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REBEL PRIESTS OF ORA SPARED-MAUBUAA, OR THE SWINE-OWNER. 45

heartened and terrified, sought refuge with the
rest in the recesses of the interior. He has
since declared that the power of Oro then for-
sook him-the evil spirit went out of him, and
never afterwards returned. Pomare's conquer-
ing bands were eager to pursue the fugitives
and complete the victory, though they disavowed
the purpose of destroying them. The king,
however, interfered, and said, in a style of ori-
ental magnificence, "the mountains are mine:
follow not the vanquished thither! The motus
(the low coral islets where the enemy had left
their wives and children) are mine: let them
alone there also. Proceed only along the open
ways. Take no lives:-take nothing but the
spoils which you find in the field or on the roads."
The idolatrous prisoners were so affected by the
king's lenity, and the forbearance of the victors
generally-having expected, as a matter of
course, to be barbarously murdered in cold blood
-that many of them immediately offered to
join Pomare's army.
These were magnani-
mously pardoned, and received into his service;
so that, on that very day, idolaters who had
fought for Oro and his priests united in render-
ing thanks to the only true God for the victory
which the Christians had obtained. Others of
the dispersed adversaries, when they saw and
heard how differently the king acted on this
great occasion from the inhuman usages of their
country, gave themselves up at discretion,
coming with their weapons in their hands, and
words of peace on their lips. They were all
made welcome. Thus ended that glorious day
for Tahiti-glorious, not for Tahiti only, but for
all the islands in the Pacific, whither the gospel
has subsequently been carried from that Zion
in the West.*

CHAPTER VII.

Visit to Bunaauia-Maubuaa, or the Swine-owner-Man punished for Swearing - Return to Matavai — Coralgroves-King of Borabora's Solicitude to have a Missionary-Eagerness of the People to obtain BooksAnecdote of Pomare-Visit of Captain Walker-Simple Substitute for Bellows-Interview with Pomare-Sail to Eimeo-Examination of Candidates for Churchfellowship-Public Fast and Prayers for the KingAnecdote of Raiatean Affection towards a MissionaryShaving Process-Singular Species of Crab-Native Generosity-Evils resulting from the use of StillsTaro-Plantation-The Hoop-Snake-A Court of Justice -First Burning of Idols,

Nov. 15. WE sailed coastwise this afternoon, to Bunaauia, to visit the Missionary station where Messrs. Darling and Bourne labour. By the way we touched, in our slight boat, upon many sunken rocks, which lie thick between the reef and the shore; but in every instance we escaped without injury.

We have been gratified with a sight of the printing-office, from which, besides portions of the Scriptures, a translation of Dr. Watt's Catechisms, and a complete edition of Tahitian Hymns, have recently been issued. We afterwards proceeded to the chapel: it occupies a piece of ground formerly desecrated by a vast marae, of which there is yet a relic undestroyed -a memorial reminding beholders of what hath passed away, and from what thraldom the children have been delivered, whose fathers Satan had bound, it may be through a series of ages, since these islands were first colonised by sinners, who, descended from Adam, "have gone in the way of Cain." The country hereabout is well cultivated, and proportionately fruitful.

A few mornings ago a woman, with an infant in her arms, called on the Missionaries here to beg a little milk. Being asked whose child it was that she carried, she answered, "mine." To a second question, as to its age, she said, "It was born last night, when the moon was yonder," pointing to that part of the heavens from which the beautiful planet had lighted her babe into the world. The pains of

clime, and under the favourable circumstances which freedom from artificial restraint in clothing, and bodily exercise, naturally produce.

On the evening of the battle the aforementioned prophet of Oro stole down from his retreat to the beach, with one attendant only. There they seized a small canoe and put off to sea; but the courage of the attendant failing he flung himself into the water, at the reef, and swam on shore. The prophet, therefore, pur-parturition are comparatively mild in this genial sued his voyage alone, through the darkness of the night, and, by almost incredible exertions, reached Eimeo in safety. On landing he went and delivered himself up to the queen, whom Pomare had left behind under the care of Mr. Nott. The Missionary was consulted as to what ought to be done with this strange and terrible being, who was known to be at once one of the most implacable of the king's enemies, and the most malignant of the opposers of Christianity. A hesitating word from Mr. Nott might have caused him to be massacred, without mercy, on the spot. "Let him live; do him no harm; give him food," said the Christian teacher; and his advice was obeyed. The humbled and astonished captive was overcome by such unexampled kindness; and, being allowed his liberty, he began to attend the school for adults; soon afterwards he made open profession of the faith of the gospel, and has thenceforward conducted himself as a sincere convert.

