The only cure for this fungus seems to be by taking them up, washing the roots quite clean from every particle of soil, and then replanting them in quite a different part of the ground.

Red plants are said to be more liable to mildew than any other, Red is, indeed, supposed by some always to indicate a morbid action, as it shows that the plant is unable to absorb carbonic acid gas from the atmosphere, which is necessary to its perfect health; at all events, it is a proof of disease when leaves, or any other parts of a plant, not naturally red, assume that colour. Experiments have been made for curing, or at least preventing the spread of the internal mildew; and steeping grains of corn in lime-water has been found to produce the desired effect. There appears no cure for mildew in the roots, but by cutting a deep trench round the infected plants, and cutting off all communication between them and the rest of the field.

ON THE ADVANTAGES OF USING COW-WASH IN THE GROWTH OF VEGETABLES.

Some of our readers may not altogether be aware of the benefits to be derived from the use of cow-wash in the growth of vegetables. The market gardeners in the vicinity of Glasgow use it in great quantities, which they procure from cow feeders in the city, at the rate of per barrel, (a common herring barrel.) and I can from observation vouch for its efficacy. Cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, celery and asparagus, thrive amazingly with it, and I have applied it myself to gooseberries, currants, raspberries, &c. with excellent effect. They apply it after this manner: a little earth is drawn round the stem of the plant or tree in the form of a basin, into which the liquid is poured. If it be dry, hot weather this is done in the evening, but if the weather be moist it may be done at any time. When this has been performed two or three times, the plants are earthed up, and receive no more of it. They apply it to their asparagus beds at any time from the beginning of March to the beginning of April. Their celery is planted on ridges five feet wide, in rows across the ridge, at twelve inches from row to row. Before planting they flood the ridge with the wash, having previously dug the bed with a little manure. Nothing answers better than this wash for turnips. I have seen most excellent crops when no other manure was used. The ground for this purpose was well soaked with it during winter. To try the experiment I dug a plot of ground without giving it any manure; one half of this I watered with the wash previous to sowing, and the other half was sown without; the difference was very great; the part watered bore turnips of a fine clear skin and colour, and at least a third larger than the unwatered land. Any of your readers who wish to excel in growing vegetables may stir up a small quantity of cow-dung with the wash, and if applied when the plants are in a growing state, I hesitate not to say it will answer their highest expectations: this I speak from experience, as cauliflowers, cabbages, and gooseberries, which have obtained the prizes, I have watered with my own hands. I am satisfied, if farmers in this country were to have a barrel sunk in one corner of their cow-house, and the wash drained into it, and with a water-pot or other means, apply it to their land in moist weather, they would find their labour would not be lost. D.

HONOURABLE NATURE OF FARMING.

MR. EDITOR-I have been much pleased with your sentiments on the dignity of the Farmer's calling, which you have frequenly expressed in your columns. I have three sons, who are of the ages when young men begin to look forward into life, with a view of making choice of a profession. Mine are evidently inclined to almost any pursuit but that of farming,

from an impression that it is not as honourable as many others. One wishes to be a doctor; another feels inclined to go to London and become a clerk; and the third thinks the law alone is suitable to his ideas of that consequence and importance to which he hopes to arrive. Now, all this, Mr. Editor, is directly contrary to my wishes. I have a farm of upwards of 500 acres, and am desirous of dividing it into portions for my sons, as soon as they arrive at a suitable age. I could thus, under the ordinary blessings of Providence, make ample and sure provision for them-could have the pleasure in my declining years, of seeing my children comfortably situated, and pursuing a calling that naturally leads to many of those virtues and habits on which much of the happiness of life depends. With all my persuasion, I had not been able to give them any impression of the respectability of an agricultural vocation, until I, the other day, borrowed the numbers of the current volume of your magazine. These numbers of your paper have accomplished more in the few days they have been in my house, than I have done by all my persuasion for years. I send you my subscription for the work, and desire you will send it to me from the beginning of this year, and if it should be the means of causing my sons to look upon farming as one of the most useful and respectable pursuits in which intelligent and well educated youth can be engaged, I shall think you are entitled to half of my farm. Yours. &c. S. M. REMARKS.-We hope S. M. will not forget us in his "last will and testament." We would be willing, however, to take up with one fifth of his farm deeded to us now.

INSECTS IN PEAS.

