V.

CHAP. thrusting a stick among them, sparks were even then glowing throughout the heap; and a piece of wood, being left there, became charred. The heat in those vaulted chambers, where the corn had been destroyed, was still very great.

The next morning we arose as soon as light appeared, in order to bathe once more, and take a last survey of the town. Although, from several circumstances, we were convinced that the antient city stood upon the site of the modern, it is very probable that it occupied a greater extent of territory', particularly towards the south, where there are remains of buildings. Some authors mention a temple', called ANAEKAOPONON, erected upon the spot where it was believed our SAVIOUR miraculously fed the multitude; and other edifices, of which no trace is now remaining. The most singular circumstance concerning Tiberias is mentioned by Boniface3: he describes the city as not being

(1) Quaresmius mentions a gate of black and white marble on its western side; describing the city as of a square form, and saying of it, "Non multum antiqua est, et veteri Tiberiade multò minor: hanc enim longè majorem istá fuisse circumjacentes magnæ ruinæ, et maximè procedendo ad duo milliaria meridiem versùs, non obscurè demonstrant.” Elucid. Terr. Sanct. lib. vii. cap. 4. tom. II. p. 864. Ant. 1639.

(2) Nicephorus, lib. viii. cap. 30, &c.

(3) Bonifacius de Perenni Cultu Terræ Sanctæ, lib. ii.

V.

habitable, on account of the multitude of ser- CHAP. pents. This has not been stated by any other author; neither did any observation made by us upon the spot, with regard to the natural history of the country, serve to explain the origin of this misrepresentation; the more remarkable, as it is affirmed by one who resided in the Holy Land'; and whose writings. are frequently quoted by authors towards the end of the sixteenth and the beginning of the seventeenth centuries. Tiberias at present is Population much inhabited; principally by Jews, who are said to be the descendants of families resident there in the time of our SAVIOUR: they are perhaps a remnant of refugees who fled hither after the capture of Jerusalem by the Romans. The Christian inhabitants of this town are, however, also numerous: of this we were convinced, by the multitude we saw coming from the morning service of the church.

of Tiberias.

(4) "Tiberias civitas omninò inhabitabilis est, propter serpentum multitudinem." Ib.

(5) He was superior of a monastery at Mount Sion in Jerusalem, and afterwards advanced to an episcopal see in Italy. Vid. Quaresm. Eluc. tom. I. lib. 5. c. 13.

THE HOLY LAND-TIBERIAS TO NAPOLOSE.

Departure from Tiberias-Effect of the Climate-Productions of the Desert-Lubi-State of the CountryMount Thabor-Change of Route-Narrow Escape of the Author-Camp of Djezzar's Cavalry-Wars of the Arabs-Their Manners and Disposition-Address of an Arab to his Mare-SIMOOм, or Wind of the DesertBread baked in the Sun's Rays-Emir of the Mountains -Plain of Esdraelon-Encampments-Jennin-Effect produced by Change of Government-Santorri-Antient Castle-Napolose or SICHEM-Reception by the Governor-Aspect and State of the City-Its various Appellations-

Appellations-Circumstances connected with its antient History-Tomb of Joseph-Tomb of Joshua-Nature of those Relics-Samaritans-Jacob's Well.

WE
E were on horseback by six o'clock on CHAP.
Monday morning, July the sixth, notwith-

VI.

from Tibe

standing our excursion, and continued our route. Leaving Tiberias, we took a different Departure road from that by which we came, and crossed rias. an extensive valley, hoping to visit Mount Thabor. In this valley, three hundred French cavalry defeated an army of ten thousand Turks; an event so astonishing, even to the Turks themselves, that they considered the victory as obtained by magic; an art which they believe many of the Franks to possess.

Climate.

All the pleasure of travelling, at this season Effect of of the year, in the Holy Land, is done away by the excessive heat of the sun. A traveller, wearied and spiritless, is often more subdued at the beginning than at the end of his day's journey. Many rare plants and curious minerals invite his notice, as he passes slowly along, with depressed looks fixed upon the ground; but these it is impossible for him to obtain. It appears to him to be an act of unjustifiable cruelty to ask a servant, or even one of the

VI.

Produc

tions of the Desert.

CHAP. attending Arabs, to descend from his horse, for the purpose of collecting either the one or the other. All nature seems to droop; almost every animal seeks for shade, which it is extremely difficult to find. But the chamæleon, the lizard, the serpent, and all sorts of beetles, basking, even at noon, upon rocks and in sandy places, exposed to the most scorching rays, seem to rejoice in the greatest heat in which it is possible to exist. This is also the case in Egypt, where no desert is so solitary but reptiles and insects may be observed; proving that the ostrich, and other birds found there, are by no means, as some writers have maintained, at a loss for food. It is more probable that the desert offers to them nourishment they could not easily procure elsewhere. A very interesting volume of natural history might be made, relating only to the inhabitants of the Desert: they are much more numerous than is commonly believed: and if to these were added the plants which thrive only in such a situation, with an account of those extraordinary petrifactions found in the African deserts; the various jaspers, and other siliceous concretions abounding in the sandy tract between the Red Sea and the Nile, as well as all over Arabia Petræa and Mauritania; the description would be truly marvellous. The enterprise