See the introduction to this work for further illustration of the facts here recorded.

Nov. 17. Several chiefs of this district have waited upon us with presents of fruit and hogs. Among these was one named Maubuaa, or pigowner. His office under the idolatrous system was to provide human sacrifices when the king required such from this neighbourhood. With a stone, or other weapon, he used to spring upon his selected victims, unawares, and, when slaughtered, packed the bodies in cocoa-leaf baskets, and delivered them to be hung up, according to custom, on sacred trees, round the maraes of Oro. This man has slain many for such horrid offerings. He is now a member of a Christian church, and, to all appearance, "a new creature."

Nov. 18. Being the Sabbath, public worship was devoutly attended by congregations of seven to eight hundred persons. An ignorant old man, who had made no decided profession of religion, was excluded from divine service,

46

EAGERNESS TO OBTAIN BOOKS-ANECDOTE OF POMARE.

and required to stand on the outside of the chapel during its performance. He had been guilty of profane swearing, which, in the eyes of these people, is a heinous offence. In a fit of passion he had threatened one who had provoked him, in very peculiar phraseology, namely, "that he would kill, and deliver him to be eaten by his God." This menace, in their idolatrous state, was regarded as the most dreadful that could be uttered; and the culprit, on the present occasion, was punished by the authority of the chiefs, who, though they mingle not only in the sanctuary but in general with the people, as their equals (all being under the government of the laws), yet when they please to command are still obeyed with implicit deference.

Nov. 19. In traversing the bay of Matavai we found a considerable swell breaking upon the beach, at the foot of One-Tree Hill, from a cavern whence the foam came rolling and flashing with furious precipitation. On reaching Mr. Nott's house we found there the King of Borabora, whose name is Mai. He had brought a letter from Mr. Orsmond, the Missionary on that station, expressing great joy at our arrival here, and affectionately inviting us to visit that island. On hearing that Mr. Jones had come out with us as a Missionary, the people of Borabora had held a public meeting, and resolved to request Mr. Jones to settle with them. So earnest were they to obtain their object that the king himself had been deputed as their ambassador, and had come a hundred and thirty miles hither in an open boat. By the way he had been driven from island to island by contrary winds, and at length reached Tahiti with his life in his hand, preserved to him by a merciful Providence.

printed in the Tahitian language. The word of God is made the travelling companion of these people, who go not from home a day without it. The king appeared to prize his treasure exceedingly. At breakfast he sat at table with us, and used his knife and fork with tolerable address, after the European fashion. He ate heartily, but not immoderately. The Tahitians often take a large quantity of food at once, but then they have but one principal daily meal, in the forenoon, and that consists chiefly of vegetable provision. Pomare once dining on board a ship, the captain asked him what part of the fowl he would please to have. "All of it," replied the king, to the astonishment and amusement of the foreigners, who soon, however, perceived the purpose for which his majesty chose "the lion's share;"-he had several attendants, to each of whom he sent a part.

Nov. 22. Mr. Davies, the Missionary at Papara, arrived here with intelligence that the king, with his chiefs, had landed at Atehura, from Eimeo, last evening. He gives an encouraging account of the progress of the gospel on his station. In the afternoon a brig, direct from Port Jackson, anchored in Matavai Bay. It proved to be the Dragon, Captain Walker, who brought a letter for the Missionaries here, from the Rev. Mr. Marsden, informing them that in a late trial between a Mr. E. and himself, as the friend of King Pomare, damages to the amount of £1200 had been given in favour of the latter. Captain Walker said he had lately been in Bengal, and that at a place where he had given an account, in a public assembly, of the wonderful changes which the religion of Christ had effected in these islands, a young man, a Brahmin, stepped forth, and, in a long and energetic address, declared his astonishment and delight at hearing such good news, and concluded by saying that thenceforth he himself would abandon idolatry, and embrace the

