Imagens das páginas
PDF
ePub

and varied form. The Tourist soon reaches the pebbly strand opposite the island, where Fitz-James had his first interview with Helen,

"I well believe,' the maid replied,

As her light skiff approached the side,
'I well believe that ne'er before

Your foot has trode Loch Katrine's shore,''

and gains the summit of a "beaked promontory," about a mile beyond the farm of Brianchoel, where the lake is at its greatest breadth. Looking to the left, he beholds on the bosom of the crystalline lake Helen's Isle, and the interesting scenes he has passed, inverted.* The southern side of the lake is darkened by the broad shade cast upon it from the mountain; six miles of water in length, and two in breadth, with all their immediate concomitants, are directly under the eye; and perhaps this is the best point for deliberately tracing the whole of this matchless scenery; but to enjoy it in perfection, a sail upon the lake is recommended. The view to the westward is terminated by those centinels of enchanted land, the singularly shaped hills of Arrochar, in Argyllshire; from this promontory, the whole scene, including mountains, cliffs, precipices, clouds of every form and tint, the softer accompaniments of woods, grottoes, waterfalls, hills, and the lake itself, with its waterfowl and finny tribe, is so vast, grand, and diversified, that it is contemplated in almost breathless intensity.

The lake is about eight miles in length, one in average breadth, and in some places so deep as 488 feet. Its form is serpentine, and a road conducts along its northern shore to Glengyle, the proprietor of which is regarded by some as the chief of the Clan-Gregor, or Alpine. To

On this Isle Lord Willoughby d'Eresby has erected a rustic grotto, in which is a collection of ancient armour, skins of wild animals, elk horns, &c. A dirk is shown, said to have belonged to Rob Roy.

wards its western extremity its coasts are rocky and precipitous like the eastern, covered with copsewood, and beautifully diversified; here are two or three islands luxuriantly wooded: on one of them are the remains of the castle of Macgregor. But the finest and most varied views of the lake and its magnificent framework are to be obtained from a boat on the bosom of the lake itself. It is only thus that its numerous capes, bays, headlands, and rocky promontories, are to be seen in all their sublime and romantic grandeur. It is then only that the variety of the scene arising from the flickering sunbeam on the rock, the blossomed heath, the trembling aspens, the spray, and the tendrils of endless coppice reflected on the mirrored surface of the lake, can be truly felt. When in the boat the Tourist should shoot across to Coirnan-Uriskin or Goblin Cave, which is approached by a steep and narrow defile. The cave is a vast circular hollow in the mountain at least 600 yards diameter at the top, and gradually narrowing towards the bottom, inclosed on all sides by steep rocks, and almost shut out from the light of day by the shade of the neighbouring cliffs; masses of rock which have tumbled from these cliffs, and the foliage of the trees encompassing it, dispute the approach to its mouth. The interior of this scene is in the highest degree imposing, and here "the angel hymn of Helen" was raised to heaven in pensive sighs. The surrounding scenery where

"No murmur waked the solemn still,
Save tinkling of a fountain rill;

But when the wind chafed with the lake,
A sullen sound would upward break."

This scene is thought by some to surpass the Trosachs, although it is essentially different in its character. The cave derives its name from being the abode of the Urisks, meaning shaggy men, akin to the Lowland Brownie and the English Robin-Good-fellow. There the Douglas

concealed his daughter when he removed her from Roderick Dhu's island. In more recent times it was the haunt of lawless banditti. Above the Goblin Cave, and 800 feet above the lake, is Bealach-nam-bo, or The Pass of Cattle. It may be ascended to from the cave through a narrow opening caused by the fall of a large portion of the rock; this pass has evidently been formed by the disruption of the northern shoulder of the mountain from its body, and is lined on each side by vast precipices. It is overhung with aged birches and other copsewood; and "the whole comprises," to use the words of Sir Walter Scott, "the most sublime piece of scenery that the imagination can conceive." In the highest precipices the black eagle had his eyrie, but he was dislodged about twenty years ago by a Stewart of Glenfinlas, and has not since resumed dominion over the district. By one of the channels formed by the wintry torrent, the adventurous Tourist may reach the summit of the mountain, where he will be amply repaid for his labour by the most extensive and magnificent prospects. These hints are not intended to supersede the necessity of the Tourist applying his mind to the countless beauties that surround him. It is feeling, rather than the reasoning faculty that delights in situations like those described, for one person may view a scene with indifference which will affect another most powerfully; in other words, every one will see it by lights of his own.

