is full of sculptures of the life of Christ; that in the south transept, or Portal des Libraires, near the chapter house, is richly decorated with subjects from the Last Judgment. In the inside are three rose windows, and 130 others, mostly stained, and of the 13th century; and twenty-five side chapels, including the Virgin chapel, in which are Philippe de Champagne's "Adoration of the Shepherds," effigies of Richard I., and the beautiful Renaissance marble tombs of Louis de Brézé (husband of Diana of Poictiers) by J. Goujon, and of Cardinal d'Amboise. The inscription on De Brézé's monument, states that it was erected by his "disconsolate widow, Diana," who, as she had been an "inseparable and ever faithful wife" to his bed, hopes to be such in his grave! The Cardinal's Tomb (of which there is a cast at the Crystal Palace) is a most elaborate profusion of carved pilasters, figures, and arabesque ornaments, and has the two kneeling statues of the Cardinal and his nephew, both archbishops. Several of the early dukes, three kings, and fifteen prelates are buried here. The Palace, behind the Cathedral, was begun 1461, and finished by Cardinal d'Amboise, though altered since. In the Gallery of the States, are four large views by Robert. St. Quen's Abbey Church, near the Hôtel de Ville, is a chef d'œuvre of Gothic art, and one of the most beautiful structures existing. It was begun in 1318, by Abbé Marcdargent, and makes a cross, 443 feet by 83, and 107 feet high to the vault, with flying buttress, and pinnacles; 125 windows, in three rows (stained with the miracles of St. Romain, &c.) and an extremely elegant Tower of the 15th century, 260 feet high to the crown, which rests on a square pinnacled base, and is full of traceried windows and open work. The west front and rose windows stand between small towers, 43 and 54 feet high; this front, after remaining unfinished for three centuries, was completed between 1846-52, from original designs by MM. Gregorie and Desmarets. Rose windows are also seen in the transept; that over the south door (which has a host of figures and carvings), being the work of Berneval, the master sculptor (buried in St. Agnes's chapel), who, they tered pillars. In 1794, this beautiful structure was turned into a factory for fire-arms, and several forges were in full work inside it. What remains of St. Ouen's Abbey (one of the oldest in Normandy) to which the church belonged, is now enclosed in the Hôtel de Ville, which has a simple Corinthian façade, built 1818, and grand staircase, with busts of Louis XV. and the Corneilles. It contains the Musée, founded 1809, with a gallery of French and other pictures (open from 10 till 2), and Caffieri's statue of P. Corneille; and the Bibliothèque (open on Thursdays) of 35,000 volumes, besides 1,200 MSS. from the 11th century. Here are D. d'Aubonne's graduel or missal, with 200 paintings, &c., in it (which took 30 years to fill, is 24 feet long, and weighs 79 pounds), and Bishop Jacques de Lieur's Livre des Fontaines (given 1525), full of arabesques, &c. Of other churches (14 being left out of 37) there are-St. Maclou, in Rue Malpalu, ranking next to St. Ouen's, and built 1472. It has a finely-carved triple portal, a dome 154 feet high, much stained glass, a good staircase to the organ, &c. St. Patrice, near Boulevard Bouvreuil, built in 1535, in the Renaissance style, cross-shaped, with good stained windows. St. Vincent, in Rue de la Vicomte, in the same style, with a good porch, &c. St. Amand, another Renaissance church, in Rue St. Nicholas, belonged to an abbey, founded 1030, of which a small part is left, covered with wood carvings of abbesses, &c., one of whom was Anne de Souvré (died 1654), whose body was found in 1800, undecayed. St. Romain, near the railway station (rive droite), built 1679, has the granite tomb of its patron saint, whose life is pictured in the dome, &c., besides various stained windows which were saved at the Revolution, from the churches of St. Maur, St. Etienne, and St. Martin, all now turned into magazines, &c. St. Godard, in Rue de l'École, of the 16th century, has the genealogy of Christ in one of its stained windows, and a painting by Letellier, Poussin's nephew. At St. Eloi's (near the poultry