in size only by the Beardmore and Axel Heiberg glaciers in Antarctica. The combined length of the Seward-Malaspina system is eighty miles. On the Coast side of the range the glaciers descend practically to sea level, the Malaspina having an ocean frontage of some sixty miles.

Towards the interior, the glaciers are smaller, the limit of the ice being about 2,000 feet, with timber line at 3,500 to 4,000 feet. The Logan-Chitina system, from the foot of the Chitina glacier to the watershed at the northeast base of Mt. Logan, is fifty miles in length; from this point, the ice stream is thought to flow eastward to the Kuskowalsh river and Kluane lake, but has not been explored.

Mt. Logan being situated in Canadian territory, the expedition which recently undertook its ascent was sponsored by the Alpine. Club of Canada. It is recognized, however, that the project could not have been carried out except by the active support of mountaineers on both sides of the border. The American Alpine Club and American members of the Alpine Club of Canada contributed largely to the expenses of the expedition, and four of the six men who ultimately reached the summit were Americans.

The Canadian government was represented on the expedition by Mr. H. F. Lambert, of the Geodetic Survey, who was connected with the Alaska-Yukon Boundary survey throughout its work and was largely responsible for the actual mapping of Mt. Logan; the government also contributed the services of a naturalist, Mr. Hamilton M. Laing, who did not, however, accompany the expedition on the mountain. The other members of the party were Messrs. A. H. MacCarthy, leader of the expedition, W. W. Foster, Norman H. Read, Robert M. Morgan, H. S. Hall and the writer, in addition to Andrew Taylor, an experienced Alaskan packer and outfitter, who accompanied the expedition on the entire ascent and contributed greatly to the success of the undertaking.

As noted in a previous issue of the Bulletin, a reconnaissance was made by Mr. MacCarthy and two companions in 1924, and caches were put in during the winter to facilitate the approach over the lower glaciers. Andrew Taylor, Miles Atkinson, Henry Olsen and A. E. Trim, all of McCarthy, in addition to Mr. MacCarthy, deserve credit for this work. The proposed route has also been previously outlined, and need not be repeated here.

The main party, with two additional local men' and ten pack horses, left the railhead at McCarthy, Alaska, on May 12, 1925. Proceeding across country by way of the Nizina river and Young creek, the main Chitina valley was entered on the third day. The valley floor, which ranges from 1,400 feet at the mouth of the Tana to about 2,200 feet at the foot of the Chitina glacier, is a gravel plain several miles in width, bounded by wooded slopes, a landscape differing in scale rather than in character from the familiar mountain valleys of the Canadian Rockies. The streams were low and no difficulty was experienced in fording Canyon creek, Hawkins and Short rivers, three large tributaries to the upper Chitina which may give serious trouble at a later season. May 17 brought us to an old cabin, known as "Hubrick's Camp," just below the broad, moraine-covered snout of the Chitina glacier which forms a lowering barrier across the entire width of the valley. Here we had our first sight of Mt. Logan, still fifty miles distant.

"Hubrick's" serves as a sort of base before entering upon the long journey across the ice. Surplus articles were stored and packs made up for foot transport. Various supplies not included. in the caches, together with tents, bedding, photographic and personal equipment, brought the weights to around seventy pounds for most members of the party. The next day the horses carried our loads a few miles further along the right margin of the Chitina glacier, to a point about opposite its confluence with the Logan, and on May 19, after a short delay due to rain and fog, we set out across the moraine. The pack train returned from this point, Laing accompanying it as far as "Hubrick's," where he remained until our return.