*

* It may be proper to state here, that travellers on foot, in place of returning, may pursue their route to Loch Lomond, and visit the beautiful scenery in its neighbourhood. From the boat-house, situate near the head of the lake, on its southern shore, where ponies and guides may be procured if required, there is a rugged path across the heath, a distance of five miles, to Inversnaid Mill, on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Here the Tourist has the choice of two routes, each presenting scenes and objects of great beauty and interest. He may proceed by the steam-boat, which calls here daily at a stated hour, along Loch Lomond, visiting its numerous islands, to Balloch, situate

Having visited the scenery of Loch Katrine, the traveller returning to Callander by Lochs Achray and Vennachar has the scenery reversed, by which his attention will be kept alive and much interest excited. Proceeding from Callander in a westerly direction along the north bank of the Lubnaig, he passes Leney House, (Dr F. Hamilton) on the right, delightfully situate, and soon afterwards the village of Kilmahog, where there is a cemetery, in which formerly stood a chapel dedicated to St Chug; this spot is pointed out by means of a high pole with a bell, which is tolled on the occasion of funerals. On approaching Lubnaig from Callander, the Tourist soon enters the Pass of Leney, one of the grandest entrances into the Highlands. Here is a feast for the ear as well as the eye,-the richest scenery for the one, and the cataract's roar for the other. It is believed the whole Highlands cannot furnish any thing to equal this romantic Pass, where the river in a series of cascades falls upwards of 200 feet. The road winds round the north-east base of Benledi, * and, three miles beyond Callander, Loch Lubnaig appears in view. The road skirts the north shore of the lake, which possesses

at its southern extremity, where carriages are in waiting to convey passengers to Dumbarton, a distance of five miles; from thence he may proceed to Glasgow. The other route, which exhibits a succession of most romantic scenery, is from the ferry at Inversnaid Mill, across Loch Lomond to the Inn of Tarbet, on its western bank, thence to Inverary, and from Inverary by Dalmally, Tyndrum, Killin, and down the course of the Tay, to Dunkeld and Perth. (For the description of Loch Lomond and Inverary, see the Second Tour.)

* Near to the summit of this mountain, there is a small lake called Loch-au-nan-Corp, the small lake of dead bodies, so named from a catastrophe that happened to the attendants of a funeral proceeding from Glenfinlas to a church-yard to the north of the Pass of Leney. The lake was frozen and covered with snow, and in crossing it, the ice gave way, when the whole company, amounting to nearly 200, perished.

much romantic beauty; its banks are steep and rugged, but well wooded, and a long rocky ridge, projected from the base of Benledi, here terminates in a perpendicular precipice, which overhangs the waters of the lake, and exhibits an uncommon style of grandeur. Lubnaig, indeed, has features both of strength and beauty which entitle it to greatly more consideration than it has yet generally received. Nearly opposite to the middle of the lake, at a turn in the road, is Ardchullery, once a favourite hunting-seat of Mr Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller; and here he arranged and finished the account of his travels to the source of the Nile. Towards the

extremity of this beautiful sheet of water, which extends four miles and a half in length, Ben-More appears in view, rising above the broad summits of Balquhidder. The ground stretching along the north shore of the lake is comprehended within Strath-Ire, which was the frontier territory, upon the north, of the powerful Clan-Alpine. Leaving the lake, at the distance of eight miles from Callander, the road enters a level vale, bounded on each side by steep hills; to the left, a range of lofty mountains is observed, with the waters of Loch Voil at their base, and a bridge of several arches, crossing the outlet of the lake, near which is the village of Kirktown of Balquhidder.* At King's House, a road branches off, on the left, to the Braes of Balquhidder, celebrated in Scottish song.

A little farther is Edenchip (Campbell, Esq.) on the left; and thirteen miles and three quarters beyond Callander, the Tourist reaches

* There Rob Roy was interred, and song, as well as history, has conferred interest on Balquhidder; the scenery, too, deserves attention; and the pedestrian may find his way from Loch Voil across the hills to Glenfinlas, and thence to the Trosachs, the distance being about ten miles.

« AnteriorContinuar »