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PART SECOND.

We now come to the practical part of our work; and our aim shall be to make the reader understand everything necessary to the successful and profitable management of bees. This book is not written for the benefit of the advanced students of bee-history; and if they chance to look into its pages they will find some things twice repeated, and evidence enough of an extra effort made to instruct the most ignorant to manage his bees intelligently and well. It is Cobbett who says that all books should be written for the benefit of those who are entirely ignorant of the subjects of which they treat. If this is necessary on most subjects, it is absolutely necessary when the subject of the bee-hive is considered, because the bees in that hive have stings, which tend to prevent investigations being made by new beginners.

The reader is requested to remember, that our stating certain facts and opinions will not make him, or anybody else, an intelligent bee-manager, unless his mind be fully convinced and held captive by the reasonableness of such statement. All is to be weighed in the balance of his own reason, and whatsoever is found light and wanting he will cast aside. If a thing must be done, please to let us have the why and the wherefore; and then tell us how to do it.

CHAPTER XIV.

THE APIARY OR BEE-GARDEN.

Ir is not which garden, but which place in the garden, shall the bees occupy? Every bee-keeper consults his own convenience in the choice of a spot on which to place his bee-hives. Near the door, or in front of a window, from which the swarms can be seen, is generally preferred by cottagers, for they have not much time to lose in watching for the swarms leaving their hives. So far as honeygathering goes, one corner of the garden will answer as well as another. And it does not matter much, if anything at all, whether the hives look east or west, north or south. Hives placed in the centre of a wood or small forest, where the rays of the sun never reach them, thrive about as well as those placed outside to bask in his smiles all day long.

A sheltered corner, with an open space in front, and at some distance from ponds or sheets of water, is perhaps the best possible in any neighbourhood for bees. If hives are placed in an exposed and bleak situation, or near sheets of water, high winds do a little harm to them. Bees with heavy loads are fatigued when they return to their hives, and therefore it is desirable to let them enter them as safely and speedily as possible. If driven to the ground by the violence of the wind, they sustain a rueful

shock, and have to rest a considerable time, and perhaps be driven down a second time.

In the winter time a sunny spot is of greater advantage to bees than it is in the summer; for when bees come out for a dance and airing during the dark days of winter, the rays of the sun prevent many that sit down to rest from being chilled to death. Still, practically and experimentally considered, the advantages of such sheltered places are of small importance. If the pasture of the neighbourhood be good, bees will do well wheresoever placed. On the housetop and on the bleak hillside, underneath the hedgerow and in the open field, we have found them to thrive exceedingly. We have seen them placed amid lofty houses, where they were compelled to rise to their tops in short spiral turns, and drop down about as perpendicularly as a bucket in a well, and yet, in this position, collect from 4 lb. to 6 lb. per day, per hive, in fine weather. An unfavourable position for an apiary will not, we hope, prevent any of our readers from keeping bees, for they have wits and ingenuity enough to make the best of every position. A warm sheltered place is, however, recommended for the home of bees.

How far should hives be off the ground, and how far asunder?

We think 8 inches above the ground is quite enough, and most of our hives in summer are not more than 4 inches above the level of the ground. But why keep them so near the ground? Is the health of the bees not affected when placed near the earth? Bees are as healthy when placed 2 inches above the ground as when placed 20. If hives are raised 2 and 3 feet above the ground, the bees, when heavily burdened, often miss the flightboard on their return from the fields, and thus come un

expectedly to the ground; and, by reason of the sudden and severe shake, they do not rise for some time, and many are chilled to death ere they gain nerve and resolution enough to make another attempt.

If an elevated position has any advantages at all, we have hitherto failed to learn what they are.

Three posts, about 15 inches long, driven half their length into the ground, answer well for a stand for one hive. These posts are driven into the ground about 15 inches apart, and the front one a little lower than the two behind, so as to make the rain run off the flight-board, and not into the hive. Three round stones or river bullets, half buried in the soil, will answer as well as the posts. In fact, anything that is well grounded and secure, and rising a few inches above the ground, is quite as good as something better for stands for bee-hives. Some beekeepers are of opinion that bee-hives are like corn-stacks, if not placed high above the ground vermin will go in and eat their treasures. A very little schooling will teach these men how to keep mice out of their hives, without hoisting them aloft on ugly single posts.

How far should hives be placed asunder? As far as convenience will permit. When we come to the chapter on artificial swarming, it will be pretty evident to the reader that 6 feet distance between stock hives is near enough. Many reasons could be given in favour of some distance being left between hive and hive. When apart 5 or 6 feet, young bees and young queens do not mistake their own hives; but if hives are near each other, mistakes may and do happen, and ruinous consequences follow.

But where many hives are kept, would you have them spread all over the garden? No, if economy of space and