the Genoese sea and territory, and upon its inhabitants: -"Monti senza legno, mare senza pesce, gente senza fede, e donne senza vergogna;"" land without trees, sea without fish, men without faith, and women without virtue*."

The nature of the country round Genoa brought to my mind the following remark of Addison: "If a man considers the face of Italy in general, one would think that Nature had laid it out in such a variety of states and governments as one finds in it. For as the Alps, at one end, and the long range of Apennines, that passes through the body of it, branch out on all sides into several different divisions; they serve as so many natural boundaries and fortifications to the little territories that lie among them." It may, indeed, be affirmed with great truth, that

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Nature's self detains the victor's car,
And makes their land impregnable, if earth
Could be so.

Accordingly," continues Addison, "we find the whole country cut into a multitude of particular kingdoms and

• "Travellers," says Forsyth, "have often applied the 'Vane Ligus,' &c. to the Genoese character; but the Patrias tentâsti lubricus artes' appears to me to be levelled rather at an individual, the fallaci Auno,' than against the nation at large."

"Surrounded by the Alps and the sea, the natural limits of Italy are determined with the same precision as those of an island.

commonwealths in the oldest accounts we have of it, until the power of the Romans, like a torrent that overflows its banks, bore down all before it, and spread itself into the remotest corners of the nation. But as this exorbitant power became unable to support itself, we find the government of Italy again broken into such a variety of subdivisions, as naturally suits with its situation."

By these vast mountains, arranged in a huge crescent, one extremity of which reaches to the Adriatic Gulf, and the other to the sea of Genoa, it is separated from the continent; while, throughout the greater part of its extent, it is bathed by the sea. It thus divides itself into two great parts-the continental portion, and the Peninsula-the common boundary of which is the isthmus of Parma. For if from Parma, as a centre, a semicircle be traced to the north, with a radius of about sixty leagues, it will sweep along the higher chain of the Alps, and describe the territory of what is called the continental part, formerly Cisalpine Gaul. The Peninsula, again, is a trapezium, comprehended between the continental part on the north, the Mediterranean on the west, the Adriatic on the east, and the Ionian sea on the south. The Apennines are mountains of the second order, and, commencing where the Alps terminate, run through the Peninsula in a longitudinal direction, increasing in elevation by a progress inverse to that of the Alps; and, extending to its southern extremity, divide the waters which discharge themselves into the Adriatic from those which flow into the Mediterranean."-Edin. Review, No. 80.

31

PISA.

quasi fatale alle umane cose non durar lungamente in un medesimo stato; e dopo la maggior elevazione dover fra non molto aspettarsi la decadenza.-LANZI.

I LEFT Genoa for Pisa in a felucca, and arrived at Leghorn about the middle of the following day. This thriving town is said to contain upwards of sixty thousand inhabitants. Of these, a sixth part, and those the wealthiest, are Jews. The streets, which are clean and paved with large flag stones, are crowded with people of all nations, exhibiting a singular diversity of costume; for here may be seen, mingled in gay confusion, the Turk, the Armenian, and the Greek; the inhabitants of the Mediterranean isles, and those of the Barbary coast.

Leghorn has the advantage of a secure harbour*, and

The pier commands a magnificent view-the Monte Nero, which no Italian vessel sails by without saluting Our Lady of that name— the whole extent of coast from the Gulf of Genoa to the Point of Piombino-the little island of Gorgona, famed for its anchoviesthe light-house built by our Queen Anne, on a dangerous shoal not far from it--and the isles of Elba and Corsica, the places of Buonaparte's birth and exile.

a lazaretto, said to be the best in Europe. The quay is decorated with a statue of Ferdinand of Medicis, with four bronze figures kneeling round the pedestal, some say to personify the four quarters of the globe; others, to represent certain Turkish slaves who had attempted to steal a Tuscan galley, and were executed by order of that prince. With the exception of these statues, and the repositories of sculptured alabaster in the Via Grande, Leghorn has little to boast of in the way of art.

The Protestant burying-ground, or Campo Inglese, as it is sometimes called, from the number of our countrymen interred there, is a plot of ground without the walls, protected by an iron railing, and surrounded by cypresses after the oriental manner. It is chiefly interesting as the

burial-place of Smollet.

From Leghorn to Pisa, our road lay across an extensive plain, bounded on the south-east by the chain of the Monte Nero, the favourite retreat of the wealthier Leghorn merchants during the heats of summer.

The situation of Pisa is eminently beautiful. To the north it has the Apennines, to the south a fertile and extensive plain; while the Arno, here a navigable stream, flows through the heart of the town, dividing it into two nearly equal parts. The quays on each side of the river are lined with stately edifices, and connected by three bridges, the middle one of which is built of marble. In its passage through the town the river describes a slight curve, and this is thought to add so much to the beauty of the effect, that the Lung' Arno of Pisa (the common

appellation of the quays) is usually preferred before that of Florence.

PISA, while the capital of a republic, could boast a hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants; but no sooner did it fall under the hated domination of Florence, than its population gradually dwindled away, and it now musters scarcely more than a tenth part of that number. Its former splendour, however, is still discernible in the deserted mansions that line its depopulated streets, as well as in the towers-once the distinctive mark and the defence of its nobles-which may still be traced in the walls of modernized houses. But the noblest monument of its magnificence is confined to one sacred corner, near the outskirts of the town: there stand clustered together all the wonders of Pisa-the Cathedral-the Baptistery -the Leaning Tower-and the Campo Santo; "all built of the same marble, all varieties of the same architecture, all venerable with years, and fortunate both in their society and their solitude*."

The Cathedral, a work of the eleventh century, was built by a Greek. It stands on a platform, to which you ascend by a flight of five marble steps. The sides are divided into three stories, the front into five: the general decoration of the exterior consists of round arches resting on single columns or pilasters; and the whole is surmounted by a cupola. But notwithstanding the cupola, and the absence of pointed arches, clustered pillars, and