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chief of the Macnabs. The savage gloom of this defile, especially at nightfall, is highly imposing. The road now begins to open on the sublime region of Breadalbane,
Two miles north from this is seen Dunmore, a high hill, on the summit of which are the remains of a strong fortification ; to this plaee Fingal is said to have retreated after his house was burnt by Gara. Four miles east from Fianteach, there is a much larger fort, called Lene. On the adjoining muir there are numberless cairns, one of them called Cairn Comhal, in memory of Fingal's father, was opened lately, and found to contain a large stone coffin. Pass from the Bridge of Buchanty by a cross road, into the valley of Glen-Almond, the picturesque beauties of which exceed the most splendid creations of a poet's fancy. Three miles within the glen, cross the Almond by a bridge at Newton, where a stone is shown, on which are the marks of people's feet, and the hoofs of horses, cows, and sheep ; near this was the tomb of Ossian. It was a coffin of four stones set on edge, with a large massy stone laid over it; the coffin was removed, as was also the stone, when the road was formed in 1746; the stone remains at the side of the road, but the coffin was taken to a sequestered spot in the adjoining mountain ; in this vicinity a number of very remarkable caves are pointed out. From the situation of Crieff, it commands most extensive and varied prospects.
Leaving Crieff for Perth, the road passes Fernton, (Sir David Baird, Bart.) on the side of a richly wooded hill; and a little further on, another road leads off on the left to Monzie. A mile beyond this is Cultoquhey, (Maxton, Esq.) after which appears Inchbrakie (Graeme, Esq.) and next a gateway, leading on the right to Abercairney, the grand new Gothic mansion of James Moray, Esq. descended on the female side from Malise, first Earl of Strathearn, to whom Abercairney belonged. Further on, the road enters the village of Fowlis Wester, where there is a remarkable cross inscribed with hieroglyphics. A mile beyond this, the road looks down on the ruins of the Abbey of Inchaffray, which was founded in 1200, by an Earl of Strathearn and his Countess, and the abbot of which was the custodier of St Fillan's arm at the battle of Bannockburn. A mile further on is Gorthy, (Mercer, Esq.) shortly after which, the road enters the plantations of Balgowan, the seat of Lord Lynedoch ; this charming residence has been highly favoured by nature, and adorned by his Lordship in the most chaste style. Two miles further on stands the populous village of Methven, within seven miles of Perth ; every remaining object of in. terest to the tourist upon this route will be noticed when we come to describe the city of Perth and its environs.
whose mountains are ranged before us as we emerge
from the defile. In the north-east rises Ben-lawers, from which a succession of craggy hills is seen to stretch westward ; and opposite to these appears the majestic BenMore, with Sto-binean, and the distant summit of Ben Loy. The road enters Glendochart, and, at a place called Leeks, joins the road from Tyndrum.* Proceeding along this road in the opposite or north-easterly direction, the Tourist passes on the left the spacious mansion of Achlyne, (Campbell, Esq.) and travels through a fine strath or valley, along which the Dochart holds its course; a pearl fishery in this river, was, many years ago, carried on with success. † Approaching the village of Killin, the Tourist crosses three bridges over the Dochart, which is here divided, by ledges of rock, into as many branches ; and rolls down with great force and considerable violence over vast masses of stone, forming short but quickly repeated cataracts, in a channel of unspeakable rudeness. At this point, the river forms an island, planted with firs, and remarkably picturesque, on which is seen the arched gateway of the tomb of the Macnabs, who have their residence at Kinnel, a short way eastward. After passing the bridge, the Tourist reaches
* The route here given proceeds to the east by Killin, Kenmore, and Dunkeld to Perth. But the Tourist who wishes to follow a diffe. rent route, may turn to the west on joining the road from Tyndrum at Leeks, and after proceeding along the romantic banks of Loch Dochart, as far as Crianlarich Inn, he may proceed either by Tyndrum and Dalmally to Inverary, in the course of which he will see the beautiful scenery of Strath Fillan and Glenary, or by Tarbet, along the west bank of Loch- Lomond to Dunbarton, in the course of which he will have an opportunity of beholding the bold scenery on the banks of that celebrated Jake. The Tourist, after having visited the Trosachs, Loch Katrine, Loch Vennachar, &c. can proceed by any of these routes in a carriage, according as his inclination may lead, or time admit.--Vide Second Tour, Loch-Lomond, &c.
+ The pearls are found in the Mya margaritifera of Linnæus, a species of shell-fish only found in mountainous rivers.
distant about nine miles from Lochearn-head. Here is an inn affording every accommodation.
The romantic village of Killin is situate at the head of Loch Tay, on the banks of the Dochart, near to its junction with the Lochy, in a fertile and well-cultivated plain, enhanced by nearly all that constitutes the sublime in natural scenery. The village, which is large and straggling, is principally inhabited by mechanics and poor people, who, by fishing char and perch, procure a scanty and precarious subsistence.
