Of the city itself he says little, doubtless deferring his account of it till the publication of his larger work.

At the latter end of October, he left the Piræus for Ægina, and soon afterwards landed in the Morea, and proceeded to Mistra, near Sparta, where he has purchased an estate, and where he hopes at some future time to figure as a Spartan citizen, and to render the people in the neighbourhood as attached to him as he assures us the German peasantry are, who have the happiness to live near his paternal estate. On leaving Mistra, he was accompanied by a great train of people, among whom figured his host, Dimitrios Saltaferos, the "Iatricus," and the "Tetrarchus," the latter at the head of a phalanx of police, for a celebrated robber-chief was just then favouring that part of the country with his presence, and the "Tetrarchus," as catching him seems to have been out of the question, was the most proper person, it appears, to compound with him, had he, unmindful of the reputation of his country, dared to assault its illustrious visiter. The journey of the latter to Priniko, however, was not diversified by any such romantic incident as a skirmish with brigands.

At Priniko, a "dimarchus" was not to be found, (how came he to be absent at such a critical juncture?) but three brothers, who live in delightful harmony in an excellent house, offered me, with the readiest hospitality, the best room, which they soon cleaned; in short, they did every thing in their power to lodge me comfortably. Only one of the brothers was married, and his wife, who three days before had lost her eldest child, was not visible, but her sister, an active and sprightly person, who was here on a visit from Marathonisi, did her best to supply the place of the lady of the house. When at Athens, I had received from Paris a few hundred dollars' worth of jewelry, and I was so satisfied with the friendly way in which this family received me, that I presented to the fair Morathonisian a pair of golden earrings. If we ourselves wish to reap pleasure from the presents we make, they must be given unexpectedly to persons who are not blasés. The delight which these trifles produced was a real enjoyment for me, and no false shame prompted the good people to hide their feelings. Afterwards, as I lay stretched on the carpet, drinking my coffee, and smoking its invariable concomitant, my pipe, the three brothers and the sister crouched down round me, and began a very lively discussion respecting me. I had learned by degrees so much Greek, that I could understand at any rate a part of what they said. They first wished that I would buy their village, where every thing, they boasted, grew most luxuriantly (and it cannot be denied that the farming in the fruitful plain is very good, and the wine excellent;) then they wondered how it was that I came from such a distance. My secretary had told them that I was a subject of the King of Prussia. No knowledge of this country had yet reached them, and they tried to make out from one another in what quarter of the world it was situated. At last, one imagined that it might perhaps belong to Russia, and he was not so very far wrong.

When the conversation terminated, the Prince called for a table, and one of the brothers held it, and looked on with an air of great wonderment and curiosity, whilst our author took down the above debate.

Shortly after leaving Priniko, the Prince commences his voyage through the Archipelago-his course is most capriciously

irregular he touches at one island, passes another, and sails round a third; now he honours some governor with his presence at dinner, and now he makes an excursion to an obscure village, where he witnesses the native character of the isles in its most unadulterated state; he ponders in this page over a classic inscription, or visits in dreamy mood scenes hallowed by Greek mythology, and in the next dwells in detail on his domestic accommodations and personal adventures, or makes to the reader some most confidentially familiar communications respecting his own intimate constitutional peculiarities. Every part of the work recommends itself, from the ease, grace, and liveliness of its style, and from the variety and vivacity of its descriptions; but now that he is fairly launched, we can follow the uncertain course of our wanderer no longer, and must henceforth content ourselves with culling a few paragraphs, calculated to give the reader a correct idea of the man and of his book.

As eminently characteristic of the man, we cannot do better than translate his account of how he spent the 30th of October, his birth-day. He was then at Monemvasia, where he had been received a few days before with all military honours by the commander of the fortress, the governor, and the minor officials, at whose head he made his entry into the town.

