watching their heaps of corn; and from them we learned, that simply in consequence of our taking a trackless path and then hasting down, we had escaped a band of Arabs who were lurking on the hill, and had plundered and killed several persons the day before. On reaching the village Deberah, where our baggage was, we found our servants, who had gone before us, despairing of our safety. But He that keepeth Israel preserved us, and put a song of praise into our lips. We felt a little of the force of Psalm xxvii. 5, when safely at rest again in our tent praising the Lord. Next day, a similar peril and deliverance awaited us. We reached Nazareth early, and having surveyed the city where the Redeemer lived," as a root (Nezer) out of dry ground," proceeded onward by Sepphoris. About five in the afternoon we entered a valley, which forms the road to Acre, and at the end of which stands a village, Abilene, in a beautiful situation, answering, I think, to the once well-known city Zabulon. In this valley we were told Arabs were lurking: but our only road lay through it. One of our attendants meanwhile, had, unknown to us, returned to the village we had just left, and in trying to join us, missed the common road and entered the valley a short time before us. At the very entrance, he was met by eight armed Arabs on horseback, who seized him, led him up to the hills, bound him hands and feet, and plundered him of every thing, and of the horse he rode. It was at the very moment they were thus occupied with him, that we passed by the spot, and escaped their notice. We found his stick upon the road, but did not know what had become of him,-and knew our danger_only after it was over, when the servant reached us next day at Acre. Thus, again, we felt the immediate providence of our God. We thought of Ezra viii. 22; for we had never carried arms, nor travelled withļa guard ; and we were taught to desire Israel's salvation yet more, on account of the blessing it will bring to these tribes of Ishmael, as written fully in Isaiah lx. 6, 7, "The flocks of Kedar shall come," &c. At Acre, we visited the small synagogue of the Jews; it is perhaps the poorest in the land, because there are very few to support it. We saw in it one aged man, who spends sir hours in prayer every day for his soul. It is the actual sight of such devout, but mistaken men, that most of all excites us to pray, "O that the salvation of Israel were come out of Zion." For we feel that their very prayer is sin: "there is a way that seemeth right unto a man, but the end thereof is the way of death." (Prov. xiv. 12.) Two days after we reached Beyroot in safety, by the road we came, only turning aside to see the pools close by Tyre, said to have been built by Solomon for king Hiram. While there, resting at the waters, we met an individual, who told us that a vast number of the Jews of Safet had actually come down for refuge to Tyre, to wait till the danger passes. They will then return; for they have a deep affection for their holy cities, and count it a merit to raise the voice of prayer even amidst their ruins. They may truly cry, "Thy holy cities are a wilderness !" (Isaiah Ixiv. 10.)

We have thus, through the good hand of our God upon us, visited every town in Palestine (except Jaffa) where is a synagogue of the Jews, or where we heard of any Jews being resident; and we have collected all kinds of information respecting them. We left Beyroot on the 28th, in an Austrian steam-boat, and reached this city on August 1st. We passed Cyprus, where no Jew is permitted to reside, on account of the intolerant bigotry of the Greek inhabitants, occasioned by the treatment which the Jews gave the dead body of the Patriarch at the Revolution. We sailed along that coast of Asia where Paul and Barnabas visited every synagogue and proclaimed Christ; and we read the seven epistles

with great interest as we sailed along. And we saw Patmos, where the beloved disciple saw the visions of God, and heard so often from the Saviour himself, " Behold, I come quickly." It was evening, when we saw it; but its rocks seemed the more significant on that account, as if saying, "there is darkness and shadows over the book written there, that require a coming morning." I thought of Christ seen there last of all on earth, and speaking there for the last time on earth till the day of his glory. It was singularly interesting to be here at a time, when political events seem to indicate the speedy “drying up of the waters of Euphrates," as foretold by the sure word of prophecy. In passing the island of Scio, (see Acts xx. 15, Chios,) we were reminded by four Jews who were with us in the ship, that the famous rabbi, Baal-ha-Turim, was buried there. These four Jews were the same with whom we had the interview on board the vessel on our way to Alexandria. We had met them in Palestine, at Naplouse, and again as they returned home. They asked us for Bibles, as a memorial of one another. I have not room to write at present regarding Smyrna, but shall soon do so, if the Lord prosper our way. "Ye that make mention of the Lord, keep not silence, and give him no rest, till he make Jerusalem a praise in the earth." Believe me, &c.

