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stands Tremilly, the old moated seat of the Tremouilles, flanked by two pyramidal towers, &c., now belonging to the Broglie family.]

JUZENNECOURT (8 kil).

[About 18 kil. south is Château Villain, on the Anjou, which belonged to the Orleans family, and was one of the finest seats in Champagne, before the revolution.-Arc-enBarois (12 kil. south-south-east) higher up the Anjou, was a fortified town in Burgundy, and latterly the property of Madame Adelaide d'Orleans.]

At 17 kil. further is

CHAUMONT, or Chaumont-en Bassigny. Hotels -De l'Ecu-de-France (French Crown-piece); de l'Arbre d'Or (Golden Tree); de la Foste. Population, 6,000. Chief town of department Marne, on a ridge of the Marne where the Buize joins. It grew out of a castle built by the Counts of Champagne, was fortified by Louis XII., and is known for the treaty signed here by the Allies against Napoleon, 1814. Some parts of it are well built; but there is little worth notice. Among the buildings are the Hôtel de Ville, which has a bust of Henry IV.; the palais de justice, the college, with a good portico to the chapel, library of 35,000 volumes, and cabinet of natural history, hospital, theatre, fountains, made by Cordier de Béziers, and a triumphal arch begun by Napoleon, but finished by Louis XVII. Bouchardon, the sculptor, and Lamoise, the Jesuit, are natives. Manufactures of druggets, gloves of good quality, cutlery, &c. The falls of the Marne are 1 kil. off.

Conveyances, by coach, to Troyes, Dijon, Epinal, St. Dizier, &c.-It is 111 kil. to Nancy, vid Neufchâteau.

From Chaumont, up the Marne, on the road to Vesoul, you pass

VESSAINES (17 kil.).

LANGRES (18 kil.), an ancient town, sous-préfecture, bishopric, &c., and seat of the cutlery trade, on a hill side by the Marne, which here runs through a cultivated plain, 1,457 feet above the sea, on which that river, with the Aube, the Meuse, &c., take their rise. It is the roman Langonum, and there is yet a triumphal arch in the west wall, built about 240, by the Emperor Gordian. The old romanesque cathedral of the eleventh century, has a modern front, and a fine

[Sec 4

view from the top. A library of 30,000 volumes at the Hôtel de Ville, and a museum at St. Didier's old church. It has two theatres, a college, priests' seminary, &c. A walk through the Belle Fontaine promenade leads to the Fontaine de la Grenouille, among large trees. Diderot was a native. The cutlery made here is of a superior kind. Hotels-De la Poste l'Europe, &c. Population, 8,700.

[Bourbonne-les-Bains (42 kil. north-east, vid Montigny), in department Haute-Marne, in a pleasant spot where the Apance and Borne meet, is noted for its baths, called La Fontaine and Grand Bassin, useful in cases of rheumatism, paralysis, scrofula. &c, and much frequented between June and October. It has a military hospital, with 500 beds, and an establishment for civilians, containing 50 baths, besides assembly rooms, &c. Both the baths and living are moderate. Popula tion, 3,900. Hotels-Du Commerce; des Vosges.]

FAYL-BILLOT (27 kil.) has a good cutlery trade. PORT-SUR-SAONE (24 kil.), on the Saône, has a trade in iron, cattle, &c., and remains of a castle on an island near the bridge.

At 13 kil. further is

VESOUL. Hotels-De la Madeleine; de la Cigogne (Stork); de l'Aigle Noir (Black Eagle). Population, 6,000. This small capital of department Haute-Saône (once part of Franche Comté) in the valley of the Durgeon, belonged to the Besançon archbishops, the Duke of Burgundy, &c., and after suffering in the wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, was joined to France by the peace of Nimwegen, 1678. The old walls are gone, as well as its impregnable castle, which stood on La Motte, a peak 1,320 feet high to the top, covered with vineyards, and commanding a noble prospect. Most of the buildings are mo dern,-the oldest being the church, built about 1750, with a square tower, and an ancient tomb. The préfecture was built 1822; in the library are 23,000 vols., with a museum; there are also public baths, a salle de spectacle, cavalry barracks (built 1777), a priests' school, pepinière or nursery, &c. Trade in wine, grain, &c.

