The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21/05/2002 - 313 páginas In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Página 9
... claiming a place in the political arena. "Men are qualified for civil liberty," wrote Edmund Burke, "in exact proportion to their disposition to put moral chains upon their own appetites; . . . in proportion as their soundness and ...
... claiming a place in the political arena. "Men are qualified for civil liberty," wrote Edmund Burke, "in exact proportion to their disposition to put moral chains upon their own appetites; . . . in proportion as their soundness and ...
Página 11
... claiming masculinity as their own, men in power used the label of effeminacy to directly exclude from power all other men—men of other classes, as well as men with alternative sexual practices. The use of the label "effemi- nacy ...
... claiming masculinity as their own, men in power used the label of effeminacy to directly exclude from power all other men—men of other classes, as well as men with alternative sexual practices. The use of the label "effemi- nacy ...
Página 13
... claim that a nation "destitute of religion, honor, or manly pride" is a nation where "commerce and the arts should be lost."44 If we need to broaden our definition of political economy, we also need to broaden our definition of class ...
... claim that a nation "destitute of religion, honor, or manly pride" is a nation where "commerce and the arts should be lost."44 If we need to broaden our definition of political economy, we also need to broaden our definition of class ...
Página 15
... claiming social as well as political authority . Social leadership for men was determined by renouncing the effeminating world of fashion , by not following the crowds , by what James Burgh called " superior ex- ample . . ” 48 And it is ...
... claiming social as well as political authority . Social leadership for men was determined by renouncing the effeminating world of fashion , by not following the crowds , by what James Burgh called " superior ex- ample . . ” 48 And it is ...
Página 19
... claims to a visible moral order: while the display of social hierarchy required aristocrats to outspend upstarts, the court's conspicuous consumption was a key object of criticism by political ad- versaries. Faced with a dual task ...
... claims to a visible moral order: while the display of social hierarchy required aristocrats to outspend upstarts, the court's conspicuous consumption was a key object of criticism by political ad- versaries. Faced with a dual task ...
Índice
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
Outras edições - Ver tudo
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
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