colouring and ripe, see former "Calendar." Suckers from those plants that have fruited up to this time will now be ready to pot. Shade them from the sun during the hottest part of the day for ten or fourteen days, by which time they will be making roots. Syringe them lightly in the afternoon at shutting-up time, and when they have made roots about 2 inches long, water them with water at 85°. After this they soon begin to grow freely, and should have an abundant supply of air to keep them stocky.

Grapes.-Early houses, where the wood is thoroughly ripened, may now have the lights removed off them where such are movable, if the wood require painting and other repairs; these, and all alterations in the way of heating, should also be carried out forthwith. Should the weather be dry, late grapes that are swelling off and about the colouring-point copiously water with manure-water, and slightly mulch if it has not been done before. Apply a little fire-heat on damp dull days, and always at night during such weather, with a little air on all night. Take every precaution to keep wasps and flies from preying on ripe grapes. Keep a constant eye to vines in all stages, and see that red-spider does not get a footing. Where the fruit are all cut, an occasional syringing and a free circulation of air night and day will keep the foliage clean. If any of the vines from which fruit has just been cut have their roots further from the surface of the border than is desirable, treat them as has been directed. Pot-vines intended to fruit early next season should by this time have their wood as brown and hard as a cane. Expose them to full sun and a free circulation of air. Should they show any disposition to make young lateral growths, remove them at once, inducing them to maturity and rest as soon as possible. Avoid exposing them outdoors in windy positions, which destroys the foliage before it has fully done its work. Peaches.-Look carefully over all trees from which fruit has been gathered, and if there are many shoots that will

not be required for next season's bearing, remove them at once, so that all light and air may play about the trees freely. If there be any red-spider about them, syringe them with sulphured water till not one remains; and otherwise give every possible attention that is necessary to retain the foliage to the last in a healthy state, so that well-developed buds and matured wood may be the result. Expose fruit that are ripening to all light and air possible. in their last swelling should be well supplied with water at the root till they begin to colour.

Late crops in cool houses

Figs. Early trees from which the second crop is all gathered must not be neglected. If in pots, keep them well supplied with water, and free from insects by frequent syringing. Should they have more wood about them than is necessary for next season, remove it, and expose them to full light and air. Where fruit are ripening, the atmosphere must be comparatively dry, with a free circulation of air, or the fruit will be deficient in flavour. Supply trees swelling off their crop with manure-water at the root-a moist atmosphere and frequent syringing are necessary to keep the foliage healthy.

Melons. Attend to the impregnation of late crops, and avoid overcrowding with shoots and foliage. Give those swelling off full crops occasional heavy waterings with manure-water. If grown in houses on trellises, cover the surface of the bed with a coating of rotten manure 1 inch or so in thickness. Expose ripening fruit fully to the sun, and to a circulation of warm air.

Cucumbers.-Those that have been in bearing all summer may now be partially cut in, all fruit removed, be top-dressed with rotten manure, and kept at 75° at night, and they will soon make young wood and begin bearing, and give a supply till late in autumn. See that those in full bearing do not want for water at the roots, and syringe them freely on fine afternoons. About the middle of the month is a good time to sow for winter-bearing plants, or they may be produced

from cuttings at the end of the month. It is desirable to get them well established while the days are yet long, and less fire-heat required.

Strawberries in Pots.-These, if shifted into their fruitingpots last month, will now be growing rapidly, and filling their pots with roots. Give them a liberal supply of water, and occasional watering with dung-water as they get well established in their pots. See that they are not standing too closely together, preventing a free circulation of air and light about them. They should be placed in an open airy situation. If any portion of the required stock still remain unshifted, not a day should be lost in getting them into their fruiting-pots. The great point is to obtain well-ripened crowns, and pots as full of roots as they can hold. If they are disposed to root through the pots, lift them occasionally to prevent this. It is best, for this reason, to have them standing on boards or trellis-work, to prevent the roots leaving the pots.