Before we left Bunaauia, this morning, we had an opportunity of witnessing how eager the natives are to obtain such books as are, from time to time, printed here. Mr. Bourne had just completed a compendious spelling-faith which had wrought such marvels here. book, with a translation of Dr. Watts's small catechism. This book they call the B A Ba. It having been announced for publication today, before six o'clock in the morning about a hundred persons crowded the house, anxious to secure the precious volume; and, being fearful that there might not be copies to supply all, each urged his claim to priority of purchase. The price was a bamboo of cocoa-nut oil. "See," cried one, "how large a bamboo mine is! let me have a book first." "But mine is much larger than his," exclaimed another; "let me have one before him." A poor man, lest he should be too late, had applied on Saturday night, but could not get his Baba then. He, however, refused to take back his bamboo of oil, and lashed it to one of the posts of the house, to hang there in readiness against the Monday. All, at length, were gratified.

Nov. 20. We had invited Mai to breakfast with us at eight o'clock. He arrived before seven, having previously attended the adultschool in the chapel. He brought in his hand a copy of the three Gospels which have been

Nov. 24. As we returned home from Mr. Wilson's, where we had dined, we observed on an open, airy plot of ground, near the sea, a Tahitian apparatus to perform the work of a pair of bellows, in blowing a fire to heat iron. This contrivance was under a fara-tree, or pandanus palm. In order to concentrate the wind to a point, and bring the blast upon the flame, several mats, made of cocoa-leaves, were placed so as to form a sort of funnel, behind which the fire was kindled. Some of these mats were fixed upon their edges, forming an acute angle, at which two others were placed on their ends, about a foot from the ground. Thus all the wind falling within this opening was made to pass through the aperture at its contracted end, and thereby brought to bear upon the fire. Though there was only a gentle breeze abroad, yet the blast here was sufficient to produce the intensity of heat required.

Nov. 26. Accompanied by Messrs. Nott and Crook we sailed to Bunaauia, in Captain Walker's boat, on a visit to Pomare. In approaching the royal presence we had to pass by

SAIL TO EIMEO-SINGULAR SPECIES OF CRAB.

a long line of soldiers, who had been stationed in advance to receive us. Several of them carried bells in their hands, which they tinkled from the time when we came in sight till we had passed them. These body-guards stood with their muskets shouldered, but did not fire them. We found the king lying upon a couch, covered with a white counterpane, and his head considerably raised by pillows. He received us very graciously, and we, in return, wished him

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every good," according to the most approved form of salutation used here. He looked better, we thought, than when we last saw him in Eimeo; but yet his person was much swollen, and, on feeling his pulse, the arm remained pitted where the pressure had been. The queen, with her son upon her knee, sat near the king, and a number of chiefs, both men and women, were in attendance, all sitting cross-legged on the floor, at the extremity of the shed in which this audience was given. A table was placed near Pomare, on which were spread various fruits and wines, of which we were invited to partake.

The king being too unwell to converse much, after sitting a little while and talking on subjects connected with our visit to his dominions, we took our leave.

47

God

their shoulders, about a furlong inland, into the royal yard, with masts, sails, and rigging all displayed; the bearers and the accompanying multitude shouting as they went, bless our teacher, Otomoni!' (Orsmond, as softened down in the delicate Pacific tongue.") A circumstance nearly similar occurred to the same Missionary at Borabora.

On our walk, in the afternoon, we were amused by observing the process of shaving here. The operator was sitting on the ground, holding between his legs the head of the patient, who lay most resolutely on his back during the infliction; and it was difficult to award the meed of praise between them-the barber for his skill and perseverance in clearing away a week's growth of harsh bushy beard, with a razor little better than an iron hoop, and without either water or soap to facilitate its progress; or the victim of his bad tool, but dexterous management, for the patience and goodnature with which he bore the torture to the last bristle of his chin.

more.

