castle, surrounded by a fosse. To this castle Robert II. retired to indulge his grief, after delegating the regal power to his brother the Duke of Albany. A battery is said to have been erected near the castle, upon a spot still called the Cannon Brae. The narrow pass which conducts to the ruins is called Glach-n’-ri, or the King's way. From the summit of the hill, a most extensive view is obtained, comprehending two great valleys, and their mountainous boundaries. The rivers, uniting below, form a grand body of water.
To the right of Ballinluig is seen Tullimet House, (Dr Dick,) and, two miles beyond Ballinluig, the road which proceeds along the east bank of the Tummel, enters Moulinearn, where there is an excellent inn. The celebrated Sheridan, it is recorded, when on a visit to Blair Atholl, here poured out libations of Atholl brose to the rosy god, and was astonished at the sudden hallucination produced by the favourite beverage of this country. A mile beyond Moulinearn is Donavourd, (Macfarlane, Esq.) on the right, and Dunfallandy, (General Fergusson,) on the western bank of the Tummel.
Here the main body of the river makes a sudden turn, forming a number of small islands. Edradour, (Duke of Atholl,) next appears in view, at which place there is a fine waterfall; and at the top of a steep dell are the remains of a circular building, called the Black Castle, about sixty feet in diameter within, and the walls about eight feet thick. It is supposed to have been inhabited by an English Baron, who married a Scottish heiress in the reign of Edward I. Remains of similar towers are to be discovered along the whole of this track. Some conjecture that they were used for making signals by fire in case of invasion ; others think they were Tigh-Fasky, or storehouses for the security of property, in case of sudden inroads. Mr Pennant inclines to the former opinion, and mentions, that he and his fellow-traveller, Mr Stuart, traced a chain of such circular buildings, extending from the Hill of Drummond, near Taymouth, towards the western ocean.
At the village of Pitlochrie, a mile beyond Donavourd and Dunfallandy, a road strikes off to the right by Moulin, through Glen Briarachan and Strathairdle, *
* Moulin is upon the road, if mile from Pitlochrie. In its roman
and another to the left, leading to the Tummel, on the beautiful green banks of which, opposite to Pitlochrie, stands the neat cottage of Fonab, (Macgregor, Esq.) The hills now begin to close in, and a mile and a-half beyond Pitlochrie form a wild and most romantic scene. In the landscape is to be seen Cluny on the west, and Fascally on the east side of the river, both belonging to Archibald Butter, Esq. The latter is seated on a fairy mead, surrounded by wooded and singularly shaped mountains ; screened on one side by plantations, and washed on the other by the furious Tummel, which receives the waters of the Garry at a little distance above. In this neighbourhood is the Fall of Tummel, the best approach to which is by a road a little farther on.
Proceeding onwards, the mountains, among which Ben Vracky rises conspicuous, approximate on every side ; and, a mile beyond Fascally, the Tourist enters the celebrated
PASS OF KILLIKRANKIE,
with a feeling approaching to terror, having his eye upon the summit of Ben-y-Gloe, towering aloft in the distance. This
pass, which has been compared by a noted traveller to the distinguished Vale of Tempe, is formed by two mountainous chains, running parallel, and darkening the waters of the Garry, which rush impetuously through the pass in a fearfully deep and almost invisible channel. At one place, the river is seen struggling through rocks, and dashing over a precipice into a dark pool, displaying a scene of peculiar grandeur. The hills rise
tic neighbourhood are the ruins of the Castle of Moulin, supposed to have belonged to the Cummins, Earls of Atholl and Badenoch. Tradition says that a number of persons infected with the plague were shut up and died in it, on which account the country people are afraid to remove its stones.
abruptly from the river, on each side, and are deeply covered to the summits with every variety of wood, producing even at noon-day the haziness of twilight. So terribly sublime is the scene, that in the Rebellion of 1745, a body of Hessian troops were appalled by it, and refused to march through the pass.
