224 MISSIONARY COLLEGE FOR CHINESE-TEMPLE OF BUDHU. was somewhat larger than life, gilt all over, crosslegged, and in a sitting posture, the usual attitude of Budhu. A net was suspended over the head, which hid the temples. The sanctuary was not more than six feet square; and within it were contrivances for lamps, and urns for incensesticks. The door could scarcely be opened wide enough to admit a full-grown person. Beyond this, within another enclosure, stands an elegant minaret, on a square basement, of which each side measures fifteen feet, This structure consists of six steps, or stories, gracefully diminishing upward. On the topmost of these stands a column thirty feet high, most curiously and lavishly ornamented, especially towards the capital, about which a multitude of bells are A small iron rod, supporting a years of age, was drawn by a buffalo in a cart, Feb. 15. We called at a Roman Catholic college, in a sequestered spot called Pulo Tekos, or the Island of Rats. Here a number of Chinese youths are trained up for Missionaries to their parent country. Eighteen such, from fifteen to twenty years of age, are at this time on the foundation. We found them all reading Latin. The padres informed us that their church has 300,000 good Catholics in China, principally in the province of Fokien. The priests there have to carry on their work with great secrecy in propagating the faith. Yet there have been put to death within the last ten years two of them, for having entered too precipitately upon their duties, before they had obtained leave from government. How they obtain leave at all is a question not easily answered; but it is quite certain that there is a remnant of popery in the heart of China, which neither emperor nor priest has yet found a pretence to cast out. The expense of that unique mission is defrayed from Europe. Nor far from Pulo Tekos stands a Siamese temple, in a grove of cocoa-nut trees. Calling upon the chief priest, a very old man, we found him in a yellow silk dress, wound like a scarf about his body, from the left shoulder, hanging down on the right side, and braced with a sash about the middle. His house was very dirty, though quite a pantheon of his country's divinities. Here were idols of all shapes (intended to be human), and all sizes, from two inches to two feet; of silver, marble, wood, and several of them richly gilt; some sitting, some standing, like the Hindoo and Budhu images. He afterwards courteously accompanied us to the temple, himself taking the lead, as we approached under a covered way to the house of the great idol, before which, the instant when he had opened the door, he threw himself prostrate. As we entered he rose up, and, hastening to a great bell which was suspended on one side of the pathway, he gave it a smart blow with the clapper; then went to another bell on the contrary side, and did the same-to prepare his god, we presume, for the reception of the strangers who were come to visit him. The image vane, crowns the whole. Near these edifices are several graves, with monuments over them, manifesting much reverence for the dead, with equal good taste and good feeling in the living. In a building raised only a few feet above the level of the ground, and open at the sides, are hung two pictures, from seven to eight feet long by three broad. One of these, portraying a future state of happiness, has certainly no attractions either for this world or the next. Several ill-drawn figures are all grouped in the same attitude, “where | fixed in dumb stupidity they stare." The other, which exhibits the pains of a heathen hell, makes amends for the neutral tint of the former, and almost compels the spectators to exclaim, "O horrible-horrible! most horrible!" Pregnant women (adulteresses) are represented as suffering the most unheard-of tortures. A liar is stretched upon his back, while a fiend is tearing out his tongue. One wretch attempts to escape through a hole in the wall, but meets a fellow on the other side, who drives him back with a ponderous maul. A cauldron filled with human skulls is placed upon a fire composed of human bodies, from every limb of which flames are bursting forth. These are but samples of the infernal diversities of torments, the most excruciating, which are crowded in detail upon the dreadful canvass-the inventions of some Siamese Danté, equalling, at least in atrocity, the sternest fictions of the Italian poet. Feb. 18. Mr. Beighton introduced us to his Majesty the King of Queda, who lives next door to him. Queda is a considerable province of the peninsula of Malacca, where this petty sovereign reigned, as a vassal of the King of Siam, till the latter expelled him from his throne about three years ago, for neglecting to pay the