often lend additional interest to the nar- | gallantry to climb this rock, especially rative. The island of St. Kilda is situated in fifty-seven degrees forty-eight minutes north latitude, and eighty degrees twentyfive minutes west longitude; too remote in the Atlantic to be in general marked upon the maps of Scotland. It is comprised within the parish of Harris, but is distant sixty miles from the parish church in the latter island, the mighty waves of an ocean, often impassable in that latitude, rolling between them. St. Kilda is about three miles in length, from east to west; about two in breadth, from north to south; and about nine and a-half in circumference. Its direct distance from the nearest point of the mainland of Scotland, is one hundred and forty miles, but the route to it, in any direction by sea, is much longer. First, Levinis, half a league distant, about fourteen paces high, and thirty in circumference, but tapering towards the top, and with scarcely any soil or verdure. A spring of fresh water issues from the side of it: a striking instance of the beneficent kindness of a gracious God, which displays itself in even the most desolate and remote regions of His empire, to relieve in man's heart the dreariness of solitude, by the consciousness that there also the great Creator is present, as everywhere else, caring and providing for the wants and comforts of His creatures. that part of it called the Thumb, which is so little, that of all the parts of a man's body, the thumb only can lay hold on it, and that must be only for the space of one minute, during which time his feet have no support, nor any part of his body touches the stone, except the thumb; in which minute he must jump, by the help of his thumb, (the agility of his body concurring to raise him higher at the time,) to a sharp point of the rock, which, when he has got hold of, puts him out of danger; and having a rope about his middle, which he casts down to the boat, by the help of this, he brings up as many persons as are designed for fowling at this time. The foreman, or principal climber, has the reward of four fowls bestowed upon him, over and above his proportion. Perhaps one might think four thousand too little to compensate such a danger as this man incurs; but he has the advantage by it of being recorded among their greatest heroes, as are all the foremen who lead the van in getting up this Mischievous Rock.” Its general outline, when viewed from sea, on approaching it, is very striking and picturesque, the whole island being one immense rock, separated into four distinct summits or mountains, of considerable height; and several tall rocks, constituting separate islets, being scat- Third, Soa, scarcely a mile off, retered around it, like outposts, at consider-markable for the steepness of its sides able distances, to which the St. Kildans all round, which rise full half a mile resort, at certain seasons, to fish and kill above the sea in nearly perpendicular wild fowl. The principal of these rocky ascent. It is one mile and a half in islets arecircumference at the base, but tapers towards the summit, and for the most part is mere bare rock, although in some places there are scantlings of earth and grass. It can scarcely be landed upon, excepting at one place, and in a particular state of the weather and tide; and yet, difficult and dangerous as it is, the inhabitants carry burdens with facility both up and down it, and pursue and catch the sheep that are upon it, with as much freedom and agility, as if it were a plain field. The sheep it supports are some hundreds in number; and these, as well as in the adjacent little isles of Harris and North Uist, bring forth two or three lambs at a birth; while every ewe lamb generally becomes a dam before it is a year old. One reason of this fecundity is supposed to be, that the ewes are never milked by the inhabitants; but this can have no effect on the ewe lamb the first year of its life, so that the more probable reason is, the humidity and warmth of the hollows in which the animals browse, which are sheltered from the blasts by the overhanging cliffs, and which, heated to a high degree by the sun shining down upon a thin soil spread on the reflecting rocks, Second, Stackdoun, (or Mischievous Rock, as the word signifies in the language of the inhabitants,) about half a mile distant, resembling in form a steeple, or spire, and remarkable for the difficulty of its ascent, which gives occasion to acts of enterprise among the St. Kildans every season, as full of danger and heroism as was the celebrated ascent of Peterbott, in the Isle of France, by a party of British sailors, some years ago. "There is very great dexterity needful," says Martin, and it is reckoned no small piece of yield grasses and herbs that are stated to be extremely sweet and nutritious. only one landing-place, which can be approached only in a calm. It was shaken by an earthquake in 1686, which greatly terrified the inhabitants, among whom there is no tradition of any similar visitation, either previously or subsequently. Sixth, Stacknarmin, about the distance of a stone's cast to the west of Borera, is half a mile in circumference, very steep, and as inaccessible as any of the others. It can be approached only in two places, during a perfect calm, and the ascent, after