The first day's march was nearly straight across the Chitina glacier, a distance of perhaps four miles, with many ups and downs, to the point of land between it and the Logan glacier (foot of Chitina Mtn.). Far up the Chitina we could see the beautiful snow-clad peak of Mt. Lucania (17,150 feet). Only in the center of the glacier were there two parallel strips of clear ice, the rest being covered with enormous moraine piles which made the crossing with packs very arduous. The next night we camped below the Walsh glacier, opposite the mouth of the Baldwin, at the site from which D. J. Fraser and Asa Baldwin started their great 'Pete Brandwick and Harry Boyden.

march to Mt. St. Elias in 1913. This was to be our last camp on land until July 4. From here we struck out into the center of the glacier, at last getting somewhat clear of the rough terminal area, and made a long march to just below the Eaton glacier, where two Yukon sleds, snow shoes, Primus stoves and gasoline had been cached. Starting with these early on May 23, in order to make progress while the snow remained frozen, we succeeded in reaching the next cache, on a surface moraine just within the mouth of the Ogilvie glacier, at 4 P. M.; but the sleds were loaded to nearly 500 lbs. each and the last few miles, crossing moraine ridges and in soft snow, were almost beyond our strength. During this day we crossed the International Boundary into Yukon Territory.

The main cache of supplies had been placed about half-way up the Ogilvie glacier, near the mouth of the Mussell glacier. This we reached on May 25, and set ourselves to the task of relaying the major part of the cache to the head of the Ogilvie glacier, whence a steep, lateral ice-fall leads up towards the trench between Mt. Logan and King peak (17,130 feet). By May 31, more than 4,000 lbs. of supplies (gross weights) had been moved to the foot of the ice-fall, the entire party established at that point ("Cascade Camp," altitude about 7,800 feet), and a few loads taken on foot to the top of a small rock ridge at one side of the ice-fall, some 950 feet above the camp. Three of the party had also made a reconnaissance beyond this point to an altitude of 10,200 feet at the foot of the King Peak trench, whence a view was obtained as far as the notch at its head (King col). This view confirmed previous impressions regarding the feasibility of the trench as far as King col, but gave little information beyond that point.

An interesting feature was the observation that the drainage of the King Peak trench, shown on the map as going to the Ogilvie glacier by the ice-fall mentioned above, really continues in major part to the Quintino Sella and Columbus glaciers by a long, smooth valley in prolongation of the trench; this could probably be reached from the Fraser and Baldwin glaciers and would permit dog-teams to be brought in directly to King col in proper

season.

By dint of many relays, a considerable quantity of supplies and one sled were brought up to the 10,200 foot level at the entrance to the King Peak trench and camp established there on

June 4. This site was known as "Observation Camp," from a small isolated peak at the head of the ice-fall, named "Observation Pk." during the reconnaissance of 1924.' The next day, in snow and wind, we carried packs forward to about 12,900 feet, 1,000 feet short of King col. With clearer weather on June 6, another load was carried to a slightly higher level (nearly 13,500 feet), and the march continued without packs to King col, practically 14,000 feet by barometer. Some of the party continued to a snow-covered shoulder of King peak, nearly 1000 feet higher, whence good views of Mt. Logan as well as of the Seward glacier and the St. Elias range were had.

The lower part of the King Peak trench is smooth and was found suitable for the sled; its upper half is steeper and more broken. It was a matter of some surprise to find that the col itself, far from providing an easy access to the upper slopes of Mt. Logan, breaks off in stupendous cliffs to the Seward glacier and is flanked on the Logan side by spectacular ice-falls overhanging these cliffs and discharging in frequent avalanches to the glacier below. The only prior information regarding this side of Mt. Logan has been the photographic view from the summit of Mt. St. Elias, secured by V. Sella on the occasion of the Duke of Abruzzi's ascent of that mountain in 1897. In this view, the col is masked by the above-mentioned shoulder of King peak, which in turn merges into the background of Mt. Logan so as to suggest a smooth snow connection which has no existence in fact.

On June 8, camp was established just below King col, at an altitude of 13,875 feet by barometer, MacCarthy, Read and Foster passing the night there with a view of reconnoitering the crucial ice slopes above the col on the morrow. They found snow conditions most favorable, with a hard crust suitable for crampons, and in spite of a late start were able to reach an altitude of about 16,000 feet, whence a clear slope leads up to a secondary summit something under 19,000 feet high, at the edge of the great summit plateau of Mt. Logan. A route was staked out through the intricate crevasses and ice formations above the col.

The other members of the party continued the relaying of supplies from "Observation Camp," and on June 13, the outfit was consolidated at King col. A heavy snow storm had prevailed since June 10. On June 14, following a night temperature of -10° F., 'First climbed by Andrew Taylor at that time.