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TAS II IONS

For JUNE, 1810.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASITION,

worn

ENGLISH COSTUME,

dyke edging. Shoes, gloves, and parasol of

pale straw colour. No. 1.- EVENING DRE68.

3. A lilac sarsnet dress, made high in the
A round dress of fine white Iudia muslin, l neck; a rich white French lace cloak, tied
macie a walking length, with short full sleeves ; || wiib white; a lace veil thrown over the train
made to sit very much of the shoulder, orna which is dressed full before, and coufined be-
mented round the neck, sleeves, and bottoin of hind with an enainel comb.
the dress with yellow chenille; a belt and tas 4. A fine plain India muslin dress, trimmed
sels to correspond; confined in the front with at the bottom with a broad straw-coloured
a large brooch of coloured stones. A turbau i satin ribband, and a double floupce of broad
cap of white satin, ornamented as the dress ; || French lace; a large shawl of fine, clear, soft
ou the bind part of which is worn a bunch of muslin bound with yellow, and embroidered in
violets and primroses intermixed. The bair the corners with yellow jessamine, jonquilles,
in full curls. Larrings, necklace, and brace or ranunculus. A light lace veil thrown over
lets of coloured stones. French shawl of rich the hair.
shut silk. Gloves and shoes of yellow kid. 5. A white satia Austrian tippet, wbich is

simply a pelerine and hood, with a bonnet com-
No. 2.-
-WALKING DRESS.

posed of white satin patted ribband; A round dress of plain white India mnslin,

over a fiue Iudia jacconot trimmed at the botwith long sleeves, made a walking length, and

tom with ribband, edging, or a double row of trimmed round the bottom with a broad French lace; if edging it must be put on plain, if lace lace, made low in the neck, over which is care-1 full. lessly thrown (as suits the taste of the wearer)

6. A mountain het of white chip, orna. a French scarf of pale-yellow silk, with rich mented with a full bunch of fancy grass border. A bonnet of pale yellow to corre

ground ivy, or blue bells: a pelisse of pale spond with the scarf, with white lace veil. The green or blue sarsnet scolloped, a walking hair in full curls over the face, divided rather length, worn over a cambric jacconot dress towards the left side. Parasol of light yellow, trimmed with sheli edging. with white fringe. Gloves and shoes of yellow kid.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

AND REFLECTIONS ON

FASHION AND DRESS. 1. A short dress of the new invented cord We were surprised to learn by a lady just ed muslin (which we described in our last), returned from France, that, notwithstanding trimmed at a small distance from the bottom the difficulty of communication between the with a broad pale-pink satin ribband; a lace two countries, a striking similarity at this round tippet, lined, and lied with pale pink; a moment prevails between the fashions of Lon. bonnet composed of lace and satin, to corre. don and Paris. The chief difference consists spond, sitting round, and rather off the face; in degree rather than substance. The ladies with the hair dressed in a full tuft underneath, were more exposed about the neck, and their or raised by a bunch of apple or almond- l hair was dressed with more fancy; but the blossom.

form was in almost every thing the same. 2. A pelisse of pale celestial blue, confined White robes of the most airy texture were uni. to the back, but flowing loose over the shoul versal ; shawis, pelisses, scarfs, and all orna. ders and under the arms; a bonuet of the same ments were of the softest and most delicate material, ornamented with a feather of the tints; yellow seemed the favourite colour; like colour; a robe of fine India muslin, wild Howers were most esteemed for the hair; trnished at the bottom with a fine uarrow van. no woman of fashion is ever seen in any pube

1

A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL DRESSES WORN

BY LADIES OF RANK AND FASHION.

with us;

lic walk with either bonnet or cap; a veil of ') colour or wankeen ground, speckled in green io black or u bite lace, throwu negligently over the a small bird's eye pattern; it was in a pelisse hair, which is always simply dressed avd con which was made short and trimmed with a fined by a gold, pearl, or studded comb behind, deep black French lace. Black and white lace supplies the place; a great profusion of rib cloaks are again revived, and are as yet conbands plaited in every possible fanciful form, fined to the fashionable world, where we think adorn the dresses which are otherwise very they might have some chance of remaining, if plain ; the waists are worn rather longer than ow ladies would only condescend to wear lace,

but the French manage these things and not submit to any vile imitations, and rebetter than we do; the person appears less member that all apologies are despicable; stiff and confined under its restraints; ease thus they might appropriate at all times the and elegance, with an apparent vegligence is quality though out the form of their fashions, the characteristic of their style of dress. and so keep presumptuous imitators at a disThe prevalence of the cold easterly winds

tance.