landing, is extremely difficult and It has neither earth nor herbage upon it; but, like Levinis, has a delicious spring of fresh water issuing from it about middle height, and running in a direction to eastward. These surrounding rocks, which of course are uninhabited, have all to be approached by the St. Kildans with great caution, as a violent current runs there at all times, whether in ebb or flood tide, and indicates the possibility or impossibility of reaching them, by the darkness or whiteness of the waves, as they dash against the cliffs. This appearance the natives study with great attention, and are wonderfully acute in perceiving its various shades of difference. Fourth, Stackly, nearly eight miles to the northward, is two hundred paces in circumference, and of a great height, in the form of a perfect triangle, tapering to a point at the top. It is without grass, or any herb, but is so great a resort of the solan geese, that it is often perfectly white with them, so great are the multitudes that nestle upon it. "One would think it next to impossible," says Martin, "to climb this rock, which I expressed, being very near it: but the in-hazardous. habitants assured me it was practicable; and, to convince me of the truth of it, they bade me look up near the top, where I perceived a stone pyramid-house, which the inhabitants had built for lodging themselves in it in August, at which time the season proves inconstant there. This obliges them, in point of prudence, to send a competent number of those to whose share the lot falls, who are to land upon this rock some days before the solan geese take wing. If they neglect this piece of foresight, one windy day may disappoint them of five, six, or seven thousand solan geese, which this rock affords yearly. They are so very numerous here, that they cannot be divided in respect to their lands, as else where; this, therefore, is the reason why they send here by lots; and those who are sent for the public interest, when they have knocked on the head all that may be reached, then carry them to a sharp point, called the Casting-point, from whence they throw them into the sea, for the height is such, that they dare not throw them into the boat, until the boatmen cry, 'Enough!' lest the sea, which has a strong current there, should carry them off, as it does sometimes, if too many are thrown down at once. Thus, by degrees, getting all in, they return home; and after their arrival, every man has his share proportioned to his lands; and what remains under the number ten is due to the officer, (of whom notice will by and by be taken,) as a part of his yearly salary." Fifth, Borera, about half a league further distant, in nearly the same direction, is in circumference also one mile and a half, and is more fertile, feeding a considerable number of sheep. It would feed even more of these animals, did not the solan geese pluck a large share of the grass for their nests. This rock is likewise very steep and inaccessible; having St. Kilda itself, as already mentioned, is one vast rock, upwards of nine miles in circumference, separated at top into four summits, or mountains, of considerable elevation, and presenting all round a steep wall of rock to the sea, excepting at one point to the south-east, where there is a bay of about half a mile in length, and of an equal breadth, but in which vessels seldom anchor, on account of the generally agitated state of the sea, and the danger of sudden storms. They usually drop anchor outside, at the mouth of the bay. The only landingplace inside the bay is at a rock on the north side, where, in stormy weather, if any of the natives be out fishing or fowling, all the rest on the island, both men and women, congregate to assist those in the boat to come ashore. For this purpose, a rope is fastened to the forepart of the boat, or birlin, as they call it, which those on shore take hold of, in numbers proportioned to the degree of force required, and thus haul the boat through the surge, in harmony with the calls of one of their number, whom they appoint as crier, to warn them all when to pull in concert, or pause for a little to breathe. At the head of the bay, a little sand appears in summer, but is washed off in of place here to mention it, but for that which alone renders it extraordinary in this case, the strength and hardness of the rocks of St. Kilda, which the power of the waters has notwithstanding perforated. We are informed by Martin, that "crystal grows under the rock at the landing-place. This rock," says he, "must be pierced a foot or two deep, before the crystal can be had from the bed of sand, where it lies. The water, at the bottom, is of a black colour. The largest piece is not above four inches long and about two in diameter; each piece sexangular." On the west side of St. Kilda lies a valley, declining towards the sea, with a rivulet in the midst, on each side of which is an ascent of half a mile, and this valley is styled "the Female Warrior's Glen,' on account of a warlike Amazon, who figures in their traditions. In this glen, and near the Female Warrior's house, is an excellent spring, or fountain, at the height of sixty paces above the sea, called Tou-bir-nimberry, which signifies the Well of Qualities or Virtues, "of which," says Martin, "I drank twice, an English quart each