At one o'clock reached one of the salt springs, worked by the Nogas. The water was drawn from deep wells by a bucket of leaves, and poured into large wooden troughs near by, for the purpose of boiling. Their mode of boiling is rude, and to one who had not seen it, would appear to be perfectly impracticable. They build a long arch of stone and clay. On the top single joints of bamboos, cut thin, and spread open like a boat, are placed closely together. These hold from two to three quarts each. These boats are kept full of the brine, and a large fire kept blazing under them, without injury to the bamboo. On this arch I counted sixty boats, which they said would give, when boiled away, twenty to twenty-five boats of salt for the market. Thus their ingenuity has made them quite independent of the expensive furniture required at our own salt works. One man to attend the arch, one to bring the brine, and four to gather wood, are all that is necessary to complete the establish

ment.

Pursuing our course, we came to a very steep and rugged mountain, and as the sun was pouring down his meridian rays upon us, my feeble strength, on gaining the summit, was quite exhausted. We here passed several dangerous precipices, but soon had the pleasure of seeing the rude houses which the Nogas had prepared for our reception. They stood near the hath, (salt market,) at which was a large collection of traders. A gentle ascent on every side formed a splendid amphitheatre of the valley. Here we were met by two of the chief's sons, and a numerous train of his warriors, who bade me welcome-expressed their pleasure that I had come, and declared the country mine, and themselves my subjects. In return, I assured them of my best wishes and good intentions; and although no white man had ever before ventured among them; that I felt the greatest confidence in them, as my brethren and friends. then proceeded to the rude huts they had prepared for my use during my stay among them, and which, upon inquiry, I was sorry to find, were at quite a distance from their villages. They doubtless wish to be better assured of the object of my visit, before they admit me to their villages; although the alleged reason was, that there was no water on their mountains, and that this would subject me to great inconvenience. They have hitherto allowed no one to know much of the interior of their country.

We

I spent the most of the day with these people, conversing particularly upon my object in coming among them. I lost no time in telling them, that the great God who created them, had made it the duty of his creatures to love and pity each other; that I was a teacher of his holy law, of which they were entirely ignorant; and that I had heard of them in my native land, and had come across the great waters to give them books in their own language, that they might read the law of God, and become a wise and good people. Their great fear was that I was a servant of the Company. Being weary, I dismissed them, requesting that the chief and his attendants would meet me the next day, as I had important words to speak to them. They promised to do so, and very courteously left me. Interview with the Chiefs-Visit to the Noga Village.

10th. About 11 o'clock the kingly train made their appearance, rushing like so many wild beasts from the tops of the highest peaks, and having their heads and ears ornamented with shells, precious stones, and many fanciful representations of battle. They halted a few rods from my house, and stuck their spears into the ground together, where they left them during their visit. They then came in a very respectful manner, and seated themselves before me, on mats that they had brought for the purpose.

Having now before me all the influential persons among the people, I entered again into a familiar explanation of my object in visiting them.

I told them that there were many good people across the great waters, who had compassion on them, and had sent me up into their mountains, where no white man had ever before been, to teach them how to love God and go to heaven when they died. Bor Kumbou, through my interpreter, renewed the objections urged yesterday. They feared that I was a servant of the Company, come to spy out their roads, sources of wealth, number of slaves, amount of population, and means of defence, and the best methods of taking the country. Others feared that I might live peaceably among them for a time, and afterwards get power and influence, and make them all my people. It was in vain that I told them of another country, beside the English, across the great waters. They replied, " Is not your color, your dress, your language, the same; and what person would come so far, merely to give us books and teach us religion?" Some of the more enlightened, and I was happy to find, influential among them, appeared to be satisfied that my object was to benefit them, and began arguing in my favor.

The object of my visit having been pretty thoroughly explained, I called upon the chief to state in the presence of his people, whether he thought education would be advantageous, or disadvantageous to them: also whether he would give me his approbation and assistance in learning their language and teaching them. He promptly replied, that" if the people learned to read in their own language, it would be well; but the Nogas were like birds and monkeys, lighting on this mountain, and stopping on that, and therefore no white man could live among them to teach them; that as soon as their boys were old enough, they put into their hands the da (hatchet) and spear, and taught them how to fight and to make salt, aside from that they knew nothing,-and how could they learn books?"

11th. Rose early, having slept but little from anxiety about my future path of duty. Unless I can secure the confidence of the people sufficiently to live familiarly among them, I cannot expect to benefit them. Nor would it be wise for me to presume upon the kindness or integrity of a rude tribe of mountaineers, many of whom never before saw a white face. I endeavored to commend my way to God, and seek his direction.