Shawls in black and white lace we during the last month, cannot more sensibly have likewise seen a few of, and think their have affected the vegetable than the fashiou- ' numbers will increase. lo full promenade able world, for to this cause we suppose we dress, wlien the weather is remarkably fine, must ascribe the little novelty we have observ. : the hair should be dressed with merely a light ed in our gay promenades; the atmosphere , lace veil, raised by a gold or pearl comb, or has been so unsettled, that no dependance bunch of flowers thrown over it. The bonnet could be placed in the weather for two hours should correspond in quality, as well as cotogether; our climate is a terrible enemy to lour, with the pelisse; and unless worn much that airy elegant style of dress so well adapted on one side and ornamented with a white to the light nymph-like figure of our fair ostrich feather drooping on one side of the country women.

face, should be much interspersed with lace, As Kensington-Gardens is generally suppos. the front wbully composed of it, and raised ed to be the most fashionable place of resort at from the face with a bunch of wild roses mixed this season of the year, we have drawn our will geranium. Lace handkercbiefs, woru on samples of fashion, for the most part from this the head with a flower in front, or a cap with

Jappets,may with propriety be worn on a pubMantles we observed are entirely laid aside, Tic parade. and are prettily supplied by the Austrian tip- ! In Morning dress we have seen nothing new; pet in white satin, but as names generally, they are either laced in the back, wrapped convey but little idea, we must mention that la

over the bosom, or made in the French coat this tippet is made round, in the pelerine form, form, over a petticoat and body of the same; with a small hood composed of lace and satin ; the coat, sleeres, collar, and bottom of the white satin caps or bonnets, are worn with dress is then usually trimmed with vandyke this dress, ornamented with white ostrich ribband, or edged with fine iace eniging. The feathers. We observed that among ladies of waists are woru rather lon', but by no means the first rank a visible preference was given to in the extreme, It is almost needless to oh. pelisses in plain or figured sarspet; they were serve, that nothing but white cau be worn in made in the back of an easy graceful length, the morniny --lor Dinuer, or afternoon eonfined in, but loosely flowing over the shoul. dresses, sarsen ts are the most appropriate, ders, and falling back so as to display the made just above the rise of the bosoin, ornadress, which was necessarily made bigh in the mented with worked muslin or lace, in the neck, with a profusion of lace let in, and trin form of a small havdkerchief or tippet; the med round the bottom with a double founce sleeves are universally worn long. The trains of lace.

are not increased in length; a band clasped Pelisses were mostly of a walking length, with coloured gems, remains the most prevailscolloped round the bottom, with elastic col- ing oraament for the waist. Jars, that either stand up or fall back. Spen In Evening, or full dress, the gowns are sers are now confined to the morning, except made considerably lower in the bosom, but those which are now made of white sarsenet, with long sleeves, and still in the frock style trimmed with broad lace; these rank high in bebind, with a moderate train, the bottom the first class of dress. Lace tippets, lined trimined with a double Rounce of lace, or a with Persian, and wbite satin edged with Van plain narrow edging. A profusion of ribband dyke edging, were very generally seen on per in trimmings is worn, intermix d with crape, soos of taste and fashion. A silk we saw which lace, figured gauses or plain maslins. In struck us tu be perfectly now, was of a flesu Dancing dresses, a variety of trimmings in

