The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21/05/2002 - 313 páginas In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Página 13
... Defenders of aristocracy often defined luxury as the vice of upstarts ambitiously living above their so- cial station, while critics of aristocracy defined luxury as the essential at- tribute of an unproductive land-owning class ...
... Defenders of aristocracy often defined luxury as the vice of upstarts ambitiously living above their so- cial station, while critics of aristocracy defined luxury as the essential at- tribute of an unproductive land-owning class ...
Página 18
... defenders of the social order associated aristocratic masculinity with conspicuous consumption , and appealed to the crown to govern the availability and meaning of consumer goods . In this chapter , we will see the functioning of what ...
... defenders of the social order associated aristocratic masculinity with conspicuous consumption , and appealed to the crown to govern the availability and meaning of consumer goods . In this chapter , we will see the functioning of what ...
Página 19
... defenders of the crown and court con- structed a definition of masculinity that argued for the morality of sump- tuous display yet made it theoretically inaccessible to all but the nobility. This defense of aristocratic men's ...
... defenders of the crown and court con- structed a definition of masculinity that argued for the morality of sump- tuous display yet made it theoretically inaccessible to all but the nobility. This defense of aristocratic men's ...
Página 21
... Defenders of the old sartorial regime thus advocated "conspicuous consumption" in the most literal sense of the phrase: consumption that would make the social order conspicuous. This entailed an ideology that stated that the higher the ...
... Defenders of the old sartorial regime thus advocated "conspicuous consumption" in the most literal sense of the phrase: consumption that would make the social order conspicuous. This entailed an ideology that stated that the higher the ...
Página 24
... defenders of aristo- cratic splendor , conspicuous consumption was not the aberrant behav- ior of nobles " usually unostentatious in their spending , " as Lawrence Stone has asserted , 31 but rather was essential to aristocratic men's ...
... defenders of aristo- cratic splendor , conspicuous consumption was not the aberrant behav- ior of nobles " usually unostentatious in their spending , " as Lawrence Stone has asserted , 31 but rather was essential to aristocratic men's ...
Índice
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
Outras edições - Ver tudo
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta Pré-visualização limitada - 2002 |
Palavras e frases frequentes
aesthetic Anglican apparel argued aristocratic Berkeley Bernard Mandeville Britain British Burke California Press Cambridge University Press capital century Character Charles Clarendon clothing Cobbett conspicuous consumption consumer Corn Laws corruption court culture courtier critics critique crown defenders defined Discourse display dress Early Modern England Economic Thought economists Edmund Edmund Burke effeminacy effeminate eighteenth elite England English Radicalism Essay Evelyn fashion Feminism France free trade French Revolution frugality gender Gentleman George Glorious Revolution habits History ideology industry James John John Evelyn King language London luxury and effeminacy Mandeville manly manners masculine renunciation masculinist men’s mercantilist merchant middle-class modesty moral nation natural nobility old sartorial regime Parliament political culture Political Economy production Puritans reform Renaissance reprint republican Richard Routledge seventeenth seventeenth-century sexual Smith social Society splendor sumptuary laws taste Theory Thomas three-piece suit tion Tory upstarts vest vestments controversy Victorian virtue wealth Whig William William Cobbett women York