time. It was very clear, exceedingly cold, light, and diuretic. I was not able to hold my hand in it above a few minutes, for its coldness. The inhabitants of Harris find it effectual against windy cholics, gravel, and headaches. This well hath a covering of stone," doubtless placed upon it by the Culdees, several of whose cells yet exist in the island, and who, deriving the knowledge from their Druid predecessors, were probably the first to make commonly known the valuable properties of the water. winter by the violence of the waves; for all round the island the sea is very tempestuous, often tumbling and scattering about vast loose masses of rock, which it might naturally be supposed no aqueous force would be capable of moving, as their weight often amounts to upwards of four or five tons. The landing-place is overlooked by a lofty eminence, called the Hill of Oterveaul, on the summit of which lie a large number of loose stones, capable of being discharged by the hand, or other wise, upon the heads of the persons landing; and as the ruins of an old fort called the Down are to be seen on this spot, it is possible that this primitive species of ammunition has more than once been made available, in the times of the ancient sea kings, or much earlier; but the inhabitants have no history or traditions which throw any light upon either. the origin or uses of this ruinous fortification. The outward rocky wall of the island is remarkable for the existence of four large arches, or vaults, formed by the sea having broken a way through the rock of which they are formed, and producing to the eye a curious effect, from the gleaming of the light through such ponderous and dark-looking masses, and the spectacle of sheep and cattle feeding aloft on the enormous roofs that cover them. Two of these arches look to the south, and the other two to the north-west. Similar perforations are to be seen on many parts of the coast of Scotland and its isles, that are most exposed to the violence of those seas, as is also the case on not a few parts of the coast of Ireland; for example, in the Channel, near the entrance to Dublin Bay, where stands the remarkable arched rock called Ireland's Eye; and on the south coast, near the Harbour of Kinsale, where there is a small, steep rocky island, completely cut in two, and presenting a narrow gorge, through which the waters, when agitated, struggle, and foam, and rage most hideously. It is said that once a vessel, driven before the tempest, was thrust directly into the jaws of this yawning cavern; and imagination can scarcely picture to itself a fate more horrible than this must have been. There is also a singular arch of the same kind at Praule's Point, on the southern coast of Devonshire; and the well known Needles at Portland, on the same range of coast, owe their existence and form to the like agency. Indeed, the phenomenon is so common on all the more exposed parts of our shores, that it would perhaps be out Besides the above-mentioned fountain, there are a great many other excellent springs andstreams in the island, useful for the ordinary purposes of life; so that the inhabitants are blessed with abundance of this indispensable element. The localities and names of these, it is needless to particularize; but one of them, at least, possessed of qualities more peculiar than the rest, it would be improper to pass over, both because of the fact itself, and of the illustration it and the before-mentioned medicinal well afford, of the kind providence of God towards his creatures, as well in the remotest and dreariest regions, as in those that are most in the way of human intercourse, and enjoy the sunniest climes and most fruitful soil. At a short distance from where the inhabitants live, a small rivulet descends from the heights, which, says Martin, " serves for washing linen, which it does as well without soap as other water with. Of this we had experience, which was a confirmation of what had been reported to us concerning this water. We searched if, in the brinks, we could discover any fuller's earth, but found none. We discovered some iron ore in several places. This rivulet drops from the mossy ground on the top of the hills." The soil of the island is black or brown earth, mixed with gravel, in the lower parts from half a foot to a foot in depth; but, near the tops of the hills, it deepens to about three feet, and, becoming a pure moss, yields abundance of turf fuel to the inhabitants. The rocks, heated by the sun in summer, render this soil very kindly, and cause it to produce good crops of the grains that are cultivated, as well as excellent pasture for the sheep, goats, cows, and horses. The air of St. Kilda is sharp and wholesome. The hills are often covered with ambient white mists, which, in winter, are forerunners of snow, if they continue on the tops of the hills; and in summer, if only on the tops of the hills, they prognosticate rain when they descend to the valleys, it is a prognostic of excessive heat. The night here, about the time of the summer solstice, exceeds not an hour in length, especially if the season be fair. Then the sun disappears but for a short space, the reflex from the sea being all the time visible. The harvest and winter are liable to great winds and rain, the south-west wind being more annoying than any other. It