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the wreck of the St. John. The ocean has, in course of time, eaten out Boston did not look, now, as if any were ever harbor and other bays in the main land, shipwrecked in it; it was not grand and and that the minute fragments have sublime, but beautiful as a lake. Not & been deposited by the currents at a vestige of a wreck was visible, nor could distance from the shore, and formed this I believe that the bones of many a ship- sand bank. Above the sand, if the wrecked man were buried in that pure surface is subjected to agricultural tests, sand. But to go on with our first ex- there is found to be a thin layer of soil cursion.

gradually diminishing from Barnstable

to Truro, where it ceases; but there are STAGE-COACH VIEWS.

many holes and rents in this weatherAfter spending the night in Bridge beaten garment not likely to be stitched water, and picking up a few arrowheads in time, which reveal the naked flesh of there in the morning, we took the cars the Cape, and its extremity is completefor Sandwich, where we arrived before ly bare. noon. This was the terminus of the I at once got out my book, the eighth *Cape Cod Railroad," though it is but volume of the Collections of the Masthe beginning of the Cape. As it rained sachusetts Historical Society, printed in hard, with driving mists, and, as there 1802, which contains some short notices was no sign of its holding up, we here of the Cape towns, and began to read up took that almost obsolete conveyance, to where I was—for in the cars I could the stage, for "as far as it went that not read as fast as I traveled. To those day," as we told the driver. We had who came from the side of Plymouth, it forgotten how far a stage could go in a said:-“ After riding through a body day, but we understood that the Cape of woods, twelve miles in extent, inroads were very “heavy," though they terspersed with but few houses, the settold us that, being of sand, the rain tlement of Sandwich appears, with a would improve them. This coach was more agreeable effect, to the eye of the an exceedingly narrow one, but as there traveler." Another writer speaks of was a slight spherical excess over two this as a beautiful village. But I think on a seat, the driver waited till nine that our villages will bear to be conpassengers had got in, without taking trasted only with one another, not with the measure of any of them, and then Nature. I have no great respect for the shut the door after two or three ineffec- writer's taste, who talks easily about tual slams, as if the fault were all in the beautiful villages, embellished, perhinges or the latch—while we timed our chance, with a “fulling-mill," "a handinspirations and expirations so as to as- some academy," or meeting-house, and sist him.

"a number of shops for the different meWe were now fairly on the Cape, chanic arts;" where the green and white which extends from Sandwich eastward houses of the gentry, drawn up in rows, thirty-five miles, and thence north and front on a street of which it would be northwest thirty more, in all sixty-five, difficult to tell whether it is most like a and has an average breadth of about desert or a long stable-yard. Such five miles. In the interior it rises to the spots can be beautiful only to the weary hight of two hundred, and sometimes traveler, or the returning native-or, perhaps three hundred, feet above the perchance, the repentant misanthrope; level of the sea. According to Hitch- not to him who, with unprejudiced senses, cock, the geologist of the State, it is has just come out of the woods, and apcomposed almost entirely of sand, even proaches one of them, by a bare road, to the depth of three hundred feet in through a succession of straggling some places—though there is probably homesteads where he cannot tell which a concealed core of rock a little beneath is the alms-house. However, as for the surface-and it is of diluvial origin, Sandwich, I cannot speak particularly. excepting a small portion at the extremi- Ours was but half a Sandwich at most, ty and elsewhere along the shores, which and that must have fallen on the butteris alluvial. For the first half of the ed side some time. I only saw that it Cape large blocks of stone are found, was a closely-built town for a small one, here and there, mixed with the sand, but with glass-works to improve its sand, and for the last thirty miles boulders, or narrow streets in which we turned round even gravel, are rarely met with. and round till we could not tell which Hitchcock conjectures that the ocean way we were going, and the rain came

in, first on this side, and then on that, and I saw that they in the houses were more comfortable than we in the coach. My book also said of this town—"the inhabitants, in general, are substantial livers,” that is, I suppose, they do not live like philosophers; but, as the stage did not stop long enough for us to dine, we had no opportunity to test the truth of this statement. It may have referred, however, to the quantity "of oil they would yield.” It further said, "the inhabitants of Sandwich generally manifest a fond and steady adherence to the manners, employments and modes of living which characterized their fathers;" which made me think that they were, after all, very much like all the rest of the world, and it added that this was “ a resemblance, which, at this day, will constitute no impeachment of either their virtue or taste;" which remark only proves to me that the writer was one with the rest of them. No people ever lived by cursing their fathers, however great a curse their fathers may have been to them. But it must be confessed that ours was old authority, and probably they have changed all that


