amongst the northern Indians, when two men like the same woman, to decide the matter by a contest of this kind; and the poor woman, whose inclination is never consulted, is allotted to the strongest

man.

The Indian who first discovered her gained the prize; and whether her preference arose from loveor gratitude is difficult to determine, but she seemed perfectly contented with her husband, and highly pleased with her change of situation.

Whilst we were in the extreme high north latitudes, our appetites increased to an astonishing degree; so that we no longer felt surprise at the eagerness for food shown by the northern tribes. During the whole of our course, to the entrance of the Slave Lake, we saw tokens of Indian encampments; but on our approach, the people generally retreated with precipitation to the woods. They were mostly employed in drying fish for the winter, and were often attended with dogs. The weather varied extremely. One day we were pinched with cold; and, probably, the next, overpowered with the heat. Storms of lightning and thunder were frequent; and on one occasion we were obliged to screen ourselves from the stones hurled in the air like sand, by lying flat on the ground. For a considerable time the nights were so light, that the stars could not be perceived, even after the sun descended below the horizon, which, during our stay amongst the islands in the most northern lake,

never happened; consequently, it was perpetual day-light. Our fare was varied by fish of different kinds, swans, geese, wild-fowl, partridges,. hares, and venison, according to our situation; and we always had plenty of berries of different sorts. We crossed the Slave Lake without any material accident; though the weather was very stormy, and we were frequently obliged to land and gum our canoes.

We fell in, one evening, with a lodge of Knisteneaux Indians. Amongst them one man was very much indisposed, from a superstitious idea that his enemies had thrown medicine at him, which he was firmly persuaded would cause his death. Mr. Franklin assumed the character of a physician, and professed to have an antidote that would effectually cure him. He made him a harmless. mixture, that had such a good effect upon his spirits, that he perfectly recovered.

After so long a voyage, and so many fatigues, we joyfully entered the Lake of the Hills, across which we were speedily wafted by a fair wind to Chepewyan, where we found our former acquaintance in good health, and well pleased at our return. Our voyage being concluded, my journal closes, with the assurance that I ever am, most affectionately, your's,

ARTHUR MIDDLETON.

LETTER

LETTER XLIII.

Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edwin.

Chepewyan Fort.

MY DEAR BROTHER,

I ONCE more begin my journal at this place, though I shall probably finish it at a great distance; as Mr. Franklin and I are setting off again, with Mr. Roseberry, for a distant expedition to the south-westward. Mr. Roseberry is attracted thither by the hopes of establishing a profitable trade with the tribes that inhabit those parts, and of discovering a passage, westward, to the Pacific Ocean; and we are drawn by the motive that has already led us so long a dance-curiosity. Mr. Franklin says, that though we have seen the principal parts of the United States and Canada, with some of the Indian nations, yet he wishes to have a better acquaintance with those whose manners have not been changed by a communication with Europeans.

I shall write as opportunity and matter invite me. What follows, therefore, will be a recital

of our voyage. We proceeded up the Peace River, along a chain of lakes, the largest of which is the Athabasca, and passed by Peace Point,

which received its name by a of treaty of peace being held there between the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians; as did the Slave River, from the conquests of the Knisteneaux, who drove the inhabitants near Portage la Loche to a distance, and then called them slaves. A fall of twenty feet obliged us to unload our canoes, and carry them and our luggage across a carrying place. The country we had hitherto passed was low, swampy ground, well clothed with wood. The banks of the riverinbetween this place and Mr. Mackenzie's establishment, were generally lofty, and produce cypress, arrow-wood, and thorn trees. On either side of the river, though not within sight of it, are extensive plains, which abound in buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. The Deer Mountain stretches out to the westward; and opposite to the establishment are beautiful meadows, adorned with irregular groves of poplar, and enlivened by herds of various animals. At this place our ears were frequently regaled with the sweet notes of a small bird, not so large as a robin; the neck, breast, and belly of the cock are of a deep scarlet; part of the body is of a delicate fawn colour; the wings are black, edged with fawn, and have two white stripes running across them; the tail is variegated; and the head crowned with a tuft. The hen is of a simple fawn colour, except a tippet of glossy yellow.

The Establishment, or Fort, as these trading houses are called, consists of plain boarded houses,

for

for the accommodation of the traders in winter; and is provided with a garden, that grows turnips, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, and cabbages. It being now the month of December, and the frost so severe that the workmen's axes become as brittle as glass, determined us to halt here for a few weeks. The weather was sometimes extremely stormy: hurricanes of wind, snow, rain, and hail, frequently confined us within the house; a restraint that I found very disagreeable. Several of the natives took up their abode with us, which gaveins an opportunity of observing their customs on particular occasions. A young man, called the Swan, lost his father by an accident. He immediately retired in silence to his lodge, and fired his gun several times, as a notice to his friends, not to intrude upon his retirement, because, from his misfortune, he was grown careless of life. The wife of the deceased expressed her grief by cries and tears, and cutting off her hair. She then took a sharp instrument, and, with determined resolution, separated the nail from one of her fingers, and forced back the flesh beyond the first joint, which she cut off. On expressing my astonishment, she showed me that she had lost the first joint of her two other fingers, as tokens of grief for the death of two of her sons. The men consider it a disgrace to shed tears when they are sober; therefore, they sometimes drink till they are intoxicated, that they may indulge freely in lamentations. The

women