customary tribute. Seeking refuge under the British government at Pinang, he has been hospitably treated, and a pension of 500 dollars a month settled on him. He received us with great condescension; and after we had taken coffee with him, to do us a kindness, as he imagined, his dancers were ordered to be brought in for our entertainment. These were three little girls, eight or nine years old, who, with no extraordinary grace or science, exhibited a variety of gestures and attitudes, sitting, standing, and moving, which were accompanied by THE GREAT TREE-PERSONAL HABITS OF THE MALAYS. instrumental music, resembling that of Java, and the voices, behind a screen, of other females. His Majesty keeps up sufficient state to make the affectation of it contemptible. The palace (as a royal dwelling must be called) is a kind of harem; all his household (we are informed) being females, and in number nearly two hundred. The ex-king was dressed in ordinary Malay habiliments, and there was nothing in his personal appearance that indicated the pride and fierceness of an eastern despot. A guard of soldiers is allowed him, who attend at the gate of his residence. 225 These, which are exquisitely wrought of grass, have the entrance at the bottom, through a long tube-like, or bottle neck; on one side of the interior is the depository for the eggs. They may be literally called castles in the air. Those which we took belonged to the tailor-bird (motacilla sutoria), and were cunningly hung on a tree, armed at all points with sharp prickles; the politic little builder choosing that in preference to others, as affording her brood the best security from monkeys, who were not very likely to gambol in such a neighbourhood. Feb. 27. The Malays, here and elsewhere, build their houses, or rather hovels, two or three feet above the ground, over brooks, watercourses, or swamps, by preference, for the sake of coolness. These are constructed of bamboos, with open floors and thatched roofs; seldom having windows, and being entered by steps of boards or sticks. Within there is a partition, forming a day and a night room; and on the floor those who can afford such a luxury spread a mat. On this they usually sit crosslegged, though here and there a chair or a bench may be found, as an article extraordinary among their scanty domestic furniture. Living almost entirely upon rice, a pot or a pan, with a fire Feb. 22. Crossing the straits of Pinang, where they are about six miles broad, we landed on that part of the peninsula which is called Queda, a section of which, thirty miles long and three in depth, belongs to the English, having been purchased of the reigning prince in 1786, at the time when Pinang was obtained. Captain Low, who has the command of this settlement, has under him a few Sepoys (native soldiers), and a hundred and twenty convicts, who are employed in making roads. The population, consisting of Chinese, Malays, and Bugis, is estimated at 16,000. This shred of coast is very flat, rising little above the level of the sea, but bounded far inland with mountains of consi-frame, are all their cooking requisites. Both derable elevation. The whole was one wilderness of straggling trees and rank underwood, the haunt of reptiles and wild beasts, till the settlers cleared a few habitable places, which they are gradually enlarging by carrying fire and sword, as it were-the axe and the flamethrough the jungle. Feb. 24. Eight miles south of George Town grows the setomian, or great tree (as it is worthily styled), which attracts the curiosity of all strangers, and is the pride of the natives. It is, beyond comparison, the most beautiful object of the kind which we have yet seen in all our travels. This paragon stands on a steep declivity, facing the east. Five feet from the ground the bole measures ten yards in circumference, and thence, gracefully tapering, ascends to the height of nearly a hundred and twenty feet, before it sends forth branches. Beyond that point, several large ones diverge in various directions, and form a head to the further height of forty feet, not very broad, but towering, under a diadem of verdure, far above all the rank and file of the forest. The stem is perfectly straight, and as shapely as the shaft of a Corinthian column. From the bark, when punctured, exudes a white gum, which dries to the consistency of Indian rubber. On our return we observed several monkeys leaping about from tree to tree, as though they had the power of flight, without wings, through the air-so free and unfearing they seemed to our unaccustomed eyes. By the way-side, however, were sundry traps, set by man, the common enemy of all his fellow-animals, to tempt these nimble denizens of the woods to risk their harlequin liberty for a paltry