with Monmouth, attempted an invasion of the kingdom, brought with him from Holland three frigates, arms and ammunition. Having collected at Dunstaffnage an army of 3000 men, he ordered his ships round to Ellen-Greig, which he fortified, and placed his stores there, under protection of his ships, and a garrison of 180 men. Soon afterwards, three ships of war, and some frigates, in the service of King James, arrived at the island, to whom the Earl's frigates and garrison immediately surrendered. In the castle were found 5000 stand of arms, 500 barrels of gunpowder, several cannon, and other stores. The castle was blown up, and the catastrophe proved fatal to the expedition, and to the noble Earl, who soon afterwards was made prisoner near the mouth of the Cart river, in Renfrewshire.

The steam-boat now holds a southerly course until the bold point of Ardlamont is passed. Here the Kyles of Bute terminate, and the great Loch Fine opens from the ocean. On the left is seen the beautiful little island of Inchmarnoch, extending about a mile, and containing the ruins of a chapel. On the right is the house of Lamont, (General Lamont ;) and half-way betwixt it and Tarbert is Skate island. The coast of Cantyre, upon the left, appears wild and precipitous; and at East Tarbert, where the steam-boats call, vegetation appears to have almost ceased. Tarbert is a thriving village, situate upon an isthmus, about a mile in breadth, which divides the long peninsula of Cantyre from Knapdale, another division of Argyllshire. The entrance to the harbour of East Tarbert is very critical; but, when once entered, it is remarkably secure. On the left it is overlooked by the castle of Tarbert in ruins, perched upon a lofty rock.* Here James the Fourth sojourned when on a tour to subdue his rebellious subjects.

• Every Thursday a packet sails from the head of West Loch Tarbert to Port Askaig, in the island of Islay, taking in passengers and goods for Islay, Jura, and Colonsay islands,-to be noticed in the following Tour.

Leaving Tarbert, the coast maintains its rugged character towards Inverneil, in approaching which it gradually improves. Within three miles of the basin of the Crinan Canal, is Maoldhu, the extremity of the mountain Sliamhgaoil, or Hill of Love, on which Ossian's Dermid, the progenitor of the Campbells, is said to have been killed. The basin of the Canal is approached; and, at the distance of two miles, are seen the beautiful mansion of Oakfield, and the village of Lochgilphead. Leaving the Canal basin, at the point of Ardrissaig, (where is a village, and steam-boats land and receive passengers,) the mouth of Loch Gilp is crossed; Kilmory and Castleton are successively seen upon the left; and, passing the point of Silvercraigs, proceed up Loch Fine. On the right, Kilfinan church, and Gordonbank, (M'Leod, Esq.;) and farther on, upon the same side, the ferry of Otter, and Otter-House, (Campbell, Esq.) Three miles farther, upon the left, is Lochgair-House, (Campbell, Esq.;) and other three miles, upon the same side, is Minard, (Campbell, Esq. ;) opposite is Castle Lachlan, (M'Lachlan, Esq.) in ruins, with the elegant modern mansion of the same name. Next appears, on the left, Crarae Inn; and two miles farther, upon the same side, Goatfield and a deserted iron-foundery. Three miles in advance is Creggans Ferry on the left, and opposite, Strachur Park, (Mrs General Campbell.) Four miles farther, upon the right, is St Catherine's Ferry ; and, at some distance up the lake, is seen the house of Ardkinglass, (Col. Callander.) As we approach Inverary, the view of the castle and surrounding scenery is very striking.

TOUR IV.

FROM GLASGOW TO FORT-WILLIAM,-AND BY THE CALEDONIAN CANAL TO INVERNESS,-230 MILES."

IN proceeding to Fort-William, the steam-boat pursues the tract described in the former Tour, as far as the basin of the Crinan Canal. This canal traverses the isthmus, five miles in breadth, which is formed by Loch Gilp projecting north-west from Loch Fine, and Loch Crinan stretching eastward from the Sound of Jura; by means of it, vessels passing between the Clyde and the West Highlands avoid the tedious and somewhat dangerous navigation round the Mull of Cantyre, and also save a distance of 120 miles, or rather 240 miles outward and homeward. This canal is nine miles in length, and contains fifteen locks, each ninety-six feet long; it was completed about seventeen years ago.

The vessel enters the sea-lock, and passes three others. A mile from the basin, there is seen the tomb of a Mr Campbell, erected on the site of an old chapel; and a complete view is obtained of the village of Lochgilphead, of Kilmory, (Campbell, Esq.) and several farm-steadings upon the right. A mile farther on is the beautiful mansion of Oakfield, (- —- Esq.) upon the left. The canal passes through an extensive marsh, and on the right is seen the great road running towards the coasts of Lorn and Appin. Five miles farther, is a view of the great Crinan moss, watered by the river Add; also the conical hill of Dunad, on the top of which are the remains of an alarm tower. The moss contains many marine substances, and its surface presents a number of

* A steam-boat plies every Monday and Thursday, while the Crinan Canal is open, from Glasgow, calling at Oban to meet the Inverness boat.

tumuli and cairns, pointing out the graves of warriors. The village of Ballanach is passed upon the left, from whence there is a road to Keil's Ferry, twelve miles distant, between which and the islands of Jura and Islay, there is a regular communication. On leaving the canal, we enter Loch Crinan ; * upon the right is Dun

* From Crican, boats are readily procured for visiting Jura, Islay, Colonsay, and Oronsay.