Coaches to Paris, Besançon, Dijon, Lure, Epinal, Mulhouse, &c. Fossil bones have been found in the grotto of Trou-de-la-Baunie, near Echenoz.

Route 27]

[Villersexel (20 kil. east-south-east), on the Oignon, has the fine château of the Marquis de Gammont,-a family whose castle was formerly on the Montagne de Grammont (within view), and who founded a hospital here, 1769, as well as the ancient abbey of Vieux-Croissant.

Luxeuil or Luxen (30 kil.), is another place for mineral baths, in a plain under the Vosges, covered with wood. It was known to the Romans, as proved by an inscription at the Hôtel de Ville, in the Rue des Romains, where the baths stand in the midst of fine grounds, under the names of Bains des Femmes, des Hommes, &c. They are of the same quality as those of Plombières. It has a college, and old benedictine abbey. Population 3,800. Trade in hams, cattle, wine, grain. Hotels-Du Lion d'Or (Golden Lion); Lion Vert (Green Lion).] CALMONTIER (11 kil.) on the Durgeon, near several grottoes and falls.

LURE (18 kil) a sous-préfecture, in department Haute-Saône (population 3,250), on the wide marshy plain of the Oignon, was once a strong place, and had an abbey of the seventh century, parts of which, in the Grand Rue or High street (where many large houses are seen) are used for the mairie, theatre, &c. The college is a large building, as is the Hôtel de Ville, built 1836. Frequent markets and fairs are held. CAMPAGNEY (18 kil.) on the Rohain, a mining village of 3,100 souls.

[Hericourt (16 kil. south) on the little river Luzenne, a bustling village of 3,000 persons chiefly Protestants, who use the nave of the church, while the Catholics take the choir. It has several old houses, and the castle of the dukes of Wurtemburg, who obtained it 1561, along with Montbeliard.]

BELFORT, or Béfort (14 kil.) where the road from Besançon (see Route 30) and five other high roads fall in, making it a good place for trade, is a sous-préfecture of 5,500 souls, and a first class fortress, in a healthy part of the Savoureuse, between the Vosges and Jura mountains. It has three gates and faubourgs, and is divided into High and Low town. The church was built 1728; there are a good Hôtel de Ville, a college, and a library of 20,000 vols.; also a military hospital and barracks. On the rock above

96

is the castle (bel fort), built 1228, and held by the Austrians till given up to France by the treaty of Munster, when it was fortified by Vauban, being the first on his system. Another rock to the north is crowned by a ruined tower, called Pierre Miotte. Trade in wine, eaux-de-vie, excellent kirsch-wasser, cheese, iron, brass, copper, &c. Hotels-De l'Ancienne Poste; du Sauvage; da Commerce. Coaches to Mulhouse (on the Strasbourg rail), Basle, Besançon, Lyons, &c. CHAVANNES-SUR-L'ETANG (15 kil.) on the Rhine and Rhône canal.

ALTKIRCH (19 kil.) a dull sous-préfecture, of 3,400 souls, on a hill-side by the Ill, with ruins of a cbâteau built by the Counts of Ferrette, and made the seat of the Dukes of Austria when Alsace belonged to them. Trade in pottery, hemp, ribbons, wine, cattle, &c. Hotel-De la Tête d'Or (Golden Head.) Coaches to Basle and Mulhouse.

[Ferrette, or la Ferrette (15 kil. south-south

east) has the picturesque remains of its old castle on a rock above it, near a branch of the Ill, not far from the Swiss border. Its name occurs in Anne of Geierstein;' and it has a well, they say, nearly 640 feet deep.Lucelle, 9 kil. south-west of this, near Suits island, had a cistercian abbey burnt 1524; to which was attached the castle of Lowenbourg, a ruin on a hill near. That of Blomont, burnt by the Baslese 1449, is on ano. ther hill.]

LOCH-WURTH (13 kil.)

ST. LOUIS (15 kil.) with a frontier customhouse, on the Strasbourg and Basle rail. At 5 kil. further is Bâle or Basle in SwITZE LAND.

ROUTE 28.

Joigny to Auxerre, Clamecy, Aral-
lon, Autun, and Chalons-sur-Saone.
By rail to Clamecy, and thence by road.
JOIGNY, as in Route 24, on the Lyons rail.
Ascending the Yonne you come to
BASSON (10 kil.) on the branch rail.
APPOIGNY (4 kil.)