On the beach, near the king's house, we found a small but curious crab, which is common here. These creatures bury themselves in the moist sand or mud to the depth of a hand-breadth or One of the largest which we dug up was three-quarters of an inch in length, of a dark brown colour; others, however, are marked with blue spots. The peculiarity of this little animal is, that one of its fore-claws is disproportionately large, being sometimes the size of its whole body, and of a bright red tint; while the corresponding claw is of the same colour with its legs, and so small as scarcely to be perceptible without being sought out. The eyes stand at the extremity of two pro

Nov. 29. In the forenoon we embarked on board of the General Gates, and sailed for Eimeo, where we landed, in the course of five hours, in Taloo harbour. This is one of the most secure, capacious, and beautiful ports in the world: five hundred vessels might ride here in perfect safety, while wood and water might be obtained within a few yards of the anchorIn the evening we had an opportunity of witnessing with what circumspexion the Missionaries admit natives to religious privileges,jections, each half an inch in length. When by strict and scriptural examination concerning the faith that is in them.

age.

We find that the chiefs of Tahiti and Eimeo have sent messengers round the islands, to request that to-morrow may be observed as a day of fasting and prayer for the restoration of the king's health; but, if it should be otherwise ordained, then directing supplication to be made that it would please God to prepare his soul for the kingdom of heaven. Accordingly, we found all the people here busily setting their household affairs in order, that the day might be kept holy as a Sabbath; it having been also determined that, till after sunset, the inhabitants should abstain from food of all kinds.

Nov. 30. Though fast-days had been partially held by those who were Christians here, on occasion of actual or apprehended war, yet this was the first national fast that had ever been observed in the islands since the gospel was planted in them. It was, therefore, solemnised with deep and peculiar feelings of awe and devotion.

Dec. 1. The following circumstance deserves honourable record: Mr. Orsmond says, "Once, at Raiatea, on my arrival, the king, the chiefs, and great numbers of the people, ran into the water, laid hold of my little boat, and carried it, including myself and all my cargo, upon

the crab enters its hole, these flexible instruments, which can be moved in all directions, turn downwards into grooves of the under shell, where they are sheathed in perfect security. On the approach of danger, these helpless creatures burrow into the sand with surprising celerity; but the sagacious hogs as quickly grub them up with their snouts, and greedily devour the delicate morsels. The natives call this species ohitimataroa, the big-eyed crab.

In the evening, a person brought us a very fine mat for sale, and requested to have a shirt in exchange. He said that the reason why he came so late was, that he wished to appear becomingly dressed on the morrow, the Sabbath. Some friends of his, who had arrived from the Leeward Islands, being poorly and scantily clad, he had generously given them the best clothes he had, leaving himself without suitable covering for the public assembly. It is an ancient custom to give to a friend whatever he asks for, whether food or raiment, and however the owner may want it himself. To refuse a request of this kind would be deemed such a breach of hospitality as to bring upon the person the reproach of being a churl, a character held in abhorrence by these people, who, in some respects, live as if they were all of one family, and had everything in common. It was for

48

TARO PLANTING-A COURT OF JUSTICE.

merly so imperative to divide their morsel one with another that when a man killed a hog it was baked whole, and all his neighbours who chose came to partake of it; he himself having only as much as he could eat, and the entire carcase being devoured at a meal. Customs of this kind, which suited the lazy and the sensual, in their heathen state, are now fast falling, as they ought, into disuse; while Christian charity, the principle of the purest benevolence, makes them ready to communicate of their good things to those that are in need, without reckless waste or unnecessary impoverishment of themselves for worthless vagabonds, of whom, formerly, there were multitudes consuming the fruits of the soil, and the produce of industry, without cultivating the one or contributing to the other.

