ing surface of country, remarkably well cultivated, and dotted over with white-washed cottages and houses, most of them owned by the Duke of Beaufort. We were here beset by a great number of beggars, attracted, and in fact created, by the alms of travellers. The hopes of getting their bread that way has prevented honest exertions, and they have become wretchedly poor by pretending to be So. This is more or less the case wherever there is any sight to attract travellers. Wales and the Wye are visited by all tourists; we are precisely in the track, and meet them at all the inns,-stalking round every ruin of castle or abbey, and climbing every high rock for a prospect; each with his Gilpin or his Cambrian Guide in his hand, and each, no doubt, writing a journal. This is rather ridiculous and discouraging. The exterior of Tintern Abbey disappointed us; but the coup-d'œil of the interior is wonderful. Suppose Westminster Abbey, with the roof offthe pavement transformed into a short green turf, over which clusters of pillars, like Gothic skeletons, rear their slender forms; dark ivy in matted locks hanging from their high bushy heads. The walls, and part of the arches over the aisles, are still entire; even the delicate tracery-work of the large windows; and, as we were told, the painted glass adhered to them till within a few years. Upon the whole, the beauties of the Wye itself fall rather short of the descriptions of Gilpin and other tra vellers. Wishing to see the last number of Cobbett, we sent the servant of the inn to procure it; he is just returned, and informs us, that nobody in Chepstow knows any thing of Cobbett's Political Register. I do not know whether to wish the good people of Chepstow joy of it, or to pity them; as the Political Register, together with some treason, contains certainly a good deal of information and entertain ment. ན July 14. We are at Cowbridge, Glamorganshire, having travelled forty miles to-day, through Newport, Cardiff, and Landaff;--the country just uneven enough to afford extensive views over an immense extent of cultivation, lost in the blue distance; nothing wild, or, properly speaking, picturesque, but all highly beautiful, and every appearance of prosperity. Wales seems more inhabited, at least more strewed over with habitations of all sorts, scattered or in villages, than any part of England we have seen, and which are rendered more conspicuous by white-washing of the most resplendent whiteness. Every cottage too has its roses, and honeysuckles, and vines, and neat walk to the door; and this attention bestowed on objects of mere pleasurable comforts, is the surest indication of minds at ease, and not under the immediate pressure of poverty. It is impossible indeed to look round without the conviction, that this country is, upon the whole, one of the happiest, if not the happiest in the world. The same class in America has certainly more advantages, and might have more enjoyments; but superior industry and sobriety more than compensate for the difficulties they have to struggle with here. The women we see are certainly better looking than nearer London. The language of the inhabitants is quite unintelligible to us; at the inns, however, all is transacted in English. Having gone to see some ruins while the horses were changing at Cardiff, we found the post-boy had driven away; and on inquiring the reason on his return, he said he was D d VOL. I. 2 afraid the horses would catch cold standing;this is delightful for the middle of July, when the people of New York are dying with heat. July 16.-Tenby. Ninety-one miles in two days, through a hilly but rich country, affording continually vast views of cultivation, a surface chequered with fields and hedges, and studded over with white dots, the outside of cottages, roofs and chimneys, and even the very stones on the road near the houses being fresh white-washed. There is no particular beauty in all this on near inspection, but distance ennobles and harmonizes all; and many of the views, without woods, without rocks, or high mountains, and without water, were still highly beautiful, and almost sublime. Very few commons or waste grounds were to be seen; those few had sheep and a vast number of young asses grazing about; these, with their long ears and small bodies, and their vivacity, gave the idea of rabbits in a warren, And they would toss their heels in gamesome play, Near Swansea we visited the copper and iron works. They were just opening a opening a smelting furnace; the fused copper, in a little stream of liquid fire, flowed along a channel towards a cistern full of water; we saw it approach with terror, expecting an explosion; instead of which the two liquids met very amicably, the water only simmering a little. The workmen looked very sickly: we found, on inquiry, their salary was but little higher than that of common labourers. It is remarkable, that, much as men are attached to life, there is no consideration less attended to in the choice of a profession than salubrity. WALES RAIL-WAYS AND WAGGONS. 211 We came in sight of the sea several times today. It blew fresh on shore, but there was not much surf, from being, I suppose, a confined sea. Single trees, oaks particularly, are in general very much bent, almost horizontally, from the sea; that is to say, the stem is, while the boughs and leaves turn towards it. Large woods, covering steep ascents facing the sea, we observed growing straight and thriving; the trees protect each other, or the height behind obliges the sea air to pass over their heads. We crossed several iron rail-ways, leading from founderies and coal-mines in the country to the sea. Four low cast-iron wheels ran in an iron groove lying along the road. It is now, however, the general custom to place the groove on the circumference of the wheel, running upon the rail, a mere ledge of iron, upon which no stone or other impediment can lodge. Five small waggons, and sometimes six, fastened together, each carrying two tons of coal, are drawn by three horses, that is, four tons to each horse, besides the weight of the waggon,-about four or five times as much as they could draw on a common road; on an ascent the waggons are separated. The rocks of Tenby are worn by the sea into the most fantastic shapes, and pierced through and through, in several places, like gateways; and at low water, carriages drive close to the sea upon a firm beach. The town is built along the summit of the cliff, and in the finest situation imaginable, but the houses turn their backs and blind sides to this glorious prospect, having windows only to look at each other, across a narrow dirty street. The use these Hottentots make of the beetling brow of the cliff, the very place for poetical raptures and philosophical contemplation, is too vile to be nam ed. The bathers lodge in a lower situation, less beautiful, but cleaner. July 19-Cardigan. We left Tenby yesterday, with horses so tired, that all we could obtain from them was to draw the carriage empty, and so slowly, that we arrived at Pembroke before them, a walk of ten miles. This morning we have crossed Milford Haven, a narrow and deep bay or arm of the sea, forming an excellent harbour, sheltered on all sides, but not used at all. Such a one on the coast of France, where they are so scarce, would not be thus neglected. The surrounding country is solitary, peaceful, and agreeable. Our first stage was Haverford West, 11 miles; then 30 miles on one stretch of hilly country, for which we were obliged to take four horses. July 20-Aberystwith. Another stage of 40 miles with four horses, in ten hours. There is so little travelling in this remote part of the island, that the post-horses are commonly employed in husbandry. The country is rough and hilly, but presents the same appearance of prosperity and good cultivation, though less fertile; granite and slate having succeeded to limestone. The country people give us a friendly nod as we drive along. The women certainly are uncommonly good-looking. Welsh for two shillings is dua sols, as we hear it pronounced, which sounds very like French. The sides of the road are made very gay, by the fine stalks of the purple fox-glove growing among very luxuriant fern, and appearing as the same plant. A beautiful low purple heath, and thyme, also with purple flowers, cover the tops of the hills. We have been nearly all day in view of the sea, on our left hand, and fancied we could see Ireland: the clouds were exactly |