Two years ago [he says] I spent my birth-day in a miserable public-house in the Pyrenees, last year in the lazaretto at Malta, this year in the dilapidated Monemvasia; where shall I pass it next?-Heaven only knows. In the mean time, it was not unimportant for me to observe that, on this 30th of October, at seven o'clock in the morning, the sun shone cheerfully upon my bed, and that, when I went to the window, the sea, whose angry waves had the evening before threatened to burst into the room, was as calm and motionless as a mirror. [He has previously informed the reader that he is noted for superstition and for his belief in omens.] It appeared to me as another favourable sign that my birthday fell this time on a Sunday, on which day at midnight, longer ago than is agreeable to me, I first, dark as it was, saw the light of the world. Here too at Monemvasia, the occasion was greeted by a certain ceremony, as it uniformly is in some of the towns of my own country, which are attached to me; for not only did the whole corps of officers in full uniform, with all the authorities of the place, wait on me, as on my arrival, but the entire population, in their Sunday attire, lined the streets to witness my departure. I rode through a gay throng of people, who saluted me as I passed; the sentinels presented arms to the sound of a cracked drum, and I regarded all this attention, not merely with due gratitude on account of the occasion, and with an innocent smile, but also with joy, inasmuch as I read in it an ominous significance of my own finding. The weather was mild, neither too warm nor too cold, but the wind was in my face. Well, that I am accustomed to. Almost all my life I have had to steer my bark, with danger and difficulty, against contrary winds. I am not one of those fortunate people with whom every thing that they please to undertake succeeds of itself. And why should I be?-as it is, I always fare better than I can boast of deserving, and at a pinch I am always ready to console myself with the wise exclamation of the Persians, "Whose dog am I then, that I should be happy!"

After I had passed the ancient walls of Epidaurus Limera, a slight shower fell, but at the same moment some rocks near me were coloured by the hues of a rainbow, which sported on a soft bed of cloud. These signs I interpreted

as follows: "All sorts of trifling annoyances wilt thou have to encounter, and the year before thee is various-coloured and full of incident!" This is all I wish for. The sunshine was afterwards interrupted by similar showers; sometimes dark clouds, heralded by noisy winds, menaced worse changes, but dispersed again without discharging themselves, or disappeared altogether among the mountains on each side. In short, on the whole, it was a northeru, warm April day, resembling my own fortunes, and perhaps a little too my nature. Half-way, in the middle of the plain of Phiniki, the wind suddenly turned, blew almost in our backs, and remained in this quarter the rest of the day. This favourable sign was followed by another still more remarkable. The plain of Phiuiki is in some parts marshy, and here and there under water. Near one of its pools I met a Greek traveller, and, just as our horses' heads almost touched each other, his fell with him into a deep hole between us, and he lay stunned for some time before we could help him out. Had he not fallen into this hole, I most assuredly should have paid it a visit; and so, though I pitied his misfortune, I still could not but congratulate myself on having escaped by means of this warning from a mud bath, or perhaps from a

contusion.

Very amusing is the modern version of the prophecy which Homer represents Tiresias as addressing to Ulysses. A similar story is now gravely told of St. Elias. When the Prince sailed by Syphanto, he saw at its summit a figure of this saint, and asked the steersman how it came to pass that, on the Greek continent, and in all the islands of the Archipelago, this personage was never found except at the tops of mountains. The answer was, that this saint was in his young days a sailor, and that as such he had spent a very dissipated life, of which he afterwards repented, and became in consequence quite averse to the

sea.

He finally quitted his ship, took his rudder on his shoulder, walked up a hill, and asked all the people he met whether they were acquainted with what he was carrying. As long as they answered that it was a rudder, he kept on his journey, until at last, at the highest part of the country, he met with people who said that it was only a piece of wood. Hence he perceived that they were unacquainted with ships, and among them accordingly he pitched his tent.

The most populous city of the kingdom of Greece is at present "the capital of the island of Syra, which, during the revolution, was the principal seat of commerce. It contains 20,000 inhabitants and 4000 houses, forming two towns, the old and new; the latter surrounds the former which is built on a hill; the aspect of the whole is remarkably picturesque and beautiful. Although an open wooden booth for rope-dancers is the only theatre which Athens now possesses, our author found here a regular playhouse, with a pit and two tier of boxes, lighted by a chandelier of coloured glass. Its construction, however, is very convenient. It has only one scene, on one side of which a wood is painted, and on the other a room, and which is turned round as occasion requires. The Prince was present at the representation of a tragedy called Brutus. The hero, he says, was

enveloped in a powdered mantle, and from his enormous woollen wig exactly resembled a he-goat. Another principal character, in a rose-coloured domino and a silver paper helmet, was much more like a Parisian barber than a Roman chief. The daughter of King Tarquin was played by a boy with lively black eyes, who wore false gold lace in his hair, a brown silk dress with "gigots," and a broad French girdle at the waist, common ladies' shoes, and knitted gloves, which were not very white. All female characters in Greece are played by boys, and the public interests itself as strongly for these as in the West of Europe for a favourite actress. The audience was very well dressed and well behaved, and in the boxes were some pretty women, whose toilet displayed considerable taste. The Greek costume is seldom met with in the islands, where both males and females adopt the dress of the rest of Europe.

