The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21/05/2002 - 313 páginas In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Página 4
... revolutionary modesty of the three-piece suit, a new aesthetics of masculinity, a new image of the gentleman, came to ... revolution shifted elite mas- culinity from a regime that valued sumptuous display as the privilege of nobility to ...
... revolutionary modesty of the three-piece suit, a new aesthetics of masculinity, a new image of the gentleman, came to ... revolution shifted elite mas- culinity from a regime that valued sumptuous display as the privilege of nobility to ...
Página 5
... revolution can also be called a semiotic revolution, for it was a revo- lution that altered English status symbols, signs of English male gentil- ity, and signs of Englishness itself. The sartorial revolution of the late seventeenth ...
... revolution can also be called a semiotic revolution, for it was a revo- lution that altered English status symbols, signs of English male gentil- ity, and signs of Englishness itself. The sartorial revolution of the late seventeenth ...
Página 8
... revolutions" is "a revolution in sentiments, manners, and moral opinions," then we should investigate the ways in which po- litical regimes were legitimated, undermined, and reorganized by chang- ing ideologies of gender, public display ...
... revolutions" is "a revolution in sentiments, manners, and moral opinions," then we should investigate the ways in which po- litical regimes were legitimated, undermined, and reorganized by chang- ing ideologies of gender, public display ...
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... Revolution clothing had been the backbone of the English economy . Studying cultural attitudes to- ward clothing consumption should help us better understand changing conceptions of the function of consumption in an economy whose cen ...
... Revolution clothing had been the backbone of the English economy . Studying cultural attitudes to- ward clothing consumption should help us better understand changing conceptions of the function of consumption in an economy whose cen ...
Página 19
... Revolution, supporters of this old sartorial regime called upon the crown to regulate the consumption of apparel so that English- men would "content themselves with that sort of clothing which agrees to their sex and condition, not ...
... Revolution, supporters of this old sartorial regime called upon the crown to regulate the consumption of apparel so that English- men would "content themselves with that sort of clothing which agrees to their sex and condition, not ...
Índice
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
Outras edições - Ver tudo
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
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aesthetic Anglican apparel argued aristocratic Berkeley Bernard Mandeville Britain British Burke California Press Cambridge University Press capital century Character Charles Clarendon clothing Cobbett conspicuous consumption consumer Corn Laws corruption court culture courtier critics critique crown defenders defined Discourse display dress Early Modern England Economic Thought economists Edmund Edmund Burke effeminacy effeminate eighteenth elite England English Radicalism Essay Evelyn fashion Feminism France free trade French Revolution frugality gender Gentleman George Glorious Revolution habits History ideology industry James John John Evelyn King language London luxury and effeminacy Mandeville manly manners masculine renunciation masculinist men’s mercantilist merchant middle-class modesty moral nation natural nobility old sartorial regime Parliament political culture Political Economy production Puritans reform Renaissance reprint republican Richard Routledge seventeenth seventeenth-century sexual Smith social Society splendor sumptuary laws taste Theory Thomas three-piece suit tion Tory upstarts vest vestments controversy Victorian virtue wealth Whig William William Cobbett women York