FRUGES (5 kil. from this), under a slope, has a mineral water. At 31 kil. beyond, is St. Omer (see Route 1.)] have attracted a number of English here. It grew out of a church founded in the 7th century by St. Eloi, called the "Church of the Dunes," from the The line ascends the Somme, after leaving dunes, downs, or sand-hillocks, which line this Abbeville; the next station to which is Rémy, or Pont-Rémy (5 miles), which has a ruined castle; then Longpré (5 miles). Here are two branch lines -one way, to Doullens (see page 8) and Bouquemaisons; the other to Gamaches. Tréport, and Eu (see page 14). At Gamaches, a line turns off to Abancourt, on the Amiens and Rouen line. Abancourt is on a line now in progress towards Beauvais, which will make part of a direct route to Paris, via Tréport. Hangest (4 miles), near which is the camp of l'Etoile, an old Roman fort. The next is Picquigny (5 miles), and its old castle, best known for the treaty signed here between Edward IV. and Louis XI., in 1475. Ailly (3 miles) belonged to a noble family of that name, two of whom (according to Voltaire), father and son, taking opposite sides, fought hand to hand, at the battle of Ivry. At 6 miles beyond this is Amiens, on the main line as in Route 1. ROUTE 3. Dunkirk to Hazebrouck and Paris. Distance to Hazebrouck, 41 kil. or 25 miles. Four trains daily.. DUNKIRK, or Dunkerque, 189 miles from Paris; about 40 from Dover. terribly flat coast. It has an anchorage lying at some distance, in the road, and is as noted for smugglers in peace, as for its privateering exploits during war. Its most special hero is Jean Bart, who was a native, and whose statue is in Place Royale. Jean Gauthier, Jean Lion, who styled himself Godts Vrient, i. e., God's Friend, Koster, and the Jacobsons, are almost equally celebrated personages here. Canals run inland to Bergues, Ostend, Bruges, &c. White brick houses of two stories make up the neat broad streets, but there is a want of good water. Many of the people, workmen and others, live in cellars. The town is defended by ramparts, the citadel, Fort Risbau, &c.; and has two Basins, one of which was restored 1794, and frigates launched in it. There is a jetty at the quay, besides a long pier over the flats. A Light-tower, 194 feet high, stands near the basin for the chassemarées, at the mouth of the canal which leads up to the Port. The Hôtel de Ville, built 1644, is an old-fashioned pile, with a low spire. A solid square clock-tower, of brick, 154 feet high, called Tour de l'Eglise, because one part of the church is now cut off from it by the road. This Church (St. Eloi's) is Gothic, with a handsome Grecian portico of ten pillars, HOTELS.-Chapeau Rouge, clean and good; Du added by Louis, and contains some paintings. At the Church of St. Jean are two pictures by Vandyke and Guido, to be seen for a fee. The Jesuits' church is replaced by the college; the public library contains 7,000 volumes. The Museum is rich in Flemish pictures. Large barracks are also seen, a salle de spectacle, school of navigation, &c.; and there are sea and other baths. The Fishermen's Chapel des Dunes, near the shore, is, as usual, crowded with votive offerings. Genuine Flemish is spoken all round Dunkirk. Its position has made it the scene of many contests. A castle was built by the Counts of Flanders, which the English burnt, 1388; they took the town, 1538, but gave it up to Spain the next year. The French (under Condé) took it, 1558, but restored it immediately; again, in 1658, it was taken by Turenne at the Battle of the Dunes, given up to Cromwell, but sold in 1662 by Charles II. to Louis XIV., who fortified it. This happened when Clarendon was building his great house in Piccadilly, which the mob nicknamed "Dunkirk House." The fortifications were razed, 1715, but afterwards restored. The Duke of York tried to take it, 1793, but without success. Admiral Roussin was born here. Manufactures of ropes, sugar, candles, &c., and a good trade