THE pea is universally esteemed one of the most palatable of our vegetables. At its first appearance in the markets it commands a high price; and its first appearance on the table is not only an object of pride to the gardener, but of pleasure to the partaker. Few, however, while indulging in the luxury of early peas, are aware how many insects they unconsciously consume. When the pods are carefully examined, small, discoloured spots may be seen within them, each one corresponding to a similar spot on the opposite pea. If this spot in the pea be opened, a minute, whitish grub or maggot will be discovered. It is the insect in its larva form, which lives upon the marrow of the pea, and arrives at its full size by the time that the pea becomes dry. It then bores a round hole quite to the hull, which, however, is left untouched, as is also the germ of the future sprout. In this hole the insect passes the pupa state, and survives the winter; at the expiration of which, its last change being completed, it has only to gnaw through the thin hull, and make its exit, which frequently is not accomplished before the peas are committed to the ground for an early crop. Peas, thus affected, are denominated buggy by seedsmen and gardeners: and the little insects so often seen within them in the spring, are incorrectly called bugs, a term of reproach, indiscriminately applied to many kinds of insects which have no resemblance to each other in appearance and habits. The pea Bruchus Pisi, for such is its correct name, is a small beetle, a native of America, having been unknown in Europe before the discovery of the western continent. Early in the spring, while the pods are young and tender, and the peas are just beginning to swell, it makes small perforations in the epidermis or thin skin of the pod, and deposits in each a minute egg. These eggs are always placed opposite to the peas, and the grubs when hatched, soon penetrate the pod and bury themselves in the peas by holes so fine that they are hardly perceptible, and are soon closed. Sometimes every pea in a pod will be found to be thus inhabited; and the injury done by the pea Bruchus has, in former times, been so great and universal as nearly to put an end to the cultivation of this vegetable. That it should prefer the prolific exotic pea to our indigenous, but

less productive pulse, is not a matter of surprise, analogous facts being of common occurrence; but that for so many years a rational method for checking its ravages should not have been practised is somewhat remarkable. An exceedingly simple one has been recommended, but to be successful should be universally adopted. It consists merely in keeping seed peas in tight vessels over one year before planting them. Lafreille recommends submitting them to the heat of water at 67 degrees of Fahrenheit, by which the same results might be obtained; and if this was done just before the peas were to be put into the ground, they would then be in a state for immediate planting. The Oriole, or hang-bird, is one of the natural enemies of the Bruchus, whose larvæ it detects, picks from the green peas and devours. How wonderful is the instinct of this bird, which, untaught by experience, can detect the lurking culprit within the envelope of the pod and pea; and how much more wonderful that of the insect; for, as the welfare of its future progeny depends upon the succession of peas the ensuing season, the rostellum or sprout of the pea is never injured by the larva, and consequently the pulse will germinate, though deprived of a third of its substance.

HYMN TO THE FLOWERS.

DAY-STARS! that ope your eyes with man, to twinkle
From rainbow galaxies of earth's creation,
And dew drops on her holy altars sprinkle
As a libation.

Ye matin worshippers! who bending lowly
Before the uprisen sun, God's lidless eye,
Throw from your chalices a sweet and holy
Incense on high.

Ye bright Mosiacs! that with storied beauty
The floor of nature's temple tesselate,
With numerous emblems of instructive duty
Your forms create!

'Neath cloistered boughs, each floral bell that swingeth,
And tolls its perfume on the passing air,
Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth

A call to prayer;

Not to the domes where crumbling arch and column
Attest the feebleness of mortal hand,
But to that fane most Catholic and solemn,
Which God hath plann'd.

To that cathedral, boundless as our wonder,
Whose quenchless lamps the sun and moon supply;
Its choir the winds and waves-its organ thunder-
Its dome the sky.

There, as in solitude and shade I wander,

Through the green aisles, or stretch'd upon the sod,
Awed by the silence, reverently ponder
The ways of God.

Your voiceless lips, O flowers! are living preachers,
Each cup a pulpit, each leaf a book,
Supplying to my fancy numerous teachers
From loneliest nook.

Floral apostles! that, in dewy splendour,
"Weep without woe, and blush without a crime,"
O may I deeply learn and ne'er surrender
Your lore sublime!

"Thou wert not, Solomon! in all thy glory,
Arrayed," the lillies cry, "in robes like ours;
How vain your grandeur! ah, how transitory
Are human flowers!"