The luxury of the Turks in Candia was quite congenial to the character and habits of our author. The following is his account of an entertainment given him by the governor of that island.

We dined off English plate, by the light of twelve wax candles, fixed in elegant stands. The cook, a Turk, and something also of a Frenchman, belonged to the artists of his profession, and we were frequently compelled to give the preference to his productions, particularly to his sweet "entremets" of the second course, and to his pastry, which was of etherial lightness, over those of our own country. France furnished us with her finest and most genuine wines; Mocha, with coffee; and Latakia, with the most excellent tobacco for after-dinner smoking. In the article of pipes, the luxury of my hosts most astonished me. They are here continually changed; when one has been smoked out, it is not filled again with European parsimony, but the pipe-waiter, whose sole duty it is to supply the company with fresh ones, presents another very respectfully, with his hand on his breast, and so on until the smokers are tired. My pipes were not only of the most recherchée elegance, with enormous amber points of a single piece, but were all richly set with diamonds, gold, and enamel. The head rested on the floor, in a carved silver basin with a low rim, to save the carpet. It must be confessed that a civilized Turk, with a revenue of 100,000 kolonnati, knows almost as well how to enjoy life as an English nobleman. He who is acquainted with the systems of both, and has money enough to practise them, might, however, advance further than either in the art of living.

The civilized Turk here alluded to is Mustapha Pacha, who has an income of 100,000 kolonnati from Mehemed Ali. He is described as a very gentlemanly (gentlemanartig) man, and of very liberal notions. He has given permission to the ladies of his harem to leave it if they were so inclined: but very few have availed themselves of his liberality. He has improved considerably since he was appointed governor; for, on his first arrival in Candia, he was a mere ignorant Turk, who believed that the Sultan had the disposal of all the crowns of Europe, and who, on the occurrence of an eclipse, would give orders to fire at the

dragon which threatened to swallow up the sun-a general custom, which he himself, when better informed, abolished.

Candia rejoices in the absence of lawyers. Those who have recourse to law plead their own causes before the council of the island, which is composed of eighteen members and a president, one of the members being the secretary. The council debates on each cause, and during the debate the parties concerned may speak, whenever they think that injustice is done to the merits of their case by the orators of the council, or whenever information is required, or there are errors to be rectified. The question is decided by a majority of voices. The president has only one voice, and the pacha, when he is present, has no more. A subsequent appeal to the governor is allowed, who however can only send the case to be again tried by the council, and, should the latter persist in its decision, he is compelled to confirm it.

Candia, under the Turks, is much happier according to our author than Greece under the Bavarians. In Candia, he says, the traveller laden with gold may sleep in safety in the open air; whilst in Greece robberies are very frequent, murder is not uncommon, and all the prisons are filled to the roofs with criminals condemned for capital offences, whom, however, the government dare not execute. In Candia, from 1832 to 1836, only one capital crime was committed, and the culprit in this case was a foreign servant who murdered his master.

In Greece, it appears, complaints are general of the indolence of the government, and, when it does act, of its capricious meddling spirit. Officials are changed much too frequently, and never appear to be certain of passing a year in the same place. The king is by most regarded as their countryman, and is personally beloved; the people are attached to monarchy; but they require, and very justly, that all ministers and officials should be Greeks, and have a great antipathy to foreigners.

This work contains no data from which the state of trade in Greece can be learned, but, from all that is said in it respecting the country people, it is evident that agriculture is at a very low ebb. The houses of the peasantry throughout the whole kingdom are constructed on much the same plan. The walls are sometimes of brick and sometimes of mud; the roof is flat and composed of stones loosely laid together on balks, which are generally extremely low. There is usually above the ground-floor only one room, up to which lead a few wooden steps; this is the state-apartment, where even in the poorest houses some sort of carpet, or at any rate a straw mat or two, are met with. The rest of the house forms one long, irregular room, of which the naked earth is the ground-floor, and in which the whole family resides, together with the pigs and poultry in cold weather all the various inhabitants of the mansion spend the greatest part of their time round a large fire. The only windows are rude un