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have a better house to manage to-morrow. genuine specimen of the Maclarty species ; He seemed ashamed both of it and of and is indeed so generic, tbal it will serve, himself, and looked surprised when I had as well as Tyndrum or any other, for a mosettled myself to remain. Nor did I take del of what this kind of hostelry is and my leave of it and him, till I had con- may be. vinced bim that, as his poverty but not his When you hear Pe ggy called, as will consented, so it was my time and not if the first vowel was just about to thaw, my'repugnance to his house that drove me like Sir John Mandeville's story, and when from him.
you hear Peggy answer co--ming, :.- English travellers are apt to complain you must not prepare to be impatient, but that they do not meet with this species of recollect that motion cannot be performed Highlander; and it cannot be denied that without time. If you are wet, the are a different one is somewhat more promis will be tighted by the time you are dry; at nent; as is always the case where merit least if the peat is not wet too. The and demerit compete for notice. But he smoke of wet peat is wholesome; and, if may be found by those who choose to seek you are not used to it, they are, which is him : and I fear that, if he is often spoil the same thing. There is neither poker ed, we have only ourselves to blame, and nor tongs; you can stir it with your uillthat in more ways than one. In ascend- brella : nor bellows; you can blow it, uning Ben Lawers I had met with a young less you are asthmatic: or, what is better shepherd boy, who eventually proved to still, Peggy will fan it with her petticoat. be Peter's son. I asked him to accom- “ Peggy, is the supper coming ?” In pany me, for the sake of conversation, time comes 'mutton, called chops, then and, when about to part, offered him a mustard, by-and-by a knife and fork : shilling. This he refused: but it was successively, a plate, a candle, and salt. forced on him, and, in so doing, I am sure When the mutton is cold, the pepper arI did wrong; for it is likely that he will rives, and then the bread, and lastly the never refuse one again, and will possibly whisky. The water is reserved for the end by demanding five. Certainly he second course. It is good policy to place will never ascend the hill again with a these various matters in all directions, stranger without expecting a reward : and because they conceal the defects of Mrs. if he does not receive it, he will be disap- Maclarty's, table-cloth. By this time the pointed. I have probably taught him to tire is dying ; Peggy wails till it is dead, sell the civility which he was accustomed and then the whole process of the peats to give. It is thus that Englishmen assist and the petticoat is to be gone over again. in corrupting the Highlanders, as they It is all in vain. “Is the bed ready?". have long since corrupted each other: by By the time you have fallen asleep once an Costentatious display of that wealth or twice, it is ready. When you enter, which, to a genuine Englishman, is the it is damp: but how should ito be dry in substitute for all the virtues; nay, is vir- such a climate ? The blankets feel so tue itself. The condition of society is heavy that you expect to get warm in wrong where every thing bas its price; tinc. Not at all: they have the prowhen even the common charities of life, perty of weight, without warmth : though the friendly intercourse of man with man, there is a fulling-mill at Kilmahog. You is matter of barter and sale.
· awaken at two o'clock; very cold, and oni ANOTHER INN.
find that they have slipped over on the "I wish I could speak of the inns at Cal. floor. You try to square them again, but lander as I have spoken of that at Dollar; such is their weight that they fall on but it is a mixed world, inns and all, and the other side ; and, at last, by dint of we must take it as it comes. I mistook kicking and pulling, they become irremethe golden head over the door for that of diably entangled, sheets and all; and Galen or Hippocrates : if it is not yours, sleep Gies, whatever King Henry may it ought to be ; for the owner is certainly think, to take refuge in other beds and inore indebted to you than to either of other blankets. these worthies, or to any merits of his 'It is vain to try again, and you get up own, for his practice. All the varnish of at five. Water being so contemptibly this inn is insufficient to varnish its defects : common, it is probable ibat there is none from the stable to the kitchen, and the present: or, if there is, it has a delicious kitchen to the parlour, and the parlour to 'favour of stale whisky: so that you may the bed-room ; wants of all kinds, except almost imagine the Highland rills to run of pride and negligence; and of bells, grog. There is no svap in Mrs. Maclarwhich, the more you ring, the more no. ty's house. It is prudent also to learn to body will come. But what is this to shave without a looking glass ; because, John MacPherson's inn, to which you if there is one, it is so furrowed and striped may go if you please, and whither, possi- and striated, either cross-wise, or perpenbly, you may be compelled to go? It is a dicularly, or diagonally, that, in consca
