stances of insolent ingratitude occasionally, though rarely, occurred, and mentioned the conduct of a party of vagabonds who had turned up their noses at his copper donation, when he took it back from them, and quietly gave them to understand that they would beg again in his parish at their peril. At Ailly we heard that the destitution, the consequence of the disturbed state of affairs in the land, was beginning to reach the rural districts, and a large proportion of the parish families was mentioned as being then · in receipt of charity.

At last came coffee and a chasse, and then abundant shaking of hands, and protestations, if not of eternal friendship, of at any rate very sincere thanks on our part for hospitality given, closed the visit, and we were once more on the road, now a cross-road, trotting towards Longpré.

These curés are capital fellows. He of Ailly sucked at a cigar I gave him with infinite diligence and gusto, lighting it, as I have reason to believe, at the wrong end.

A fine pictureque country, particularly the valley of the Somme, which we presently entered. Near Longpré we observed an extensive space of flat ground occupied by water-pits and pools. There was an artificial appearance about them that suggested inquiry what they were for, and we learned that they were thus kept for the sake of the crop of turf fuel which from time to time is cut from the bottom of the water, and which continually renews itself. We were assured that this subaqueous crop is a source of considerable income to the proprietors.

The train took us from Longpré to Amiens, where,--passing the château of Picquiguy on a hill to the right, a remarkable ruin,-we arrived at 3.10. P.M. in a large and handsome station. Here we took up our enemy the great trunk, which we had forwarded direct from Abbeville, and with all expedition hurried off by omnibus to our hotel, and thence on foot to the cathedral.

Not to enter upon a minute architectural description,-which may be had cheap and good elsewhere,-all one can say of Amiens cathedral is, that it is magnificent,-imposing,-satisfactory. Of course it is; a grand Gothic ecclesiastical edifice must be. Its west front pleases one with a perfection of mighty richness, so fascinating, that one could stand leaning against the opposite houses, and looking up at it, for hours; and it was with the feeling that a great show was over, that I saw it shut out from view as we walked away. The stalls are exquisite,-chefs d'œuvre of Sixteenth Century wood carving, exhibiting a luxuriance of richness and finish that may be called bewildering to one's appreciations. A small detached chapel, standing within the cathedral precincts, near the south-east part of the choir, is a beautiful model. I thought how admirably suitable it was for reproduction in England, for it would be cheaply built.

Amiens has a metropolitan air,-great extent,―good shops,-handsome houses,-bustling crowds. We surveyed as much of it as we could before dinner. The accustomed cafe visit and fireside soirée in our bedroom closed the day.

THE MODEL TOWN.

THE Neapolitans have a proverb, "See Naples and die;" the Spaniards, "Who has not seen Seville has not seen the marvel." Both these beautiful cities are, in a great degree, indebted to their situation for their attractions. Their indwellers, when the aforesaid proverbs were put forth, little dreamt that in the nineteenth century a town was to arise, on the then unknown banks of the Mersey, which was not only to rival them and eclipse their fame, but was to be a model for all future time; a town, the magnificence of whose Square, and the prolongation of whose streets, was to throw their Prados and Corsos into such comparative insignificance, that future travellers shall say, "Ah, these were thought fine, until the people of Birkenhead showed us what could be done."-Yes, while Birkenhead yet remained a village, the town on the opposite side of the river had, by the indomitable and well-directed energies of its inhabitants, risen, in less than a century, from a secondrate town to one of first-rate importance in the commercial world; its public institutions; its magnificent charities; its noble public buildings; and, above all, its docks and quays, not only objects of pride to its inhabitants, but of admiration to all who visit Liverpool. Strangers, the illustrious for rank and for science, have paid it the tribute of their applause. The foreigner feels his tour in England is not complete if he has not seen Liverpool; and on his return to his own land bids his fellow-citizens, or it may be his subjects, to emulate the men of Liverpool.

To this town-to Liverpool-did Birkenhead, with a spirit worthy of this age of progression, throw down the gauntlet, and say, "From this time forth your course shall be retrograde; in me behold a rival soon to overshadow your importance; ere long, Liverpool shall be known but as a suburb of Birkenhead-the satellite of a greater luminary. See, I have a Square, to which (when finished) you can find no equal. I have a Park which you cannot parallel. I have streets, the length of which I name by the mile; and my docks-in comparison, yours are mere horseponds!"

