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24th December, 1809. We found ourselves, on waking this morning early, anchored in the harbour of Falmouth, where we had arrived in the night, after a speedy and prosperous passage of twenty-one days from America, without a single storm to describe, or any extraordinary occurrence. This harbour is a small basin, surrounded with gentle hills. Looking round, we saw green fields, with cattle grazing, a grove of trees, some pines, and many green tufts like laurels. The town of Falmouth, little, old, and ugly, was seen on our left, and another assemblage of little old houses on our right, (Flushing); Pendennis Castle behind us, on a mound near the entrance of the harbour. The air was calm and mild, the sky of a very pale blue,—a light mist hung over the landscape, and the general impression was peaceful and agreeable: on the surface of the water twenty or thirty ships, mostly packets, and two or three Dutch vessels with licenses,

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a strange sort of trade! The custom-house officers mustered in crowds about the ship, ransacking every corner-Barrels and bags, boxes and hampers of half-consumed provisions, empty bottles and full ones, musty straw and papers, and all that the dampness of a ship, pitch and tallow, and the human species confined in a narrow space, can produce of offensive sights and smells, were exposed to open day. These custom-house officers seized a certain surplus of stores beyond what a ship is allowed to bring in port, whether the voyage has been long or short. I overheard the head seizer asking the Captain whether he preferred having his wine or his spirits seized; and the Captain seemed to take the proposal in very good part, and told me afterwards the man was very friendly to him. In this general confusion no breakfast could be expected; and permission being procured for the passengers to land, with their baggage, every one was eager to make his escape. I went on shore to reconnoitre, and to secure comfortable quarters, and brought back hot rolls,-the olivebranch to the ark.

The houses, in a confused heap, crowd on the water; the tide washes their foundation; a black wall, built of rough stones, that stand on end, to facilitate the draining of the water, and steps, overgrown with sea-weeds, to ascend to the doors. Through one of these odd entrances I introduced my companions to the hotel, a strange, old, low building, extremely neat inside, with a tempting larder full in view, displaying, on shelves of tiles, fish of all sorts, fat fowls, &c. Well-dressed servants, civil and attentive, waited our commands. We were put in possession of a sitting-room and two bed-rooms. Our windows overlooked two or three

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diminutive streets without foot-paths,-too narrow, indeed, for any,—all up and down, and crooked. It was Sunday. The men were, many of them, in volunteer uniforms, and looked well enough for citizen-soldiers; the women highly dressed, or rather highly undressed, in extremely thin draperies, moved about with an elastic gait on the light fantastic patten, making a universal clatter of iron on the pavement. Ruddy countenances, and embonpoint, were very general and striking. C.'s young astonishment was awakened at the sight of a sedan-chair, vibrating along on two poles. A monstrous carriage turned the corner of a street, overladen with passengers, a dozen, at least, on the top, before, and behind; all this resting on four high slender wheels, drawn along full speed on a rough unequal pavement. We observed some men, in old-fashioned cocked-hats with silver lace, compelling a Quaker to shut his shop; which was opened again the moment they were gone. An elegant post-chaise and four stopped at the door. A young man, fat and fair, with the face and figure of a baby, six feet high, alighted from it; it was the Marquis of S. the first man of quality we have seen in England. He goes, we are told, to lounge away his ennui and his idleness beyond seas,-a premature attack of the maladie du pays. The English maladie du pays is of a is of a peculiar character; it is not merely the result of extreme regrets when they have left their country, and of that perpetual longing to return, felt by other people, but an equal longing to leave it, and a sense of weariness and satiety all the time they are at home.

Dinner announced, suspended our observations; it was served in our own apartments. We had three small dishes, dressed very inartificially (an

English cook only boils and roasts), otherwise very good. The table-linen and glass, and servants, remarkably neat, and in good order. At the dessert apples no bigger than walnuts, and without taste, which are said to be the best the country produces.

December 25.-I have been this morning to the custom-house, with the other passengers, to get our passports. They obtained theirs without difficulty, but I must write to London for mine. Twenty-two years of absence have not expiated the original sin of being born in France: but I have no right to complain,-an Englishman would be worse off in France.

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We have on our arrival a double allowance of news; those which were coming over to us when we left America, and what has occurred since; an accumulation of about three months. The first thing we have learnt was an Imperial repudiation and an expected Imperial marriage, which seems to be a great stroke of policy. Political news are no longer what they were formerly; they come home to every man's concerns, and state affairs are become family affairs.

December 26.-I have been introduced to several respectable citizens of Falmouth; they all live in very small, old habitations, the apartments of which resemble the cabins of vessels. A new house is a phenomenon. The manners of this remote corner of England have retained a sort of primitive simplicity. I have seen nothing here of the luxury and pride which I expected to find every where in this warlike and commercial country. There is much despondency about Spain, and but one voice against the Walcheren expedition and against the ministers, who are not expected to

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