Lake of Galilee, July 15th.

We are now in our tents by the side of this memorable lake, close by the town of Tiberias. We washed in its waters, and got into the only boat upon it, and now we have just seen the last tint of the setting sun fade from the hills of Bashan, which are full in our view, and there is a deep stillness and serenity on the surface of the lake. We sat in quiet and thoughtful meditation till near midnight, remembering how Jesus twice came to deliver his disciples at the darkest hour; how he walked over the waves and spoke peace. "It is I,"-Is he not thus saying to a sinner, "I am thy salvation?" We could fancy it was on such a night as this, that Peter and the others (John xxi.) went out to fish and caught nothing till next morning. Jesus came and stood on the shore, and said to them as they slowly sailed along, "Children," TEKVIα, "Dear children, have ye any meat?" That chapter of John seemed to us intensely interesting, as we sat together and beheld the scene. We got some of the fish of the lake-" broiled fish," to our evening meal. The lake is clear, and its channel is not muddy, but pebbly. The water is sweet and soft. The edge is generally either bare or fringed with reeds, but occasionally rhododendrons in full bloom and a species of convolvulus form a beautiful border. Part of the plain of Gennesaret is full of these, and in the stream of water that issues from a fountain in the heart of the plain, we saw tortoises swimming in abundance. The hills on the opposite side are very steep, just such as the swine might run down. At the foot of Tabor and other places where we slept, we heard, during night, the cry of wolves, jackals, and leopards, sometimes filling the whole region with their howlings at midnight, illustrating Ezekiel xxxiv. 25, "I will cause the evil beasts to cease out of the land, and they shall dwell safely in the wilderness and sleep in the woods." We visited Nazareth. It is a town shut in with hills, and when in it, you look round on white limestone cliffs; it calls to mind" the dry ground," out of which the root (Nezer) of Jesse sprung. Its retired obscurity struck me,-the Saviour thus teaching his people to be willing to be unknown even thirty years of their life or all their lives, if he choose so to appoint. I wish I had space to tell you illustrations derived from the fountains we daily came to, where men, women, and children came at noon to drink, and be revived and enjoy the coolness that is round it; a beautiful type of thirty souls, men, women, and

children, coming to "the fountain of living waters." And the "dew" "resting all night on the branches" (Job), and on the grass, reviving the withered leaves, and keeping them moist and preparing them for the coming heat of next day,-like the sweet influence of the Lord's presence with the saint at evening and morning, when He sheds the truth over the soul, while it reads and prays.

Constantinople, August 20, 1839. We have been of late in regions of the world, where once the light of Christ shone most clearly, but where now there is darkness that may be felt. Is it the case, that when the candlestick is once removed from a place, God thereby gives over that region to hopelessness? Is it not like the case of an apostate individual?—“ It is impossible for those who were once enlightened and have tasted of the heavenly gift, and were made partakers of the Holy Ghost, and have tasted the good word of God, and the powers of the world to come, if they shall fall away, to renew them again unto repentance, seeing they crucify to themselves the Son of God afresh, and put him to an open shame." And, in confirmation of this, the Jews, scattered under the curse to this hour, are sent as terrible witnesses among the Churches. We were led to think of the awful danger of apostacy, not only by traversing Palestine, and the part of Asia where the seven Churches stood, but also by personally ascertaining the fact, that in no part of the world, perhaps, has there been less success among missions. There have been missions to the East uninterruptedly for about thirty years, at Beirout, in Cyprus, at Smyrna, at Trebizond, at Constantinople, and yet we ascertained it to be true, that they cannot, in all that time, mention a Mahometan convert known to them! Indeed the Mahometan law positively prevents missionaries seeking their conversion; and of Greeks, Syrians, and Armenians, only a very few, perhaps under twenty, have been converted. Now, while God leaves other apostate lands to be examples of his severity, remember how expressly he has promised to reserve the case in regard to the Jews, e. g., in chapter xxx. of Isaiah, verse 18, "And therefore will the Lord wait to be gracious;" and yet more, Jer. xxxi. 20.