Our route was along the Bay side, through Barnstable, Yarmouth, Dennis and Brewster, to Orleans, with a range of low hills on our right, running down the Cape. The weather was not favorable for wayside views, but we made the most of such glimpses of land and water as we could get through the rain. The country was, for the most part, bare, or with only a little scrubby wood left on the hills. We noticed in Yarmouth-and, if I do not mistake, in Dennis-large tracts where pitch pines were planted four or five years before. They were in rows, as they appeared when we were abreast of them, and, excepting that there were extensive vacant spaces, seemed to be doing remarkably well. This, we were told, was the only use to which such tracts could be profitably put. Every higher eminence had a pole set up on it, with an old stormcoat or sail tied to it, for a signal, that those on the south side of the Cape, for instance, might know when the Boston packets had arrived on the north. It appeared as if this use must absorb the greater part of the old clothes of the Cape, leaving but few rags for the peddlers. The wind-mills on the hills-large weather-stained octagonal structures

and the salt-works scattered all along the shore—with their long rows of vats resting on piles driven into the marsh, their low, turtle-like roofs, and their slighter wind-mills—were novel and interesting objects to a countryman. The sand by the roadside was partially covered with bunches of a moss-like plant, Hudsonia tormentosa, which, a woman in the stage told us, was called “poverty grass,” because it grew where nothing else would.

I was struck by the pleasant equality which reigned among the stage company, and their broad and invulnerable good humor. They were what is called

free and easy, and met one another to advantage, as men who had, at length, learned how to live. They appeared to know each other when they were strangers, they were so simple and downright. They were well met, in an unusual sense, that is, they met as well as they could meet, and did not seem to be troubled with any impediment. They were not afraid, nor ashamed of one another, but were contented to make just such a company as the ingredients allowed. It was evident, that the same foolish respect was not here claimed, for mere wealth and station, that is in many parts of New England; yet, some of them were the “first people," as they are called, of the various towns through which we passed. Retired seacaptains, in easy circumstances, who talked of farming as sea-captains are wont; an erect, respectable, and trustworthy looking man, in his wrapper, some of the salt of the earth, who had formerly been the salt of the sea; or a more courtly gentleman, who, perchance, had been a representative to the General Court, in his day; or a broad, red-faced Cape Cod man, who had seen too many storms to be easily irritated; or a fisherman's wife, who had been waiting a week for a coaster, to leave Boston, and had at length come by the

Still we kept on in the rain, or, if we stopped, it was commonly at a postoffice, and we thought, that writing letters, and sorting them against our arrival, must be the principal employment of the inhabitants of the Cape, this rainy day. The Post-office appeared a singularly domestic institution here. Ever and anon the stage stopped before some low shop or dwelling, and a wheelwright or shoemaker appeared in his