SEPTEMBER.

Pines.-Smooth Cayennes, and other varieties that are most suitable for autumn and winter supply, will now be swelling rapidly, and should have every encouragement and attention. A top-dressing of horse-droppings will assist in stimulating them, and in keeping them uniformly moist at the root. Water them with weak guano - water every time they require watering, and keep the atmosphere moist. Shut up early in the afternoon, with sun-heat to a temperature of 90° for a time, allowing it to fall to 75° by 10 o'clock P.M. Syringe them overhead at shutting-up time, when the weather is bright, but avoid the crowns as much as possible with the syringe. Give late Queens that are colouring a free circulation of warm dry air about them, and keep them dry at the root. Should more ripen at one time than are re

quired, remove the plants to a cool dry room, where they will keep in good condition for two or three weeks, and so keep up a succession of fruit. Now is a good time to put in a second lot of suckers, from plants which have ripened and are ripening their fruit. Plunge them in a bottom-heat of 85°, and keep the air at about 70°. If the soil is moist when they are potted, water will not be necessary till they have formed roots an inch long. Dew them lightly overhead every fine day when shut up, and give air more liberally after they have rooted and commenced to grow, and avoid crowding them in the bed. The stock of plants that are intended to start into fruit at the commencement of the year will now require careful management. No more water should be given than is sufficient to keep them from suffering either from aridity of atmosphere or over-dryness of soil. Give a liberal supply of air on fine days. By the end of the month they should be in as complete a state of rest as is possible. 65° will be a night temperature sufficiently high to begin October with, and it should be gradually lowered to this as the nights lengthen and become more cold. Those plants that are intended to start next spring, as a succession to those just referred to, and that are not now so forward, require to be encouraged to grow more freely for another month at least, and consequently require to be kept more moist, and be shut up with more heat on the afternoons of fine clear days. Avoid as much as possible a forcing-heat on dull days and at night, and take advantage of sun-heat when it can be had. All syringing of growing stock overhead should now cease.

Grapes.-Late grapes intended to hang through the winter should be quite ripe by the end of the month. In keeping grapes successfully, it is of great importance that the foliage be healthy as long as possible. And if there be any redspider about the vines in patches, as is not unfrequent, get rid of it at once. In wet localities, where heavy autumn

rains prevail, cover the outside border with shutters or tarpauling so as to throw off the superabundant wet. And as

it is now desirable to keep the inside of the vineries drier, let the surface of the border be gently forked up, and a sprinkling of old mushroom-bed manure be scattered over it to the depth of an inch, first sifting it rather finely. Look over ripe crops, and cut out all berries that show any signs of decay. Keep the vines free from lateral growths, and the main foliage healthy to the last. The early part of this month is a good time to remove the inert surface-soil from borders down to the roots, replacing it with fresh turfy loam mixed with horse-droppings, and a little old lime-rubbish or charcoal. Vines from which fruit was cut in April and May will be ready to prune by the end of the month; and if intended for early forcing again, it should be no longer delayed. After pruning keep them as cool as possible. All repairs or painting requisite should be done before the weather becomes unfavourable for such work. Young vigorous-growing vines that were planted last and this year, fire and keep warm till the wood is perfectly brown and matured. Remove all young growths as they appear, and if they have been allowed to make anything of a rambling lateral growth, remove as much of it as will admit a free play of light and air about all the foliage and wood. See last month's directions regarding pot-vines.

Peaches. Give trees that are strong, and have their wood not so solid and ripe as is desirable, fire-heat and a circulation of air in order to ripen them. If any vestige of redspider remains or appears about them, give them a few vigorous washings on fine afternoons with the engine. Late crops in cool houses will now be ripening, and will require to be carefully guarded from flies and wasps. Push aside all leaves that in any way interfere with a full exposure of every part to sun and air.

Figs. Encourage trees that are swelling off a crop with