market and Theatre Français), a church used by the Protestants since 1803, there was a well in the choir, with an iron chain to it, which gave rise to a proverb, current here, "It is as old as the well rope of St. Eloi.” In Rue Chasselièvre, in the north-west outskirts, is St. Gervais's church, with a very ancient crypt. It was attached to the abbey in which William the Conqueror died. Near St. Lo's, behind the Palais de Justice, traces of the Roman wall were found in the 18th century. St. Nicaise, built 1388, and St. Vivien, are not far behind St. Ouen's. St. Hilaire is near the Rue de Darnetal. St. Paul's stands on the Cour de Pais, near the river side, and includes a fragment of the former one in its sacristy. St. Sever's, in the midst of that faubourg, is in Rue d'Elbœuf. In this part also are St. Yon's Asile des Aliénés (Lunatic Asylum), on a large scale. The new Jardin des Plantes is open daily. A large well-regulated abattoir, or slaughter-house, in the Rue de Sotteville, was built in 1835. The Circus is at the Tivoli Normand. A caserne, or barrack for cavalry, is on the site of Bonne Nouvelle Priory, founded by the Conqueror's queen, and burnt and rebuilt in 1665; and a foot barrack, in Place St. Sever, near the bridge, in what was an immense salt store. A third barrack is that of A short turn leads into the Place de la Pucelle, so called after the unfortunate Maid of Orléans, who was burnt at the stake on a spot now marked by a fountain and a ridiculous bronze of her, by Bonet. Opposite it is an excellent subject for the artist and antiquary, an old house, called Hôtel du Bourg-Theroude, in the mixed Gothic and Italian style of the 15th century, with a turret hanging over the front, and, in the court, various carvings and bas-reliefs of the Field of the Cloth of Gold (see Ardres), and other subjects. Shrewsbury (the the French call him "Scherosbery "), Elizabeth's ambassador to Henry IV., was lodged here. The Rue de la Grosse Horloge, is so called from the Gothic Clock Tower, dated 1389-98, (the great bell which still sounds the couvre-feu, or curfew, is a century later). It is ascended by 200 steps; is joined to part of the old Hôtel de Ville, built 1527, and has, on the fountain, bas-reliefs of Arethusa and Alpheus, which the people take for "Le Bon Homme Rouen," the "founder" of the town. A little further, in Rue des Carmes, near Martinville, built in 1776, in front of the Champ the cathedral, are, the half Gothic Bureau des de Mars. The Hôtel de Préfecture stands in Rue de Fontenelle, so called after the philosopher, whose birthplace (marked "Fontenelle est né dans cette maison, le 11 Fevrier, 1657,") is a little distance off, in the Rue des Bons Enfans; while that of his uncle, the dramatist, is close by the Préfecture, in the Rue de la Pie (marked "Ici est né, le 9 Juin, 1606, Pierre Corneille.") The door, which some English amateur wished to buy, is placed at the Rouen Museum. The next house to it was inhabited by Thomas Corneille, his brother, to whom the author of the "Cid," used to apply for a rhyme when in difficulty. On the Quai du Havre are the Douane, or Custom House, the Bourse (Exchange), and Tribunal de Commerce, in a building called the Consuls (opposite Boieldieu's statue), which contains a hall, with a Christ, by Vandyke, and two pictures by Lemonnier, a native of Rouen. Here, too, is the Théâtre des Arts, near the bridge, having an Ionic front, with a medallion of the "Grand Corneille." The Théâtre Français, built in 1793, is in the Vieux Marché (or Old Market Place), the oldest in the city, where the scaffold is erected. Finances, built 1509, decorated with arabesques, and the écu de France, supported by porcupines; and the old Chambres dès Comptes, built 1525, by Francis I. In the Rue aux Juifs (Jew-street), is one of the most beautiful things in Rouen, the Palais de Justice, opposite the Neuf Marché (New Market), a low-pitched Gothic structure, built 1493-9, by Louis XII.'s minister, Cardinal d'Amboise, for the ancient Echiquier or provincial States, and lately restored. The front, towards the court, is 212 feet long, with pinnacled windows in the roof, and an octagon tower in the middle; a staircase, built 1607, leads to the Salle des Procureurs, 181 feet