And 8 kil. further is

Auxerre. Hotels-Du Leopard; de Beaune, du Faisan (Pheasant). Population 11,439. Capital of department Yonne, and seat of a diocess is an ancient town on a healthy slope in the Bur.

96

gundy wine country. It was called Autissiodu rum when Cæsar took it, A.D. 521, and had a bishop as early as 273. The Yonne makes a port for the conveyance of produce, opposite an island covered with trees and mills. The streets

are in general narrow. There are good prospects from the boulevards.

The fine Cathedral dedicated to St. Etienne 'Stephen), on the hill, built between 1035 ard 1543, is 328 feet long, 111 feet high to the vault, with a tower (the last built) 195 feet high. It is chiefly in the flamboyant (pointed) style, and much admired for its regularity, fine portals, ornaments, columns, figures, &c., and especially the large number of richly stained windows. The altar is simple but grand, and has near it figures of the patron Saint, Bishop Amyot, the translator of Plutarch, and Bishop Colbert, brother of that minister. St. Eusebius' and St. Peter's churches bear marks of the romanesque style, corresponding to our norman. St Germain's Abbey (now part of the Hôtel de Ville) covered the relics of above sixty saints, including the one also commemorated by the Parisian church of St. Germain l'Auxerrois, and it holds the tombs of the old counts.

Hôtel de la préfecture was the bishop's palace. At the bibliothèque, or public library, are 15,000 vols., 200 MSS., and Baron Denon's collection of medals, &c. The clock tower, on a gate near the old house of the dukes of Burgundy was made 1670, and marks solar and mean time, with the changes of the moon. There are also a large foundry, hospital, college, theatre, baths, barracks, and botanic garden. Trade in wine, as petit vin d'Auxerre (used to flavour Burgundy), Chablis (white), Côte de la Chênette and Côte de la Mégrène (both red); timber for casks, a few woollens, &c.

Conveyances, daily, by rail, to Paris, Dijon, Lyons, &c.; by coach, to Toucy, St. Fargean, St. Sauveur.

[Toucy (18 kil. south-west) on the Onane, was

the place where Hugh Capet's brother, St. Heribert, built a château and died 995. At Mainfron is a mineral water.-At 13 kil. south-west of this is St. Sauveur, in the beautiful country of Puisaye, having a château, an ancient tower, and the ruins of Moutier Abbey.-At 10 kil. further to the west, towards the Loire, stands the fine

[Sec. 4

château of St. Fargeau, in the midst of a great park. It was founded as far back as 980, but has been rebuilt, having passed through the hands of René d'Anjou, Gaston, Duc de Montpensier, &c., and now belongs to the Marquis de Boisgelin. Vermenton (18 kil. south-south-east of Auxerre) in a pretty part of the Cure, under a hill, has an old church, with a remarkable recessed porch, having in the arch, God the Father, in the midst of angels, apostles, bishops, &c.; while below, on pedestals, are larger figures of the Son, the Virgin, a saint, and four crowned persons.]

From Auxerre, along the rail you pass on to Courson (20 kil.), Coulangis-sur-Yonne (7 kil.), and

CLAMECY (9 kil.), a sous-préfecture in department Nièvre, of 5,734 inhabitants, on the Yonne and Beuvron, with a good trade in wood, charcoal. &c. Near it are the Villette paper factories. The rail, which ends here at present, is to be carried on to Nevers, following the Yonne and the canal du Niverrais. Coaches to Varzy, La Charité, Premery, and Nevers.

[Varzy (15 kil. south-east), under a vine-covered hill. La Charité, 36 kil. beyond, as in Route 25. Hence it is 23 kil. up the Loire to Nevers; and 45 kil. to Bourges (see Route 51).]

From Clamecy, on the way to Chalons, you pass

VEZELEY (18 kil.), having the very ancient Madeleine church, which belonged to the abbey founded in the ninth century by Gherard de Roussillon, where St. Bernard preached a crusade before Louis VII., in 1145. T. Beza, the reformer, was a native.

AVALLON (16 kil.) a sous-préfecture of department Yonne, in a charming valley on the Cousin' was the roman Aballo, and had a castle of the dukes of Burgundy. Petit Cours, the site of a roman camp, offers a fine prospect. Population 5,569. The church has a curious porch. [At 20 kil. to the left are the famous caves of Arcy-sur-Cure, which include several chambers, the largest being above 1,200 feet. They are visited in dry weather, about August or September.]