Killin, in Gaelic, signifies “the burial-place at the waterfall ;” but its inhabitants derive its name from a more illustrious source, viz. the burial place of Fingal, and point out his supposed grave in the neighbourhood. Mr Pennant admired with ecstacy the view from Mount Stroneclachan, a hill above the manse of Killin, near to the village. “ A most delicious plain,” he observes, “ spreads itself beneath, divided into verdant meadows, or glowing with ripened corn ; embellished with woods, and watered with rivers uncommonly contrasted. On
pours down its rocky channel the furious Dochart; on the other, glides, between its wooded banks, the gentle Lochy, forming a vast bend of still water, till it joins the first ; both terminating in the great expanse of Loch Tay.
The northern and southern boundaries suit the magnificence of the lake ; but the former rise with superior majesty in the rugged heights of Finlarig, and the wild summits of the still loftier Laurs, (Ben-Lawers,) often patched with snow throughout the year. Extensive woods clothe both sides, the creation of the noble proprietor."
Loch Tay is about fifteen miles in length, and from one to two in breadth ; and its depth has been computed to be from fifteen to a hundred fathoms.* There is a road on each side of the lake from Killin to Kenmore, a distance of sixteen miles. The north road is the best for carriages ; but by those on foot or horseback, the opposite one ought to be preferred, as affording various delightful views of Ben-Lawers ; the south road also conducts to the fine waterfall of Acharn, that descends over a tremendous precipice into the lake, about two miles west from Kenmore, the Tourist, who chooses the north road, will not neglect to visit this, after he has reached that village ; a hermitage, with appropriate decorations, has been formed, which commands a view of the waterfall.
Proceeding along the northern shore of Loch Tay, which is thickly peopled, the Tourist passes the Castle of Finlarig, seated at the bottom of the hill of that name, amid venerable oaks, vast chestnuts and ash trees, which give it an imposing solemnity. It is an old seat of the Campbells, the knights of Glenorchy, and was built by Sir Colin between the years 1513 and 1523,
* This lake was supposed, like others in the Highlands, to be incapable of freezing ; but during the intense cold of 1771, it was frozen over in one part, from side to side, in the space of a single night. It has been subject, at times, to extraordinary agitations ; on the 12th of September 1784, the water, in the bay of the lake south of Ken. more, receded about five yards, and in a few minutes flowed back to its accustomed boundary; and in this manner ebbed and flowed for a quarter of an hour, when, all at once, the water rushed from the east and west in opposite currents, towards a line across the bay, and there rose in the form of
great wave, to the height of five feet above the ordinary level, leaving the bottom of the bay dry, to the distance of about 100 yards from its natural margin. The wave then flowed slowly westward, diminishing as it went, for the space of five minutes, when it disappeared, the water at the same time returned up the bay, and exceeded its original boundary four or five yards; it again receded and returned, and continued ebbing and flowing for two hours. While this phenomenon was observed in the bay, the river on the north of the village was seen to run back, and the channel to be left dry about eleven feet from either edge ; under the bridge the current fail. ed, and the bed of the river was also left dry; all this time the weather was calm. On the five succeeding days, similar ebbings and flowings took place about the same time ; and on the 15th October they again occurred. On 13th July 1794, the lake was again disturbed, but its agitations were not so violent.
The hospitality of Finlarig is famous in tradition, and here Sir Colin and his descendants lived in rural magnificence, surrounded by their friends and retainers. In later times, when this castle was inhabited by the son of the Chieftain, and the flower of the Clan were assembled in the great hall to celebrate a marriage, in the midst of the festivity, news was brought that the Macdonalds of Glenco were returning, loaded with plunder, from a creach or foray in the low country, and without making the accustomed present to the Chief, through whose lands they were passing, of a part of the spoil. To avenge the affront offered to their Chieftain, the Campbells started from the table, and ascended the hill of Stroneclachan with breathless haste. They were mostly young men ; but one of greater age, and more experience, advised them, when near the summit, to divide, and attack in flank. This advice their youthful ardour despised; with thoughtless bravery they charged in front, when they were overpowered by the Macdonalds, and twenty young gentlemen, cadets of the family of Cainpbell, were left dead on the spot.
An account of this disaster was immediately sent to Taymouth, the residence of the Chieftain, who forwarded a reinforcement to the discomfited party. The Campbells again overtook the party in the Braes of Glenorchy, and defeated the Macdonalds, after killing the brother of Keppoch, who headed the creach.
The road continues beautifully skirted with wood to a considerable distance ; and the habitations of the natives, though mean, are prettily grouped along the sides of the hill; while the opposite shore, less populous and fertile