Being pretty well satisfied that it was fear merely, that made them hesitate to receive me at their village, I despatched my interpreter with a small present to Bura Kumbou, who I understood was favorably inclined to me, saying that I felt much disappointment and chagrin in not finding my houses built near him and his people; that I had come a great way to see them, to hear their language, to give them good words, and to teach them God's law; and that I wished to come up into their village, and live among them as brothers and friends. He soon returned, saying that there was a great fear in the village at my coming; that they considered me a divinity; that if I remained where I was, it would be very well, but it was the order of Bor Kumbou, that if I wished, I might come up into their village. This was all I wished. Without his approbation I should not have felt safe in going. I immediately made arrangements for going the next morning.

12th. An early breakfast, and we set out for the Noga village on the top of the mountain. It had rained for twenty-four hours, previous; and the path was steep and slippery. After winding our way over several hills for two hours, we reached a fine open space commanding a most lovely prospect of hill and valley and winding streams. Several hamlets could be distinctly seen at once, and the report of a gun from this place was the signal for collecting their respective inhabitants. Here, hidden from all the civilized world, this people roam among the beauties of nature, and behold the grandeur of the works of God. From this place I

found a wide and well-prepared road, pursuing which for two hours, we reached the village. The houses are numerous, large, and generally raised from the ground. The whole village is embowered by trees of the richest evergreen, and the walks are adorned by various beautiful shrub-j bery, among which I saw oranges, lemons, a great variety of citrons, and, the blackberry. The cool fragrant air, as it breathed briskly through the. thick foliage, made me forget all the fatigues of the journey, and every breath I inhaled imparted to my languid frame new vigor.

I was kindly received at the village, and directed to a large comfortable house which they had prepared for my reception, and where several chiefs were assembled to meet me. My wants were immediately inquired into, a fire was made, one of their springs of water was given up to our company, eggs, milk and potatoes brought in abundance, and a small cook-house put up, in so short a time that I had no occasion to order any thing. Such was the generous hospitality of these wild mountaineers.

But this was no sooner done, than a long council was held concerning me, (no less than six similar consultations have been held concerning me and the object of my visit ;) and the whole day has been spent in answering their objections. They were inquisitive about the great countries across the waters, and quite incredulous at my description of a passage to this country.

Objects of his Mission approved-Funeral Rites-Condition of Females. Having unfolded the object of his visit to the chief man of the tribe and secured his approbation and assistance, Mr. Bronson proceeds

Spent the day in correcting the Catechism in Noga. Had a large company around me, who had never heard the ten Commandments before. They eagerly inquired where such words came from. They may well be surprised, for they never were acquainted with any system aside from those of the superstitious brahmin and Hindu. I never before realized how directly the commandments aim at the complete destruction of heathenism. When I entered upon the explanation of the first and second commandments, forbidding the worship of idols in every form, they exclaimed, "good, good." The Nogas do not worship idols, but make offerings to evil spirits, of which they have a most superstitious fear. The like scene was acted over when I came to the eighth command, prohibiting theft. This crime is considered by them a capital offence, and punished accordingly. The disallowing of adultery was heard with a sneer. How truly has the apostle described the heathen in the first chapter of Romans.

After we had gone through the commandments, I entered into a fuller explanation of them, dwelling particularly upon the folly of idol worship; and I believe I never before was able to make myself so well understood on religious subjects, since I have been in the country. I find them extremely ignorant. They have no priests, no houses of worship, and no favorite creed. The brahmins have tried to rivet the fetters of their superstition upon them, but almost in vain. If they will receive books, and allow their children to be gathered into schools and instructed in the Christian religion, the brahmins will be able to do very little, and the gospel will work its way into the very midst of their country. A successful beginning here, will open the door to twenty-one other dependent villages near at hand, where the same dialect is spoken.

18th. Early this morning Bura Kumbou sent for my interpreter, and inquired if I was in want of provisions. By his attention 1 am supplied with many necessaries. I receive the kind feeling manifested by this people, as a favorable indication from the hand of God, and an encou ragement to go farward,

This has been a great day among the Nogas. It was the completion

Their

of the sixth month after the death of a wife of one of their chiefs. Tab custom is to allow the corpse to remain six months in the house; at the expiration of which time the ceremonies I have this day witnessed must be performed. In the morning two large buffalos, several hogs and a great number of fowls were killed for the occasion. A kind of intoxicating drink, called modh, which I am sorry to say they have learned to distil in large quantities, from rice, was drunk. About noon, numbers of Nogas from the neighbouring villages, dressed in a most fanciful manner and equipped for battle, arrived. After beating several gongs of different sizes, so arranged as to form a sort of harmony, with the ire music of drums, they marched to the house where the decaying corpse lay, each man bearing a shield, a spear and a da. They then commenced singing and dancing, with such a regularity of step and voice, as perfectly surprised me. They sang in the Abor tongue, and my interpreter informed me that all their songs are borrowed from the Abors, with whom they hold daily intercourse. I was allowed to attend, in company with two of the chiefs, who interpreted to me the song, the substance of which is as follows:

"What divinity has taken away our friend? Who are you? Where do you live? In heaven or on the earth, or under the earth? Who are you? Show yourself? If we had known of your coming we would have speared you." The above was first pronounced by the chorister. The whole company then answered it by exclaiming, "Yes," at the same time waving their huge glittering spears towards heaven, in defiance of the evil spirit who was supposed to have occasioned the death. The chorister continues, "We would have cut you in pieces and eaten your flesh," "Yes," responded the warriors, brandishing their das, as if impatient for the battle. "If you had apprised us of your coming, and asked our permission, we would have reverenced you; but you have secretly taken one of us, and now we will curse you.' Yes," respond the warriors. This is the substance of what they sang, though varied, and repeated many times. 25th. The noise of music and dancing continued nearly all the night. During the greater part of this day, the ceremonies of yesterday were repeated. At the setting of the sun a large company of young women came around the corpse, and completely covered it with leaves and flowers, after which it was carried to a small hill adjacent and burned amid the festivities of the people. Thus closed this painful scene.

In this

Considerable respect appears to be paid to the female sex. particular there is a striking contrast between the Nogas and the Asamese. The Asamese women are the most idle, worthless set of beings I ever saw. On the contrary, the Noga women are proverbial for their industrious and laborious habits. This remarkable difference in favour of the Noga women, is doubtless to be imputed to the anarchial state of the country, or rather to the number of independent chiefs, who formerly, for the slightest offence, were disposed to wage war, and the worst of all wars, that which is covert and unsuspected. This made it necessary for the men to be always ready for an assault, and hence the custom that the women should cultivate the fields-the men prepare for, and fight in battle.

26th. Took my interpreter and the Catechism which I had just completed in Noga, and called on Bura Kumbou. He received me kindly, and after passing the usual civilities of the country, I entered into familiar conversation upon religion. I asked, Do you not sometimes think about dying, and inquire where you will go, and what will become of you? He replied, "I know that I shall go and meet my ancestor in heaven.' How do you know? I asked. By dreams," said he.

39

"In my

sleep it has been often told me." If you could read that great book, which God has given to guide all men, if you believed it and obeyed it,

you would be very happy at the thought of dying; and I have come up into your mountains for no other purpose than to teach it to your people. As he appeared to be interested, and rather astonished at such ideas, (which doubtless were new to him,) I drew from my pocket the Catechism, and read it through, often asking him if he understood it. He replied “Yes,” and said that God gave those words, for they were all true and great as God. I then told him that I expected to go in a few days to Sadiya, to print this and other Noga books, that he and his people might no longer be destitute of the means of becoming a wise and good people ; and that when I returned to visit them, I should bring them Noga books, but I was afraid his people would have no mind to learn to read them. He replied that it was his wish to have his people to learn to read them.

Note on the Lepchas of Sikkim. By A. Campbell, Esq. Superintendent of Dorjeling.

When I had the houor, some months ago, of forwarding a few Notes on the Mech tribe, I ventured to announce my expectation of being able to furnish some particulars of other tribes inhabiting the neighbouring countries of eastern Nipal, Sikkim, and Bootan. To this end, I had collected and recorded some useful memoranda regarding the Lepchas, Bhotiahs, Limboos, Murmis, Gurungs, and Hains, all mountaineers, which by an unfortunate accident were destroyed by fire; nevertheless, as the establishment of this Sanatarium for our countrymen affords them opportunities of communicating with classes of men which have hitherto been denied to all except the few who under very restrictive circumstances have sojourned in Nipal, I am induced to forward some particulars of the Lepchas, with an alphabet and very meagre vocabulary of their language, in the hope that they may be of some assistance to persons visiting this place, who may have leisure and a disposition to acquire the means of colloquial and written intercourse in their own language, with a most interesting people, and I believe, the undoubted aborigines of the mountain forests surrounding Dorjeling.

Although the Lepchas have a written language, it has not been ascertained that they now have, or ever did possess any recorded history of themselves, or chronicles of any important events in which they have taken part. The Lepchas," so called by us, and indeed by themselves in conversation with strangers, are divided into two races, viz. "Rong" and "Khámbá." Rong in colloquial intercourse among them is a generic term, and equivalent to "Lepcha" with us. But a man who announces himself a Lepcha to a European, Nipalese, or Hindustani, may, on being questioned, turn out to be a Khámbá. The real Lepcha, or Rong proper, has no tradition whatever, so far as I can learn, connected with the advent of his tribe into this part of the world. Here he has always been, to the best of his knowledge and belief, and this is corroborated by all his neighbours. The habitant of the Lepchas occupies an extreme extent of about 120 miles from north-west to south-east, along the southern face of the Himalaya; to the west, the Tamber branch of the Koori bounds it; but on the east its limits are undefined in the mountains of Bootan. Thus they are found among the subjects of eastern Nipal, throughout the whole of Sikkim, and extending an unknown distance into Bootan. I believe however that they are found in very small numbers indeed further east than fifty miles beyond the Teestah, although a few of them are said to be located as far east as Punnuka, and Tassgong+.

* Vide As. Soc. Journ. No. 92.

+ Towns in Bootan; see Pemberton's Report.