Dec. 3. Mr. Platt, wishing to have a piece of ground adjacent to his house planted with taro (arum esculentum), had mentioned it to the deacons, who assembled the congregation, last Saturday, to consider whether they would do the work for their minister. On the question being put the people gladly offered their services, and this morning they came to fulfil their engagement. The ground for the cultivation of this root is low and wet, and here it was covered with rank and coarse vegetation. In a few hours, however, the whole plot was cleared and planted. The many hands made light work, by an easy division of the whole into small portions. Except two or three spades, short, pointed sticks were the only tools employed to root up the grass, dig the soil, and plant the taro. The labourers were very soon ludicrously bespattered with mud, yet nothing could exceed the good-humour with which they performed their disagreeable task; many of them sat down in the mire to gather out the stones, and put in the plants. One woman only was among them, with several boys. In one quarter the king's servants were employed, in another the queen's, and several bands elsewhere; all keeping to their own departments. By noon, the whole was nearly completed, when the work-people were entertained with a baked hog and the usual vegetable fare, provided by Mr. Platt. On the occasion, sundry chiefs headed their vassals, and toiled with their own hands as hard as any of them. This is always the case when any public service is to be done, the principal men deeming it their honour to be the ablest and busiest of the multitude, who, under such encouragement as well as superintendence, vie with each other who shall do the most and the best in accomplishing the common object. The taro plants are placed something less than a yard apart; this is necessary, both to allow their luxuriant growth, and that they may be regularly supplied with water. The roots are fit for use in six months, but both the bulk and quality are much improved if permitted to remain in the ground a-year. Roasted or boiled, the taro is excellent food.

Dec. 4. We have just witnessed the novel scene of a court of justice here. Hard by the chapel, there stands a magnificent purau-tree,

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round about and under the expanded shade of which long forms for seats were fixed, enclosing a square of about twenty-five feet across. pains had been taken to clear the ground, which happened to be strewn with loose stones. The judges took their places on the benches. Most of these were secondary chiefs, the superior ones being with Pomare at Tahiti. They were handsomely robed in purau mats and cloth tibutas, with straw hats, and made a most respectable appearance. There were nearly thirty of these; among whom one, called Tapuni, having been previously appointed chairman of the tribunal, was distinguished above the rest by a bunch of black feathers, gracefully surmounted with red, in his hat. Hundreds of people seated themselves on the outside of the square. Two young men were then introduced, who sat down quietly at the foot of the tree. These were the culprits: they were charged with having stolen some bread-fruit. Silence and earnest attention prevailed. Tapuni now rose, and called upon the accused to stand up, which they immediately did. He then stated the offence for which they were arraigned, and as their guilt was clear, having been detected in the fact, he told them that they had committed rebellion, by breaking the law, outraging the authority of the king, and disgracing the character of their country. One of the young men, hereupon, frankly confessed that he had perpetrated the theft, and pursuaded his comrade to share with him the crime and the plunder. Witnesses are seldom called in such cases, offenders generally acknowledging their misdeeds, and casting themselves on the justice of the court to deal with them accordingly. This is a remarkable circumstance, and we are assured that it is so common as to constitute a trait of national character. A brief conversation followed among the judges, respecting the utua, or punishment, to be inflicted on the youths, as they were thus faahapa, or found guilty. The sentence was then delivered by the president; this was, that they should each build four fathoms of a wall, now erecting about a plot of taro ground, belonging to the king. In such cases, the condemned are allowed their own reasonable time to execute the task required, and it generally happens that their friends, by permission, lend them assistance. We have seen an aged father helping his son to perform hard labour of this kind, which must, never'theless, be finished to the satisfaction of an authorised inspector. It is remarkable, in the administration of justice here, that, when the sentence is pronounced, the criminal is gravely asked whether he himself agrees to it, and he generally replies in the affirmative. There is something very primitive and patriarchal in this simple yet solemn form of conducting trials.

A second cause now came on. The plaintiff had engaged certain persons to plant a quantity of land with tobacco, at a stipulated price. While these were at work, two fellows, not employed by the plaintiff, volunteered their assistance to the hired labourers. When the

DEPARTURE FOR THE LEEWARD ISLANDS-HUAHINE.

tobacco was ripe, these two came and took away a quantity of the crop, as a compensation for their officious services. The action was, therefore, brought against them, to recover the tobacco, or damages to the value of it. When the case had been stated, much discussion arose; but, as it could not be found that the law had made express provision for such an anomalous offence, the consideration of the subject was deferred till another time.

Mr.