in eaux-de-vie, gin, soap, salt, tobacco, butter, fish, cheese, beer, grain, pottery, &c. country around. It was once a Roman station; and an anchor found here, 1815, about 12 feet down. and other signs, show that this flat was once covered by the sea. The view takes in part of the North Sea (even to Dover in clear weather), 32 fortified towns, and about 100 villages, including Dunkirk, Nieuport, Ostend, Bruges, Ypres, Courtray, Lille, Bethune, St. Omer, Calais, Hazebrouck, Gravelines, &c., extending above 30 miles every way. General Vandamme, who fought at Waterloo, was born here; and his house and gardens are shown. Hazebrouck (6 miles), on the main line, as in Route 1. Here the line to Poperinge (13 miles), and Ypres (6 miles), over the Belgian frontier, parts off. ROUTE 4. Conveyances: By rail, to Lille, Brussels, Paris, &c. By steamer to Havre, on Saturday (10 and 20 francs, in 20 hours), to Rotterdam (10 and 20 francs, in 12 hours), Hamburg, Copenhagen; by canal-boat to Bourbourg (6 hours), Ostend, &c.; by packet to Ramsgate and London, Hull, Dundee, &c. (See Paris to Douai, Valenciennes, Mons, and BRADSHAW's Continental Railway Guide.) [From Dunkirk, along the coast, you pass LAFRENOUCK (3 miles); then Laytcoote, near the Belgian border (6 miles from Dunkirk), across which, the first place you come to is Furnes, with its two churches.] The first station from Dunkirk, towards Paris, is Bergues (5 miles), a small frontier post, on the Colme, and a canal, which brings vessels of 300 tons up from the sea. It stands among marshes, and has often suffered from war, having been taken or pillaged about sixteen times. It has an Hôtel de Ville, built 1664, with a good collection of pictures; a fine belfry, 164 feet high, shaped like St. George's new tower at Westminster; two towers of St. Winnoc's abbey, which serve for sea marks; and a good public library of 5,000 volumes. Cardinal Dubois was abbot of St. Winnoc's, which was destroyed in 1793. The trade is in butter, cheese, grain (for which there is a large market), lace, eaux-de-vie, &c. Population, 6,030. Esquelbecq (5 miles), is followed by Cassel (4 miles). Population, 3,204. An old town, once fortified, and having a parish church of the 13th century, part of a Jesuits' convent, a Flemish mairie, two (out of six) gates, &c., is most remarkable for the prospect it commands from the hill on which it stands (800 feet high), over the flat and populous B Brussels. Distance, 231 miles, or 370 kil. Douai, as in Route 1. The next station is Somain (4 miles), where the junction of the branch from Busigny, on the St. Quentin line, takes place, by way of Cambrai and Bouchain. Between the latter (a small fortress and sous-préfecture) and Somain, there is, at Denain, a line to the coal mines of St. Anzin, Bruai (connection with Valenciennes), Condé (page 18), and Peruwelz. At Denain, a pillar marks the spot where Marshal Villars routed the Allies, 1712. Wallers (53 miles), in a forest. Then VALENCIENNES, 173 miles from Paris. Douane at the Station. HOTELS.-Du Commerce; Des Princes; Du Mouton Blanc; De Moulin; De Brussels; Des Flandre. OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Rubens' pictures, at the Hôtel de Ville and St. Gery's Church-Theatre -Museum. A sous-préfecture, in department Nord, a large strongly-fortified town, and second-class military station on the frontier, formerly the capital of Hainault, in the midst of a coalfield and thriving manufactures. It is well built, and divided into two parts by the Estcaut, or Schelde and has one of Vauban's citadels. Population, 25,000. Among the best buildings are-St Gery's Church, founded 1225, by Jeanne, daughter of Baldwin, emperor of Constantinople, 171 feet long, with two of Rubens' Pictures; the half Gothic Hôtel de Ville, built 1612, with three pictures by the same master; public library of 18,000 volumes, and MSS., and the Museum, containing minerals, armour, pictures, &c. Its tall clock tower, 180 feet high, built 