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arliticial flowers are worn, but here again the advanciog the body gives an easy gait to the
sleeves are worn long, to conceal the effect of carriage.
the quick circulation of blood in the arnis. lu respect to Jewellery, this is not the sea-
On the head of a very interesting girl we 10 son of ornament, speaking generally, all pas
ticed a simple wreath of butter-cups, which, ture is so gay that we require little embellisha
laying very fat on the hair, was very becom- ment from art. Necklaces in pearl, diamonds,
ing

aud amathysts seem most in esteem, with drop
Shoes are worn, for walking, to correspond earrings, ornaments for the waist and hair to
with the dress, but where the colours will ad-correspond, in the fancy of flowers, flies, har-
wit of a contrast, the while Morocco for the lequius; peacocks, corobets, stars, tishes, &c.
promenade seems to be preferred; sandals are -The prevailing colours for the season are
in much esteemn, the toes of the shoes are also pale blue, lilac, and lilac shot with pink, pale
somewhat more taper; spring heels are com Fellow, pink, straw, lavender bloom, amber
ing in; a little rise in the heels sets off a pretty shot with wbite, and apple-green.
instep and ancle to great advantage, and by

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MONTHLY MISCELLANY.

INCLUDING

VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

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press, with

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.

TORKS IN THE PRESS. COVENT-GARDEN.-Shakespeare's King John Cowper's Translation of the Iliad and Odys. was perforined at this Theatre on Thursday, sey of Homer, illustrated by fifty engravings, May 17, and it was gotten up with the taste from the paintings and designs of Fuseli, which such a drama so well merits. Shakes. Howard, Smirke, Stothard, Westall, &c. will peare himself may not owe much to Mr. Kem- be speedily published. ble, because Shakespeare cau never be exhibit.

Mr. E. A. Kendall has in the press Travels ed to the same advantage withi which he is

in the northern parts of the United States in read. But the audience are much iudebied to

1807, 1808, 1909, and 1810. The country deMr. Kenable, for, without his management and

scribed in this work comprises an important professional skill, Shakespeare would be nearly portion of the American States, and one with lost to the stage, though he might still live in

which we are at present comparatively unacthe closet.

quainted; it will contain many historical no. King John is one of those plays in which tices, and be embellished with several plates. Shakespeare displays his genius in working on

An edition of Lord Valentia's Travels, in the materials of nature. He conceives the

octavo, is prepariug for the

many character of King John such as historians have

correctious and some abridgments of the less represented him in his acts, and he tills up the importaot parts of the narrative. outline sy as to give us the perfect man. What writer for example, so forcibly brings neation of Scenery in England, Scotland, and

Sketches of Life and Manners, with DeliHenry VIII. and Cardinal IV olsey before our eyes. The merit of the actor is not to spoil

, Ireland, interspersed with Moral Tales and not to diminish, the excellence of the Poet~' | Anecdotes, in original letters by a Lady, will

speedily make their appearance.
to become a worthy voice, mind, and organ to
bis meaning-such is that of Mr. Kemble.

An interesting volume, entitled Travels and
It is difficult to separate the praise of Mrs. Adventures in Canada and the Indian Terri-
Sidelons from that of her brother, and to exo

tories, between 1760 and 1766, by A. Henry,

Esq. may shortly be expected.
press their similar excellence in different
terms.- Mrs. Siddons was the same equal re-

The Rev. W. Phelps has in the press

a Bopresentative of Constance that Kemble was oftanical Calendar, exhibiting at one view the King John. Every thing was natural, and the i generic and specific name, the class, order, and sympathy of the house bore evidence to the habital of all the British Plants, arranged acexcellence of the acting. General feeling is cording to the time of their flowering under never called forth but by what is natural, and

each month of the year. in the imitative arts nature is excellence.