Since I last wrote from the foot of Carmel, we have visited many other parts of the Holy Land, and have been in every synagogue of the Jews within its bounds excepting Jaffa. We had a delightful journey to the Lake of Tiberias, Nazareth, and the coasts of Tyre and Sidon, out of which the people used to come in multitudes to Jesus; and in these parts we found Jews of a more devout and more strict character than in any other part. At Safet, one of their four holy cities, (you know Jerusalem, Hebron, and Tiberias, are the other three,) we witnessed synagogues filled with aged men, who there, every week, try to make out their claim to heaven by prayers uttered with intense earnestness. They cry aloud,they use all kinds of supplicatory tones, fitted to move to pity, as if they could thus change the mind of God. They smite the breast, and clap the hands together; and through the week some of the old men spend their day in poring over the Talmud, and other books, but you never find them reading the pure Word of God alone. At Tiberias they are so extravagant in their worship, that occasionally they leap and stamp on the ground, like what we have heard of the Jumpers among the Methodists; and not long ago, hearing of one man that had received a New Testament, some of them got into his house, and tore out as far as the epistles, (beginning at the end, viz., Revelations) when the man snatched it from them, and saved the remainder. One lad, at another place, (I think it was at Zidon,) told us that he had no doubt that his sins were pardoned. We asked how he knew," Because I cannot walk six steps on this land

without being forgiven!" Yet, at the same time, it is really wonderful how much access Christians may have to them, and how much of a genial impression has of late been made on them. The circumstance, too, of an English consul protecting them, opens up a way for British influence particularly. Did you ever wonder how Paul and others went into the synagogues, and conversed and disputed there? It strikes me that they did as missionaries or visitors do now,-they went in and waited till service was over, and then the Jews flocked around the strangers, just as they do now; and often they would stand talking on the floor of the synagogue for hours at a time. I should mention, that they are now very generally aware of the difference between Protestant Christianity and Popish; and this has had a great effect in lessening their abhorrence of Christians. The region round the Lake of Galilee would be a fine field for a mission from Scotland. It would not interfere with the English missionaries at Jerusalem; it would occupy a part of the land which at present is only occasionally visited at long intervals by missionaries; it would come to a people devout and sincere, though utterly deluded, and hence would be more likely to be blessed than among careless, sceptical souls; and it would find a people who are in fear and affliction,-for such is their state at present. And is not that a time of favour very often more than other times? Mr. Calman accompanied us in this tour, so that we had means of thoroughly ascertaining their state of mind. One important means of blessing Israel that is still wanting, would be the publication of tracts suited to the state and circumstances of different loca lities. Missionaries complain of the want of this.

In regard to the country, this portion of it was delightful; it was full of associations which Christ's ministry in Galilee, and his residence there has left. Jehovah in the flesh dwelt with men at Nazareth nearly thirty years, and walked with them round the lake, and stood still from time to time to speak such words as these: "Come unto me." These recollections have, on the spot, overwhelming interest; and the simpler they are, the more solemn and the more impressive. At the sea-shore, on the other side, where Tyre and Sidon stand, the deep broad sea washing silent shores, conveys the feeling of desolation in a very striking way, although you still see before you houses and dwellings, that occupy the site of these cities. The view of Tabor and Hermon, and that of Lebanon, brings another quite distinct series of remembrances; but all impressing the soul with the accurate truth and majesty of the Word of God. I have no room to dwell on all the places we have seen; and I must tell you something of Asia Minor.

