INVERLEITHEN,* rapidly rising into notice as a watering-place, from the celebrity of its springs, in quality resembling those of Harrowgate. A veranda and other accommodations have been provided for the use of those who use the water; but the want of public rooms is still severely felt by the numerous summer visitants. We hope that some spirited individual will step forward and get these established upon a scale suitable to the accommodation required. Here is a woollen manufactory, giving employment to the younger branches of the inhabitants. The situation of this village, in a sequestered vale, is most delightful, having the Tweed in front, and the woods of Traquair ascending to the summits of the opposite hills. On a rising ground immediately adjoining the village, are the ruins of a fortification, with three lines of circumvallation, and inclosing more than an acre of ground. No cement appears to have been employed in uniting the stones, of which an enormous quantity had been collected to form the lines. Every eminence almost in this parish has its ruined circular fort, hence denominated rings by the common people, and sometimes most absurdly, Roman Camps. Crossing the Leithen, Traquair House, the principal seat of the Earl of Traquair, is seen on the opposite bank * A new road is making from Inverleithen to Edinburgh up the Leithen, about seven miles, by a pass called the Piper's Grave, hence down the Heriot Water by Dewar, where it turns to the left by Garvald, and joins the present Carlisle road at Middleton Bridge, about twelve miles from Edinburgh. This will by no means be an unpleasant road when opened, and will bring Edinburgh and Inverleithen within a morning's ride of each other. The new bridge across the Tweed is now completed, so that the romantic scenery about St Ronans and Traquair House, and at a few miles distance, the Glen, the delightful residence of William Allan, Esq. may thus be enjoyed without inconvenience. of the Tweed; the mansion is highly picturesque, and of very remote antiquity. On the side of the hill overlooking the lawn are fine thorn trees, the interesting vestige of that thicket, famous in song as "The Bush aboon Traquair.” At a short distance upon the right is Pirn, (Horsburgh, Esq.;) and three miles further on, the road enters Selkirkshire, passing Holilee, (Ballantyne, Esq.) upon the left. At the distance of a mile on the opposite side of the river, is Elibank Tower in ruins. The family was ennobled in the person of Sir Patrick Murray, 1642, one of the six peers that opposed the surrendering of Charles I. to the English Parliament. The scenery around is wild and pastoral. Two miles further on, also upon the right, is Ashiesteel, once the abode of Sir Walter Scott, Bart. and celebrated in his poetry. A mile beyond this, the road crosses Caddon Water, and joins that from Edinburgh to Selkirk at the village of Clovenfords. Two miles further on, it passes Fairnalie, (Pringle, Esq.) on the left, and Yair, the seat of Alexander Pringle, Esq. of Whitebank, delightfully situate on the opposite bank; then crosses the Tweed, now a deep and noble river, overhung with wood, by Yair Bridge. A mile beyond the bridge, on the left is Sunderland Hall, (Miss Plummer.) Leaving the banks of the Tweed, the road, at the distance of other two miles, crosses the river Ettrick ; and, half a mile further, enters the royal burgh of SELKIRK, pleasantly situate upon rising ground, to the northward looking down upon the Ettrick, and having in view the River Tweed, flowing through beautiful plantations.* About a mile from Selkirk, and to the eastward of a rising ground covered with copsewood, called Hareheadwood, on the northern bank of the river Ettrick, is the plain of Philiphaugh, where The citizens of Selkirk, led by their town-clerk, William Brydone, displayed the most heroic valour at the battle of Flodden in 1513. The standard taken by them on that occasion is to be seen in possession of the corporation of weavers, and is annually carried by them in procession when riding their marches. Brydone's sword is still in the possession of his lineal descendant. After this battle, so fatal to the nobility of Scotland, the English entirely destroyed the town by fire. In 1535-6, James V. granted many new privileges to the corporation. The charter proceeds in the common form, to erect anew the town into a royal burgh. This charter he confirmed when of age, April 8, 1538, by a second charter, extending those privileges, and adding other grants " For the gude, trew, and thankful service done and to be done to ws be owre lovittis." The many marks of royal favour conferred upon the burgh by the young king are sufficient proof of the value attached to their valour displayed on Flodden Field. The beautiful ballad of " The Flowers of the Forest," was composed on the loss sustained by the citizens of Selkirk, at Flodden. At a much earlier period, the archers of Selkirk or Ettrick Forest distinguished themselves at the fatal battle of Falkirk, fought by Wallace against Edward I. in 1298; they were commanded by Sir John Stewart of Bonkill, brother to the Steward of Scotland, and many fell around the dead body of their gallant leader. There are few remains of this ancient forest, the favourite chase of the Scottish kings, the country, excepting the banks of some romantic stream or secluded dell, having been completely denuded of its natural wood. The population of the town and parish is about 2700. Montrose's army was surprised and dispersed by the covenanters, commanded by General David Lesley, in 1645. The estate of Philip haugh continues in possession of the family of its ancient proprietor, "The bold Outlaw, Murray," the hero of the ancient border ballad. Selkirk gives the title of Earl to a branch of the family of Douglas. Adjoining the town is The Haining, the seat of Pringle, Esq. of Clifton, pleasantly situated amidst woods, with a fine sheet of water in front of the mansion.