1237, fell with a crash in 1843. An academy of painting, sculpture, and architecture was founded, 1782, by Baron Pujol, a native of this town. At the hospital, founded 1751, is a good chapel; the salle de spectacle (theatre), is by Pujol; and there is a mont de piété. It has several good promenades, and commands a fine view, from the tower, of the citadel. Froissart, or Froissard, the historian, Watteau, the painter, and d'Argenson, the statesman, were born here; as were Mad. Duchenois, the tragedienne, and Lemaire, the sculptor of the Madeleine, at Paris. Among the manufactures carried on are, muslins, gauzes, excellent lace, linens, wine, saltpetre, linseed oil, chicory, pottery, pipes, soap, leather, toys; it has several sugar and salt refineries, printworks, distilleries of eaux-de-vie; and there is a large trade in these articles, besides coal. The coal mines at Anzin employ 4,000 hands. Coaches to Bavay, Berlaimont, St. Amand-lesEaux, Bon-Secours, Solesmes, Le Cateau. A direct rail to Aulnoye (see page 22), viâ Le Quesnoy, was opened 1872. [St. Amand-les-Eaux (10 kil. north-north-west) on the Scarpe, with a population of 10,200, who make lace, cambric, &c., is known for its waters, its artesian wells, and its Clock-tower, 318 feet high, which was the spire (built 1635-6), to the church of St. Amand's abbey, founded 634. The mineral springs, near Croisette (2 kil.) are three, viz., Fontaine-de-Bouillon, Source de Pavillon, and Fontaine de Verité; temperature 77°. They are useful in rheumatism, paralysis, ulcers, &c. Season, from June to August. There are bathing-houses and an assemblyroom, &c. Bon-Secours hermitage is near. Condé (11 kil. north-east) on the Schelde, close to the Belgian frontier, is a fourth class fortress (by Vauban), with a large arsenal and good Hôtel de Ville. It gave title of prince to the Bourbons, to whom it came in the 15th century. The Spaniards at one time held it, and the Allies took it, 1793. Population 5,800. Nails, &c., are made. Mademoiselle Clairon, the actress, was a native. Near it is Ermitage, the seat of the Duc de Croi.] After Valenciennes, the next station is Blanc-Misseron (7 miles), near the Belgian frontier, A rail to St. Amand (as above) was opened, 1875. Then comes Quievrain mile). Mons is 10 miles; and Brussels is 39 miles from this. (See BRAD. SHAW's Hand-Book to Belgium and the Rhine.) ROUTE 5. Paris to Creil, Compiègne, Tergnier, St. Quentin, Charleroi, Brussels, and Cologne. This is the direct route to Cologne, vià Namur, Liége, and Aix-la-Chapelle; 306 miles. To Brussels (via Charleroi), 222 miles. Creil, as in Route 1. Ascend the Oise to Pont-Ste.-Maxence (7 miles), in a pleasant part of the Oise, under a wooded hill, which has, near the remains of an old one, a good three-arched bridge (pont), by Péronnet, on a level, resting on groups of open pillars, not solid piles. Some old houses are left, though it has suffered in past times. Much grain is sold. Moncel Abbey ruins are turned into a wine depôt. Coaches to Gournay-sur-Aronde and Senlis (see Route 1.) The former (20 kil. north-east), was the birth-place of Montaigne's adopted daughter, Mademoiselle de Gournay Before reaching the next station, you pass Sarron, on the Oise, near the château of Plessis-Villette, which belonged to Voltaire's niece, Madame de Villette. They show, here, a statue of the poet, on a pedestal, containing his heart, besides his desk and sofa. Verberie (6 miles), on a hill side, now much decayed (population, 1,400), had once three bridges over the Oise, and a palace, in which Charles Martel died, 741. His son, Pepin, called a council here, and his grandson, Charlemagne, built a Chapel. Charles the Bold held the Synod of Soissons here, and gave his daughter to Ethelwolf of England.It was burnt by the Normans, and restored by Charles V.; but few traces of antiquity are left. In the time of Louis XIV., the walls were strengthened, and the town called Villeneuve (new town). Near it is the old church of Rhuys, with a Romanesque tower. Compiègne (7 miles), 63 miles from Paris. Hotels.