bait of fruit. To guard against monkeys and serpents in these regions, some birds suspend their nests, like purses, from the extremities of small branches. sexes wear a length of cotton cloth, doubled, and sewed together at the ends like a towel on a roller. This they wrap twice round their loins, and, when long enough, throw one end of it over their shoulders. The men occasionally wear short drawers, a jacket, and a handkerchief, folded like a turban, round their heads; but this is "full dress;" necessity with most, and choice with many, causing them to make much less serve. The women generally cover the upper part of their persons with a loose frock, and, if they are wealthy enough to purchase a shawl of any kind, they fasten a key, or some small matter, to the lower corner, and carry it over one shoulder. Few of either sex use ornaments, probably because they are too poor to afford such superfluities. The women's hair is worn indifferently, either in a knob at the back of the head, or in elf-locks over their shoulders. In general these people are indolent and filthy in their habits, being, as we have repeatedly remarked, the coolies, or doers of all work that nobody else will do who can find more creditable employment. Though there appears to us little similarity between the Malay language and that of the Pacific Islanders, excepting a few words found in both, we cannot doubt of the community of their origin. Their persons, colour, hair, and eyes; their general features, manner of walking (especially the gait of the women), their habits of life, their mode of clothing, &c., plainly indicate that they are of one stock. There is, indeed, one remarkable distinction-the Malays never tatoo their bodies. March 2. There is an insect in the mountains here, a species of gryllus (cricket), which makes a loud noise with its wings at certain seasons, probably to attract its mate. Not content with the simple sound which it can pro Q 226 VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA-APPROACH TO THAT CITY. duce by a natural action, it is said to resort to an exceedingly curious acoustic contrivance to increase it; but we shall merely describe its nest, leaving its musical capabilities to better judges. In the sides of a hole which it forms in the earth, large enough to contain its body, it hollows out seven small tunnels, which, diverging from that common centre, and penetrating towards the surface of the ground, at length open above in a circle of a palm's breadth in diameter. These cylindrical apertures, being made quite smooth within, expand towards the. top, where each may be half an inch wide, like so many minute speaking trumpets. The insect then taking its stand in the central cavity, which communicates with these, and there exercising its fairy minstrelsy, the sound passes through every tube; and, whatever be the use of this peculiar structure, the tiny musician within makes hill-side and thicket to ring with the chirruping din that he emits from it. On the same mountains is found a species of tarantula, a monstrous spider, which forms a den for itself in the ground, two inches in diameter, exceedingly smooth within and wellshaped; but what most deserves admiration is a trap-door over the entrance, which it perfectly covers. This ingenious appendage, composed of different vegetable materials matted together like felt, is so hung at the upper part as to allow of being raised up when the animal goes in or out, after which it immediately falls down again into its place. The edges are curiously fringed with a kind of network, either for ornament-the whole nest displaying exquisite skill and beauty of contrivance-or to conceal the access and render it less liable to be discovered. CHAPTER XLIII. Voyage to Calcutta-Enter the River Hooghly — Approach to the City-The Rev. James Hill-Visiting various Places-Archdeacon Corrie-Female Orphan School-The Black Town-Fort William-Museum of the Asiatic Society-Town Hall-Visit to the Episcopal Clergy-The Palanquin-Ramohun Roy-Intensity of the Heat-Bishop's College-Botanical Garden-Banyan-trees-Visit to Serampore - Dr. Carey and his Colleagues-A Temple of Juggernaut-Mahommedan Mosque-Baptist College-Return to Calcutta-Bridal Pageant -Bullocks - Mr. Trawin at Kidderpore Dancing Serpents-Docility and Sagacity of Elephants -Kali. 1826. MARCH 11. Having, by invitation, visited the governor, who was not at home on our first landing, but who now received us with great kindness, we prepared to sail for Calcutta, by the Danish brig Pearl, Captain Bendichson, burthen three hundred tons. This afternoon we embarked accordingly, after taking leave of our esteemed Missionary friends, and other respectable residents who have shown us many civilities. April 15. Our log-book