Mr. G. Colman is preparing for publication

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a translation of the works of Terence, in fami The tigure of Christ in this composition, Jiar blauk verse.

is, perhaps, without a single exception, the Mr. Dallas is preparing for the press a new bappiest which has ever been produced by Mr. edition of bis nuvels, entitled Percival, Aubrey, West. Our Lord is teaching lumility, aud and the Morlands, to be printed in a uniform the lesson is finely impressed in the character, inanner in six volumes. To those le proposes and the corresponding movements of the to add a seventh, containing Poeins, Dramas, ; figure; with his right hand he genlly holds the and Aloral Essays.

child, and with his left he points to a ray of The Rev. David Saville, of Edinburgh, is '' light which breaks in from the upper part printing a Series of Discourses on the peculiar of the picture, and explains the lesson which Doctrines of Revelation, in an octaro volume. lhe was addressing to his disciples. The whole

The amateurs of the fine arts will learn with deportment of the figure of Christ is that of a pleasure that it is intended to publish by sub- digmiied humility; perfectly sinple; witbout scription a fac simile of Wilson's Sketch Book, art, without ostentation. There is a fine exLeing Studies and Designs made by that great pression in the child, yielding with complaartist in Italy and Rome, in 1752. It will con cency to the will of the Saviour, but shewing, sist of fifty plates, the size of the original, and at the same time, a timidity aud reluctauce at form a demy quarto volume.

leaving the sister. Mr. G. Cumberland, of Bristol, has in the In the subordinate parts of this picture press two volumes of Original Tales. He is there is no departure from the simplicity of likewise preparing for publication a work with the subject. The hack ground is quiet and sixty engravings, on the Principles of the Com- unadorued; the drapery of the Saviour is exposition of the Ancients.

pressive of that digoity and simplicity which Dr. Jonathan Scott is preparing a new edi belong to the externals of such a Beiug; the tion of his Persian Tales, entitled Bahar Da child is nearly naked, to denote its purity, and nushi, or Garden of Knowledge. Some of the the dress of the sister has the character of most eminent Orientalists who have collated youth, both in colour and quantity. The cothe translation with the original, have spoken lour seems arranged in that order which is in the highest terms of the utility of this work

every way appropriate to the subject, and the to those who study the Eastern style of com complexions of the three characters bare that position, and particularly to such persons as precision and uicety of distinction which serve wish to acquire a kuowledge of the manners to denote, iu each, its peculiar age and quaand customs of Hindoostan.

lity; and, as far as colour can express, to

maintain the just attributes of character, with. FINE ARTS.

out any sacrifice of the higher excellences of ROYAL ACADEMY.-The first Picture which strikes us in the present Exhibition, is

No. 3. Hercules, to deliver Theseus, assails and one from tbe venerable President, Mr. West; wounds Pluto.-H. Fuseli, R. A.–This is a the subject is, Christ teaches to be Humble. subject which might bave been left, witb proThe coin position consists of three figures-- priety, undisturbed amongst the stores of Pu. Christ, a little child, and a youthful sister. etry, without any envy of the sister art. Our Saviour is here represented by the painter

Mr. Fuseli, as an excellent critic, must jo that distinctive part of bis character, as a

know that there are degrees of truth iu fiction, I reacher of Righteousness, enlarging the land of probability in falsehood, and that ibe bounds of moral duty by the great command- || poetic world has its prodigies and monsters ; ment of Charity, and the practieal lesson of its “airy tongues which syllable men's names ;" Humility. He is, therefore, with great pro its chattering brooks, and bleeding rocks, priety, represented as addressing liimself to which are peculiar to its own creation and mankind, and enforcing his commandments by | fancy, and to which the painter can bave no the most familiar and intelligible examples. claim from the afiinity of bis art, and bas cer.

It was necessary in forining tbis subject tainly no inducement to employ from any apa. upon the canvass, that the child should not be logy in the pleasure they convey. brought forward solitary and woconnected : It must be confessed that this picture conMr. West, therefore, has made choice of a tains that peculiar energy which is seen in the youthful sister to accompany the child ; a con works of Mr. Fuseli. The movement of the nection which maintains the innocency of the Hercules as be delirers the shaft from his bow groupe, and produces that purity which any is very finely conceived ; and the emotion of other figure, more advanced in life, might in | Pluto, and the alarm of his attendants, at the some degree kare impaired.

assault made upon the Alonarcha uf the shades,

art.

are represcuted with surprising sublimity and || life, he will give to his country works of great force. The figure of Theseus is very finely celebrity. The only fault we have to find with grouped with the Hercules, and the action the present work, is, that it abounds too much of each is appropriate and well managed. with that overcharged nature, and ostentations