quence of what Sir Isaac Newton might I am sure you can have no inclination to call its fits of irregular reflection and trans- partake with me of the breakfast, which mission, you cut your nose if it distorts will probably be ready in two bours. i you one way, and your ear if it protracts
A you in the opposite direction. The towel But it would be unjust to censure the being either wet or dirty, or both, you Highlanders for their inattention to cleanwipe yourself in the moreen curtains, un- liness, as if it was exclusively the fault of Jess you prefer the sheets. When you re this portion of Scotland. Where Mrs. turn to your sitting-room, the table is co- Hamilton's Glenburnie lies, no one knows; vered with glasses, and mugs, and circles but we need not be very anxious, as we of dried whisky and porter. The fire. can find a Glenburnie every where, and, place is full of white ashes : you labour assuredly, as easily in the Lowlands as in to open a window, if it will open, that the Highlands. The Maclartys are an you may get a little of the morning air: ancient and a powerful family; I wish and there being no sash-line, it falls I could add that it was an antiquated on your fingers, as it did on Susanna's. one also; but I fear that it is still a Should you break a pane, it is of no con- thriving race. If it was but possible to sequence, as it will never be mended prevail on this family to have one thing, again. The clothes which you sent to be but one thing, clean about them, the rest washed are brought up wet; and those would follow of course. If it was their which you sent to be dried, smoked. persons, then their houses would soon be
• You now become impatient for the come clean, as a necessary consequence : breakfast; and, as it will not arrive, you or if it was their houses, their persons go into the kitchen to assist in making the would probably follow, for the sake of kettle boil. You will not accelerate this : uniformity. If but the water or the salt but you will see the economy of Mrs. was clean, if there was a cleari spoon, a Maclarty's kitchen. The kettle, an inch knife, a plate, if there was even a clean thick, is hanging on a black crook in the surface on a looking-glass, it would detect smoke, not on the fire, likely to boil to- the vices of the rest so effectually, that; morrow. If you should be near a forest, like one sturdy honest man in a parish, it there is a train of chips lying from the would in time reform, or at least shame, fire-place to the wood-corner, and the the whole. But unfortunately, in this falandlady is busy, not in separating the mily of the Maclartys, every thing is so two, but in picking out any stray piece consistently, constantly, uniformly, perethat seems likely to be lighted before its nially, dirty in every part, inside, outside, turn comes. You need not ask why the top, bottom, middle, sides, longitudinally, houses do not take fire: because it is all transversely, and diagonally, that no ar. that the fire itself can do, with all its ticle, nor any part of any article, is left to exertions. Round this fire are a few oat. tell the tale on another, or to blush it into cakes, stuck on edge in the ashes to dry ; reform. Were I the Dey of Algiers, or a perhaps a herring: and on the floor, at Highland Laird, I would enhance even on hand, are a heap or two of bed-clothes, a Lord Gwydir, and keep an officer of cat, a few melancholy fowls, a couple of health, with power to wash Mr. and Mrs. black dogs, and perchance a pig, or more; Maclarty and all their family by force, with a pile of undescribables, consisting of or to fumigate them like rats, and, in de horse collars, old shoes, petticoats, a few fault of ultimate reformation, to burn dirty plates and horn spoons, a kilt, pos them out. sibly a bagpipe, a wooden beaker, an , BAREFOOTED PEOPLE. ! empty gill and a pint stoup, a water buck- It is extremely rare to see a man bareet, a greasy candlestick, a rake, a spin- footed; and even that only happens onning-wheel, two or three frowsy fleeces, some specific occasions, not habitually in and a shepherd's plaid, an iron pot full any individual; but it is equally rare to see of potatoes, a never-wasbed milk-tub, women with shoes, except when in full some more potatoes, a griddle, a three- dress, on Sundays, or on the borders of the legged stool, and heaven and earth know Lowlands. Even among females, how. what more. All this time, two or three ever, their use is fast creeping in ; but naked children are peeping at you out of the children of both sexes are bare-legged some unintelligible recess, perchance con- even to an advanced age, not only among testing with the chickens and the dogs for the poorer classes, but also in families of the fire, while Peggy is sitting over it un condition. It is not long since domestic snooded: one hand in her head, and the female servants, even in Edinburgh, as other no one knows where, as she is won you well know, paddled about their du. dering when the kettle will not boil; ties unshod : the fashion is still to be found while, if she had a third, it might be em by those who will seek it, and it must be ployed on the other two. But enough of confessed that it is somewhat repulsive to Mrs. Maclarty and her