by 53, having a woodwork ceiling, compared to the frame of a ship. In Rue du Grand Maulevrier is the College, first built for the Jesuits, by Cardinal de Joyeuse, whose tomb is in the chapel, which Catherine de Medicis added, 1614. Behind is the Seminary for priests. Between Rues Caquerel and Cavilles is the Bicêtre, or House of Correction; and nearer the Boulevard Martinville, the general Hospice, or asylum, an extensive pile, where 2,000 orphans and poor people are kept. At the opposite side of the town, in Rue de Lecat, is the great hospital for the sick, the Hôtel Dieu, or Madeleine, built 1749-56, having 600 beds, and a chapel, built 1781, with a dome, a Corinthian portico, and two pictures by Vincent. At or close to the site of Basse Vielle Tour (near the Quai de Paris), where they say John murdered his nephew Arthur, are the three Halles, or market halls (328 feet long) for corn, linen, cotton tissues, and checks, called Rouenneries, &c., which offer a very lively appearance on Wednesday, between six an twelve. To the west is the old Fontaine de Lisieux, built 1518; another, the Fontaine-de-laCrosse, at the top of Rue des Carmes, has many arabesque ornaments about it; the Fontaine de Croix-de-Pierre, is in Rue St. Hilaire: altogether there are 38 fountains, fed from four different sources. Of eight open places for markets, that for butter is at Rougemar (in Rue Bourglabbé), where Duke Richard, in 949, beat the French and Germans; the Boulingrin (bowling green), in Bouvoisine Boulevard is used for the sale of horses. The road here leads up to the churches of Longpaon and Carville, and Leveillé's spinning works, Darnetal. Near the Champs de Foire (Fair Field), the site of the old palace built by Henry V., is the tower of Mal-s'y-frotte (which means, "He meddled for the worst ") lying on this side of the spot where William Long-sword, son of Rollo, routed the people of Cotentin. Two towers, called Donjon and Gascon, in Rue de la Glacière, are left of Philippe Auguste's château, built 1205, and afterwards turned into an Ursuline convent. Many local antiquities and elics, including Coeur-de-Lion's heart, in a box, are preserved in the departmental Museum, at the old convent of St. Marie, in Rue de Poussin, besides a collection of natural history: open Tuesday and Thursday, from twelve to three. Old carved houses may be noticed in Grande Rue (Nos. 115, 120, &c.), Rue du Change, Rue Eloupée (No. 4), the house of Jouvenet, the painter, and many more. On Sapins hill is the Cimitière Monumental; there are six others, one being for Protestants. Ecoles de Natation, or swimming schools, on Iles Lacroix and Petit Gay. Besides the Corneilles and Fontenelle, Rouen claims as natives, Benserade, the poet; Jouvenet, Restoul, and Géricault, the painters; Boieldieu, the composer; Count Mollier, Napoléon's minister of finance; Armand Carrel; and Louis Brune, who saved the lives of more than sixty persons: on his house you read this memorial from his townsmen, "A Louis Brune, la Ville de Rouen." Its manufactures are the cotton Rouenneries already mentioned, calicoes, prints, linen, thread, flannels, cloth, soap, chemicals, steam engines, leather, refined sugar, confitures of great fame, &c.; and it is an entrepôt for wine and spirits, grain, salt fish, spices, dyewoods, cotton, wool, hemp, slate, iron, tar, &c. The shipping and foreign trade are about one-third that of Havre. By improvements made latterly in the navigation of the Seine, a large American vessel, the Mary Ann, laden with cotton, &c., from New Orleans, was, in 1852, able to reach the city-the first direct importation of the kind. Conveyances: By rail, to Fécamp, Paris, Dieppe, Havre, Elbœuf, Pont-Audemer, Gisors, Beauvais, and Amiens. Steamer to Elbœuf. [The line to Amiens, 73 miles long, passes Monterollier-Buchy, where the chord line from Cléres, &c., comes in. Then; Forges-les-Eaux, near the intersection of this line with the direct line from Paris to Dieppe, and so called because of its mineral waters, in a valley near the Forest of Bray, which are drunk from July to September; are clear and sparkling, with a temperature of 43°, and have an excellent tonic quality. Anne of Austria took them before the birth of Louis XIV.; and after