The next places are

SAULIEU (39 kil.) Arnay-le-Duc (28 kil.), Ivry

(17 kil.); and 40 kil. further is Chalons-surSaône, on the rail (see Route 24).

From Clamecy (as above) by a more direct way to Chalons you pass

CHATEAU CHINON (about 130 kil. or 84 miles from Avallon), a small sous-préfecture, on a mountain about 1,900 feet above sea level, in the midst of woodland, near the source of the Yonne. The air though healthy is sharp and cold Autun (37 kil.) on the Arroux, where seven roads meet, is a sous-préfecture, in department Saône-et-Loire, a bishopric, &c., remarkable for its roman remains. You may also reach it by way of Beaune, on the Lyons rail, from which it is 50 to 60 kil. It was the roman Bibracte or Augustodunum, one of the chief places in Gaul, and was burnt by the Saracens about 730. The present town is on a slope, under three hills (Mont Drad or Druid, Mont Jeu or Jove, and Mont Cenis which has a lake supplying the town with water) occupying about one-third of the old site, within the ancient walls, which are solid and entire in most parts, and about 3 miles round. Two gates out of four are left, of arches on arches, with pilasters, &c. One is Porte St André close to St. Andrew's Church; the other and the best, Porte d'Arroux, or Porta Senonica, is 53 ft. by 46, and leads over the river, past the site (circular) of the Temple of Pluto to the mouth of the Tarenai, which joins the Arroux here, and is crossed by a sort of bent Roman Bridge or causeway of 17 arches, above 300 feet long. Between this and the bridge of St. Andoche, on the Chaumar or Campus Martius, stands another relic, the Temple of Janus, a square pile, of which three sides remain, 56 feet long, 72 high. The Marchau is the Martiale Forum at the centre of the old town where the two leading roads met. Place de Ladre in the Ville, or lower town, has around it the sites only of the Emperor's palace, the temples of Hercules, Apollo, and Minerva, the baths, the Menian schools, &c.

In the upper town, or Château (where the capitol stood), is St. Lazare, or Lazarus Cathedral, having a fine crocketed spire, four quaintly carved pillars in the entrance, a good choir, statues of President Jeaurin, &c. An ionic fountain adorns the place (square) in front. Other buildings are the priests' seminary, a large pile; the college and public library, having many rare books, a musown, &,

M

97

The tower of Francis I. is a ruin; the ruins also of the roman theatre and amphitheatre are visible, inside the old walls (to the east) and traces of the naumachia (a hollow), lie without. On a hill to the south, called Champ des Wines, is the Pierre de Couard, a kind of stone pyramid, 72 feet by 59, and 65 high. A collection of above 3,000 roman coins is at the Mairie. Population 9,921. Hotels-De la Cloche (Bell)'; de la Poste; de la Ville de Lyon. Carpets, rough bed coverlets, &c. are made. Conveyances, daily, to Chalons,Dijon, Nevers (on Orleans rail). ST. LEGER (31 kil.).

CHALONS (20 kil.) as in Route 24.

ROUTE 29.

Dijon to Dole, Poligny, Lons-le-
Saulnier, Lausanne, Geneva.
Distance, 181 kil., or 112 miles.
DIJON, as in Route 24.

GENLIS (16 kil.), on the Tille.

AUXONNE (14 kil.), on the Saône, a military post of the fourth class, fortified by Vauban, 1675. Population, 4,700. It has an arsenal, barracks, powder magazine, &c.; and it was here that the sledges were made for Napoleon, when he carried his ordnance over the Great St. Bernard, in the winter of 1800.

[St. Jean de Losne (16 kil. south-west), an old village, in a green spot, down the Saône, where the Canal de Bourgogne falls in, and near the mouth of the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. It sustained a hard siege in 1636. Seurre, 14 miles south-west of this, lower down the Saône, where it becomes navigable, has a population of 3,100, and a good trade in grain, wood, charcoal, &c.]