Near this Missionary station, called Papetoai, the first destruction of idols took place. Henry, still resident there, was present. A chief named Pati, having fully made up his mind to the perilous experiment, which should prove whether the objects of his father's worship and his own were gods or not, publicly announced, before Pomare and a great number of the natives, that he would bring the images from the marae in the adjacent valley, and burn them, before the sun, next day. Some of the Missionaries, fearful of the consequences, advised him to consider well what he was about to do; but Mr. Henry, young, and zealous for the Lord of Hosts, clapped the heroic chief on the back, and encouraged him to lose no time in carrying his good purpose into execution. Accordingly, on the morrow, Pati brought his family idols, three in number, upon his back, to the place of execution. There throwing the lumber down upon the ground, he took an axe, hewed away the wicker-work that encased them, and split the uncouth shapes, to see what might be within, when bones of fishes and men, that had been sacrificed, were found in the cavities. The dumb logs and stocks were then cast into the flames of a large fire, and presently consumed to ashes-the people gazing with horror and astonishment on the sacrilegious act, expecting that some signal vengeance would overtake the bold assailant of the gods. The latter, however, could not help themselves; and the spectators, witnessing such total impotence, felt their faith in the superstition of their ancestors not a little shaken.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure for the Leeward Islands-Huahine-Distinguished Natives--Speeches--Death of Pomare--Grounds ou which the Effects produced by Christian Missions in these Islands have been misrepresented — Last Injunctions and Dying Scene of Pomare.

Dec. 5. TAKING leave of our friends in Eimeo, we embarked on board the General Gates, and were soon under way on our voyage to the Leeward Islands. The breeze was slight, but towards evening we came to anchor off Tituroa, eight leagues distant from Tahiti, Captain Riggs having determined to land here for the purpose of purchasing a further stock of provisions.

Dec. 6. Glad to escape from our confined berths in the ship, we rose early. A large shark being on the scout near the vessel, a hook well baited was let down, and in a few minutes the voracious animal was floundering on the deck, where he was quickly despatched, and the fins,

49

or flippers, taken off, to be preserved for the China market, where such commodities fetch a good price. Mr. Tyerman accompanied Captain Riggs in the boat, intending to land, which, however, was a matter of no small difficulty, and some peril. Tituroa is, in fact, a group of coral islets, ten in number, comprehended within one general reef, and separated from each other by interjacent lagoons. On the reef the surf breaks perpetually, with great violence; here the boat narrowly escaped being wrecked in attempting to push into calm water. At length an entrance was found, where the Captain got on shore, by sometimes wading up to the loins, and sometimes being carried on men's shoulders. To his great disappointment neither hogs nor fowls could be procured, and only a small quantity of fruit and fish. An effort to land on a second island proved ineffectual.

This group of motus (as they are called) is about twenty miles in circuit. They are low, flat spots, beautifully covered with cocoa-nut, vii-apple (spondias dulcis), and other trees; but the bread-fruit is not found growing here, nor, indeed, on any of the coral islands to which the salt water has access. On the contrary, the cocoa frequently stands within the margin of the sea, and shoots up in stately luxuriance, with its shadow perpetually floating upon the brine. There are no mountain-plantains nor bananas here. The inhabitants of these comparative solitudes are few and poor; and, though they have acknowledged Christianity, are yet less instructed in it than those of the more fertile and favoured adjacencies.

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Dec. 7. Pursuing our course, about noon the island of Huahine hove in sight, at the distance of twenty-five miles over the lee-bow. At first the appearance was conical, blue, and dimly discernible; but, as we approached, the outline broke into distinct hills, and in the glow of sunset many sharp peaks were seen crowding through the evening sky.

Dec. 8. At day-break we neared Huahine. The island, which is irregularly oval, much resembles Eimeo in its aspect to the eye, though the eminences are neither so high nor so peaked as those of the latter, and are wooded even to the summits; their flanks, in some places rocky and steep, are hollowed into narrow fissures or deep ravines. Numerous valleys, descending from the interior, open towards the beach. Many small islands, studding the face of the sea on all sides, add a variety of graceful objects, whether contemplated from the deck or from the shore. One of very peculiar form, standing apart, might have been taken for a Chinese temple built upon the waves, when seen from the point where we first descried its tapering height against the horizon. It was covered with cocoa-nut and other trees. Soon afterwards, the Missionary settlement, at the head of the bay, saluted our view, and was most welcome to our hearts. It has an imposing appearance, and reminded us more of a large town than any place we had lately seen; many of the houses being of considerable size, all

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