In the sweet scented pictures, heavenly Artist!
With which thou paintest nature's wide-spread hall,
What a delightful lesson thou impartest
Of love to all!

Posthumous glories! angel-like collection!
Upraised from seed or bulb interred in earth
Ye are to me a type of resurrection,
And second birth.

Were I, O God! in churchless lands remaining,
Far from all voice of teachers and divines,
My soul would find, in flowers of thy ordaining,
Priests, sermons, shrines !

WHEAT STRAW FOR POTATOES.

139

IF, when the corn has been twice worked over and the ground is very wet, directly after a hard rain, the surface of the ground be covered tolerable thick with wheat straw, it will be apt to produce a very fine crop without farther work, and the year after it will produce an abundant crop; this however is a busy part of the season, when we have little time to spare.

The best use I have ever made of wheat straw, and I think it the most profitable use that can probably be made of it, is as follows: and although this way of using it is not new, yet many have not tried it.

The ground being well broke up, run it off in rows of the usual width, just sufficiently deep to cover the Irish potatoes, plant them as usual, and cover them. Now cover the ground with straw about three feet deep, and if the straw will not hold out to cover them all this deep the deficiency may be made up with leaves. In this way the potatoes may be planted very early. It is known that when potatoes are bitten by frost, they never do well. In this way, however early they are planted, they will seldom come through the straw before the danger of frost is over. If they should, however, all that is necessary is to cover them over as they come out with more straw or leaves; the ground being covered three feet with straw, a kind of hot or forcing bed is produced, and although the tops do not come through the straw, yet they are growing finely a long time before they would grow if planted in the common way. Once planted, they require no working or further trouble; the produce is astonishing; those who have not tried could not believe that such a bountiful crop could be made with so little labour. They can be taken away as required, there being no danger of their remaining as they are till planting time perfectly sound. I have noticed in taking up a whole square of them to plant, that I did not see one unsound potato. It is a common opinion that potatoes will not do well unless the plantingpotatoes are brought from the north. Seed-potatoes planted in the common way I have no experience of, but if planted and saved as directed above, we can make and save as good potatoes at home, either for planting or eating, as any part of the world can. Many believe that whole potatoes do better when planted than cut potatoes. I have tried this several times, both planted as usual and with straw. I have planted one row with the largest whole ones I could find, and another row of potatoes cut very small: the tops of the whole potato will grow very large, but I never could distinguish much if any difference in the produce. I have thought the rows of cut potatoes best, but the appearance was so small that I do not feel certain. It matters not how close the tops of plants are, so that the roots have sufficient distance. I believe if the potatoes were planted as directed and covered one foot with straw, that another crop might then be planted and covered another foot: and another crop planted and again covered a foot or so, so as to produce three crops on the same ground; however thick the tops might be, the roots would all be separated and not interfere with each other. I have not tried it, but I have this fact to support such an opinion: I was planting a large patch of potatoes and one of my boys stole a parcel; when the work was done I carried all the hands with me to a distant field; the fellow found his potatoes troublesome, yet had no way to dispose of them, and as he passed by a shuck pen stopped and pushed his potatoes between the rails into the shucks, where

he forgot them; as this pen of shucks was not wanted, remained there without being noticed; oue day, in riding by it, I was astonished to find the finest potatoe tops growing from between the rails, between two and three feet from the ground, with nothing but the shucks to grow in-this is worth trying.

Now although we have, by thus employing our wheat straw, made the largest crop of potatoes with the least labour, yet we have only got part of the benefit to be derived from the straw. When all the potatoes are removed, if all the straw was also taken away, the ground, from being so long covered, will be found rich. The quantity of straw on the ground, after taking up the potatoes, is so great that it cannot be ploughed; one half or more should be carted away; this might be used to cover another crop of potatoes.-Dr. Hasden in the Southern Planter.

TO CHECK THE EXUBERANT GROWTH OF WOOD AND CAUSE IT TO PRODUCE FRUIT-BUDS, FLOWERS, AND FRUIT.-BY W. G.