records nothing remarkable since we left Pinang on the 12 ult. We have, indeed, suffered a little from heat and scarcity of water, but on the whole have been graciously brought on our way through squalls and calms and favourable gales. We are now entering the river Hooghly, a branch of the Ganges. The channel is about five miles wide, the land on either side very flat, with many stunted trees of variegated foliage, among which the fan-palm rises with superior grace, though to no considerable height. The population must be very dense; innumerable native dwellings appear on every hand, principally in village groups and under clumps of trees, for the benefit of the shade. Small herds of buffaloes are seen grazing on the banks of the river, and a few land-birds have visited the rigging of our vessel. The villas of European residents now begin to appear, and add a new feature of elegance to Indian landscape. As we were sailing in view of the government botanical garden, a spectacle, truly Hindoo, for the first time caught our attention-a human carcase floating down the current, with ravenous vultures standing upon it, and tearing the flesh from the bones, which were already half stripped, the ribs on one side being completely bare and seen above the water. Other dead bodies we observed lying on the beach, all in charge of the vultures, hawks, and adjutant-cranes, who were eagerly preying upon them. Now the far-famed city of Calcutta burst upon our sight with imposing grandeur, from its vast extent and the magnificent style of its buildings, though situated upon a plain so flat, that those only along the banks of the river can be seen. On the right is a spacious dockyard, with several large ships upon the stocks in it, where, though it is the Lord's day, all hands are at work-as if the proprietor were not a Christian, and the world of business must no more stand still than the earth in its orbit on the Sabbath. A little above stands the vast and formidable fortress, Fort William, though very low, according to our notions, for such defence. From within rises the observatory, a columnlike structure of great elevation; near which appears a new church, of florid Gothic architecture, not quite finished. Further on we were shown the government-house, with its goodly dome, and many other sumptuous buildings, all of brick, but handsomely stuccoed. The harbour seemed crowded with ships, among which were two steam-vessels from England. Having come to anchor, we were glad to land, and !! hasten to the house of our friend, the Rev. James Hill, of Union Chapel, which we had some difficulty to find, amidst such a labyrinth of masonry as we had entered into. We were carried through the streets in palanquins, with four bearers to each. Well may Calcutta be called a city of palaces. Mr. Hill and his excellent wife received us with Christian affection, for His sake, whose we are, and whom we wish to serve, and for the sake of that great and good Society which we, however unworthily, represent. April 17. Few cities in the world will strike an untravelled stranger from England, on his first arrival, with more astonishment that Calcutta. Wide streets, reaching for miles ; numberless mansions of the most superb architecture, in general standing apart at short distances -all with flat roofs and parapets; the singular ARCHDEACON CORRIE-THE BLACK TOWN. physiognomy, costume, and manners of its oriential population; the pomp and variety of equipages, native and foreign, in the streets; the number, rank, and character of European residents - civil, military, and commercial; these, with the inseparable ideas of multitude and immensity, associated with everything that he sees or hears of in connexion with society and its pursuits here, will, for a time, overwhelm and bewilder him. Perhaps, however, nothing will strike him as more singular, in the midst of a populous city, than to hear, when he awakes in the morning, the cawing of innumerable rooks, and the chattering of jackdaws, with which the air resounds, like the perpetual murmur of waves "Over some wide-water'd shore." Nor, when he walks the streets, will he be less surprised to observe the tameness of these birds, hopping to and fro, and picking up what they like under the feet of passengers; while vultures and kites, with keener eyes, and from higher stations, are looking out for carrion prey, on which, when they find it, they alight at once, flap their wings, and rend it in open day on the spot where it has fallen. Above all, the beauty and majesty of the adjutant-cranes (fowls of gigantic size, perched upon palace-roofs, where they rather resemble ornamental sculptures than living birds) will seem to delude his senses into a persuasion that he has been transported into the