her, Louis XIII., and Richelieu, they were named la Reinette, la Royale, and la Cardinale. Hotel. Du Mouton d'Or (Golden Sheep or Fleece). Then come Poix and Amiens, where lines may be taken to Arras and Tergnier (49 miles).] Leaving Rouen, by rail, we cross to Sotteville and its factory chimneys and workshops; then comes St. Etienne de Rouvray, and the forest in which William the Conqueror was hunting when he first heard of the death of Edward the Confessor. The next station is Oissel (9 miles), which has a church with a tall tower and spire. Population, 3,480. Thence across the Seine by a narrow viaduct on six arches, each 98 feet span, to Tourville (mile), where is a branch rail of five miles to Elbœuf. The total fall of the railway from Paris to this station is 91 feet. [The branch rail passes the Seine, close to a sus pension bridge over a bend of the river, and Elbœuf, a thriving town of 25,700 souls, among Hotels.-Le Boeuf d'Or (Golden Bull); Lion d'Or.] A tunnel 1,140 feet long leads to the next station. Pont-de-l'Arche (34 miles) to the south, across the Seine, here spanned by a long 22-arch bridge, to which it owes its name, is a pretty place, in Ouche district, in Upper Normandy, and was built and fortified 354, by Charles the Bold, who held two councils there. Its high-roofed Church has a spire and buttresses, with stained glass of the 14th century. A house stands in the middle of the bridge, near an island, on which it rests, once covered by a fort. Behind the village stretches a large forest. Coaches to Charleval, Fleury, St. Andelle, La Forêt, Pont St. Pierre. At Villers, where N. Poussin, the painter, was born, 1594, is a tunnel 5,643 feet long, cut through in 17 months; another at Venables, 1,410 feet long. The river makes several islands here. At Manoir, on the north side of the Seine, opposite the Eure's mouth, the railway crosses by a viaduct of six arches, each 98 feet span. [From Pont-de-l'Arche a branch rail of 54 miles to Gisors, on the direct Paris and Dieppe line, passes by Romilly (miles), or Romilly St. Andelle, and Fleury, on the same line, 6 miles further up, Lieur, near the remains of the abbey church of Mortemer, founded by Henry II. of England. The other stations towards Gisors are Menesqueville, Saussay, and Etrepagny.] St. Pierre-du-Vouvray (8 miles), near Praslin Park, Igoville, André, and other châteaux. A branch rail to Louviers; thence by coach to Beaumont-le-Roger, Neubourg, Bernay (see Route 11). Evreux is 22 kil. beyond Louviers in the same Route. [Louviers (5 miles south-west by rail), a souspréfecture of 11,000 inhabitants, chiefly weavers of fine cloth, and an ancient town in the rich plain of the Eure, where Richard I. and Philippe Auguste made a treaty, 1196. It was taken by Edward III., and again by Henry V., who dismantled it, except a small part of the walls. An old Church of the 12th century, partly Norman in its style; a Knight Templar's house of the 12th century, and timber houses (in the old town) are seen; besides several factories, dye-works, a bibliothèque, salle-de-spectacle, three bridges, &c. A line from here to Dreux (p. 67) is part of the Outer Circle, designed to save travellres the necessity of going on to Paris when travelling south.] Gaillon (9 miles), 2 kil. west of the rail, in a fine spot, has a House of Correction, on the site of the château of the Rouen archbishops, built about 1262, burnt by the English, and restored in the Renaissance style of the 16th century, by Cardinal d'Amboise, but finally ruined at the Revolution. Its gate is now placed in the Palais des Beaux Arts, in Paris, and a painting of it is at the primate's palace at Rouen. Part of the beautiful park remains. It was a favourite retreat of Francis I. This is the most northerly place in France for wine, a poor sort, from a small black grape. Near this is the Château de Navarre, built by Jeanne of Navarre, 1532, and rebuilt 1686, by Mansard, for the Ducs de Bouillon, and for a time the seat of the Empress Josephine. Grisolle and Rotoirs are also near, and Abloville, where Marmontel died. [COURCELLES is across the river. At 10 kil. north of it, at the suspension bridge, on a bend of the Seine, is LES ANDELYS, a sous-préfecture of 5,900 souls, near Château