-De la Cloche; De France; Du Soleil d'Or. English Church here. A sous-préfecture of 12,140 souls, on a slant of the Oise, where the Aisne joins. It is a quiet place, except when frequented by the court, with narrow ill-built streets. Near its great Forest stood the Roman Compendium, with a small hunting-seat of the time of Clovis and Charles the Bold, who built an abbey and château here. Louis le Bègue and Louis V. were buried in the abbey (which was pulled down at the Revolution); and it was held for Charles VII. by Jeanne d'Arc, when she was taken prisoner (1430), in a sally from Vieux Pont Gate, by the Burgundians, who sold her to the English. This gate is close to the Tour de la Pucelle. It The Château, as rebuilt by Louis XV., and finished by Napoléon I. (who first met his bride, Marie Louise, here), was the residence of Charles of Spain, in 1808. It was a favourite resort of the Emperor Napoléon, both for hunting and for the Reviews at the Camp, which was first formed by Louis XIV. The noble front, towards the forest, is 624 feet wide. In the grand gallery, of 100 feet, are Napoléon's victories, painted by Girodet. became the head-quarters of the German Army of occupation, under General Manteuffel, 1871; and is now appropriated for an Oriental Museum. It contains some sculptures from Cambodia, &c. An avenue of nearly a mile leads from the château to the Forest, which covers 29,600 acres (46 square miles). One road, now called Brunehaut, was a Roman way leading to Soissons. St. Corneille, or the Abbey Church, contains some old royal tombs, and had the organ (the first brought into Europe) which Constantine Copronymous, the Greek emperor, gave to Pepin, 755. Its tower is surmounted by turret. St. André and St. Antoine are Gothic; St. Jacques partly in the Renaissance style. At the Carmelites' church is the tomb of the Count of Toulouse, by Lemoine. One of the best buildings is the picturesque Gothic Hôtel de Ville, with its delicate carvings, high roof, carved spire turrets, and fine spire belfry. three-arched Pont Neuf has a pyramid, 33 feet high, The in the middle of it. There is a public library of 28,000 volumes, and a museum of antiquities. The walks around are extremely pleasant. Coaches to Soissons, Pierrefonds-les-Bains. Thourotte (5 miles). Ribecourt (3 miles). Ourscamps (2 miles). Here spinning is carried on in the remains of an Abbey. Noyon (44 miles), the Roman Noviadunum, became the seat of a bishop, 511, and was the place where Hugh Capet was elected king, 987. It stands on a hill side, among gardens, in the valley of Chaunay, on the Vorse, near the Oise; anl is well built, having four gates, and the house in which is said) John Cauvin, or Calvin, was born, 1509, his father being diocesan secretary. He went to the school of the Capettes here, and, through favour of the bishop, received a benefice when he was only twelve; two years after, to escape the plague, he was sent to Paris. The cathedral Church is chiefly Romanesque, of the 13th century (an earlier one was begun by Pepin), 351 feet long, and 217 high at the west towers. The interior is very imposing. One of its bishops was Pope Innocent I. Trade in grain, leather, linen, cottons, coal, &c. Population, 6,372. Hotels.-Du Nord; Des Chevalets. Coaches to Roye, Nesles, Guiscard, Ham. [Roye (15 kil. north-west), an old place, on the Picardy rail, and the Avre, in dept. Somme (part of Picardy), said to be the ancient Rodium. It has suffered from eleven sieges and three plagues. It has a church with excellent stained windows; a carved timber house on the Place, public baths, mineral springs, &c. Population, 4,000. A sect of Guerinets, so called after their leader, Guerin, the curé here, were extirpated, 1626.] Appilly (5 miles), in department Aisne. Chauny (54 miles), a decayed fortified town, on the Oise, where the St. Quentin canal joins, in a fertile