world of dreams or enchantment, where a new order of nature exists. But here, as everywhere else, wonder is a brief and transient emotion, and all these strangenesses will soon resolve themselves into commonplaces. In fact, the impunity which birds of prey enjoy is a necessary provision for the health and comfort of human society, in a climate and a place where life and death are so frequently in contact, that, unless the perishing remains of mortality were buried out of sight as quickly as possible, existence would be intolerable, and the plague perpetual. A heavy fine, therefore, is imposed on persons who wantonly destroy these feathered scavengers and undertakers. April 18. We called upon Archdeacon Corrie, by whom, as the friend of all who love the Lord Jesus, we were most kindly welcomed. As we were approaching his house we were informed of the sudden death of the Bishop of Calcutta, the excellent and exemplary Dr. Heber, a few days ago at Trichinopoly. All classes of people here to whom his worth was known, and by whom the highest expectations of future benefit to India from his evangelical labours had been entertained, deeply lament his early removal. We afterwards visited the female orphan school, a handsome establishment, supported by government, for the benefit of orphan children of Europeans only, of whom there are at present eighty-two on the foundation. The master, the Rev. Mr. Schmidt, a faithful Lutheran minister, with his pious wife, conduct it on decidedly Christian principles, bringing up the children in the nurture and admonition of the Lord. The girls are maintained here till they are either married or eligible situations have 227 been provided for them. Ten are instructed in the Bengalee and Hindoostance languages, that they may be qualified to become agents in that "new thing in the earth," the education of native females in India. Several who have gone out are already thus beneficently employed as teachers in schools. To-day, while we have been carried about in palanquins, from one place of call to another, the air felt as though it came upon our faces from the month of a furnace; and the bearers, accustomed as they are to tropical heat, were in very ill humour, their feet being scorched by the very ground on which the sun shone; so that, when they could, they took refuge by the roadsides, where they might walk for a few paces in the shade upon the grass. In the evening we explored that part of Calcutta which is called the Black Town, being principally tenanted by natives of this country. With the exception of one stately mansion, occupied by some wealthy persons of rank, the dwellings in general are poor hovels, and, though built of bricks, are for the most part miserably out of repair. We passed many Hindoo temples; some of them handsome edifices, and one very extensive, but in utter dilapidation. Mile after mile are ranges of shops, where all kinds of wares are exposed to sale; while, in many of them, useful articles -and in others superfluous ones, but much in demand-are manufactured; such as gods, and trumpery ornaments to adorn the idol temples, and deck the persons of the worshippers, on festival occasions. Shows were exhibiting in various places, with images, puerile, monstrous, or abominable, on the outside, to attract attention; while drums were beaten, and bawling invitations given to the idle and the profligate. One fellow was haranguing crowds of strangers, all careless of a corpse, which lay in the street hard by, covered with a cloth. The body seemed to have been recently run over by one of the numerous carriages, which are driven in all directions, and without mercy, along the most public thoroughfares. On our route we passed two Fakirs, or holy beggars, to one of whom a man was presenting a flower. They were young fellows, with long hair and beards; and, though ugly enough by nature to personate any reasonable scarecrow, they had daubed their black bodies with a light-coloured clay, which gave them the appearance of having been badly whitewashed. Besides this disguise, neither of them had any covering, except a rag round the waist. They were lounging by the road-side to attract the veneration and pity of passengers. April 19. To the Rev. Mr. Crawford, a pious clergyman, and to several other respectable persons, we delivered letters of introduction. By all these we were kindly received. In the evening we rode to Fort William, on the south side of the city, which is probably one of the most impregnable artificial strongholds in the world. It is of great extent, and constructed on the most scientific principles of defence, where no natural advantages could be pressed into use the ground being very little elevated above the dead level of the adjacent country. |