I SHALL assume that the trees are of well-known kinds, and whose bearing qualities have been tested, and that they are situated in an open and well cultivated ground, as I believe the whole complaint can be made under no other circumstances. The trees have also been well pruned, and are accommodated with a good shaped head for bearing, and of fair size. My answer is, Lay your ground, on which your trees stand, well down to grass, and let it remain so for several years. The next year after seeding the ground, the growth of young wood will be much diminished, and fruit-buds will form in moderate quantities; flowers and fruit will follow the next season. That year, if the tree be an annual bearer, an increased number of fruit-buds will be found, and so continue in annual succession. If, after a few years, the tree is too stationary in its growth, for it certainly will not throw out young wood very rapidly, plough, and cultivate, and manure the land, and you can supply the trees with any amount of young wood required, although the bearing will still continue in an abated degree. If you find your trees get too thrifty, you have only to seed down again, and manage as circumstances may require.

MR. FELLENBERG'S ESTABLISHMENT AT HOFWYL THE establishment at Hofwyl, near Berne, was invented, and is conducted at the sole expense of M. Fellenberg, and was founded in 1809. His object was to apply a sounder system of education to the great body of the people, in order to stop the progress of error and corruption. He undertook to systematize education, and to show on a large scale how children of the poor might best be taught, and their labour at the same time most profitably applied; in short, how the first twenty years of a poor man's life might be so employed as to provide both for his support and education. The peasants in the neighborhood were at first rather shy at trusting their children for a new experiment; and being obliged to take his pupils where he could find them, many of the earliest were sons of vagrants, and literally picked up in the highways: this was the case in some of the most distinguished pupils. Their treatment is nearly that of children under the paternal roof. They go out every morning to their work soon after sunrise, having first breakfasted and received a lesson of half an hour they return at noon. Dinner takes them half an hour; a lesson of one hour follows; then to their work again till six in the evening. On Sunday the different lessons take six hours instead of two, and they have butcher's meat on that day only. They are divided into three classes, according to age and strength; an entry is made in a book every night of

the number of hours each class has worked, specifying the sort of labour done, in order that it may be charged to the proper account, each particular crop having an account opened for it, as well as every new building, the live stock, the machines, the schools themselves, &c. &c. In winter, and whenever there is not out-of-door work, the boys plait straw for chairs, make baskets, saw logs with the cross-saw and split them, thrash and winnow corn, grind colours, knit stockings, or assist the wheelwright and other artificers, of whom there are many employed in this establishment. For all which different sorts of labour an adequate salary is credited to each boy's class.

The education of the boys consists chiefly in inculcating habits of industry, frugality, veracity, docility, and mutual kindness, by means of good example rather than precept; and above all, by the absence of bad example. It has been said of the Bell and Lancaster schools, that the good they do is mostly negative: they take children out of the streets, employ them in a harmless sort of mental sport two or three hours in a day, exercise their understanding gently and pleasantly, and accustom them to order and rule without compulsion. Now what these schools undertake to do for a few hours of each week, during one or two years of a boy's life, the School of Industry, at Hofwyl does incessantly, during the whole course of his youth; providing, at the same time, for his whole physical maintenance at a very cheap rate.

-efo

ON THE CAULIFLOWER.

CAULIFLOWERS, by the skill of the gardener, are continued for several months together; but the most common season for the great crop is in May, June, and July. We shall therefore begin with directions for obtaining them in this season.

Having procured a parcel of good seed, of an early kind, you must sow it about the twenty-first of August, upon an old cucumber or melon-bed, sifting a little earth over the seeds, about a quarter of an inch thick; and if the weather should prove extremely hot and dry, you should shade the bed with mats, to prevent the earth from drying too fast, which would endanger the spoiling your seed; and give it gentle waterings, as you may see occasion. In about a week's time your plants will appear above ground, when you must take off your coverings by degrees, but do not expose them too much to the open sun at first. In about a month's time after sowing, your plants will be fit to prick out; you should therefore put some fresh earth upon your old cucumber or melon-beds; or where these are not to be had, some beds should be made with a little new dung, which should be trodden down close, to prevent the worms from getting through it; but it should not be hot dung which would be hurtful to the plants at this season, espe cially if it proves very hot; into this bed you should prick your young plants, at about two inches square, observing to shade and water them at first planting; but do not water them too much after they are growing, nor suffer them to receive too much rain, if the season should prove wet, which would be apt to make them black shanked (as the gardeners term it), which is no less than a rottenness in their stems, and is the destruction of the plants so affected.