generation, for southern feelings. But out of doors, and in the Higblands, it adds much to the ge. will break your neck, or in which ford be neral picturesque effect of the female at drowned : knowing that the longest day tire, which consists of a short jacket and is too short-knowing that even the Sun shorter petticoat; and, as the limbs of the himself could not perform the journey in fair sex here are well turned, far dif- view in less than the time you have alferent from those of the Welsh women, lotted for it. ' * which seem as if they had been shaped in • After walking three miles in search of a lathe, a painter will be sorry for the day the horse, and waiting seven hours, he when the progress of improvement shall was found : but it was plain to see that, have swept away this distinction. I can even then, all was not right: Sandy Macnot equally praise the mode of dressing donald “could not leave his harvest tothe hair ; the smoothed locks of all hues, day,” though he was paid for it. Let no drawn tightly back so as to stretch the man imagine that he understands the true face till it shines, and secured by a huge nature of patience till he has made a black comb, form a termination to the ge- Highland tour, on Highland ponies, and neral effect of the figure which is far from in Highland boats. I agreed to go on picturesque. In the Long Island, chiefly, alone, and sleep at the King's house, to though it is found elsewhere, there is a wait for his convenience. As usual, we head-dress consisting of a dirty-coloured were to start the next morning at six ; handkerchief tied round the head; the ef- but the Highland six-to-day it was only fect of which is even worse than that of nine. Even then, though the horse was the comb or snood, as tliere is no attempt ready, the man was not. to give it a pleasing form. But enough, “At five o'clock, the guide, the patient, for the present, of tailoring and millinery. and the horse, found themselves, seve
'EXTORTION. . . rally, at the head of the lake; having .• It was on my last visit to Glenco that spent eight hours of hard labour in tra. I formed the courageous resolution of exó versing twelve miles, as it is called. As ploring this almost unknown spot ; unjust to the horse, he might as well have res ly, perhaps, neglected, since it might form mained at Glenco. A ride 'this was not, an easy connexion between the central by any figure of speech: I cannot even Highlands and the Western Sea. If you call it a walk ; for half the 'space was know how you may breakfast at Tyanuilt, traversed by jumping over' bogs, and why sl.ould I not also tell you how you holes, and ditches, and pits, which were may hire a horse in Glenco ? I had taken generally so wide as to demand much the precaution of engaging mine on the serior's ineditation. I may fairly say preceding evening, and it was promised by that I jumped half the way from Glenco six in the morning ; the distance to Ran- to Loch Rannoch. noch being called twenty miles ; a day's “As our trio proceeded in such a saltatory journey. The price for the horse and and disjointed manner, I had not much guide was two guineas; which, for one opportunity of talk with Mr. Macdonald day's ride upon a Highland pony with but, if he thought he had caught a Saxon, two shoes, whose value was five pounds, I knew full well that I had caught a Highand whose annual keep was nothing, while land Tartar. He talked of his harvest, the usual day labour of the guide was á and of the favour he did me by coming shilling, should have satisfied even a Glen- and of the tine he should lose in return. co conscience. The same sum would have ing; with much more that, I well knew, procured a chaise and a man and two was, in no long time, to lead to some horses, for the same distance, or more, at demand beyond his bargain. This, howLondon or York; but Donald, no longer ever, was a point not to be argued in a bog; able to make a creagh on Saxon cows, I hoped that it would be reserved for terra must now, he seems to think, compensate firma. On terra firma we at length found for it by a creagh on a Saxon purse. In ourselves; some whisky and a supper were the morning, the equipage, of course, was ordered as an extra gratuity, and the two not to be found; as the horse had slept guineas were presented, with all imagine on the hill, and was to be caught, not able thanks in addition. “ I shall lose before six, but after nine, and was then to another day of the harvest,” said Sandy be shod, and saddled, and haltered ; and Macdonald," and I expect ye'll give me as the shoes were to be made, the saddle another guinea.” I could only request to be borrowed from some one two or three him to excuse me, as he had named his miles off, and the halter from some one own price, and as two guineas was not a else. There is a pleasing prospect in all bad exchange for the two shillings he these cases, a train of pithy reflections, by would have gained by his harvest. He which you amuse the hours of waiting: remained inflexible: no, did not remain any calculating, at every hour that passes, in thing; but became insolent. At length, which of all the coining bogs you are to finding his eloquence unavailing, “Then spend the night, on which mountain you you wann give me aght