plain. Linens are made; and there are large works for polishing the plate glass made at the important factory of St. Gobain, 10 miles southeast by branch rail, first established by Louvois. Population, 8,200. The canal opens a way between the Oise and Somme. In winter the meadows along the Oise are inundated by the rain, and swarm with ducks, plovers, cranes, herons, and other wild fowl. [The forest of St. Gobain, above-mentioned, contains many striking spots, such as the remains of a vast Premonstratensian Abbey, now used as a glass works; le Tortoir, a house which belonged to the Knights Templars; the ruins of St. Nicholas-aux-Bois, a Bernardine house; and the Croix Cosiné, an ancient expiatory monument, erected by St. Louis. South of St. Gobain, and about 7 miles from Chauny, are the magnificent ruins of Coucy Castle, or Coucy-le-Château, a great object of attraction visitors, and among the finest of the kind n France or western Europe. The most conspicuous remains are one entire wing, with great corner towers, and, rising above all the massive circular Keep, a solid machicolated pile, 190 feet high, and 30 to 32 feet thick. This castle belonged to the De Coucys, or Courcys, a turbulent and warlike race, who gave continual trouble to their neigbbours and sovereigns until they died out, and their seat was at last destroyed by Mazarin. They bore this proud device : "Je ne suis Roi, ni Duc, Prince, ni Comte aussi ; (1 am neither King, Duke, Prince, nor Count, Twelve of this warlike house died in Palestine, There are remains of another Château in the village, where Clothaire IV. died in 719, and where La Belle Gabrielle gave birth to the Duc de Vendôme, Henry IV.'s son. Half-way between this and Chauny, is another seat of the Coucys, Folembrai (now a bottle factory), which, like their original castle, was forfeited to the French kings. At times it has been the residence of Diane de Poictiers and Gabrielle d'Estrées, Near Chauny is Quieray, where Charles Martel died, also remarkable as the spot where the treaty was made between Pepin and Stephen II. in 743, which confirmed to the Papacy its possessions in Italy.] Tergnier (4 miles), where the branch line, viâ Laon, turns off to Rheims and Epernay, as in Routes 6 and 55; also the line to Amiens (80 miles), and Rouen, via Ham and Nesle. [Ham (21 miles, 18 kil. from Noyon), on the Somme, is as old as 875, and has a moated Château or state prison, built 1470, by the Constable St. Pôl. On the gate is his motto in Gothic letters, "Mon Mieux" (my best); the great round Keep stands 108 feet high, 108 in diameter, and 36 feet thick. A stone, which served as a pillow to a monk, is pointed out, on which girls who wish to be married within the year come to kneel. Among persons confined here were Charles the Simple; Joan of Arc, after her capture at Compiègne; St. Pôl, its owner (before Louis XI. sent him to the block); Mirabeau; the ministers of Charles X.; Louis Napoléon, afterwards Napoleon III.; Cabrera, the Carlist; and lastly, Cavaignac, Changarnier, &c., in 1848. Louis Napoléon was kept here six years, and then escaped to England, 1846. The church has a good choir, and carvings of scriptural subjects. General Foy was a native. Population, 2,900. Nesle (12 miles), gave name to one of the earlier marquisates in France; and has an old church, in which nearly all its inhabitants were butchered by the Charles the Bold, 1472.] Montescourt (5 miles). At 8 miles further, over a marshy tract, which cost the engineers some trouble to consolidate, you come to ST. QUENTIN, 154 miles from Paris. HOTELS.-Du Cygne; D'Angleterre; Du Lion d'Or. This place, seated on a hill between the Somme and St. Quentin canal, is a sous-préfecture (in department Aisne), of 34,810 souls, who carry on here, as the centre of a wide district, thriving manufactures of cotton, thread, table linen, silk, tulle, muslin, shawls, steam-engines, oil, soap, &c. It was the Roman Augusta-Vivamanduorum, but was called |