Grand Hotel de l'Univers et de Castille, Hotel d'Angleterre, Place Royale; Empereurs, Rue Canebière; Luxembourg, 25, Rue St. Ferréol; De Genes, 8, Quai du Port; Europe, 9, Rue Pavillon; Louvre, 16, Rue Canebière; Du Prince, 12, Place Royale; Du Nord, 8, Rue Thibuneau; Orléans, 19, Rue Vacon; Richelieu, 50, Rue Vacon; Italie, 7, Quai Napoléon; Ambassadeurs, S, Rue Beameau.

A cup of excellent coffee or chocolate, at the Cafés, 60 or 75 centimes.

Omnibuses run to all parts of the city from the station.

English Consul, Edward W. Mark, Esq., Rue Dragon, 92.

American Consul, M. Price, Esq.

English Service at the church, Rue Silvabelle, No. 100; and at the Sailors' Club, 8, Rue de la République.

Sea Baths, on Bassin d'Arenc, 13 fr., including omnibus; lodgings, 6 to 7 fr. per day.

Post Office, in Rue Jeune Anarcharsis.

Time from London, about 40 hours. Fares: - 1st class, £6 14s.; 2nd, £5.

CHIEF OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-HarbourRue de Canebière-Hôtel de Ville-ConsigneTriumphal Arch-Cathedral-Museum and Gallery. This large city is the capital of department Bouches du Rhône (which was part of Provence), head-quarters of a military division, seat of a bishopric, &c., a consulate, and the chief port and packet-station in the Mediterranean. It stands about 27 miles east of the delta, or mouths of the Rhône, in the Golfe du Lion (i.e., of the Lion-not Lyons, as it is usually called), and 450 miles from Algiers, the settlement of which has greatly stimulated its prosperity. It is the oldest place in France, or in western Europe, having been founded as far back as 600 B. C., by Greek settlers from Phocæa, under their leader Euxenus, who called it Massalia or Massillia. From hence they also colonised Nicea (Nice), Antipolis (Antibes), Agatha (Agde), and other little republics; while the mother city increased in power and fame, in spite of the jealousy of Athens and the Carthagenians. It was taken by Hannibal, punished by Cæsar for siding with Pompey, ravaged by the Visigoths (A. D. 483), the Burgundians, Ostrogoths (588), the Saracens

(735), and at length came to the Counts of Provence, 1257. Alphonso of Arragon sacked it, 1421, and held it for two years, but it revived under le bon roi, René of Anjou, who died here, 1480. In his time it was noted for its soap and glassworks, its furs ani hides. Under Louis XI. it became part of France; the Duke of Guise occupied it for Henry IV.; Louis XIV. entered it through a breach in the walls, in token of his displeasure for its resistance to him, and curtailed its political rights. It was ravaged by the plague 1530, and again by the Great Plague of 1720-21, when 40,000 or 50,000 out of 90,000 were carried off, and Bishop Belzunce, Chevalier Rose, and others, exerted themselves so admirably. At the Revolution it supported the Girondist party with great fervour, and was, therefore, visited with the bloody vengeance of the Terrorists, who sent Fréron and Barras here, to purge the city. The famous Marseillaise song, to which it gives name, was composed at Strasbourg, by Rouget de l'Isle, and first sung here at a banquet given to the Deputy, Barbaroux.

As seen from Viste hill, for example, on the Aix road, Marseilles appears most happily placed in a picturesque and convenient spot at the bottom of a natural inlet, which opens right out to the Mediterranean; limestone hills rising gradually all round, to a height of 550 feet in some parts, with a clear and beautiful sky overhead. Thousands of bastides (as they call the country-seats here) dot the sides of this amphitheatre, and numerous gardens of vines and olives are dispersed about; but the soil being white and dry, it is excessively hot in summer; then, gnats and mosquitoes bite, the keen north-west mistral blows, and perhaps a scorpion may be found in one's bed. The town surrounds the harbour like a horse-shoe the oldest part, with its narrow dirty streets, being on the north side, while the modern and better built quarters are on the east and south. The Rue de Canebière and Allées de Meilhan (running nearly east and west), the most bustling and frequented thoroughfare in Marseilles, nearly mark the line of division, while the Boulevards show the extent of the old town and the site of the ramparts, taken down, 1800. These offer the best promenades; there are others in Cours Bonaparte (near the arsenal), and Grand Cours. This last is part of a long route (running

nearly north and south) which stretches from Porte d'Aix to the Prado, and includes Rue de Rome, Grand Chemin de Rome, Place Castelane, &c. It is now adorned by fountains, and Ramus's bronze statue of Bishop Belzunce, set up in 1853.