* A detour up the Yarrow may be interesting. If the Tourist intends to undertake it, (he will do well to carry with him provender both for himself and horse,) he must return and cross the Ettrick, and take the first turning on the left; pass through Philiphaugh, the scene of the last pitched battle fought by the celebrated Montrose, and here he sustained a signal defeat; a little farther on, at the junction of the Ettrick and the Yarrow, is the fairy scenes of Carterhaugh, the scene of the old ballad of "Young Tam-Lein, and the habitation of the angelic Mary Lee." Here the peasantry still point out some of those rings in the green sward, supposed by them to be traces of fairy revels. On this plain, they say, were placed the stands of milk and of water, in which young Tam-Lein was dipped, with a view to his disenchantment. A mile further up the Yarrow is Bowhill, surrounded by plantations, a favourite seat of the Buccleuch family. At the distance of little more than another mile higher up, on a peninsula formed by the Yarrow, amid wild and beautiful scenery, stand the romantic ruins of Newark Castle, built by James the Second, once a favourite huntingseat of the kings of Scotland. Its form is that of a ponderous square tower, surrounded by a wall, and defended by flanking turrets; the royal arms of Scotland are on a stone on the western side of the tower; the Buccleuch family hold the castle in perpetuity by royal grant; the surrounding scenery is highly delightful, and the banks of the Yarrow romantic. It is supposed by many to be the birth-place of the celebrated Mary Scott, the "Flower of Yarrow," for whose hand even foreign nobles contended; but the more general opinion is, that she was the daughter of Scott of Dryhope, and married Scott of Harden. Her daughter, according to this tradition, married Elliott of Stobs, known in song as "Gibbie with the golden garters." Gibbie finding it inconvenient to take his wife home after the nuptials, prevailed with Harden to lodge her for some time, upon condition that he was to receive for her board the plunder gained during the first harvest moon, a condition highly characteristic of the licentious spirit of the age, when every chief was a freebooter, and the lady used to hint the want of provisions to the males of the family by placing a pair of spurs upon the table before them. Newark Castle, it will be recollected, is the principal scene of Sir Walter Scott's beautiful poem, Leaving Selkirk for Melrose, the road runs along the south bank of the Ettrick, and at the distance of about "the Lay of the Last Minstrel." In the court of the castle, a number of the royalist prisoners, taken at the battle of Philiphaugh, were shot by the orders of General Lesley. Mungo Park, the celebrated African traveller, was born at Fowlshiels, a farm-house on the banks of the Yarrow, opposite Newark Castle, and resided here previous to his last and fatal undertaking. Passing Broadmeadows, (Boyd, Esq.) a handsome modern house, most delightfully situate, and some genteel farm houses in a richly wooded and romantic country, reach the manse and church of Yarrow. The church is nearly two hundred years old, but underwent a complete repair some years since. Proceeding westwards, the first objects that attract attention are two huge obelisks facing each other, at about a quarter of a mile's distance, on a moor above the church; the westmost is covered over with barbarous Latin in Saxon characters, miserably engraven, and almost illegible; but it appears that a John Scott and his brother or brothers either fell or were buried here. It is supposed to have been the scene of mortal combat between the young men of the families of Harden and Gilmanscleugh, celebrated in an old song, "The dowy dens of Yarrow," and in a modern ballad by the Ettrick Shepherd. The ridge where these obelisks stand is called Annan Street, a singular name for a bare moor, on the banks of the Yarrow; proceeding still westward, pass a number of snug cottages, and the farm house of Mount Benger, the late residence of the far-famed Ettrick Shepherd. Leaving Mount Benger on the right, cross the Douglas, issuing from the mountains towards the north. It is noted for the abundance of its trout, and has its name from an old residence of the Black Douglas on its banks. Here visit the tower of Dryhope, the birth-place and maiden residence of the celebrated Mary Scott, the flower of Yarrow; it is a tall square keep, like all the baronial towers in this country. On the left, across the Yarrow, observe Altrive cottage. This is a most attractive spot, and belongs to the Ettrick Shepherd. Here the Tourist may reckon on a hearty welcome. The Tourist now approaches St Mary's Loch, a fine sheet of water, surrounded with hills of a bold and distinct outline; the road skirts the lake,—the grave of the notorious Mess John Birnam, a little off the road. "That wizard priest whose bones are thrust It was opened about ten years ago by some gentlemen from Edinburgh, and part of his remains and relics of his enchanting gear discovered. |