At Beirout, owing to the great heat, Mr. M'Cheyne caught a fever, but was able to sail to Smyrna. We reached Smyrna on the 1st of this month. Between the Jews and Greeks here there is deadly enmity as a proof of which I may mention that, just a few days before we arrived, a respectable Jew was walking before a common Greek, when the Greek made up to him, and struck him a severe blow with his fist. An English resident immediately asked the cause, for the Jew felt so, that he turned round and burst into tears, but made no resistance. The Greek said, "Oh, he is one of those that hate Christ." (Deut. xxviii. 37, Lam. iii. 45.) We attended worship at the English chapel. Above the pulpit there is most appropriately written, from the Epistle to the Church of Smyrna, "Be thou faithful unto death, and I will give you the crown of life." The very reading of this one verse sent a flood of strength to us that day like a very message from God exhorting us to continue to the end. The whole Épistle to Smyrna is full of strengthening words, and perhaps Polycarp was the minister who first

felt their power, for he is believed to have been "the angel of the Church." The place where his church stood is still pointed out; it is on a rising ground, but the Turks have carried off the stones to help in some of their buildings. I heard a curious fact. You remember Polycarp was burnt to death in the Stadium here, and it is said the Jews were his chief persecutors, and brought torches to kindle the fire. Now the Stadium exists still, and the Jewish quarter is directly under it; and the Jews are in the habit of selling torch-wood to the inhabitants at this day. The Epistle to the Church of Smyrna in Revelations, confirms the truth of the Jews being great persecutors; but the Christians of Smyrna must recompense good, iike their Master touching the ear of Malchus. We have found Smyrna a place most favourable for a mission. There are about nine thousand Jews, having free intercourse with Christians, if treated kindly; and there is only one missionary for them, and this one likely to leave. Many things, besides, make it a desirable station, and schools opened here would be attended. At Salonika (the ancient Church of Thessalonica) there are no less than fifty thousand Jews, and very like those mentioned Acts xvii. 5–13, -strict, bigoted, and exclusive. No missionary has ever sought their salvation. We met a gentleman who had just come from the Crimea, where the greatest number of Karaite Jews reside. He told us there are five thousand of them,-all respectable, honest, and held in high esteem. They have prided themselves from age to age in their honesty. They are cleanly, and dress well. The Russian Government show them much favor, but no missionary would be permitted to go among them by Russia, although no class of Jews seem so near Christianity, holding, as they do, the pure Old Testament as the only basis of their faith. At Constantinople there are eighty thousand Jews; they are suspicious of Christians, and watch inquirers of their brethren; but the common people are weary of this tyranny, and the English missionary, Mr. Farman, offers to establish schools that would be attended by both boys and girls, if we only send him the means. We ascertained, too, that both here and elsewhere a considerable number of Jews are willing to throw off the Talmud and acknowledge Christ, if permitted to retain their national Sabbaths, and some other rites; but I fear this class is very like the German New Temple, not anxious about their souls, only weary of separation.

This city is a most splendid place; in point of situation, you could not imagine a finer city. We arrived the week after the great fire, which has cast out fifty thousand people from their houses. We saw many of the Arme nian merchants pitching their tents on the spot where, a few days before, their spacious dwellings had stood. We have not yet had time to go much into the town, and I write to-day, in order to send this by the English post, which goes to-morrow. We are with the American missionary, Mr. Goodell. Mr. Lewis at Smyrna was exceedingly kind to us and to Mr. M'Cheyne in his illness, who remained there a week after us to recover strength, and means to join us here on Monday. If all is well, we sail on that day for Galatz on the Danube. Our sail from Smyrna to Constantinople occupied us only a day and a half. We were in an Austrian steam-boat, commanded by an English captain, and had a delightful sail, passing Mitylene and the coast of Troy, where we saw the English and French fleets at anchor, and were told that the English officers spend much of their time in fishing in the Simois and Scamander. We thought of Paul at Troas and Eutychus as much as of Homer and Achilles. The passage of the Dardanelles is a delightful sail. Believe me, &c.