Near the north end of this romantic pass was fought, in 1689, the battle of Killicrankie, between the Highland army, commanded by Viscount Dundee, better known in Scotland by the epithet of Bloody Claverhouse, and the troops of King William, commanded by General Mackay. The descendants of the partizans of the house of Stewart still point with pride to the rude stone at Urrard-House, upon the right, which marks the spot where Dundee fell, in the arms of victory.
The pass * extends northward about half a mile ; beyond it the valley gradually opens to the north, and its highly cultivated and ornamented aspect proclaims the
* At the bridge over the Garry, near the entrance of the Pass, a road conducts to the wild districts of the Tummel and Rannoch. It enters the grounds of Bonskeid, at the opening of the valley of Fin. castle, famous at one time for the number of its castles : the vestiges of fifteen still remain. To see the great fall of the Tummel to the best advantage, the Tourist should enter a path leading to it from a gate near to the bridge. Inferior in height to that of Foyers or the Bruar, it is deemed by many of equal magnificence, on account of its greater body of water. The river descends from a height of sixteen feet, in a snow-white sheet of vast breadth, and with a noise truly appalling. The accompanying scenery of wooded rocks and distant mountains is grand. To the north-west of the fall is a cave in the face of a tremendous rock, to which there is a very difficult passage. Here a party of the Magregors were surprised during their proscription ; after part of them were killed, the rest climbed up a tree, that grew out of the face of the rock, when their pursuers cut down the tree, and precipitated them into the river.
The Tourist, who has time to spare, will be highly gratified by an excursion to the districts of Tummel and Radnoch, to which there is an excellent carriage road. To where Bonskeid-House, (Dr Stewart,) displays its turrets amid deep groves, the Tummel presents a continued succession of rapids, and thunders down a channel confined within lofty banks, shaded with woods. About two miles within the val.
ley is the house of Fincastle ; and proceeding by the northern bank of the river, the road passes Alean, (Col. Stewart,) on the left, and on the opposite side, Duntaulich, (Dr Stewart,) near the eastern extremity of Loch Tummel. The road ascends an eminence, when a most magnificent prospect bursts upon the sight. The lake, with its bold headlands and long retiring bays, its sloping banks terminating in broad and wavy ridges, are all spread out to view, and
appear encom. passed by forests and mountains. On the opposite shore, the heights of Ferragon, and the simple but huge bulk of Schihallien, rise in full view. Westward appear the rising grounds of Mount Alexander ; beyond which are seen the lofty hills of Lochaber. At the lower end of the lake are two wooded eminences ; past them the river creeps in silence, and as it were by stealth, from the lake.
Proceed by the north side of Loch Tummel, and pass, near to its western extremity, Portnellan, (Miss Stewart ;) and about four miles further, cross the military road to Inverness, at the bridge of Tum. mel, where there is a small inn. The face of the country is now gloomy and mountainous, till we come to Dun Alister, or Mount Alexander, the residence of the Robertsons of Struan. Here the poet of that name, a determined Jacobite, found refuge from the political storms which devastated his country, and composed several of his poetical pieces. The Mons Alexander is a wooded eminence. At the foot of it, in the garden, is the Argentine, a small mineral spring, extolled in the poetry of Struan. On the opposite side of the river, Crossmount, (Stewart, Esq.) is within view.
Proceeding onward, Loch Rannoch comes in sight. The lake fills nearly ten miles of a strait valley, about twenty miles in length, and two and a-half in breadth ; its shores are beautifully indented by sweeps of mountains and wooded points of land, running far into the lake. The mountains on the north side are very high, and their steep sides, wherever the crags will permit, are cultivated. In other places, the rocks on the coast are clothed with birch and pine. On the south is another range of lofty mountains, covered with forests ; and westward, in the extreme distance, the mountains of Breadalbane and Argyll hide their summits in the clouds that rise from the Atlantic. Pass Loch Garry-House, (M'Donald, Esq.) and, on the opposite bank of the Tummel, Temper, (Stewart, Esq.) Dalchosnie, (Macdonald, Esq.) and Invercholden, (Stewart, Esq.) the latter situate at the foot of a romantic rock overlooking the lake, and on which is the burying-place of the Invercholden family. Reach the village of Kinloch