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CHAPTER X. SMYRNA AND EPHESUS.

Education and Missions-Polycarp's Confession and Tomb-

How Brigands Ply Their Vocation-John's Letter to Smyrna-
Paul's Prayer.

The Gift of the River-Tribute to Turkey and Under the Con-

trol of England-A Holy War Suggested-The Suez Canal.

CHAPTER XVI. ITALY: PEOPLE, ART AND RELIGION... 219

Naples and Vesuvius-Messina and the Disaster-Rome:

Churches, and Ruins-Florence: Art and Romance-Pisa and Its
Leaning Tower-Venice, a City in the Sea.

Three Continents and Many Countries Visited-Excursions in

Spain, Greece, the Holy Land, Egypt and Italy Lasting Friend-
ships formed.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Mediterranean, Bird's-eye View of the....Frontispiece

Palermo, Sicily, View of..

Jaffa Harbor....

Funchal, Madeira.

Funchal, Toboggan Slide.

Azore Islands, Native Costume.

Granada, Street Scene in..

Ponta Delgada, A Garden in..

Gibraltar, Rock of..

Granada, The Generaliffe Near the Alhambra.

Granada, The Alhambra..

Seville, Garden of the Alcazar.

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Athens, Mars' Hill, Where Paul Preached.

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Constantinople, The Imperial Palace.
Smyrna, American Collegiate Institute.
Smyrna, At Tomb of Polycarp...
Ephesus, Gateway of St. John's Church.

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Jerusalem, Gethsemane and Its Keeper.
Jerusalem, Damascus Gate...

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Nile, Sailing on the..

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Cairo, An Egyptian Woman.

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Pyramids, Climbing the....

Sphinx and the Pyramids, The..

Cairo, Seti I. in the Museum of.

Naples and Vesuvius, Bay of..
Naples, Street Scene in..
Sicily, A Sicilian Cart..

Messina Before the Earthquake.

Messina, Ruins of..

Messina, The New..

Rome, The Appian Way.

Rome, St. Peter's..

Florence, The Campanile.

Florence on Holy Saturday.

Fiesole, Near Florence.

Pisa, Leaning Tower and Cathedral.

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THE

CLASSIC MEDITERRANEAN

CHAPTER

ITS ROMANCE AND HISTORY

NOBLY, nobly Cape Saint Vincent to the northwest died away;
Sunset ran, one glorious blood-red, reeking into Cadiz Bay;

Bluish 'mid burning water, full in face Trafalgar lay;

In the dimmest northeast distance dawned Gibraltar grand and gray:
"Here and here did England help me-how can I help England?" say,
Whoso turns as I, this evening, turn to God to praise and pray,
While Jove's planet rises yonder, silent over Africa.

-ROBERT BROWNING.

O be known as the school of the human race is

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an honor possible for only one place on earth. Dr. J. S. Howson, an English scholar of renown, has given this distinction to the Mediterranean Sea. Another Englishman, Dr. Samuel Johnson, declares that the grand object of traveling is to see the shores of the Mediterranean, on which have rested the four great empires of the world: the Assyrian, the Persian, the Grecian and the Roman. He maintains that all of our religion, nearly all of our law, the majority of our arts, almost all that sets us above savages, have come to us from the shores of the Mediterranean.

"Come and make one of my family party; in all your life you will never, probably, have a chance

again to see so much in so short a time. Considerit is as easy as a journey to Paris and Baden.”

With such an invitation William Makepeace Thackeray tells us in his delightful travel story under the title of "The Notes of a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo," how he joined an excursion to Mediterranean ports in the fall of 1844. In thirty-six hours after accepting the invitation he was ready for his journey, which occupied two months. His experiences along the coast of Spain, at Lisbon and Cadiz, and in the Mediterranean at Gibraltar, Algiers, Malta, Athens, Constantinople, Smyrna, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Alexandria and Cairo, lose nothing from the fact that they were recorded some seventy years ago. Many of them could not be duplicated at the present time; a few of them it would be better not to repeat.

And what is the Sea over which the great English writer sailed so pleasantly in the Forties of the last century, and of which so many of his admirers have delightful memories in the opening decades of the present century? "The Sea within the Land" is the literal meaning of the word Mediterranean. To the Hebrews it was "The Great Sea"; the Romans called it "Our Sea." The prayer of Wordsworth, expressed

in a sonnet when Sir Walter Scott went from Abbotsford to Naples, gives it another name:

"Be true,

Ye winds of ocean and the Midland Sea,
Wafting your charge to safe Parthenope."

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