I had heard all this, and more. The fame thereof had reached New York and Boston, and had been re-echoed in "the far West." Fifteen years since, when I made my first transatlantic voyage, I had visited Liverpool; and, when in prospect of a revisit, my thoughts dwelt on the changes I should find, and especially on the wonders I was to see at Birkenhead. As I came to Europe, viâ Havre, I took an opportunity to stay a short time at Birmingham and Manchester, on my way down. I found both these places increased in size, and improvements in each made, and in progress. "Ah," thought I, "they have been taking a

+

a leaf out of the book of the wise men of Birkenhead."

On arrival at Liverpool I was glad to find its docks were still full of shipping, and that the town was improved and improving, enlarged and enlarging; and (what was indeed a wonder to me) new docks made and others projected. Was this a remnant of its former energy, or was it

VOL. XVII.

2 D

mere senility for communities, like individuals, have youth and old age -the useless and ill-directed efforts that so often precede decay? A few calls, and an engagement to dinner, occupied the greater part of my first day in Liverpool; my good friend had engaged some gentlemen from 'Change to meet me, and it is one of the great charms attending the hospitalities of Liverpool, that a party can be thus improvised, the members of which, either personally or through their correspondents, possess the best information respecting the commercial and political relations of the whole world. I had heard while on 'Change of Calcutta, Canton, Lima, St. Petersburg, &c. &c., but not one word of “ our great rival." Was it an unpleasant subject?

After dinner I named my intention of going over to Birkenhead, of which I had heard so much. I detected a mischievous expression in the twinkle of my host's eye and the curl of his lip. One of the party asked me if I had any intention to open a house there, and advised me to be cautious; another asked me how long I had given myself to see Paris? and, on learning I had spent a fortnight, replied, "Well, you may perhaps manage Birkenhead in the same period." In alluding to the length of its streets, my host asked if I intended to take a guide with me, observing that some of the streets were not easy to find, and that perhaps I might lose my way. On learning that I intended to take a map, there was a simultaneous expression that I should find the streets laid down in the map-and I detected one sotto voce remark—“but no where else.” My projected visit to Birkenhead seemed to afford them so much diversion, that I said

"Ah, you Liverpool men are jealous!"

"Jealous!" said one. "Why, are they not going to take away all

our trade?"

"Bah!" said another. "I mean to take care of myself. When that does happen, I have a grand scheme for our docks. I never despairnever. We can get up a joint-stock fish company, and turn our docks into reservoirs for country supply. Large stocks kept alive to order.' Prince's Dock for salmon, George's for cod."

"I hope," said one, “ fish !"

'you will set apart one dock at least for 'flat

Here the jollity became uproarious. I saw, at least, that while champagne was stirring, the men of Liverpool were not going to break their hearts on account of their great rival. I determined to see, and judge for myself.

Next day I crossed the Mersey in a Birkenhead steamer. To my surprise I found the hotel closed. "Ah," thought I, "is this building marked to come down?-Do the docks reach so far as here?" Finding there was a good hotel at Monk's Ferry, I went there, and, after depositing my luggage, walked out to see the docks I had heard so much of. After some search in the direction pointed out to me, I found an oblong, irregular-shaped dock, in which about a dozen vessels were lying, a few of which were loading or discharging; there were also a couple of steamers. I then crossed the tidal-gate to an angular-shaped pier, on which was heaped a pile of stores; from this I could see, the tide being down, that ranges of walls were formed, and piles laid down in the space before me, but no such thing as a dock-a complete, available dock

could I see in any direction. Recrossing the gates I went northwards, passing over the line of railway to where I saw a range of warehouses. These form a very respectable, well-annexed pile of building, enclosed by a high wall; the entrance gate was open, and a few porters were standing idle near it. I was told the warehouses contained very little merchandise, and that there was nothing doing. I went on further as they directed me, to see what they very properly styled intended docks, and a nearer view satisfied me they were even in a more unfinished state than as seen from a greater distance-so unfinished, even in outline, that without the aid of a map it would be impossible to have an idea of what was intended.

My search ended, I found that the docks, about the opening of which there had been such a mighty fuss, consisted of one small narrow dock, the commercial activity on whose quay occasionally gave employment to -half-a-dozen porters!

Next day for the tour.

I started early, passing first down Bridge-street, which I had known of old. I found little progress here-spaces left unbuilt; and as I went further down, the more dull and deserted it seemed. I crossed the railway; it was still worse. At the intersection of this street with Cleveland-street, there was a fine range of shops, but they were nearly all unoccupied. Cleveland-street! why, this is one of the mighty streets which they are so proud of, leading from the Square to-"the Lord knows where."