Galliard, a fine picturesque ruin, on a peak, built 1197, in defiance of Philip Augustus (galliard, means careless or saucy), by Richard Coeur de Lion, at Petit Andely, to command the river, and dismantled by Henry IV. The vicious Margaret de Bourgogne was strangled here, 1315, by order of Louis X.; and Cardinal Balue shut up his victim, Charles de Mellieu, in it. At the hospital, founded by the Duc de Penthièvre, is a plaster figure of St. Main, against which mothers rub their children to cure them of colic. Grand Andely, on the Gambon, further inland, and an older place, grew out of a monastery called Andelicum, founded by Clothilde, and burnt 1170, by the English. Near the curious old chapel, called after her (now a vinegar work), is her fountain, into which sick persons and newborn infants are plunged. The half Gothic church has a good portal, stained windows, and Lesueur's "Jesus in the Temple." At the Hôtel de Ville is Poussin's Coriolanus." Blanchard, the æronaut, was a native; Henry IV.'s father, Antoine de Bourbon, died here, 1552, of a wound received at the siege of Rouen; T. Corneille had a house here in which he died. Sir I. K. Brunel, the constructor of the Thames Tunnel, was born at Hacqueville, in this neighbourhood. Cloth is made, and pèches d'ablettes, for false pearls, are caught. Hotels.-Du Grand Cerf (Stag); Des Trois Rois (Three Kings).] Vernon (8 miles), belonged to the Norman ancestor of the Vernons, of Kinderton, in England. It stands in a fine hollow, at the 22-arched bridge Vernonnet; as a frontier town of Normandy, it was fortified by Henry II., and frequently suffered in the wars with France. An old tower, built by Henry II., remains; also a good Gothic church (Nôtre Dame) having a carved black marble tomb; and St. Just's hospital, or Hôtel Dieu, founded by St. Louis, and rebuilt 1776, by the Duc de Penthièvre. It has, besides, an artillery depôt, and a small salle de spectacle. To the west is the charming Park, and Château de Bisy, which belonged to the Orléans family. A tower at Vernonnet, is called Julius Cæsar's; the Château de la Madeline was the seat of Casimir Delavigne, the poet. Population. 7,400. Hotel.-Grand Cerf (Stag). From Pacy-sur-Eure (see page 43) a branch line is opened via Vernon (distant 20 kil.), Gasny, Bordeaux St. Clare, &c., to Gisors. Coach to Baugon, Corbie, &c. [Gisors (23 miles north-east), on the Epte, at the junction of lines to Pontoise, Gournay, and Pont-de-l'Arche; having the keep and other remains of a feudal Castle, begun by William the Conqueror and Henry I. (who received Pope Calixtus here, 1120), and finished by Henry II. (who met Philippe Auguste here, 1188, about a new crusade). Philippe Auguste fled hither on his defeat by Richard I., at Courcelles, 1198, and was nearly drowned by the falling of the bridge. It was at this battle that Richard chose "Dieu et Mon Droit" for his motto. The town walls and moats are now turned into promenades. A Gothic church of the 15th century, has a well-carved Renaissance portal, a jubé and marble figure by Goujon, and stained windows. St. Paer's tower, of the 13th century, is outside. Population, 3,700. Hotels.-Du Bras d'Or (Golden Arm); De l'Écu (Crown Piece). Further down, across the river, in the forest of Vernon, are Pressagny, called l'Orgueilleux (the Proud), though it has not much to be proud of, and Port-Mort, where Louis VIII. married Blanche de Castile. The Seine is crowded with pretty islands here.] Leaving Vernon, a skew bridge and a massive embankment are passed. Near Port Villey (opposite the Epte's mouth, not far from Camp de Cæsar), you leave the province of Normandy and department Eure, to enter the department of Seine-Inféri eure. The next station is Bonnières (6 miles), where a branch to the Caen and Cherbourg line turns off. (See Route 11.) [At 7 kil. north, on the bend made by the Seine, here crossed by a handsome suspension bridge, is La Roche Guyon, with the Norman tower and chapel of an old castle, taken by the English, 1418; below which is the more modern seat of the Rochefoucaulds, where they show the bed, portrait, and furniture of Henry IV. Here Francis de Bourbon was killed, by a box thrown on his head, 1545.] Next to Bonnières is a tunnel, 8,682 feet long, |