In this bed they should continue till about the 30th of October, when they must be removed into the place where they are to remain during the winter season, which, for the first sowing, is commonly under bell or hand-glasses, to have early cauliflowers, and these should be of an early kind: but in order to have a succession during the season, you should be provided with another more late kind, which should be sown four or five days after the other, and managed as was directed for them.

In order to have very early Cauliflowers, you should make choice of a good rich spot of ground, that is well defended from the north, east, and west winds, with hedges, pales, or walls; but the first is to be preferred, if made with reeds,

because the winds will fall dead in these, and not reverberate as by pales or walls. This ground should be well trenched, burying therein a good quantity of rotten dung; then level your ground, and if it be naturally a wet soil, you should raise it up in beds about two feet and a half, or three feet broad, and four inches above the level of the ground; but if your ground is moderately dry, you need not raise it at all: then set your plants, allowing about two feet six inches distance from glass to glass, in the rows, always putting two good plants under each glass, which may be at about four inches from each other; and if you design them for a full crop, they may be three feet and a half, row from row: but if you intend to make ridges for cucumbers or melons between the rows of cauliflower plants (as is generally practised by the gardeners near London) you must then make your rows eight feet asunder.

When you have set your plants, if the ground is very dry, you should give them a little water, and then set your glasses over them, which may remain close down upon them, until they have taken root, which will be in about a week or ten days' time; unless there should be a kindly shower of rain, in which case you may set off the glasses, that the plants may receive the benefit of it; and in about ten days after planting, you should be provided with a parcel of forked sticks or bricks, with which you should raise your glasses about three or four inches on the side toward the south, that your plants may have free air. In this manner your glasses should remain over the plants night and day, unless in frosty weather, when you should set them down as close as possible: or, if the weather should prove very warm, which many times happens in November and sometimes in December; in this case, you should keep, the glasses off in the day-time, and put them on only in the night, lest, by keeping the glasses over them too much, you should draw them into flower at that season, which is many times the case in mild winters, especially if unskilfully managed.

Toward the latter end of February, if the weather proves mild, you should prepare another good spot of ground, to remove some of the plants into from under the glasses, and, after making choice of one of the most promising plants under each glass, which should remain, take away the other plant, by raising it up with a trowel, so as to preserve as much earth to the root as possible; but have a great regard to the plant that is to remain, not to disturb or prejudice its roots; then set your plants which you have taken out, at the distance before directed, viz. if for a full crop, three feet and a half, row from row; but if for ridges of cucumbers between them, eight feet, and two feet four inches distance in rows: then with a small hoe, draw the earth up to the stems of the plants which were left under the glasses, taking great care not to let the earth fall into their hearts; and set your glasses over them again, raising your props an inch or two higher than before, to give them more air, observing to take them off whenever there may be some gentle showers, which will greatly refresh the plants.

If your plants have succeeded well, toward the end of April some of them will begin to produce; you must therefore look over them carefully every other day, and when you see white stalk, which is commonly called the flower, plainly appear, you must break down some of the inner leaves over it, to guard it from the sun, which would make it yellow and unsightly, if exposed thereto; and when you find it at its full bigness (which you may know by its outside parting, as if it would run), you must then draw the plant out of the ground, and not cut it off leaving the stalks in the ground, as is by some practised; and if they are designed for present use, you may cut them out of their leaves; but if designed to keep, you should preserve their leaves about them, and put them into a cool place: the best time for pulling them is in a morning, before the sun has exhaled the moisture; for cauliflowers, pulled in the heat of the day, lose that firmness which they naturally have, and become tough.

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But to return to our second crop (the plants being raised and managed as was directed for the early crop, until the end of October); you must then prepare some beds, either to be covered with glass frames, or arched over with hoops, to be covered with mats, &c. These beds should have some dung laid at the bottom, about six inches or a foot thick, according to the size of your plants; for if they are small, the bed should be thicker of dung, to bring them forward, and vice versa : this dung should be beat down close with a fork, in order to prevent the worms from finding their way through it; then lay some good fresh earth about four or five inches thick thereon, in which you should set your plants about two inches and a half square, observing to shade and water them until they have taken fresh root; but be sure do not keep your coverings close, for the warmth of the dung will occasion a great damp in the bed, which, if pent in, will injure the plants.