shillings for car.' rying your umbrella." The knave had by an occasional sojournment to a whiskycarried this in his hand for a few miles, at house. Even the rain of Fort William has his own desire. I went up stairs. In a no effect on these coteries, which stand minute, however, he was at the door, under the torrents that are showering down swearing that he would stay there all on them, unheeding, undiscomposed; less night, that I should have no supper, and concerned than the very ducks, which that I should not stir till he was paid all quack iemonstrance against the sky, and his demand. Accordingly, I betook my- not even retiring into their own ever-open self to my little Herace; listening to much doors. My very guide, whose respect objurgation and vituperation, both in and confidence the compass had, secured, Gaelic and English: the former having a lamented the bad example and the want very ferocious sound, but being, fortu- of employment, complained that his own nately, a dead letter. But finding, after morals were in danger, and was willing to an hour, that he made no impresion on attend me for any thing or notbing, if Saxon obstinacy, he at length consoled he could but escape from Fort William.. himself by saying that I was not a gentle
'BOATS. man, but that he would take the mo- As to the hiring of boats in the High. ney. I assured him that he was right, lands, it is at their weight in gold nearly. that I was not a gentleman, but an in. Putting aside byperbole, however, three former, and that, instead of paying him, days' freight will pay the value of any I would lodge an information against boat that swims, if swimming it can be him for letting horses on bire without a called, half full of water, as is the fashion license, I had learned this expedient on the west coast. The half of a board, from your friend and mine, Daniell, who shoved into the angle of the sharp stern, bad been driven to it on similar occasions. serves to remind you that there is no seat. I thank thee, Daniell, for teaching me that As there is no floor, your feet are in the word ; for it was an astounding and an water to the ancles: the remains of the unexpected blow: and, like oil on the fish that were caught on the day it was stormy sea in the Naufragium of Erasmus, first launched are there still; odorous, it caused the rage of the mountaineer to but not of violets. A man without a coat, fall at once to a moderate level; but not and a boy without breeches, pull upon a till after he had protested that he had been couple of oars hung on pins: pretty hard, once ru ned already by an information, I admit, if the machinery is new ; but if and would be ruined again rather than old, as is more likely, there is danger of submit to a Sassanach. I need not tell their breaking, and you sit in terror; for you that the man got his money and de. what is a two-oared boat with only one parted, vowing revenge against the next oar? If, unfortunately, there is wind, and Saxon who should fall into his clutches. a sail, that sail is a blanket, without sheet, It is not very wonderful that travellers in haulyard, or tack, and you must steer as the Highlands call the people extortion.. well as you can, yourself, with one of the ers : for, in the matter of horses, you will oars. if the wind is short, you go all to find nearly the same wherever you go. leeward and nothing forward : if baffling, 'IDLENESS.
you are taken aback and overset : if aft, • In one respect, Fort William possesses you cannot scud, and are pooped and the distinguishing marks of a capital: swamped; or else your sail gibes beyond idleness. This is precisely the conse- the power of art to prevent it, and down quence which the Highlanders themselves you go like cormorants before a musket. say is produced by the building of High. Supposing you escape, you must pay a land villages. Perhaps it is more conspi- guinea, or two, as it happens; that is, if cuous because more condensed; while so- you have made such a bargain. If not, and cial or gregarious idleness is more promiyou are sulky, and of true English blood, nent than the solitary doing of nothing ; you go before the justice: like a travelbeing active instcad of passive. It is the ling poet whom I once met. The justice agere nibil instead of the nihil agere. To was the landlord, and he said, “ Ah! poor lounge about the streets, impede the way, fellow-it is hard work :"-and the two and to be busily and offensively idle, is a guineas served to pay the rent when term Scottish fashion: and to those, therefore, day came round. Such at least was this who are well acquainted with the High poet's conclusion. But the poet reasoned Street or the Gallowgate, Fort William like the jockey. The fares are often reguwill not appear very new. To London- lated. And there are boatmen too whom ers it may be new to see the single street I have paid with pleasure. of which it consists crowded with idle,