Great improvements are making in Marseilles, by the authorities, under the direction of M. Mirès, the contractor, at an estimated cost of about 30,000,000 fr. Of this sum, 4,000,000 are devoted to rebuilding the cathedral; 16,000,000 to the new port of Arenc; 2,000,000 to sweetening the old harbour; 500,000 to transplanting the Lazaretto to Frioul. M. Mirès having acquired the site of the Lazaretto, and that of the ground near the Joliette, will indemnify himself by laying out new streets, &c., and has engaged to build a church free of expense.

Most of the Places (or squares) and Promenades are ornamented with fountains, supplied by subterranean cuts from the Huveaume, &c., and the great canal from the Durance. That of Place St. Ferréol, was raised to the memory of those excellent persons who attended on their townsmen in the great plague. One in Rue d'Aubagne, is actually dedicated to "Homer, by the descendants of the Phocæans;" another, stands in Place Royale, the largest square in the city. That in Place des Fainéants, is a black marble obelisk, 23 feet high, on four lions. The Fontaine de Puget, in Rue de Rome, is a little pyramid placed before the old house of this Marseillaise architect and painter, whose works once served to adorn his native city, but were swept away after the Revolution. He was known in England as the builder of Montague House, the old British Museum. A statue was erected to him in 1857. Place de Lenche was the site of Roman baths. The large Plaine St. Michel, or Champ de Mars, a Roman site, is now ornamented with a basin, in the midst of which an island darts up a iet of water 164 feet high.

The large Corinthian triumphal arch, at the Porte d'Aix, was begun, 1823, in honour of the Duc d'Angoulême, but remained unfinished till the Revolution of July, when it was dedicated to the "military glory of France." M. Penchard is the architect. The figures of Courage, Resignation, Prudence, Foresight, are by David d'Angers.

The Harbour, or Port, forms an oblong of about 3,080 feet by 980, or about 70 acres, and is extremely safe, though the mouth is narrow. It is generally crowded with the shipping, of which it will hold 1,200, with water deep enough for those of 600 tons. A great disadvantage is, that the ebb and flow of the tide being very small, the stench of the sewers opening into it is constantly felt; but it is proposed to remedy this by sluicing it with the surplus water brought down by the city aqueduct It is lined with narrow quays, where all the costumes and languages of the Mediterranean may be seen and heard.

On the south side, or Rive Neuve, or Commerce, are the mast-house, the douane and magazines, with a canal running round them, the place-auxhuiles (oil stores), ship yards, stores for soap, bones, &c. Along the opposite side, or Boutique, you see the Place du Cul de Boeuf, the Consigne or Board of Health, the fish market, the Hôtel · de Ville, stamp office, bazaar, shops for shipchandlery, &c. At the Consigne are pictures, &c., worth notice-Puget's Plague of Milan (a basrelief); Gerard's Plague at Marseilles; H. Vernet's Scene during the Cholera; and David's St. Roch praying for the Victims of the Plague. A wet dock, or Bassin de Carénage, lies just outside the harbour, on the south, close to Fort St. Nicholas, which guards this side of the narrow entrance; the opposite side being guarded by Fort St. Jean.

The Hôtel de Ville, a small building, of no particular merit or character, has bas-reliefs on its front, with Puget's bust of Louis XIV. and a Latin inscription; on the staircase, a statue of Liberty, and some pictures in the hall. The ground floor was used for the Bourse, or Exchange, now transferred to a separate timbered building, or rather to the open space in Place Royale, where the merchants prefer to meet, till the new one in the Canebière is built.