DÔLE (16 kil.), a sous-préfecture in department Jura, pleasantly situated on the Doubs, near the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, with some fine prospects round it. The streets are steep. It has remains of a roman amphitheatre and aqueduct, an old Hôtel de Ville, Vergy tower (near the prison), the college de l'Arc (which belonged to the Jesuits), a library of 6,000 vols., with a museum of paintings, by natives of Franche Comté, of which this town was the capital. It was given up to France in the time o Louis XIV Iron and coal are found here.

MONT-SOUS-VAUDREY (18 kil.), a pretty little place, where the road to Lausanne turns off (36 leagues, or about 90 miles, via Pontarlier, for which see Route 30).

[Sallins, on this road, 43 kil. from Mont-sousVaudrey, is a town of 7,000 souls, in a rocky gorge among the mountains, at the head of the Furieuse, and has been rebuilt since the great fire of 1825, by a contribution of two million francs from all parts of France. It is noted for the government salt works (salines), an immense pile above 900 feet long, where salt is boiled for the brine springs in the gypsum, which corresponds to the new red sandstone of Cheshire. There is a good trade in wine, wax, honey, and cheese. Mont Poupet, near it, is 2,490 feet above the sea.].

POLIGNY (19 kil.), a sous-préfecture, and the iatin Castrum Olinum, at the head of the Golantine, in a gap under the Jura mountains, having several fountains and mills, a saltpetre work, part of an old fort, and of a roman way called Chemin Pavé. Population, 5,900. A little north of it is Arbois, where Pichegru was born.

Lons-le-Saulnier is 30 kil. south-west of Poligny (see Route 31).

[Pierre (30 kil. west), near the fine moated

château of Thiard or Thyard, built 1672. It consists of two courts, and contains among other rooms, the cabinet de l'Empereur, in which are Napoleon's writing desk and bureau.]

CHAMPAGNOLE (22 kil.), in a pretty spot on the ascent of the Jura, under Mont Rivel, on the Ain, which turns mills for making wire, &c.

ST. LAURENT (23 kil.), at the top of the Jura range, has a douane or custom house, and an old castle commanding a wide prospect. Hotel PEcu. Thence down to

MOREZ (12 kl.), in a narrow gorge of the Bienne, lined with mills and forges. Population, 3,200. Clock work, tourne-broches (jacks), pins, nails, cotton thread, &c., are made; and there is a good trade in Gruyère cheese, timber, wine, &c.

The last French custom-house is here; and here also the rivers divide, some towards the North Sea, others towards the Mediterranean. Here the road turns off to Noyon, on the Lake of Geneva.

LA VATTAY or Lavatay (5 kil.), a small col. lection of chalets, from which there is a short cut towards Gex, through the narrow defile of Monts Faucilles, which brings you to the south side of the mountain, and all of a sudden discovers one of the grandest prospects in Europe, taking in the Lake of Geneva, Mont Blane, part of Savoy, &c. The traveller must look out for this by all means; especially towards sunset.

GEX (15 kil)., a small sous-préfecture (in department Ain) of 2,900 souls, at the bottom of Mont St. Claude, on the Jornans, between the Jura mountains and lake of Geneva, of which it commands a fine view, as well as of the Alps, the Jura chain, &c. Gruyère cheese, watches, &c. are made. Hotels-De la Poste; des Etrangers; du Pont d'Arche.

[About 28 kil. to the west-north-west is St.

Claude, another sous-préfecture (in department Jura), and a seat of a diocess, in a picturesque valley in the Jura range, where the Bienne and Tacon join. The cathedral is not remarkable. Many small articles in bone, ivory, wood, as well as buttons, musical instruments, nails, copper goods (quin. caillerie), &c., are made. Population, 6,000.. Round it are some objects worthy of notice, as the falls of Flumen and Queue du Cheval (i.e. Horse Tail), Foules cave, the intermittent springs of Noire Combe, the Pont de la Pile on the Ain, and the pass leading to Tour-du-Meix.-Sept- Moncel (12 kil.) is noted for its cheese, and manufacture of stone carvings.]

FERNEY, OF FERNEY-VOLTAIRE (12 kil.), on the Swiss side, is a small village of watch-makers, on a beautiful part of the Geneva lake, formerly the residence of Voltaire, from 1759 to 1778. They shew his sitting-room and chamber; portraits of him, of Frederick the Great, Catherine II. (in tapestry, worked by herself), Franklin &c.; also a pyramid (which once held his heart), set up by the Marquise de Villette, his adopted