HORSES. men walking about with their hands in If boats are ihus, what shall we say their pockeis, or collected in groups to about horses? The value of the beast yawn together or conver:e in monosylla- is five pounds : bis annual grass, pos. bles; except when soused to louder talk sibly as many shillings; commonly, no. thing. If he has any shoes, there are but which offer the only fair comparison with two, and he is not, perhaps, much accus- Scotland, there is as little exertion of the tomed even to these. Haller or bridle, criminal laws required as in that country.it is tolerably indifferent which; but the Wales, among others, which, for this purhalter is the softest in your hand. I have pose, may fairly be considered as England, ridden on a quadrupled sack, and the stir- presents as may maiden assizes as even rups' were two nooses of rope. This is the Highlands. Let us not also forget, perhaps better than a saddle with the flaps though I do not pretend to assign the curled upwards, wbich has undergone all cause, that, in the latter country, much the vicissitudes of rain and fire for twenty of this vice and crime has been overlooked. years; an application which neither man It is acknowledged, and was nerer indeed nor horse can bear long. This Bucepha- ' denied, that many hundred sheep' were lus was hired for the day, and you rose to stolen, within a few years, in the former, mount him at six. He was in the hill, not distant, condition of Sutherland. Yet however; was chased for a dozen or two not a single prosecution took place. Had of miles before he could be caught ; twenty been stolen in Kent, they would . arrived at two o'clock, blown, and more have led to as many transportations. ready to lie down than go on; and you
EDUCATION. ; pay half a guinea, or a guinea, as it may If this presumed superior morality of be, for crawling out the remainder of a Scotland depended on education merely, rainy day on bim. The guide, who earns how are we to explain why that great mass a shilling if he stays at home, that is, if he of Highlanders, which has been hitherto can find one to earn, will not walk by deprived of this advantage, should be fully your side to bring him back, without an- on a par in this respect, to say no less, other half guinea ; and, for less than all with their countrymen of the Lowlands. this, you might have ridden one of Mr. It must be obvious also to every one, for Fozard's best hunters to Epsom races. it is too lamentably plain to be denied, 'MORALITY.
that the national morality of Scotland is It seems to me that their neighbours rapidly declining, while its education is the English, and not seldom ourselves rather increasing than diminishing. The also, commit an error, of which the con causes of this also are sufficiently obvious ; sequences are more inportant than they at but as I need not enter into them, I shall first appear, when they attribute the su-' only request those who have adopted this perior morality of the Scots in general, to theory with regard to Scotland and England education. This opinion, taken as an un- respectively, to reconsider a subject on disputed fact, has been one of the great which we cannot trifle with impunity. It arguments lately brought forward in fa- has also been far too little considered, vour of popular education; as if that alone during the heat of this question, what the would redress all the evils to be remedied, different effects are which education proor as if the mere act of learning to read, duces on a rural and a dispersed populawould (I do not speak it nationally) con- tion, and on one which is condensed in vert an Englishman into a Scotchman. *. towns and manufactories. It is most im* It does not require much consideration portant to reflect on the different destina. to see that this notion is unfounded. I will tion, or consequences, of education in not, and indeed I need not ask, what it these two cases, and on the addition which really is which renders the national mo.. the power of reading may make to those rality of Scotland superior to that of Eng-· evils which seem almost necessarily to land : though there would be very little flow from the condensation of the lower : difficulty in assigning the causes. Yet orders. Poison and honey may both be there has been a good deal of exaggera- extracted from the same flower by different. tion and mis-statement on this subject. agents; and it is a melancholy reflection, England, never touchy about its national that when we have enabled the people, in character, and always bearing censure these cases, to read their Bibles, that bewith the greatest good humour, has suf.. comes, perhaps, the only book which they fered the remark to pass so long, that it will never open. ; is now received as a demonstrated truth.
MISERY. It is very far indeed from being that. *. •Close on the margin of the shore, on a' * I doubt much whether, abstracting, as spot of waste green, was a hut, built of we are in justice bound to do, all that open wicker work; pervious to all the which constitutes the real difference be winds, and ill protected from the rain by tween London and Edinburgh, the immo- an imperfect covering of turf. On enterrality of the latter is not equal, perhaps ing it, we found a poor woman cooking greater, than that of the former, regard sume shellfish 'over a peat fire, attended being also had, numerically, to the inha- by two children. On the floor, scarcely: bitants. ; Nor must it be forgotten, that, covered by a wretched supply of blankets, in the non-manufacturing English districts, lay the husband, sick, of a fever as we