The Prefecture, in Place St. Ferréol, on one side of a wide court, has two façades, and is one of the largest public structures in the city. It was built by Roux, a rich banker of the last century, who died Marquis of Brue, after impoverishing his fortune by making war, on his own account, against England, because one of his ships had been insulted. On this occasion he issued a manifesto

beginning with-"George Roux to George Roy," in the style of Ancient Pistol. Near the old prisons, is the Palais de Justice, with nothing to distinguish it. The new prisons, built 1823, are at Porte d'Aix. Among the market places, or Halles, are the vieille Poissonnerie, the halle Puget, and halle neuve (new), rebuilt 1801, on the site of an older one. A large Boucherie, or shambles, stands on the sea, between the anses (bays) de l'Ourse and de la Joliette-the latter, they say, named after Julius Cæsar-Julia statio. Here a new port has been made, inside a breakwater and two moles; but it is reported to be dangerous with unfavourable winds. It is taken, as it were, out of the Mediterranean, and forms a rectangle, equal in area to the old harbour, with which it is joined by a canal, behind Fort St. Jean. The digue, or breakwater, is 1,334 yards long. The moles, or jetties, which strike out to it perpendicularly, are 437 yards long, and 546 yards apart. The stone was quarried in the rocks near Notre Dame de la Garde. An Imperial Palace, among other projected works, has been built here. Not far from this, at the entrance of the town, is Porte Joliette, one of the few pieces of antiquity here, but much decayed, and used as the bureau of the Octroi.

Most of the churches are plain buildings. That of De la Major, or the Cathedral, which stood near the Anse de l'Ourse, was the most ancient; it replaced a temple to the "great goddess Diana," whose worship the Greeks brought here, and was a tasteless mixture of various styles, with the front spoilt by the plasterers. It was pulled down, and the work of rebuilding it commenced on the same site, in 1853. St. Victor, now the oldest, is near Fort St. Nicholas and the Carénage basin, and stands over the burial-place of an early martyr, which became the site of a rich abbey, founded in the 5th century. It is Romanesque for the most part, and has crypts of the 11th century (one of which was re-opened 1857) with Pope Urban's two towers, built 1350; and an image of the Madonna, to which the people came to pray in long seasons of drought. St. Vincent de Paul is in the Allées des Capucins. Near the Cours Italien is Nôtre Dame du Mont, re-built 1822, except its old clock-tower. It contains pictures by Serre, with good carved work in the choir, &c. That on Mont Carmel, near the triumphal arch, has a good prospect. A new

circular church stands close to the Flêche des Accoules, which overlooks the town, and is the tall Romanesque clock-tower of a large church pulled down at the Revolution. There is another at a little distance from it. The Chapelle du Château Babon belonged to a castle on the site of Fort St. Jean. A pretty chapel of the 17th century, called the Madeleine, or Chartreux, outside the town, has a good nave, and light campanile towers. There are Protestant and Greek churches, the former in Rue de Grignon, near the Jews' Synagogue.

Hôtel Dieu, or Hôpital du St. Esprit, behind the Town-hall, was founded 1188, and is a large irregular mass in the heart of the old city, having beds for 560, and a chapel built, 1600. La Charité, near Place de l'Observance, founded 1640, for 850 old people and orphans, forms a court, in which stands an oval chapel, by Puget, with a dome. Among the other charitable institutions are the two hospices of St. Joseph and St. Lazare; the asylums for Aliénés (lunatics) and for the Deaf and Dumb (sourds-muets); the former, a large building in Avenue Bayle. The new Military Hospital is in Quatre de la Plaine

Most of the learned societies are established in the old convent of the Bernardines, in Cours du Marché (near the Champ de Mars), which has several long galleries in it, a tower and a cruciform church, crowned with a dome. Here are the Academy of sciences and belles lettres; a large public Bibliothèque, or library, of 70,000 volumes and 1,300 MSS., in a room 130 feet long, open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; cabinets of Roman and Greek antiquities (busts, sarcophagi, &c.) and of medals and natural history, a Picture Gallery in the old chapel, of about 140 paintings of the French school (89 specimens, by Puget, Serre, and others), Italian and Flemish schools, (Ruben's Boar Hunt, &c.); the college, or high school; with schools of design and architecture, &c. A school of Navigation is established in the Observatory, which has a fine prospect. The Jardin des Plantes, or botanic garden, in the Chartreux quarter, opened since 1810, contains many exotics, including an orangery.

In Place Royale is the Grand Théâtre, with a portico of six columns. like the Odéon of Paris, built 1787. Théâtre Français, or Gymnase, stands