CHAP. city; the abolition of the Mosaical dispensation; the total overthrow and dispersion of the Jews; these constitute all together an EXISTING MIRACLE, perplexing the sceptic with incontestable proof of the divine origin of our religion. Phocas believed the whole space surrounding this building to be the antient area of the temple'; and Gulius, in, his Notes upon the Astronomy of Alferganes, says, the whole foundation of the original edifice remained'. As to the mosque itself, there is no building at Jerusalem that can be compared with it, either in beauty or riches. The lofty Saracenic pomp so nobly displayed in the style of the building; its numerous arcades; its capacious dome, with all the stately decorations of the place; its extensive area, paved and variegated with the choicest marbles; the extreme neatness observed in every (1) Ἐν τῷ ἀρχαίῳ δαπέδῳ τοῦ περιωνύμου ναοῦ ἐκείνου τοῦ Σολομῶντος θεωροῦσ pesvos. And again, in another part of the same chapter, "Eğer dè tou ναοῦ ἐστι περιαύλιον μέγα λιθόστρωτον τὸ παλαιὸν, ὡς οἶμαι, τοῦ μεγάλου ναοῦ dúradov. Phocæ Descript. T. S. cap. 14. Colon. 1653. (2) Alferganes, Alfragan, or Alfergani, flourished about the year 800, of our æra. Golius, Professor of Mathematics at Leyden, published the third and best translation of his writings, in 1669. See Lalande's Astronomy, tom. I. p. 122. Paris, 1792. (3) "Totum antiqui sacri fundum." (4) Ἐντὸς καὶ ἐκτὸς, ποικίλοις μαρμάροις, καὶ ψηφῖσιν ἐγκαλλυνόμενος. "Intus exteriusque variis marmoribus, et tessellato opere condecoratum." Phocæ Descript. T, S. cap. 14. Colon. 1656, p. 22. Leonis Allatii ZTMMIKTA. VIII. avenue towards it; and, lastly, the sumptuous CHAP. costume observable in the dresses of all the Eastern devotees, passing to and from the Sanctuary, make it altogether one of the finest sights the Moslems have to boast. Armenian We afterwards visited the Greek and Armenian Greek and convents. The former consists of many sepa- Convents. rate establishments, which, although small, are well supported. The Armenian Monastery is well worth seeing, bein the largest in Jerusalem: it is maintained in a degree of splendour, accompanied at the same time with neatness, cleanliness, and order, which are very remarkable in this part of the world; and particularly so, because every thing belonging to it is Oriental. The Patriarch makes his appearance in a flowing vest of silk instead of a Monkish habit, and every thing around him bears the character of Eastern magnificence. He receives his visitors in regal stateliness; sitting amidst clouds of incense, and regaling them with all the luxuries of a Persian Court. We conversed with him for some time, and were much struck with his polished manners and his sensible conversation. He seemed to be quite as well aware of what was passing in the Western world, as if he had regularly received the Gazettes of Europe, and VIII. CHAP. had himself figured in the Cabinets of its Princes'. The approaching downfall of the Turkish empire is an event which of course every reflecting mind must contemplate with eager anticipation; and every means conducive to this end is hailed as an instrument in the hand of God. Whether the armies of France or the fleets of England occasion signs of its approximation, the universal Church of Syria, howsoever distributed and divided by sects-Armenians, Georgians, Greeks, Abyssinians, Copts, Nestorians, Catholics, Syrians, Druses, Maronites,-together with all distinctions of Jewish worshippers-Samaritans, Karaites, Rabbinists,—are ready to bestow upon them their praises and their blessings. Thus, if a Frenchman arrive in Jerusalem, they talk to him of the victories of Buonaparté, and the prowess of Frenchmen in the Holy Land, as if they were preaching for a new Crusade. If an Englishman, they lavish commendations and benedictions upon the heroes of the British Navy; dwelling with enthusiasm upon the exploits of Nelson at Aboukir, upon those of Sir Sidney Smith at Acre, and upon the glorious fate of the lamented Abercrombie. (1) A monk at the Convent of St. Saba, near the Dead Sea, began to reveal to Mons. De Châteaubriand "the secrets of the Court of Russia." See Trav. vol. I. pp. 405, 406. Lond. 1811. (2) As in the recent instance of De Châteaubriand. THE HOLY LAND.-JERUSALEM, TO BETHLEHEM, JAFFA, AND ACRE. Journey to Bethlehem - Singular Example of Dexterity 1 - in a Goat Rachel CHAP. Journey to Rachel-Caverns-Terebinthine Vale-Valley of Jere- IX. WHEN We had seen all, and much more than is worth notice, in Jerusalem; and had obtained from the Superior of the Franciscan Monastery the usual Certificate given to pilgrims', of the different places we had visited in the Holy Bethlehem. Land; we prepared for our departure. The worthy Friars, who had treated us with very great attention, finding that we were determined to go to Bethlehem, where the plague then raged with fatal violence, told us, with expressions of regret, that they could not again receive us, if we persisted in our intention. We therefore took leave of them, resolved at all events to see the place of our SAVIOUR'S nativity, and then continue our journey to Jaffa, without entering Jerusalem in our return. Singular dexterity of a Goat. Upon our road, we met an Arab with a goat, which he led about the country for exhibition, in " (1) This Certificate entitles persons of the Greek Church to the title of Hadgi. It is a curious document, and has therefore been preserved for the Appendix to this volume. |