We are disposed to give Mr. Fuseli every appendages, which are peculiar to the stage. praise for undertaking a subject of such mag Theatrical nature, from the necessity of the nitude and difficulty, and which necessarily fiction of the scene, is raised above the sobrie. wade such calls upon his imagination ; but ly of truth and reality; but this deception, we lament his choice of one of the musi harsh which the stage requires in order to effect cerand unmeaning tictions of poetry.

tain ends, it should be the province of paiut. Every sulject of the poetic kind in painting to correct, and not to adopt. ing should have one of these two characteris The character of Ulysses is somewhat detics: it should either be a portraiture of some fictive; it has too much of the familiar cast thing strong and determinate in character, or of portrait, and that obvious character which is should appeal to the eye by what is forcible in repugnant to the ideal grandeur of an Epic Hero. figure, like the beauty of the Antinous, or the No. 190. A subject from Ossian. -S. Drum. muscular lines of the Gladiator.

mond, A.-This picture abounds with those lo Plutu there is nothing of this kind : we points wbich convey to our feelings the spirit can know nothing of Pluto but through the land genius peculiar to the subject. There is heathen poets, and none of thein bas given us a fancy that shines out in the grouping of the a personal or a poetic representation, which figures which does great honour to Mr. Drumassigos him any character for painting; he is mond, and maintains that character whicla a mere heather god of soot and darkness, a has distinguished many of his pictures. It is strong-backed coal-porter, a worthy pot com with pleasure that we see this meritorious ar. panion of his own boatman Charon.

tist bringing yearly into the Exhibition works How any painter with the genius of Fuseli of a very high class in imagination. could so wholly mistake in his choice of sub No. 99. Titania.-H. Howard, R. A.-The ject, we are at a loss to comprehend — he had subject of this picture is from that pleasing the liad open before him.

dramatic romance, the “ Midsummer Night's Mr. Fuseli seems to have chosen this sub- Dream" of Shakespeare; and it must be conject, not with any view to composition or po fessed that the painter has well sustained the etic character, but with the sole purpose of genius of the Poet, and shewn a power of shewing the energetic action of the human fancy which reflects no less praise upon his figure, and the violence of muscular move. invention thay credit upon his executive powa ment.

ers. The composition consists of four figures; There was no distinction more marked be a little Puck, who is one of them, being tweeu Raphael and Michael Angelo, than that thrown iu the back ground The figure of Tithe former always sought to paint mind, and tania is at once grand and beautiful;

she rethe latter, to shew the powers of his pencil, by poses under flowers with grace and elegance, delineating motion. Raphael, in his action of and the surrounding landscape is full of amethe human figure, gave both body and mind.nity and picturesque vature. The style of head Michael Angelo little more than muscles and which the Painter has given to Titania is exmotion. If Mr. Fuseli bad wished to shew tremely grand, and the softness of feminine his powers in the same way, why not have beauty is preserved without any loss of diglaken Hercules wrestling with Antæus, or tear-nity-a kind of negative coloura deep puring up trees by the roots, and tossing them in iple tint is shed around her, which gives a very The air ju bis madness? Here he would have happy effect to the general hue of the picture: had an union of passion and force-tension of the contrivance of the group, and the action muscle, and a bold and difficult outline; as of every figure, are well imagined, and the is he has given us mere naked mythology. drapery is light and gay without being Aimsy

No. 4. Andromeche imploring Ulysses to spare and unmeaning. The figures are well drawn, the life of her Son.-G. Dawe, A.-It gives us full of classic art and poetical invention; but pleasure to observe in this picture the prin- if there be any thing which we could wish ciples of just thinking in relation to the sub- otherwise, it is, that the figure of Titanie ject, united with those points of art which are is rather too corporeal ; her form is too bulky, necessary to express and enforce it. From perhaps somewhat too familiar, for the exam. the advance in art which Mr. Dawe has con- ples of ideal beauty–Upon the whole, bow, spicuously made in this picture, we have rea ever, this is the very best work wbich Mr aon to believe that, at a mature period of his Howard has hitherto produced. N.. V. l'ol. I.

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