shirt sleeves and leather apron, with there was erected in Dennis "an elegant spectacles newly donned, holding up meeting-house, with a steeple.” PerUncle Sam's bag, as if it were a slice haps, this was the one; though whether of home-made cake, for the travelers, it had a steeple, or had died down so while he retailed some piece of gossip far from sympathy with the poplars, I , to the driver, really as indifferent to do not remember. Another meetingthe presence of the former, as if they house in this town was described as a were so much baggage. In one instance, “neat building," but of the meetingwe understood that a woman was the house in Chatham, a neighboring town, post-mistress, and they said that she for there was then but one, nothing is made the best one on the road; but we said, except that it is in good repair," suspected that the letters must be sub- both which remarks, I trust, may be jected to a very close scrutiny there. understood as applying to the churches While we were stopping, for this pur- spiritual as well as material. However, pose, at Dennis, we ventured to put our "elegant meeting-houses,” from that heads out of the windows, to see where Trinity one, on Broadway, to this at we were going, and saw rising before Nobscusset, in my estimation, belong us, through the mist, singular barren to the same category with “beautiful hills, all stricken with poverty grass, villages." I was never in season to looming up as if they were in the hori- see one. Handsome is that handsome zon, though they were close to us, and does. What they did for shade hero, in we thought we had got to the end of warm weather, we did not know, though the land on that side, notwithstanding we read that " fogs are more frequent that the horses were still headed that in Chatham than in any other part of way. Indeed, that part of Dennis the country; and they serve, in summer, which we saw was an exceedingly bar- instead of trees, to shelter the houses ren and desolate country, of a charac- against the heat of the sun. To those ter which I can find no name for; such who delight in extensive vision,"—is it to a surface, perhaps, as the bottom of the be inferred that the inhabitants of Chatsea made dry land day before yesterday. ham do not ?—" they are unpleasant, It was covered with poverty grass, and but they are not found to be unhealthful.” there was hardly a tree in sight, but Probably, also, the unobstructed seahere and there a little weather-stained, breeze answers the purpose of a fan. one-storied house, with a red roof-for The road, which was quite hilly, here often the roof was painted, though the ran near the Bay-shore, having the Bay rest of the house was not-standing on one side and “the rough bill of bleak and cheerless, yet, with a broad Scargo," said to be the highest land on foundation to the land, where the com- the Cape, on the other. Of the wide fort must have been all inside. Yet we prospect of the Bay, afforded by the read in the Gazeteer, for we carried summit of this hill, our guide says : that, too, with us, that in '37, one hun- “ The view has not much of the beautidred and fifty masters of vessels, be- ful in it, but it communicates a strong longing to this town, sailed from the emotion of the sublime." That is the various ports of the Union. There kind of communication which we love must be many more houses in the south to have made to us. We passed part of the town, else we cannot ima- through the village of Suet, in Dennis, gine where they all lodge when they are on Suet and Quivet Necks, of which it at home, if ever they are there; but is said, “ when compared with Nobthe truth is, their houses are floating scusset"-we had a misty recollection ones, and their home is on the ocean. of having passed through, or near to, There were almost no trees at all in the latter, —“it may be denominated a this part of Dennis, nor could I learn pleasant village ; but, in comparison that they talked of setting, out any. with the village of Sandwich, there is It is true, there was a meeting-house, little or no beauty in it.” However, we set round with Lombardy poplars, in a liked Dennis well, better than any town hollow square, the rows fully as straight we had seen on the Cape, it was so as the studs of a building, and the cor- novel, and, in that stormy day, so subners as square; but, if I do not mistake, limely dreary. every one of them was dead. I could Captain John Sears, of Suet, was the not help thinking that they needed a revi- first person in this country who obtained val here. Our book said, that, in 1795, pure marine salt by solar evaporation


alone ; though it had long been made in drifted across the bay. I call them a similar way on the coast of France, American, because they are paid for by and elsewhere. This was in the year Americans, and "put up" by American 1776, at which time, on account of the carpenters; but they are little removed war, salt was scarce and dear. The from lumber, only eastern stuff disHistorical Collections contain an inter- guised with white paint, the least inter. esting account of his experiments, esting kind of drift-wood to me. Per which we read when we first saw the haps we have reason to be proud of oui roofs of the salt-works. Barnstable naval architecture, and need not go to county is the most favorable locality the Greeks, or the Goths, or the Italians, for these works on our coast, there is so for the models of our vessels. Sealittle fresh water here emptying into captains do not employ a CambridgeOcean. Quite recently there were port carpenter to build their floating about two millions of dollars invested houses, and for their houses on shore, in this business here. But now the if they must copy any, it would be Cape is unable to compete with the im- more agreeable to the imagination to porters of salt and the manufacturers see one of their vessels turned bottom of it at the West, and, accordingly, her upward, in the Numidian fashion. We salt-works are fast going to decay. read that, “at certain seasons, the reFrom making salt, they turn to fishing flection of the sun upon the windows more than ever. The Gazetteer will of the houses in Wellfleet and Truro uniformly tell you, under the head of [across the inner side of the elbow of each town, more correctly than I can, the Cape) is discernible with the naked how many go a-fishing, and the value eye, at a distance of eighteen miles and of the fish and oil taken, how much salt upward, on the county road." This is made and used, how many are en- we were pleased to imagine, as we had gaged in the coasting trade, how many not seen the sun for twenty-four hours. in manufacturing palm-leaf hats, leather, At length, we stopped for the night boots, shoes, and tinware, and then it at Higgins's tavern, in Orleans, feeling has done, and leaves you to imagine the very much as if we were on a sand-bar more truly domestic manufactures which in the ocean, and not knowing whether are nearly the same all the world over. we should see land or water ahead when