When your plants have taken root, you must give them as much free air as possible, by keeping the glasses off in the day time as much as the weather will permit; and in the night, or at such times as the glasses require to be kept on, raise them up with bricks or other props to let in fresh air, unless in frosty weather; at which time the glasses should be covered with mats, straw, and pease-haulm, &c. but this is not to be done except in very hard frosts: you must also observe to guard them against great rain, which in winter time is very hurtful to them; but in mild weather if the glasses are kept on, they should be propped to admit fresh air; and if the under leaves grow yellow and decay, be sure to pick them off, for if the weather should prove very bad in winter, so that you should be obliged to keep them close covered for two or three days together, as it sometimes happens, these decayed leaves will render the inclosed air very noxious: and the plants perspiring pretty much at that time, are often destroyed in vast quantities.

In the beginning of February, if the weather proves mild, you must begin to harden your plants by degrees, that they may be prepared for transplantation; and the ground where you intend to plant your cauliflowers out to remain (which should be quite open from trees, &c. and rather moist than dry) having been well dunged and dug, should be sown with radishes a week or fortnight before you intend to plant out your cauliflowers; the reason why I mention the sowing of radishes particularly, is this, viz. that if there are not some radishes amongst them, and the month of May should prove hot and dry, as it sometimes happens, the fly will seize your cauliflowers, and eat their leaves full of holes, to their prejudice, and sometimes to their destruction; whereas, if there are radishes upon the spot, the flies will take to them, and never meddle with the cauliflowers so long as they last. Indeed, the gardeners near London mix spinach with their radish seed, and so have a double crop, which is an advantage where ground is dear, or where persons are straitened for room: otherwise it is very well to have only one crop amongst the cauliflowers, that the ground may be cleared in time.

Your ground being ready, and the season good, about the middle or end of February, you may begin to plant out your cauliflowers: the distance which is generally allowed by the gardeners near London (who plant other crops between their cauliflowers to succeed them, as cucumbers for pickling, and winter cabbages) is every other row four feet and a half apart, and the intermediate rows two feet and a half, and two feet two inches distance in the rows; so that in the latter end of May, or beginning of June, when the radishes and spinach are cleared off, they put in seeds of cucumbers for pickling, in the middle of the wide rows, at three feet and a half apart; and in the narrow rows, plant cabbages for winter use, at two feet two inches distance, so that these stand each of them exactly in the middle of the square between four cauliflower plants; and these, after the cauliflowers are gone off. will have full room to grow, and the crop be hereby continued in a succession through the whole season.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PRIMULA PALLASIANA.

PALLAS'S PRIMROSE.

(Siberian.)

Pentandria Monogynia.

Primulaceæ.

Gen. Char.-Capsule one-celled; corolla funnel-shaped, pervious at the orifice; stigma globose.

Spec. Char.-Leaves wrinkled, lobed.

This species of primrose bears a great affinity to P. farinosa, in its inflorescence, the colour of its flowers, and solitary scape, which rises to an unusual height, but the leaves differ in form, colour, and mode of growth; when fully grown they are twice the length of those of the other; they are not mealy-the nuder side being as green as the upper-and they have a greater tendency to grow upright.

In the winter it loses its leaves entirely, and forms a sort of bulbous hybernacle under ground; this circumstance is the more necessary to be known, as it subjects the plant to be thrown away as dead.

This charming plant, though a native of so cold a climate, seems with difficulty to endure the severity of ours-thriving best in a pot, under any slight shelter, or a very dry situation if planted out.

It is increased by the root, which should be parted in March, and flowers in June and July.

PLATYLOBIUM FORMOSUM.
LARGE-FLOWERED FLAT PEA.

Diadelphia Decandria.
Leguminosa.

Gen. Char.-Calyx bracteate, two-lipped-upper lip round, large, bifid; stamens all united; legume stalked, compressed, winged at back, many seeded.

Spec. Char.-Cordate, ovate; ovary hairy.

Stem shrubby, 4 feet high. Branches opposite, round, roughish, covered with leaves, and ornamented with numerous flowers. Leaves opposite, on very short hairy footstalks, cordate, ovate, entire, revolute, acute with a minute spine at the end, very veiny, rigid, of a beautiful green, glaucous beneath. Stipules in pairs, lanceolate, brown, membranous, striated, smooth. Flowers solitary, from the axils of the uppermost leaves, opposite, on short hairy peduncles. Bracteas several, at the base of the peduncles, ovate, concave, hairy, and two at top, immediately under the flower, somewhat longer. Calyx very hairy. Standard of the corolla orange colour, striated almost half way to the edge with beautiful radiant crimson lines, from a pale yellow spot at the base; wings deep yellow; keel whitish, tipped with rich crimson. Pod an inch and a half long, and half as broad.