I passed from the lower end of this street to the street called St. Ann's, where I found a row of houses unfinished and going to ruin; a large chapel fronting Price-street, in the same condition; and rows of houses, in some street, leading from it, all unfinished and going to ruin. Some had never been roofed in, three stood near an unfinished church, and further in the country, towards Bidston-hill, there is another church in the same condition. The building of these two churches, and of a third, caused the ruin of a most respectable building-firm here. They were never paid for even their outlay, and in fact received only a small part of the cost of one of these churches. I hope the projectors will not place this to the account of their "good works." I think a jury of Saints would, as a most favourable verdict, allow good intentions. Church and chapel, however, cannot quarrel here, for they stand dos-àdos in most deplorable condition. Indeed, the aspect of this part of the town is ruin.

Returning up Price-street, which is another of "the grand streets," I found shops and houses unoccupied, with some unfinished and going to ruin. At the upper end there are indeed about thirty respectable houses occupied and in good condition, which looks quite remarkable here. On passing along I perceived a most villanous odour, something like gas-but much worse; and on asking my companion what abomination there was in that street to cause it, was informed it did not arise from anything in that street or near, but from a place called Tranmere Pool, nearly a mile off; and that the nearer I approached the nuisance, the more offensive I should find it, and that it pervaded at times the whole town, varying in intensity of stench according to the direction of the wind. On going to my friend's house, he gave me a report to read as to the sanitary condi

tion of Birkenhead: from it I annex an extract,* and can only add, that from my own experience the effect produced by this "monster nuisance" is not overdrawn. It must add greatly to the pleasure of a prolonged residence in this most delightful of all modern towns.

I next made a survey of the centre of the town, i. e., in the immediate neighbourhood of its Square, and its Market-both held up as wonders. The Square is indeed handsome and well built; and when the vacant space left for a town-hall is filled up by that or some other building, the whole will form a more perfect Square, or Place, than is usually found in England. The Market, also, is a fine, commodious, and well-arranged structure, being much above the present business of the place, and a ruinous affair to those who, as mortgagees or otherwise, have money therein or thereon.

Near the Market are some fine ranges of shops, but very few of them are, or have ever been occupied; indeed, scarcely one-third of the shops in the town are in occupation. People are so infatuated in favour of Liverpool, that so far from Liverpool people coming over here to make their purchases, as they ought to do, the people of Birkenhead and the country now go over to Liverpool. Very extraordinary, this position of the model town-but, alas! the perversity of human nature! perfection was never popular, and therefore model towns, like pattern people, petted children, and all superexcellences, are disappointed in their expectations. I was much disappointed in mine; so far, at least, as Birkenhead was concerned, and as only two days of my intended week were expended, I began to consider how the remaining five days were to be got over. Fortunately, I had invitations from friends who lived in the neighbourhood. At their tables I learnt that the wine and other good things came over from Liverpool; and indeed, at one house, the butcher's meat, and even the vegetables, had crossed the Mersey, it being for the advantage of a family to purchase in St. John's Market, Liverpool, instead of on this side, where higher prices were charged, and most things of inferior quality.

Next day, on my way to Oxton, I saw the quarter of the town furthest from the river. It is generally inferior, as to style of buildings, to the neighbourhood of the Square, and is especially marked for its dirty streets. A tract of land, called Clifton Park, adjoins this, and contains many good houses, in the villa style; but it is not Birkenhead, but part of Tranmere; and some parts of it suffer greatly from the "monster nuisance"-Tranmere Pool, which, indeed, is especially theirs. The higher part of it, however, being dry, and free from the miasmatic atmosphere which generally hangs over the swampy ground of Birkenhead, would be a pleasant residence.

* One monster nuisance, Tranmere Pool, I regret to say, is not at all likely to be abated, the opinion of the authorities being that it is of too great a magnitude to come under the Nuisance Removal Act; this said nuisance (in extent upwards of a quarter of a mile in length), nearly the whole of which is one continued mass of abomination, consisting of all sorts of decomposed animal and vegetable matter, and sending forth an effluvia of so offensive and deleterious a nature as often to make the houses in the neighbourhood, particularly in Clifton Park, almost uninhabitable. Unless the Nuisance or some other Act can strike at this fearful seat of pestilence, Birkenhead can never be considered as being in a proper sanitary state. Extract from Report of Dr. Hunter Robertson on the Sanitary State of Birkenhead. 1848.