is commonly observed to blow from the west for the most part of, if not all July. The inhabitants all live together in one little village, or town, at the head of the accessible bay already described; the village being surrounded with four eminences, called hills, which serve as defences from the weather, and are so many amphitheatres, from whence a fair prospect of the ocean and isles may be obtained on a fine day. The number of inhabitants. amounts, at present, to about one hundred, but has at various former times been much greater, and might be increased, without inconvenience, to at least five hundred, were the capabilities of the island for their support made fully available. At the time of Martin's visit, in 1697, they amounted to one hundred and eighty; and, as it is now time to introduce them personally to the reader, we shall here quote the account that gentleman gives of his arrival at the island, premising, for the sake of elucidation, that he visited it in company with Mr. Campbell, the clergyman of Harris, who was sent thither by the proprietor or chief, M'Leod, to whose posterity the island yet belongs, to inquire into and suppress a demoralizing heresy, which a native impostor of the name of Roderick had been able to disseminate among his superstitious, simple-minded countrymen and countrywomen, but chiefly among the latter. Mr. Martin's highly curious narrative of this impostor's pretensions and conduct shall elsewhere be given, it being enough, at present, to mention the object of the visit, to render clear some allusions to it that might otherwise seem needless or inexplicable in the extracts that immediately follow. These extracts comprehend an account of the writer's voyage, from the time of setting out; as, though not strictly relevant, that portion is yet sufficiently replete with characteristic incident and observation to render it worthy of a place where illustration is as much an object as matter-of-fact_detail. W. B. WOMAN. To a woman, I never addressed myself in the language of decency and friendship, without receiving a decent and If I was hungry or friendly answer. thirsty, wet or sick, they did not hesitate, like men, to perform a generous action, in so free and kind a manner, that if Í was dry, I drank the sweetest draught; and if hungry, I ate the coarsest morsel with a double relish.-Mungo Park. FORGIVENESS. WE often wrong ourselves, but we soon forgive ourselves these wrongs, and they do not at all lessen our love to ourselves; and in like manner we should forgive and love our neighbours.-Wilberforce. THINK. WHATSOEVER I do, I would think what will become of it when it is done. If good, I will go on to finish it. If bad, I will either leave off where I am, or not undertake it at all.-Feltham. ENGLISH HISTORY. CHARLES I. Lincoln. THE successes of the king and of the parliament, in the. spring of 1643, were chequered. In March, Waller routed the royalist forces raised by lord Herbert in South Wales, while in the following month Reading surrendered to the earl of Essex. On May 16, sir Ralph Hopton gained a victory at Stratton in Cornwall; but in June Taunton and Bridgewater surrendered to the parliament. The superiority of the king's army, in cavalry, enabled prince Rupert to sweep the country in several directions to a considerable distance from Oxford, levying contributions wherever he went. In one of these marauding expeditions, a skirmish took place, when Hampden, one of the most distinguished characters on the parliamentary side, received a mortal wound in Chalgrove field, near Thame, of which he died in six days; but not till he had strongly urged a more active course than the earl of Essex pursued, to whose irresolution and inactivity the loss of the parliamentarians, on that and other occasions, was chiefly owing. The death of this brave and disinterested patriot caused general sorrow. His last hours were employed in seeking that support which never fails. The royal cause, at this period, advanced in other parts of the kingdom. The earl of Newcastle prevailed in the north, he defeated Fairfax at Atherton Moor, on June 30; and the two Hothams, who had closed Hull against the king, listened to overtures for the surrender of that place; but the design being discovered, they were arrested, and sent to London, where they were executed some months afterwards, as traitors to that parliament, whose cause they had so essentially served, by being the first to stand in open hostile opposition to their king. The forces under Newcastle were extended to the south, so as to occupy Newark, when Cromwell, with a body of cavalry raised in the eastern counties, moved in that direction, and checked the progress of the royalists, by a successful action near Grantham. The earl then advanced in person. After a short struggle, the parliamentarian commanders were obliged to fall back, and the royalists took possession of Lincoln. In the west, the king's generals twice defeated sir William Waller on Roundway Down, near Devizes. In the second action, sir Bevil Granville, one of the most excellent characters among the royalists, was slain. Their success encouraged Rupert to attempt Bristol, which surrendered to him after a siege of three days. Gloucester was then the only strong place remaining in the hands of the parliamentarians in that direction. F |