Jura extends twenty-two miles in length, and is of the average breadth of five. It is the most rugged of the Hebrides, being com. posed of huge rocks, piled one upon the other, to a great height. The chief mountains are in the centre of the island, extending in a ridge from north to south. These are the paps of Jura, so called from their mammillary form. The most southern is Ben Achaolais; the others are Ben-an-Oir, 2420 feet in height; Ben Sheunta, 2359 feet in height, and Corra Ben. Pennant ascended Ben-an-Oir, with great difficulty. On its west side, runs a long narrow stripe of rock, ending in the sea, which is called "the slide of the Old Hag." The view he obtained was most magnificent, cumprehending, to the south, Islay, and the north coast of Ireland; to the east, Gigha, Cantyre, Arran, and the Firth of Clyde, and an amazing tract of mountains, as far as Ben-L.omond and Argyll proper; to the north, Scarba; and westward, Colonsay, Oronsay, Mull, Iona, Staffa, and the neighbouring isles; and still further, the long-extended islands of Coll and Tiree. The west side of the island is uninhabitable; and hence the population, extending to 1264, is confined to the eastern coast, which forms an agreeable The shore is indented with creeks and bays, and the pasture and arable grounds are spread out on a declivity, and terminate at the base of the mountains, which form a romantic and awful back-ground. In the island, there is a great abundance of iron-ore, and a vein of the black oxide of manganese. On the west coast, is found a great deposit of a fine kind of sand, which is carried away for the manufacture of glass; and, on the same coast, are some remarkable caves. The mountains abound with several kinds of deer, grouse, and black game, besides large herds of sheep and goats. There is a small fishing vil lage on the east coast, called Lagg, from which a road, southward, conducts round the island to Feoline, the ferry to Islay. There are a number of duns, or ruined forts, upon the island; but the most remarkable vestige of antiquity is a large encampment, near the harbour of Small Isles, upon the east coast. It has a triple line of defence, with regular bastions on the land-side.

scene.

The sound between the north extremity of Jura and the small

troon Castle, (Malcolm, Esq.) an ancient building, but modernized in the interior. The surface of the main

Island of Scarba is narrow; and in this sound is the famous Coryvreckan, or whirlpool of Vreckan, named after a Norwegian Prince who perished in it. During the flow of the tide, in stormy weather particularly, its appearance is terrible. Vast openings are formed, which might be imagined to reach to the bottom ;-into these immense bodies of water tumble headlong as over a precipice; then rebound from the abyss, and dashing against the torrents from above, rise foaming to a prodigious height. The noise of the conflict is heard through the surrounding isles. Large vessels, assisted by a stiff breeze, have been known to make their way through the gulf, but to small craft it proves instant destruction.

Islay, the most fertile and best cultivated of all the Hebrides north of Cantyre, is separated from the south-west side of Jura, by a narrow sound, across which there is an excellent ferry from Feoline to Port Askaig. In a bay, on the N. E. side of this sound, the gallant French Admiral Thurot lay at different times, waiting the fit opportunity of an invasion, to be determined by the news he might receive of the success of the Brest squadron. The island is twenty-five miles long, and twenty-two broad. It was the favourite residence of the Lords of the Isles, who were here crowned and anointed by the Bishop of Argyll, and seven inferior priests, in presence of their vassals. In the middle of the island, is Loch Fin-Lagan, there miles in circuit, in which is the islet of Fin-Lagan, and upon it are the ruins of the palace of Macdonald. Near to that islet, is another, called Ilan-na-Corlle, "the Island of Council," where thirteen Judges constantly sat to decide differences among the subjects of Macdonald.

In the parish of Kilchoman, upon the west side, is another lake, with an island, which appears to have been strongly fortified. There are numerous other ruins upon the island. Here was fought the great battle of Loch Gruinard, in 1598, between the M'Donalds and M'Leans, in which the latter were vanquished; also the Benbigger, in which the M'Donalds were opposed and almost cut off by the M'Leans, M'Leods, Camerons, and M'Neils, acting under the orders of James VI. The chieftain, Sir James M'Donald, fled to Spain; but returned in 1620, was pardoned, received a pension, and died the same year at Glasgow. Islay was granted to Campbell of Calder for a yearly feuduty of L. 500 Sterling, which is still paid; but the family afterwards transferred their right to Campbell of Shawfield.

The mineral productions of Islay are lead, copper, and iron; veins of quicksilver have also been found in the moors; limestone and marl