Late in the afternoon, we rode through the mist cleared away. We here overBrewster, so named after Elder Brew- took two Italian boys, who had waded ster, for fear he would be forgotten else. thus far down the Cape through the Who has not heard of Elder Brewster ? sand, with their organs on their backs, Who knows who he was? This ap- and were going on to Provincetown. peared to be the modern-built town of What a hard lot, we thought, if the the Cape, the favorite residence of re- Provincetown people should shut their tired sea-captains. It is said that doors against them! Whose yard " there are more masters and mates, would they go to next? Yet we conof vessels which sail on foreign voy- cluded that they had chosen wisely to ages, belonging to this place than to come here, where other music than that any other town in the country.” There of the surf must be rare. Thus the were many of the modern American great civilizer sends out its emissaries, houses here, such as they turn out at sooner or later, to every sandy cape and Cambridgeport, standing on the sand; light-house of the New World, which the you could almost swear that they had census-taker visits, and summons the been floated down Charles River, and savage there to surrender.

(To be continued.)

“• Woe to that man,' his warning voice replied
To all who question'd, or in silence sighed-
• Woe to that man who ventures truth to win,

And seeks his object by the path of sin!'"-SCHILLER. “I

friend, of those Mormons! I have Mrs. Frazer, she sent for me that I should had some reasons of my own for dis- tell the child Adeline, for she had given liking them!” said Parson Field to me, proofs of a singular nature, ardent and as we sat together, one August noon, in self-confident in the extreme. I took the porch of his red house at Plain- my hat, and went over to Mrs. Frazer's, field.

with a very heavy heart, for the grief “Do tell me, sir," said I, settling of a child is a fearful thing to me, myself in an easy attitude to hear his and to be the bringer of evil tidings, story-for a story from Parson Field that shall stain the pureness and calm was not to be despised-his quaint sim- of a child's thoughts with the irreparaplicity bringing out, in old-time and ex- ble shadow of death, is no light thing, pressive phrases, whatever he describes nor easily to be done. I entered into the with the clear fidelity of an interior by house one day in June : it was a very Mieris. “Do tell me,” said I again, sweet day, and, as I walked quietly into with a deeper emphasis; whereat the the low kitchen, I saw Adeline, with old gentleman looked at me over his her head resting on her hands, and her spectacles, and, smiling benignantly into large eyes eagerly gazing out of the winmy eager face, began.

dow at the gambols of a scarlet-throated 6. When I first came to Plainfield,” said humming-bird. I went close to her, he, "more than thirty years ago, I had and thought to myself that I would been a minister of the Lord only ten speak, but I did not, for I saw that, in years, and I had been settled for that her little pale face, which made me more period of time in a large city, where I sad than before ; and I had it on my served acceptably to a worthy congre- lips to say, * Adeline, are you homegation; but certain reasons of my own sick?' (which was the thing of all others induced me to leave that situation, and I should not say) when suddenly she come here to live, where also I found turned about, and answered the question acceptance, and not many months after before I spoke it. I came there was a considerable reviv- * • Sir,' said she, I wish I was in ing of the work in this place, and many Cuba. I had just such a humming-bird believed. Of these was a certain Joseph at home; and I fed it with orange boughs Frazer, a young Scotchman, concerning full of white flowers, every day; but whom I felt much misgiving, lest he you have no orange trees here, and I should take the wrong path; but he, in have no papa! due season, joined himself to the church, " It seemed to me that the child's and edified the brethren in walk and angel had thus opened the way for me conversation; so that, when he left to speak, and I began to say some Plainfield and settled in the West In- things about the love of our universal dies, we were loth to have him go. Father, when she laid her little hand on

"Some years afterwards we heard he my arm with a fearfully strong pressure. was married there to a lady of Span- • Mr. Field,' said she, is my papa dead ?' ish extraction, and a Catholic; and, I never shall forget the eyes that lookafter ten years elapsed, she died, leav- ed that question into mine. I felt like ing him one child, a daughter, eight an unveiled spirit before their eager, years of age, and with her he came to piercing stare. I did not answer exPlainfield, desiring that the child, whom cept by a strong quiver of feeling that he had named Adeline, after his own would run over my features, for I loved mother, should have a New England her father even as a kinsman, and I training.

needed to say nothing more, for the * But, wonderful are the way of Pro- child fell at my feet quite rigid, and I vidence! On his return to Cuba, he called Mrs. Frazer, who tried all her perished in the vessel, which went down nurse-arts to restore little Adeline ; but in a heavy gale off Cape Hatteras; and was forced, at last, to send for a physi

VOL. V.-41

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