The seeds of this plant having been among the first of those imported from Botany Bay, seedlings have been raised, and the plants have grown up and flowered in most collections of greenhouse plants about town; an opportunity has been thus afforded of ascertaining its beauty, and it must be confessed there are few papilionaceous flowers more haudsome, the buds in particular are inexpressibly rich in colour, these are produced from June to August, but are rarely succeeded by ripe seeds in this country.

In raising this species, recourse is generally had to foreign seeds, for cuttings are not easily struck; great difficulty also attends the rearing the seedlings, as they are very apt to go off when young, when they advance in size they generally grow more freely; we have observed the plant to succeed very well with some, while others scarcely have been able to keep it alive.

SEMPERVIVUM GLOBIFERUM,

GLOBULAR HOUSELEEK.
Dodecandria Dodecagynia.

Semperviveæ.

Calyx divided into twelve parts. Corolla with twelve petals, which are united at the base, pale yellow, hairy, ciliate, long and slender. Stamens balf the length of the petals. Capsules smooth.

The offsets are globular, their leaves turning inward at the top, and lying close over each other; these are thrown off from between the larger heads, and, falling on the ground, take root, whereby it propagates very fast.

This plant, being a native of Russia and Germany, is perfectly hardy, easily bearing our winters in any dry situation.

Like most succulent plants, it grows best in a dry light soil, such as loam mixed with lime, rubbish, &c.

FUMARIA CAVA. HOLLOW-ROOTED FUMITORY.

Diadelphia Hexandria.

Fumariaceæ.

Gen. Char.-Calyx two-leaved; corolla ringent: filaments two, membranaceous, with two anthers on each.

Spec. Char.-Stem simple; bracteas the length of the flowers. The hollow-rooted Fumitory differs from the solida, and that. constantly in a variety of particulars; its root is always, as far as we have observed, hollow, appearing sometimes, as Parkinson informs us, "like a shell, every part of which when broken will grow;" frequently acquiring a very great size: the plant itself usually grows to twice the height of the solida, bearing foliage and flowers proportionably large; its bracteæ or floral leaves which in the solida assume a kind of fingered appearance from the manner in which they are divided, in this are entire, or but slightly indented; it flowers also about three weeks earlier.

Of the Fumaria cava there are three principal varieties in point of colour, viz., the white, the blush-coloured, and the purple, which, though plentiful in our gardens formerly, are now rarely met with. Mr. Chappelow informs us, that he lately fonndthem in an old plantation at Teddington, where they produced the most pleasing effect.

It begins to flower in March and continues in bloom three weeks or a month, rarely produces any seed, so that it is to be propagated only by dividing its roots; it is a hardy herbaceous plant, a native of Germany, and will grow in almost any soil, provided it be planted in a shady situation.

LYSIMACHIA BULBIFERA.
BULB-BEARING LYSIMACHIA.
Pentandria Monogynia.

Primulaceæ.

Gen. Char.-Corolla rotate; capsule globose, mucronate, tenvalved.

Spec. Char.-Racemes terminating; petals subverging; stamens shorter than the corolla; leaves lanceolate, petioled.

Stem erect, four-cornered, smooth. Leaves quite entire, acute, smooth, dotted. Racemes simple. Pedicels in a sort of whorl, filiform, an inch long. Bracteas very short, lanceolate. Divisions of the calyx lanceolate, smooth, dotted with red. Petals three times as long as the calyx, yellow with red stripes and dots, and two dark red spots. Stamens shorter than the corolla.

DIANELLE CERULEA.

BLUE DIANELLA.

Hexandria Monogynia.
Asphodeliæ.

Gen. Char.-Calyx none; petals 6, spreading, tumid at the top; berry of 3 cells, with many seeds.

Spec. Char.-Leaves with rough edges and keel; panicle scarcely subdivided; flower-stalks aggregate.

This plant is a native of New Holland, and succeeds well in the greenhouse.

It begins flowering about the month of May, and continues in blossom the greatest part of the summer. The leaves are about half an inch broad, sheathing, grassy. Flowers deep blue,

Is readily increased by parting its roots in the spring, and should be planted in pots filled with loam and peat earth.